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Recreational Towing (behind a motor home)


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206 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   zhackwyatt

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 04:02 PM

I just found something on page 57, but when I open our fob (type 1) there is no key blade in there!  Checked both fobs and no key blades. 

Well that's not good.  Since you have keyless entry if the car battery dies there is no way to get into the car w/o those key blades.









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#22 OFFLINE   Laurel

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 05:04 PM

Not good at all Zhack!  I am starting a new thread about this issue.



#23 OFFLINE   jmckinley

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 09:51 PM

Just an update on towing this thing.  Two weeks traveling now, 3 hours seems to be about the limit before the battery gives up. Today, I towed about 2.5 hours and it started fine at a rest stop.  Ran the engine a bit to stir up tranny lube and recharge battery.  Later, after 1.5 more hours driving, it was dead.

 

Something strange going on here, no doubt.

 

Re previous poster's question, I haven't talked to Lord Motor Company re what fuses to pull.  Probably a waste of time trying to track someone down who actually would know what to do.



#24 OFFLINE   jmckinley

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 09:53 PM

Oh yeah, I forgot - I no longer lock the doors while towing.  Too much grief digging out the metal key, etc, to unlock the doors when the battery inevitably runs down.



#25 OFFLINE   wab

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 07:26 AM

Oh yeah, I forgot - I no longer lock the doors while towing.  Too much grief digging out the metal key, etc, to unlock the doors when the battery inevitably runs down.

I'm going to ask my Forest River forum about the fuse issue.

LOTS of very knowledgeable people over there.

 

Maybe there are some Fusion owners and they will have solved the problem.

 

You might ask this question on your RV forum.

 

wab



#26 OFFLINE   jmckinley

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Posted 17 February 2013 - 02:12 PM

I did post this on IRV2 forum.  Only one other guy over there with a C-Max and he is wintering somewhere so isn't towing much.  No doubt when he heads north he will experience this phenomenon.

 

Once again, thanks to whoever posted about the Stanley Simple Start.  About the size of a hardback book and works like a champ to wake up the electrical system.  I have no idea if it would actually start a regular car, but it's just right for the C-Max.  Also fits in the rear storage under the floor or in the storage compartments behind the front seats. Don't leave home without one.



#27 OFFLINE   air463

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 11:31 PM

Towing Update.......I finally started towing the Cmax and so far we have towed it four times at 150 miles each time.  Yes my battery was dead each time and I had to junp start it each time. I called Ford customer service and complained.  I was told the engineers would be looking at this problem.  Yes and the check is in the mail.......Will be getting with my home town dealer when the trip is over and go from there.  If it takes me calling everyday I hope they are prepared for that.  Not a happy camper right now with the Cmax.



#28 OFFLINE   roninsd

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 12:44 AM

Not happy with the C-Max, or the support?



#29 OFFLINE   wab

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 08:48 AM

RV'ers are very passionate :drool: about our hobby\life style.

 

Of all the forums (rv, motorcycle, car) I belong to I see more over the top :rant2: :drool:  :yahoo:  :runaway: from RV owners.

 

One gentleman wasn't going to be satisfied with a buyback... he was going to start a class-action lawsuit. Someone pointed out that a class-action probably required more than .1% of the owners have the same problem.

 

One lady literally replies to EVERY post.

She currently has over 13 THOUSAND (averaging over 2K per yr) posts AND she still had time to pull her 5th wheel from the east to the west coast by herself.



#30 OFFLINE   air463

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 09:47 PM

Roninsd.......Not happy with the C-Max, or the support?

 

My Cmax has had electrical gremlins since day one. It has unlocked doors, rolled down windows, turned lights on, these were while it set parked overnight. While driving it has turned the nav system off and back on. I had a back hatch latch go bad and needed to replaced. Every time I hear the old can not duplicate from the dealers. Costomer service phone calls I have been told three different answers has to the update for the nav system, and it took me a full week to find out the procedure for getting the car ready for towing since the owners manual does not address the push button start. So for now the car and customer support are in a dead heat race as to who is going to win.



#31 OFFLINE   air463

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 09:54 PM

Update to my last post..............I forgot to mention the five check engine light I have had all with can not duplicate from the dealer



#32 OFFLINE   wab

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 11:10 PM

Roninsd.......Not happy with the C-Max, or the support?

 

My Cmax has had electrical gremlins since day one. It has unlocked doors, rolled down windows, turned lights on, these were while it set parked overnight. While driving it has turned the nav system off and back on. I had a back hatch latch go bad and needed to replaced. Every time I hear the old can not duplicate from the dealers. Costomer service phone calls I have been told three different answers has to the update for the nav system, and it took me a full week to find out the procedure for getting the car ready for towing since the owners manual does not address the push button start. So for now the car and customer support are in a dead heat race as to who is going to win.

 

Roninsd.......Not happy with the C-Max, or the support?

 

My Cmax has had electrical gremlins since day one. It has unlocked doors, rolled down windows, turned lights on, these were while it set parked overnight. While driving it has turned the nav system off and back on. I had a back hatch latch go bad and needed to replaced. Every time I hear the old can not duplicate from the dealers. Costomer service phone calls I have been told three different answers has to the update for the nav system, and it took me a full week to find out the procedure for getting the car ready for towing since the owners manual does not address the push button start. So for now the car and customer support are in a dead heat race as to who is going to win.

 

I'm finally getting :drool:  ready to modify ours for towing.

 

"since the owners manual does not address the push button start."

 

I'm going to guess that you don't step on the brake just push the button

THEN step on the brake and shift to neutral

Make sure everything that can be turned off is off

???

 

Any help and bumps in the road you could help us avoid would be appreciated.

 

I'm pretty sure we'll use the Blue Ox baseplate.

 

wab



#33 OFFLINE   air463

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 10:14 PM

wab

 

Ford customer service told me to run the engine for a few minutes (lub the transmission) shift into neutral and with your foot off the brake just hit the start button again.  This is putting the car in accessory mode.    Be prepared to jump start the car after each time you tow it.   I stop every 150 miles for our dog to go pee and the battery is already dead.  So buy your self a jump start battery and keep it in the car.  It does not take alot to jump the car but I do run the engine for as long as it will let me as to recharge the battery some.  I do make sure everything is off before hitting the start button.   I am hoping they will eventually tell us which fuze to pull (like most cars) to fix this problem.  Good luck our Cmax tows just fine, don't even feel it behind our coach.



#34 OFFLINE   hmatthews102

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 08:01 AM

I have both a good tow bar and a dolly to accommodate the various cars I tow behind my MH. I had planned on setting the CMAX up to be flat towed, but it sounds like it will be better to put it on the dolly. I usually travel with a Miata backed onto the dolly, as there generally is only my wife and myself on the trip. However, once in a while I do need a vehicle with a rear seat for extra people.

#35 OFFLINE   air463

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 12:58 AM

I have both a good tow bar and a dolly to accommodate the various cars I tow behind my MH. I had planned on setting the CMAX up to be flat towed, but it sounds like it will be better to put it on the dolly. I usually travel with a Miata backed onto the dolly, as there generally is only my wife and myself on the trip. However, once in a while I do need a vehicle with a rear seat for extra people.

I know that I have been ticked off about the battery going dead, but when I think how easy it is to hook it up behind the motorhome, and compare what I went through using a tow dolly.  I will always pick the flat towing.  I have a dolly still but I do not plan on using it  for the Cmax.  The dead battery to me is not as bad as using a dolly with the straps that are always coming loose.  And my tow bar stows alot better on the back of the motorhome than a tow dolly does.



#36 OFFLINE   alanstri

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 09:39 PM

I just got my C-Max last week - Ordered it for flat towing behind my Gulfstream Tourmaster, and just got through installing Roadmaster base plates for my All-Terrain tow-bar. Everything fit OK, but the instructions had me cutting away the energy absorbing panel and removing the air duct to the A/C condenser. With a little trimming, I was able to retain the air duct and replace the majority of the panel when I re-installed the bumper cover. I think Roadmaster needs to re-think their instructions.

 

I also installed independent rear lights so I didn't have to interfere with the existing wiring.

 

I searched for more info regarding the keyless entry & towing, and found this forum. After reading this thread, I am not thrilled with the dead battery issue. Even if it is easy to jump start, the battery is not a deep cycle battery and totally discharging repeatedly it will shorten its' life.

 

This afternoon after I finished the installation, I tried this for my test tow of about 5 miles. After hooking up, I touched the start button to turn everything off and then got out and shut the door. I then re-entered the car and manually over-rode the shift lock to put it in neutral without touching the button or the brake pedal.

 

My owner's manual showed removing the right side of the console to reach the shift interlock latch, but it didn't provide access. I pulled up on the shifter boot / trim plate around the shifter and it popped loose. Looking down into the opening, on the left side towards the rear of the opening there is a white plastic lever. If you press the start button, touching the brake pedal will cause this lever to move. If you manually move this lever to the rear, the button on the shifter can be depressed and the transmission can be shifted into neutral.

 

I haven’t made a long trip, but it dash was dark, and it was not nagging me to put it in park.  I tried this with the car on jack-stands, and the wheels were free to turn and steer.



#37 OFFLINE   jmckinley

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 10:53 PM

Not a bad plan.  Hadn't thought of manually getting it into neutral.  I think the steering would be unlocked in your scenario so can't see any reason why it wouldn't work.

 

If it does, then with a little ingenuity we should be able to find an easy way to move the little white lever without pulling the shift boot each time.  Maybe just a small hole drilled in the right place in the console would allow actuating the lever without taking anything apart.

 

Been towing mine for six weeks now, over 3,000 miles, and the 150 mile limit continues, probably shrinking as the battery gets more distressed from being run down over and over again.

 

I think you did the right thing with the air duct and energy adsorbing panel.  I followed Roadmaster's instructions completely and now wish I had of worked on the duct more so it could be left in place and be mostly functional. I hate to pull the big plastic front end off and redo it but I may get to it when I have a free afternoon.



#38 OFFLINE   wab

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 06:40 AM

I'm using the Blue Ox base plate, should be here today.

 

The online pdf shows less cutting, :waiting: we will see.

 

Now I have to buy an adapter for our Roadmaster tow bar.

 

Next will be the fuse/s to pull.

I was hoping the 110 outlet would be hot while in acc mode, :cry: it isn't.



#39 OFFLINE   alanstri

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 07:34 AM

Not a bad plan.  Hadn't thought of manually getting it into neutral.  I think the steering would be unlocked in your scenario so can't see any reason why it wouldn't work.

 

If it does, then with a little ingenuity we should be able to find an easy way to move the little white lever without pulling the shift boot each time.  Maybe just a small hole drilled in the right place in the console would allow actuating the lever without taking anything apart.

 

I had mine up on jack stands when I first tried this.  The front wheels were free to steer and rotate.  I don't think this car has a steering lock!

 

I ran out of time last night, but I think a small hole at the front of the parking brake handle recess and a pull string or wire attached to the lever will do the trick.



#40 OFFLINE   alanstri

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 08:22 AM

I think you did the right thing with the air duct and energy adsorbing panel.  I followed Roadmaster's instructions completely and now wish I had of worked on the duct more so it could be left in place and be mostly functional. I hate to pull the big plastic front end off and redo it but I may get to it when I have a free afternoon.

 

The second time it only takes 15 minutes... ;)

 

I followed the instructions and cut it all away. I thought about that night and took it back apart the next day. Trim the top edge of the air duct back to the 2nd rib and notch for the socket mounts. I cut the ends and bottom lip off the energy absorbing panel to where it fits between the adapter brackets, and re-attached it with 4 heavy zip ties.








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