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For me it would't be worth it even if you doubled the range to 20 miles. I would get an escape PHEV (39mile range) or an EV if you don't take frequent long trips. I did buy a Mach-E standard range EV last year after I sold my c-max.

My 2014 Energi runs great but the battery has about half its life left. Typically 8-10 miles at best. I use forscan and all the cells are balanced and no errors so I don't think there are any issues. I spoke with a dealership and a "rebuilt" battery is the only option from them and they want $15k for one. Yikes. As I understand it, these batteries have 84 Panasonic 3.7 Volt NMC cells with somewhere between 24-26 AH each. The newer 2019/2020 Fusion cells I understand are 30AH. I'm tempted to try to source 84 new cells but hoping that I can get 40-50 AH each with the same dimensions as the stock cells. My question is, if I successfully replace all 84 cells with new ones that are say 40 AH, will the BMS be ok with that? And I presume these cells have to be 3.7 NMC with the same demensions. There's no way as far as I know to replace the current cells with LiFePO cells as they run a different voltage and such. The goal is to swap 84 3.7 volt cells for 84 3.7 volt cells with hopefully higher AH so it can be sort of plug and play. Guidance, thoughts, considerations? Anyone know if a reputable supplier? I'm looking and the only options seem to be Aliexpress or Alibaba and thus I fear it may be impossible to find good safe accurate cells.

I have the exact same problem with my 2014 cmax. I had my battery replaced because I was told it was bad. I had notice the tail light in passing before I took it in to be checked. I assumed it was just slow in going off. After the battery replacement it's still doing it. But now I am also having trouble with my lighter charger not working and not being able to connect with the bluetooth. Just a bunch of weird stuff. I don't know where to start troubleshooting. I am now also getting a warning light for a powertrain or high-voltage charge system fault after I jump it. But then it goes away.

I Have a new Blue Ox Base plate BX2639 I need to sell. 250.00. It comes with all the hardware and instructions needed to install it to the your 2013-18 Ford C-Max Includes Hybrid and Energi. I can ship it (contact me for a quote) or if you are in no big hurry, I may be able to meet up somewhere as I drive across the country a couple times a year. I am in Chicago area.

Remember, the guess-o-meter is based on your recent driving. If you have a lead foot, it might think that you only have eight miles of juice. Follow cr08's instructions, that will get to what you really have available.

I'd first start by getting the actual capacity of the battery currently. The estimated range is practically useless as a health indicator as a lot of factors can impact the numbers. Here's the test you need to do: 1) Fully charge the car 2) Drive it in EV mode ONLY (avoid things that can cause the ICE to start, ie: No highway driving, no cabin heat, as few active accessories as possible) 3) Drive until the plug-in charge is depleted. 4) Once the plug-in charge is used and it falls back to hybrid operation, safely stop somewhere and shut off the car. The trip summary on the left screen will list the kwh used. This is the number you need. 5.5kwh is the brand new plug-in capacity from the factory. Anything above 4.0 is still in good territory.

It's normal for there to be more noise when the engine turns on vs running on the battery only. You can post a recording here of the noise if you think it's a problem.

8 miles seems a little low for 34k miles on the car. Maybe there is a problem with the battery pack. I would get it diagnosed before getting it replaced. Or just drive it as is, a new battery would not add a lot of value.

Hello, thanks for the approval. I got my first hybrid a couple of months ago, a 2014 C-Max SEL, after I had to give up my beloved Fiesta because Mrs. H won't drive a stick and Mom H. had trouble getting in and out of it. Love the C-Max, it's a funky little contraption and great for the commute. Now officially christened the "Possum Hybrid" in memory of Red Green's Possum Van. Wonder how he would have built a hybrid?

I have a ridiculously low mileage 2013 CMax Energi (34,000 miles). Really. I am the original owner, purchased the car new in December 2013. Love it. I live in an excellent climate for this car, never freezes here, temps over 75° for just a few days a year. The battery is now just charging to 8 miles. Is it time to replace the batteries? I am 77 years old, would like this to keep this as my toes-up car and not buy a new one.

nogoodbum - i believe the air intake for the HVB comes from the passenger side rear wheel well. so, if very hot outside, that could be a problem for cooling. we have a 2016 energi. i was curious about the recharge on hills after reading some conflicting and confusing information on the internet. i took the car skiing, and on the way back down the hill it managed to charge the HVB to nearly a 1/4 charge. i did not need to pull over or turn anything on or off, i just went down hill gently using the brake. (i didn't know about the hill mode then). we plan on driving half way across canada this summer. some of those mountains are really long climbs/descents. i'm interested to see how full the HVB can get. in any respect, i was pleasantly surprised to see that the HVB does indeed charge up on hills. cr08 - i'm curious to know how the battery gets stressed by being charged/discharged on the highway - do you mean heat, or something else? i was hoping to drive on the highway in EV auto mode, trying to keep it in that sweet spot of a bit of gas, a bit of electric power at the same time. i'd at least like to get some cruising along for free after we come down a large mountian.

before i dont have problem when press on gas paddle , run so smooth and accelerate so fast no hear any sound , (i believe it run on electric ) now when i press on ga paddle , make a lot of sound , ev mode switch to engine mode, gas MPG dropped to 45 to 40.1 car still running ok, but make alot of sound on engine mode, when it back to electric mode no sound, when back to engie mode hear loud noise., Did anyone have this kind of problem? really appreciate any info

From my research the remote start fob is also a different frequency. 433 MHZ for the non remote start model and 315 MHZ for the remote start key. I have used Forscan and enabled the remote start in the IC but have not updated the antenna with the remote start model. I was a senior master Ford tech for 26 years and in theory it should be able to be done with software but I haven't made it there yet.

Thanks for posting this, a great start for some of the stuff I'd like to do. Had a 2015 Hybrid for the last year and am upgrading to a 2017 Energi. Adaptive Cruise is the only thing I wish it had.

Just bought a 2017 Energi! Have owned a 2015 Hybrid for the last year and a half and my only complaint was that I couldn't plug the thing in. 😄

I put some 19" land rover rims

Ford did a very poor job of explaining the different modes of the HVB programming via the owner's manual for average drivers. If anyone has figured it completely please post. One thing to keep in mind as you travel. the HVB performs best & last longest at the same temps as humans do [60-80 F] I you travel to an area of the country with high temps & low humidity, you may be comfortable at 85F+ & a light breeze but your HVB won't be. As I understand it, most of the cooling air for the HVB comes from inside the car cabin to keep cool. May want to keep the AC on in spite of what little gas you may save with it off.

Is your C Max a plug in hybrid? Could you forward me a copy of the email?

That detail furthers my suspicion that Ford shot themselves in the ass by omitting the transmission fluid circulation pump on the otherwise-identical Hybrid transmission. I wonder if hyper-milers with the longest periods of battery-only use have seen the most failures?

Additionally, slowing down from highways speeds can generate a few percent of charge. My son went to college in Vermont, and it was really fun to climb the hills with gas, then charge the battery rolling downhill. You can get out of Hybrid mode this way: charge it going downhill, park it, turn it off, and when you turn it back on, it might have enough charge to go into EV Later mode, from which you can recharge as you go. I generally arrived with a fully-charged battery, even after driving in EV mode on the flats. "Recharge as you go": watch the battery percent in the Settings screen, remember what it was when you last hit EV Later. If it's higher than that, cycle the mode button three times to reset the target charge level.

I'll note that I'm >10 years in (only about 100k miles though) and my battery still seems to be doing fine (HEV_BAT_VAR_V, max variation in voltage between batteries, reads 0.01V, the minimum non-zero possible). I don't know the statistics, but I haven't heard about any abnormally frequent problems with the high-voltage battery pack.

On long trips with lots of downhills, try pressing the downhill regen button on the shift lever; that will help regen charging of the HVB. Able to significantly recharge m wife's energi HVB in some downhill parts of the Shenandoah mountains. Greg

Also in case you haven't caught the reply I made in your other thread, you really should avoid using EV mode (Auto with EV charge available or EV Now) on the highway as it really stresses the battery. If you have charge available, switch to EV Later. If the plug-in charge is depleted, EV Auto (it won't let you switch out of it in this case) will operate in the 'safer' hybrid operation. Other than that, the other comments here are correct. The battery still has some level of charge internally like 10-15% or thereabouts for that fallback hybrid operation that it constantly cycles up and down as you drive.

May be able to charge overnight at motel otherwise no worries.

Not to worry. The car will operate in normal hybrid mode. Cheers