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Installing a Power Magic Pro


kc1174
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Hey, I found that the whole metal bar just behind the plastic trim under the glovebox is an earth. There are a couple of bolts on either end, so used the one on the right.

 

Just finished installing the power magic thing and everything seems to be working ok. Ended up using the 5A 81 power sun shade (again SE and no panoramic roof), as 62 didn't allow me to get the add-a-fuse in. Basically the box runs on accessory power when the car is running, and drops down to live when the car's off. Tested the live by leaving my cell in the car, plugged in and having an S4, there's a light to show it's still charging or full. Left it in for an hour with a low battery and it was still charging. Got back in, the Scangauge gave me 12.5V, and the power magic went into accessory when I started her up. The power magic is now safely tucked away in the glovebox. Am on my cell at the moment, but I took some photos and will post them up later. The whole thing was actually pretty simple to throw together once I had the fuses figured out (and simple to unhook and hide should I ever need warranty work...)

I have a CMAX Energi with no panoramic roof as well. I followed your write-up on which fuses to use. I was curious though whether on your green light stays on regardless of whether the switch is turned to on or off? Also, was curious whether it would be a problem in the difference with it being an energi vs a hybrid in the installation.

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Followed kc1174 instructions with the exception that SEL models have different voltage presence at these fuse taps.

I used Hemostats to remove and insert the fuses, very difficult location to work in. Confirmed Powermagic Pro shutdown when voltage dips below my programmed 12v level.

 

Powermagic Pro and Valentine1 Hardware

 
There is a deadspot between the glovebox and the trim panel I used to route Powermagic Pro control box wiring.

IMG 1264

 
Connect the Valentine1 and Powermagic Pro ground wires by ring lug to the chasis ground.

IMG 1266

Edited by darrelld
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I have a CMAX Energi with no panoramic roof as well. I followed your write-up on which fuses to use. I was curious though whether on your green light stays on regardless of whether the switch is turned to on or off? Also, was curious whether it would be a problem in the difference with it being an energi vs a hybrid in the installation.

Hey - sorry seems my forum emails have been going to junk mail.. on the green light being on, that's fine. The power magic (when the switch is set to on) cuts out when the timer or the 12V battery drops below the thresholds set on the jumpers. When set to off, it cuts out when the 12V battery drops below the threshold set on the jumpers.

On the fuses for the Energi, I'm assuming it's the same as either mine (SE) or in the post above me (SEL). Best advice is to wire it up via the SEL fuses, plug your cell into the lighter socket, lock up the car and come back say 20 mins later and see if the phone is still charging. If it is - you hit the correct live fuse and all is well.

 

The trick to this was really to try various options via the fuse guide in the manual until one works :)

Edited by kc1174
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Followed kc1174 instructions with the exception that SEL models have different voltage presence at these fuse taps.

I used Hemostats to remove and insert the fuses, very difficult location to work in. Confirmed Powermagic Pro shutdown when voltage dips below my programmed 12v level.

 

 

 

There is a deadspot between the glovebox and the trim panel I used to route Powermagic Pro control box wiring.

 

 

Connect the Valentine1 and Powermagic Pro ground wires by ring lug to the chasis ground.

Cool! Which fuses #'s did you use for ACC and live? I ordered the 2013 Ford service/wiring DVD off eBay to get a better idea of the electronics on the Max.

 

Btw - about an hour ago, someone sideswiped me. No damage thank god - just hit the offside mirror which flipped in, but got the usual "you were speeding" and "your lights weren't on" and "I had my turn signal on" bs - then showed him the dashcam, so he shut up.. Was doing 19mph, my lights were on, he didn't indicate, and he pulled over a solid white line. It paid for itself right there.

Some profanity was used, so don't think I'll be posting it up anytime soon.

You think TX drivers are bad (and they are - saw your YouTube videos) but FL is close!

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Cool! Which fuses #'s did you use for ACC and live? I ordered the 2013 Ford service/wiring DVD off eBay to get a better idea of the electronics on the Max.

 

Btw - about an hour ago, someone sideswiped me. No damage thank god - just hit the offside mirror which flipped in, but got the usual "you were speeding" and "your lights weren't on" and "I had my turn signal on" bs - then showed him the dashcam, so he shut up.. Was doing 19mph, my lights were on, he didn't indicate, and he pulled over a solid white line. It paid for itself right there.

Some profanity was used, so don't think I'll be posting it up anytime soon.

You think TX drivers are bad (and they are - saw your YouTube videos) but FL is close!

I used F73 for battery and F86 for keyed power.

My step daughter is from Tampa and graduated from USF so I have heard the stories about Florida. My motivation for the dash cam was created after being a target of insurance fraud that ended with the case getting dropped just before jury selection. A video would have ended that case immediately.

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  • 3 years later...

I used F73 for battery and F86 for keyed power.

My step daughter is from Tampa and graduated from USF so I have heard the stories about Florida. My motivation for the dash cam was created after being a target of insurance fraud that ended with the case getting dropped just before jury selection. A video would have ended that case immediately.

 

After trying many, many fuses, F86 is the one that worked for me (keyed power) in my 2013 Hybrid SEL. Thanks Darrelld!

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  • 4 years later...

Usually don't bump these ancient threads, but this seems to be the biggest dashcam wiring thread on this forum so far and just adding a small bit of extra info that really doesn't require its own thread YET.

 

So I did do some research a while back mainly using the service manuals and wiring diagrams to find suitable fuses to use for both 'always hot' and ignition switched power. I also aimed for using fuses that were 'Not used' and didn't have other systems on them to avoid any potential interference down the line. Here's what I found:

 

F68 - 15A - Hot (fuse tap towards passenger side)
F87 - Ign Switched (fuse tap towards driver side)
F58 - 5A - Int Light Relay
F63 - 10A - Int Light Relay

 

Caveat: These are theoretical. I have not been able to confirm them yet, but the service manual bears out their viability. The big question mark I have is the orientation of the fuse taps, but those are easy to figure out and would be a 50/50 guess. ?

 

The later two being on an interior light relay means they will become active earlier such as when unlocking the vehicle or opening a door and the vehicle starts waking up, dash comes on, etc.. The F87 ignition switched relay should only come on with the ignition. This'll be personal preference which you want to use, ie: If you'd like to have the dashcam 'wake up' earlier before you drive off for example.

I have a Viofo A129 Duo kit myself with just the front camera installed and using the 12v adapter instead of hardwiring. Once the weather warms up here and I have some free time, I intend to finally do the full install including adding the rear camera (and finding a good spot in the small rear window to install it), running the wire through the headliner, and getting the hardwire kit set up. I intend to try and get it all documented as well as I can to post here in this forum.

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