To all who want to know WHY?
The other cars in my driveway are all 10 or more years old. Some of them are really oxidized.
Yup, that's important information. So, I'll now highly recommend the variable speed drill, circular foam pads (from auto parts store or similar) and the paint care system products of your choice (meguiars is easily sourced). The foam pads and a rubbing compound will cut thru the worst things (bird stains, etc) but keep the speeds down. Polish coat (or two if really bad) and finally a couple of light wax coats. Orbital hand polisher for the final wax/buff out.
If the paints main problem is just a lack of care and oxidation/stains are not too bad, clay barring the surface does wonders before polishing/waxing (no rubbing compound, that's for the bad stuff).
As always, the surface needs to be clean, clean, clean before starting. If you have a lot of black trim next to the paint surfaces, murphys law guarantees you'll get wax all over it (especially with power tools) which is very hard to remove especially if the trim is porous. I recommend taping over it with blue painters tape. 3M makes a wax/grease remover that works great too but getting down into the pores is a PITA. Taping is easier. BTDT.
You can also work your way backwards on a small section to see if it really needs all 3 major steps (rubbing, polishing, waxing). So, clean and wax a small section (say the top of one fender) and see if it meets with your approval. If not, try polishing and waxing. If that still doesn't do it, you know you'll have to rub, polish, wax the whole car. The red Nissan Cube above only needed scratch remover and waxing. Scratch remover is a sometimes mini-fourth step between polishing and waxing; especially for darker paints. The black protege, which was in poor shape, need all four steps.
Edited by C-MAXER, 06 April 2013 - 02:26 PM.