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DIY Oil Change


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42 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   bobmaxed

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 09:03 PM

I have a 2014 C-Max hybrid.   I have always done my own oil changes and see no reason to stop now.  I would like to hear from owners who have done their own c-max oil changes. It looks like it'll be easier if I use my ramps.  I suspect the underbody tray must come off.   How hard is that?  Are the filter and drain plug easy to find?  Any special issues?

 

Thanks

Bob Holada









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#2 OFFLINE   homestead

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 09:27 PM

I just changed our oil after 1yr and about 8k miles.  It wasn't too bad.  My ramps didn't work until I jacked the passenger side of the car

and then I slipped the ramps halfway under the front tire and 1/3 of the way under the rear.  Then I lowered the jack some so the tires were

partially resting on both ramps on just the passenger side of the car, like giant wheel chocks to make it safe to crawl under the car.

The underbody tray came off and back on easy.  Go for it.



#3 OFFLINE   fotomoto

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 09:28 PM

Yes, you'll have to remove the under tray.  It's rather large and has numerous screws.  That's the most difficult part of the job actually.  You'll need low rise ramps if you don't have them all ready.   The filter and oil drain plug are easy to spot and get to.

 

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#4 OFFLINE   Plus 3 Golfer

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 09:29 PM

I have a 2014 C-Max hybrid.   I have always done my own oil changes and see no reason to stop now.  I would like to hear from owners who have done their own c-max oil changes. It looks like it'll be easier if I use my ramps.  I suspect the underbody tray must come off.   How hard is that?  Are the filter and drain plug easy to find?  Any special issues?
 
Thanks
Bob Holada

Use ramps. Tray comes off. Maybe 1/2 dozen screws. Filter and plug easy to get at. No special issues. Walmart usually stocks the correct motorcraft filter and Mobil 1 0W20 AFE oil In 5 quart jug. Less than $30 total.

#5 OFFLINE   JAZ

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 06:33 AM

Reprint from Hatchman:

 

 

 

1. Torx bit is a T-30, and as stated above, the drain plug is 15mm.  I was able to reach the drain plug with a regular Craftsman 6 point socket and wrench, though it is a little tight. 

2. Oil filter, can't miss it, right on the bottom, middle, forward, of the engine.  Not a lot of room around it, but able to get the wrench on it.   They must have had a 500 pound gorilla tightening oil filters the day this car was made.  YMMV. 

3. Out of the 8 torx screws, the two longest ones go to the outside.  The three in the front and three in the back are shorter.  Don't over tighten, they are just held by plastic "nuts" and will strip. 

 

There is a thick metal tab towards the rear which will help support the underbody panel while you're installing it; make sure it's engaged.

 

Lastly, remember to reset the Oil Life Monitor (procedure found in this forum or in your Owners Manual).


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#6 OFFLINE   BIG ROCCO

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 07:07 PM

I got rid of my ramps 20+ years ago - I used a floor jack to jack up one side at the jacking point on the rocker panel just behind the front wheel arch.  I inserted a small/low Harbor Freight jack stand and then did the same on the other side.  Very easy and very stable and safe.



#7 OFFLINE   scottwood2

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 01:33 PM

I heard someone say that Ford recommends to disconnect the battery before an oil change.  Anyone heard of this?  Anything else special to do this?  What do you do to start the engine after the oil change to make sure there are no leaks?  Turn on the heat?  



#8 OFFLINE   Adrian_L

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 01:44 PM

I heard someone say that Ford recommends to disconnect the battery before an oil change.  Anyone heard of this?  Anything else special to do this?  What do you do to start the engine after the oil change to make sure there are no leaks?  Turn on the heat?  

 

I can't see why they would recommend that.  Unless you have kids playing inside the car, with the keys....

 

Putting her in neutral and stepping on the gas pedal would enagage the ICE, no?  About twenty years ago, I forgot to put the oil pan bolt back in, but fortunately I noticed the puddle of oil before turning the key.



#9 OFFLINE   drdiesel1

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 10:09 PM

I heard someone say that Ford recommends to disconnect the battery before an oil change.  Anyone heard of this?  Anything else special to do this?  What do you do to start the engine after the oil change to make sure there are no leaks?  Turn on the heat?  

Whomever you heard that from is WRONG. To start the ICE, just push the accelerator pedal to WFO

and it will fire up.


Edited by drdiesel1, 05 August 2014 - 10:09 PM.


#10 OFFLINE   wab

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Posted 05 August 2014 - 10:48 PM

Quote

"What do you do to start the engine after the oil change to make sure there are no leaks?  Turn on the heat? "

 

The only way I've been able to start ours when we are towing (per the manual you're supposed to run the motor every couple of hours) is to turn the AC on and let it run on the HV battery, pretty soon the ICE will start.

This is what I do when changing the oil.


Edited by wab, 05 August 2014 - 10:50 PM.

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#11 OFFLINE   scottwood2

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 08:42 AM

Quote

"What do you do to start the engine after the oil change to make sure there are no leaks?  Turn on the heat? "

 

The only way I've been able to start ours when we are towing (per the manual you're supposed to run the motor every couple of hours) is to turn the AC on and let it run on the HV battery, pretty soon the ICE will start.

This is what I do when changing the oil.

Thx for the reply. 

 

Interesting, With the A/C being electric I thought it would take a while for the ICE to come on or does it draw so much power that it drains the battery down enough to have to recharge it? 



#12 OFFLINE   fotomoto

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 08:55 AM

Thx for the reply. 

 

Interesting, With the A/C being electric I thought it would take a while for the ICE to come on or does it draw so much power that it drains the battery down enough to have to recharge it? 

 

Yes, that method would take a loooooong time.  With car on and in Park, simply press the accelerator to the floor and the ICE will start and continue to run through its warmup program (or until you turn the car off) which is more than enough time to get out and check for leaks and get a proper reading on the dipstick.



#13 OFFLINE   wab

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:10 AM

Thx for the reply. 

 

Interesting, With the A/C being electric I thought it would take a while for the ICE to come on or does it draw so much power that it drains the battery down enough to have to recharge it? 

If you use EV+ and are home the HV battery will be pretty low, sometimes ours is very low, it doesn't take long.

When we're towing and the HV is charged  :waiting: I start turning everything on.

 



#14 OFFLINE   drdiesel1

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 09:13 AM

^^^^^ A proper reading on the dipstick can only be attained after the ICE has been off long enough

to allow the oil to drain back into the oil pan. When checking oil level, it's best to check after sitting

for a few hours. You can get a general level by wiping the stick when the engine is shut down,

but the best way to be sure would be after parked overnight ;)  Pull the stick out and read it :rockon:


Edited by drdiesel1, 06 August 2014 - 09:14 AM.


#15 OFFLINE   Adrian_L

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 01:40 PM

Overnight?  Why?  So the oil level on the dipstick rises by 1/32nd of an inch to its "correct" level?!  Why would you need such precision? 

 

You can get a reasonably accurate dipstick reading after being parked on level ground for 10-15 minutes.



#16 OFFLINE   fotomoto

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 02:06 PM

Pg 280 of the OM:

 

ENGINE OIL CHECK

A. MIN B. MAX

Note: Check the level before starting the engine.

Note: Make sure that the level is between the MIN and MAX marks.

1. Make sure that your vehicle is on level ground.

2. Turn the engine off and wait 10 minutes for the oil to drain into the oil pan.

3. Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a clean, lint-free cloth. Replace the dipstick and remove it again to check the oil level.

If the level is at the MIN mark, add oil immediately. 

 



#17 OFFLINE   scottwood2

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Posted 25 May 2015 - 01:49 PM

Just did the oil change today.   It went well.  Did find out that starting the car while holding down the gas pedal will only start the car for about 5 seconds.  I found out that I can hold down the brake and the throttle and it will stay running.  



#18 OFFLINE   rjam

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Posted 27 May 2015 - 11:29 PM

Hi. Am I missing something here. Why do it yourself. Go to Ford site and find this coupon:
THE WORKS™ VEHICLE CHECKUP, $39.95 or less.
• Synthetic Blend Oil Change
• Tire Rotation and Pressure Check
• Brake Inspection
• Multi-Point Inspection
• Fluid Top-Off
• Battery Test
• Filter Check
• Belts and Hoses Check

Up to five quarts of Motorcraft® oil and oil filter. Taxes, diesel vehicles and disposal fees extra. Hybrid battery test excluded. See participating dealership for exclusions and details. So tire rotation and all the other extras for less than $39. When I had the last oil change they saw seepage but didn't know from where so they added the dye. No charge and I have 48K on the car. Took it back a couple weeks later and they checked the dye and found it was rear seal. Gave me a loaner. No charge. Replaced the rear main seal. No charge and gave me a free car wash. Changing my own makes no sense for me. :)

#19 OFFLINE   Robert Fugate

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Posted 28 May 2015 - 10:24 AM

It sounds like a great deal, if it's done right and they don't try to sabotage your car! There's been times of oil plugs stripped, over torque/stripped/broken bolts on the wheels causing warped rims & rotors. Something so simple, if you have the correct tools it can be a piece of cake. Plus the satisfaction of doing it right, cheaper, and in less time!  


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#20 OFFLINE   Plus 3 Golfer

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Posted 28 May 2015 - 03:39 PM

It sounds like a great deal, if it's done right and they don't try to sabotage your car! There's been times of oil plugs stripped, over torque/stripped/broken bolts on the wheels causing warped rims & rotors. Something so simple, if you have the correct tools it can be a piece of cake. Plus the satisfaction of doing it right, cheaper, and in less time!  

+1

 

I've also had small dents in my cars after dealer service.  Problem is I didn't notice them until a day or so later.  It happened on my 2009 Jetta and most recently on my C-Max after my January 2015 trip to the dealer for a recall.  

 

The 3 yr / 36 k free maintenance on my 2009 Jetta TDI likely wasn't "free". ;)  They gave me an extra dent that likely affected trade-in value.


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