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Installing The Torklift Central Hitch


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  • 4 months later...

I've been able to bend the tab, but it's not enough.  Basically, it's like a fat u shape.  Any tips/hints on how to squeeze the two sides together?  I don't have a dremel, otherwise I think I would have gone that route by now.   

 

Hacksaw, sabre saw, reciprocating saw, big file, or some combination of those?

 

Or the brute force solution:  Grinder !!

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Installed one last weekend. The trick is to start the bend with pliers, so it bends at the base of the tab. You don't bend far this way, just enough that when you take a hammer to it, you can get the whole tab to bend back. It lost paint, but not primer. Hoping for minimal rust...

 

Looking at pic #5 in post #1, his problem is the bend started too high. Start it with pliers and bend at the base; just 10-15 degrees is all you need to give the hammer a weak point to exploit.

 

I have ramps, but only used them so I could use a creeper. I'm also curious how one might use phone books or a jack to position the hitch, as I had to start off-center, angle it up then shift it toward center while lifting to clear the center hanger. Good upper body workout...

 

And make sure the drivers' side threads are clear before you try to hold the hitch in position with one hand while threading a screw into clogged threads with the other!

 

Have fun,

Frank

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  • 3 weeks later...

FedEx delivered my torklift econo hitch today. I got one with the 2" receiver. I'll be installing it tomorrow. I have a swing away bike rack on the way to. Hope I get it for Memorial weekend. Be nice to go for a bike ride on a rails to trails. Guess I can always drive my truck.

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  • 10 months later...

Is there a towing capacity for these vehicles.My old vw said 1000 lbs.Can this hitch be used to tow?

Ford says its zero -- as in not approved for towing. I would not hesitate to tow a small utility trailer carrying a 100-200# load, but that's just me. The hitch is certainly sturdy enough. Edited by ArizonaEnergi
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  • 1 year later...

Hello everyone.

I just leased a 2016 C-Max Hybrid SEL. It has parking sensors in the rear bumper. I was thinking that if I install a hitch-mounted bike rack (kuat nv), the rack will interfere with the sensors when I try to reverse into my driveway. What I mean is that they sensor in the middle will always detect an object (the rack) very close, rendering the entire system useless when the rack is installed.

 

Can anyone opine on this though being correct?  Did any of your run into this problem? 

 

 

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Hello everyone.

I just leased a 2016 C-Max Hybrid SEL. It has parking sensors in the rear bumper. I was thinking that if I install a hitch-mounted bike rack (kuat nv), the rack will interfere with the sensors when I try to reverse into my driveway. What I mean is that they sensor in the middle will always detect an object (the rack) very close, rendering the entire system useless when the rack is installed.

 

Can anyone opine on this though being correct?  Did any of your run into this problem? 

Every time we take our bikes somewhere!  You just use the control on the steering wheel to shut off the alarm for that trip.  No big deal other than having to do it every time.

Edited by ArizonaEnergi
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Will a hitch interfere with the sensor that opens the lift gate? 

The Torklift doesn't - there are multiple sensors.  And thus rhe foam padding on the vertical arm of my bike rack!  Hint: Never install the hitch or load bikes with the key in your pocket!

Edited by ArizonaEnergi
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The Torklift doesn't - there are multiple sensors.  And thus rhe foam padding on the vertical arm of my bike rack!  Hint: Never install the hitch or load bikes with the key in your pocket!

Thanks for the info.  I just bought a Curt hitch from one of the forum members that turned his lease car in, and I'm worried the hitch will prevent the auto open.  Anyone here install the Curt hitch?

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To be clear, the hitch must cover the sensor in order to be a trailer hitch. "Kick" operation is much harder to activate. You have to find the residual sensor window. In my case, I kick the hitch right where the safety lines connect. I can't see how you'd activate it loading a bike on a rack, but I'm aware that Murphy was an optimist.

 

Have fun,

Frank

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Here's my post on the Energi forum of testing the kick zones and link to the Ford diagram of sensor locations.  http://fordcmaxenergiforum.com/topic/3072-no-liftgate-sensor-after-torklift-installation/?p=23938

 

The Torklift hitch doesn't cover the sensor.

 

I believe I triggered the door when installing the hitch pin and/or struggling to get a bike loaded.

 

post-629-0-42818000-1461341162_thumb.png

Edited by ArizonaEnergi
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How low can the stop point on the door be programmed?  Can you lower the door to the point that it doesn't hit the rack, then re-program that as the stop point, so if it does open, it's just a bit? 

 

It might be annoying to have the door open just a little when you are taking the rack on and off regularly, but it might work well to reset it if the rack was staying on for a while, like if you are taking the bikes on vacation with you.

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How low can the stop point on the door be programmed?  Can you lower the door to the point that it doesn't hit the rack, then re-program that as the stop point, so if it does open, it's just a bit? 

 

It might be annoying to have the door open just a little when you are taking the rack on and off regularly, but it might work well to reset it if the rack was staying on for a while, like if you are taking the bikes on vacation with you.

 

I don't know how low it can be programmed but it's really not a big problem to avoid the kick zones when using the rack.  I just padded the vertical bar and if it accidentally opens it just hits the pad and stops with no damage.

 

This was the kick zone I measured.  Don't recall if the center still worked but will test today as I'm loading the bikes on.

 

post-629-0-21696300-1461344713_thumb.png

Edited by ArizonaEnergi
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  • 1 month later...

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