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Brake Rottors strange wear pattern

Break Pads / Rorors

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37 replies to this topic

#21 ONLINE   ptjones

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Posted 17 October 2016 - 04:56 PM

Any of you remember backing up and hitting the brakes to adjust them?

Yes, That was for Drum Brakes. :)

 

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#22 OFFLINE   Bill-N

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Posted 18 October 2016 - 11:04 AM

Any of you remember backing up and hitting the brakes to adjust them?

 

Yep.  And the real surprise came when going forward and the brakes engaged much sooner!



#23 OFFLINE   markd

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 04:51 AM

I've never paid anyone to put brakes on a car and see no reason to change now. I started doing brake jobs when I was thirteen, the easiest car repair.
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#24 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 20 October 2016 - 10:21 AM

Looking into this, there's a reason...

https://en.wikipedia...ce_distribution

http://www.aa1car.co...ake_balance.htm

"On vehicles with electronic brake proportioning, the REAR brakes may actually wear out faster than the front brakes...."

 

Rear brake wear is one downside to regen in a car with full electronic wheel control. Note the links refer to conventional drivetrains. Regen only makes it worse. 

 

I think this also explains that feeling the brakes failed as you enter a turn. It's gone now that the back brakes are working properly. 

 

Have fun,

Frank


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#25 OFFLINE   scottwood2

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Posted 24 October 2016 - 07:50 AM

Just took the car in for a list of concerns.   Getting close to the end of standard warranty ~33k miles.   One issue i stated was minor brake noise on the right rear in the morning while driving (no brakes applied).   This was really minor but thought I would put it down on the list to have it looked at.   They ended up resurfacing the rotors in the rear.  Said I had lots of pad left. 


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#26 ONLINE   ptjones

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Posted 24 October 2016 - 08:14 AM

I think unless you do alot of City driving like a Cab, It seems to me they should last 300k-400k  miles. IMO At 139k mi. not much wear. :)

 

Paul



#27 OFFLINE   bberg7794

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Posted 04 April 2017 - 08:56 PM

I have this strange wear pattern on my. Rotors does anyone has the same problem
Please see the pictures and tell me if this is normal. Dealer said this is normal Is it? They say not to be worry about it because my car breaks with the engine. Most of the time
attachicon.gifimage.jpgattachicon.gifimage.jpgattachicon.gifimage.jpgattachicon.gifimage.jpg


First 2 are rear rotors left and right
Second 2 are front rotors left and right

 

 

I have the same thing going on with my car. However I got 75K miles on the original pads and rotors. Front pads seem to have about 60% life left and rears have 40%. I will try some spirited braking and hope this goes away. I know I am bringing up a thread that is over an year old and wanted to see what other members are seeing!

 

 

My brakes look the same as the ones shown in Post #1, braking performance is still excellent and I use Mechanical brake once in a while with tranny in Neurtral. You've got a good dealer because my local dealer gave me a lot of BS about it and wanted me to change the pads and rotors for a lot of money

 

 

My dealership quoted me over 1000$CAD to change all four rotors and pads because pads were worn and rotors rusty on my 2013 C-Max with 35K km on the odometer!

 

I asked a mechanic friend to check it out. On the front, the inside face of the rotors were OK but the outside face showed a pattern similar to the photos in the post above. New pads and cleaning should do the trick.

 

In the back it appears that both sides are quite rusty as it seems they have hardly been used probably because of regen braking. In addition, one and possibly both caliper pistons are seized.

 

I do not drive much and I admit that I have not engaged in "friction" braking to any extent. Does anyone know whether Ford recommends procedures to alleviate the minimal use of such braking with hybrids? And also whether dealerships are told to be on the lookout for this problem when they do regular maintenance?

 

Thanks

 

 

Just took the car in for a list of concerns.   Getting close to the end of standard warranty ~33k miles.   One issue i stated was minor brake noise on the right rear in the morning while driving (no brakes applied).   This was really minor but thought I would put it down on the list to have it looked at.   They ended up resurfacing the rotors in the rear.  Said I had lots of pad left. 

 

I have 52,000 miles on my car now, but my rotors looked like the ones in the photo by the OP right after I drove the car off the lot and have only gotten worse.  My pad wear is minimal.  The brakes have occasionally been noisy while driving at low speed and now they can be grabby if I am braking a bit aggressively.  I too am concerned about the health of the calipers.  Since winter (salt application) is winding down up here, when I go to get my studded tires replaced with my summer tires, I am going to ask my mechanic to assess the overall health of the braking system.  This really is about my only complaint about the vehicle.

 



#28 OFFLINE   obob

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Posted 04 April 2017 - 11:01 PM

I have 52,000 miles on my car now, but my rotors looked like the ones in the photo by the OP right after I drove the car off the lot and have only gotten worse.  My pad wear is minimal.  The brakes have occasionally been noisy while driving at low speed and now they can be grabby if I am braking a bit aggressively.  I too am concerned about the health of the calipers.  Since winter (salt application) is winding down up here, when I go to get my studded tires replaced with my summer tires, I am going to ask my mechanic to assess the overall health of the braking system.  This really is about my only complaint about the vehicle.

 

 

This might save you some money and help the grabbiness.

 

http://fordcmaxhybri...ern/#entry64806

 

If you think the problem is with the rear brakes the emergency brake can be applied.  This might shake up some glazing.

 

There is a lot of incentive for a mechanic to recommend a brake job that has to do with the high profit of a brake job.


Edited by obob, 05 April 2017 - 02:40 PM.


#29 OFFLINE   SnowStorm

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Posted 05 April 2017 - 10:39 AM

Yes, you really have to watch mechanic's "recommendations".  A local garage failed me at inspection for rusty brakes, or some such foolishness.  I went to my tire dealer and his inspector was furious that someone had failed them - saying they were just fine.  I payed for another inspection and haven't been back to the other place since.



#30 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 07 April 2017 - 01:04 AM

... A local garage failed me at inspection for rusty brakes, or some such foolishness....

So did mine.

 

Except my mechanic was right, rotor surface was flaking off. Not the first time I'd seen the failure mode, so no foolishness, just what I'd expect from a good mechanic. 

 

Frank



#31 ONLINE   ptjones

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Posted 07 April 2017 - 10:51 AM

So did mine.

 

Except my mechanic was right, rotor surface was flaking off. Not the first time I'd seen the failure mode, so no foolishness, just what I'd expect from a good mechanic. 

 

Frank

Is that caused from what they put on the ice on the roads during the winter? :sad:

 

Paul



#32 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 01:00 AM

You mean salt? Quite likely. It's a major export crop. You passed the mine if you took I-390 to Corning. 

Frank



#33 OFFLINE   SnowStorm

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Posted 02 November 2018 - 06:10 PM

The "rusty brake police" are going after The Enterprise again.  I had my tires rotated and was told that I would need rear brakes and rotors soon due to rust.  The rears look very much like the OP's rear ones and also, the way they have looked for about 150k miles (at 167k+ now).  My tire shop has been passing them for years (after they were failed by someone else - post #29 above).  So I'm left wondering if there's some easy way to clean off that mottled look on the outer part of the disc before the next inspection.

  • Has anyone had their discs resurfaced?
  • Also, what is the minimum thickness for the pads?

I guess with hybrid friction brakes its "use them or loose them"!  So much for "saving the planet".



#34 ONLINE   homestead

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Posted 02 November 2018 - 07:47 PM

Have you tried braking hard a few times to use the brake pads to clean the rotors?



#35 OFFLINE   cr08

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Posted 02 November 2018 - 08:35 PM

Or simply brake in neutral. No need to hard brake at all to overcome regen.


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#36 OFFLINE   obob

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Posted 03 November 2018 - 12:13 AM

deleted  ( I just repeated post 28 )

 

I have had bad brakes and rotors in another car and the brakes actually don't stop as well - they stop like drum brakes in a car going over 95 mph but not as bad (need to press harder).  I suspect your car still stops really well.


Edited by obob, 06 November 2018 - 03:33 PM.


#37 OFFLINE   klem

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Posted 06 November 2018 - 01:36 PM

Having new tires put on today (Tire Rack / Yokohama Avid Ascend GT - USD$143/EA) and the install shop pointed out the rust on the rotors that look just like these pictures and quoted me > $750 for the 4 rotors and pads.  The pads still have a ton of life at 54K miles.  I also have had no braking issues and get high braking scores.

 

I'm glad I checked this site and see this wear, or rotor rust as the tech called it, is common and normal.

 

Reading down the thread a little, I see a lot of talk about regen braking.  This is my first hybrid.  Could someone please explain how I should be braking?  Do the pads actually hit the rotors when braking and the brake display on the dash shows the braking animation (I don't know what to call it)?  What is the difference between friction braking vs. regen braking?  Is there a best practice I should follow for coming to a stop?

 

 



#38 OFFLINE   cr08

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Posted 06 November 2018 - 02:41 PM

Regen braking is where the brake pads are not doing any of the braking, pads not touching the rotors. It is up to the traction motor that normally propels the car to now act as a generator, creating a braking force itself, and putting that energy back into the battery.

 

Friction braking is as it sounds. That is when the brake pads are being used.

 

The brake coach focuses on just the regen braking. So the higher the score, the more braking is done via regen vs friction brakes.

 

As far as best practice I couldn't say definitively. Efficiency wise it is best to try and max that braking score at all times. If rust does become an actual issue, if it was me I'd take every now and then and just do a normal but consistent braking pass in neutral. Doing it in neutral completely disables regen so it will all be on the friction brakes like a non-hybrid so it should scrape off the surface rust pretty effectively.

 

From my experience with my Energi, there is a noticable effect on brake feel when it has or is raining and I've taken to occasionally doing the above neutral brake in those conditions otherwise when the car gets down to under 5mph and the friction brakes kick in they grab pretty harshly.


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