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1 st oil change


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36 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   homestead

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Posted 14 June 2015 - 11:05 PM

It's confusing to me, the engine only runs about half the time so at 10,000 miles on the car, the engine has only gone 5000 miles running. That's a low mileage to change synthetic oil.

At one year old changed the oil with 7000 miles on it and the oil looked clean.  Changed to full synthetic and one year later after another 8000 miles oil looked dirty.









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#22 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 11:40 AM

I see you're having an oil service life discussion in the dark. Let me shed some light.

 

Attached File  PORTER-013114.pdf   17.4KB   30 downloads
Attached File  PORTER-080114.pdf   18.14KB   23 downloads
 
This is what $35 gets you at Blackstone. There are other labs... 
 
$25 won't include TBN, which is the really important for judging oil age. It's a measure of the pH buffer remaining. A "buffered" solution has additives that will neutralize both acid and base addition, to maintain pH in the target range. An oil with low TBN has a worn-out buffer and pH will start to drop soon.
 
Looks like I had some life left at 25K (nearing 35K now).
 
To Snow's point, the engine is designed to run at high load, for efficiency. To wb8's comment, it's only running half the time, but that means lots of cold starts, operating below operating temperature, and in Winter, never achieving operating temperature.
 
I would expect both aspects to hurt oil life by virtue of increased blow-by on the power stroke. Crankcase ventilation removes most of those gasses, but some still dissolve in the oil and eat away at the buffer solution measured by TBN.
 
I've got full synth 0W20 in now, so we'll see how the fourth change differs.
 
Have fun,
Frank

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#23 OFFLINE   SnowStorm

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 10:21 PM

So could I just measure the pH?  When it starts dropping change the oil.  What kind of pH meter would it take?  I've been using 5W-20 Mobil-1 and the Change Oil warning just popped up.  Could be a fun experiment.



#24 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 02:56 PM

Try it and see. You thinking a pH meter with a really long probe (sample down the oil filler) or would you take a sample as you change?

Frank



#25 OFFLINE   SnowStorm

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 07:38 PM

I was assuming you would need to take out a sample.  Perhaps check when its new and then start checking every month or so after you reach 10k.  This article describes how it was done in a lab using a solvent that makes a reading possible.  (Solvent is Isopropyl Alcohol, Toluene, & Water.)  We don't need accurate lab analysis, just something consistent enough to show a trend.  I certainly don't think you would need a fancy "titrator".  Any amount of data would be better than the zero amount we have now.  We don't change tires that way - go X miles and change, no matter what!  We measure the tread - real data.



#26 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 05:49 PM

... Any amount of data would be better than the zero amount we have now. 

See post 22.


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#27 OFFLINE   SnowStorm

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 08:27 AM

See post 22.

Yes, but I'd like a way to do it myself on an ongoing basis at low cost (after any initial equipment purchase).  The full lab reports give lots of information but for the price, I could buy synthetic oil and a "good" filter and just go ahead and change.



#28 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 09:27 AM

Agreed, but I haven't had a new car since 1983, my fuel budget is flush, and I'm interested in the reliability of this hybrid drivetrain.

 

These things run under high load, with frequent stop/starts and spend a lot of time below operating temperature. No conventional drivetrain can match the stresses a hybrid puts on oil, and as a first-model-year owner, it's possible Ford didn't get things 100.000% right (tranny bearing?) Maybe I'll get advance warning of something in the engine... maybe not, but it's part of the fun. 

 

Have fun,

frank



#29 OFFLINE   SnowStorm

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 11:33 AM

Oh yes, the transmission.  I'm a bit concerned there as I'll be out of warranty in a year, I assume my car pre-dates the fix, I expect to go 250k and certainly don't want to pay for a new tranny.  A transmission fluid analysis just might be worth it.



#30 OFFLINE   cheezy

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Posted 16 July 2015 - 10:16 AM

 

I won't be going to the dealer anymore they are too expensive and ive always changed my own oil, transmission fluid and did tune ups on all my vehicles

 

I'd like to know what other 2013 cmax hybrid drivers use for oil

 

thanks

 

Ditto on DIY wrenching. 

 

I'll run what the Dealer had in this '13 SEL with 64K on it, have a Ford Dealer put it up on their rack for the next oil/filter change to run for another 8-10K, then switch over to my preferred 100% Synthetic Amsoil. Filter changes at 50% of oil life, do a BlackStone eval., etc..

 

Great thread.  



#31 OFFLINE   VerbalK

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Posted 18 March 2016 - 10:06 PM

My lord, tried to do an oil change today, barely enough clearance to get to the drain bolt with a socket wrench.  Didn;t want to strip or break it, So I'll bring it to a shop with my own oil and filter.  Ive had it 9 months with 11K, still no light.



#32 OFFLINE   Plus 3 Golfer

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Posted 19 March 2016 - 05:50 AM

My lord, tried to do an oil change today, barely enough clearance to get to the drain bolt with a socket wrench.  Didn;t want to strip or break it, So I'll bring it to a shop with my own oil and filter.  Ive had it 9 months with 11K, still no light.

Really, I've done five OC and have no issues that would "make" me take it to a shop for an OC.  What size wrench did you use - 1/2"? Try 3/8" inch using breaker bar not ratchet (which is what I use).

 

Also, I've never used a torque wrench on a drain plug as my hand "knows" best (never stripped threads yet). IMO, there's a greater chance that the oil change jocks at the shop will strip the threads and not tell anyone.  One discovers it when they see oil drippings on the garage floor months later.  It happens. :)


Edited by Plus 3 Golfer, 19 March 2016 - 05:55 AM.


#33 OFFLINE   WNY

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Posted 19 March 2016 - 06:11 AM

I had the dealer do my first oil change since I bought it last Aug. a bit over 10K miles and the light came one. wasn't sure how hard to remove the belly pan and how high i needed to get the car to access everything since they sit so low. 



#34 OFFLINE   Plus 3 Golfer

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Posted 19 March 2016 - 06:59 AM

I had the dealer do my first oil change since I bought it last Aug. a bit over 10K miles and the light came one. wasn't sure how hard to remove the belly pan and how high i needed to get the car to access everything since they sit so low. 

The belly pan is easy to remove. But you do need to raise the car high enough to get to the back screws of the belly pan.  Although I haven't tried it, you can probably drive the front of the car up on a couple of 2X6 boards (say an 8 footer, cut into 2 - 30" and 2 - 18 " pieces with an 18" inch piece screwed to the top of a 30" piece).  Thus, with car raised about 3 inches one should be able to squeeze  far enough under the car from behind the front tires to reach the back screws of the belly pan or perhaps even from the front of the car.  

 

But a set of ramps works great and provides ample lift to make the job easy.  :)  :)



#35 OFFLINE   SnowStorm

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Posted 19 March 2016 - 08:23 AM

I have a slope going up into the garage so I back in (EV mode - no fumes in garage!) then pull forward onto 2x lumber right at the exit of the garage giving another 1.5" (set brake, chock rear wheels).  That gives plenty of room.  On a flat I certainly expect you would need the 3" or more.  Be sure to hook the back of the belly pan into the underside of the car before putting the bolts back in.  You hook it in place, put one bolt in the front and the rest is easy.



#36 OFFLINE   WNY

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Posted 19 March 2016 - 08:24 AM

I do have the 2x8 homemade stepped ramps, wasn't sure how easy it was with the pan under it. maybe I'll try it next oil change. :) thx. 

 

build them like these
http://www.pbase.com...64/original.jpg

 

I had the good metal ramps, and when I pulled my truck up on them, and stopped, one dug into the ground and decided to collapse. oops. 
the metal ones were too steep for the lower cars anyway. 


Edited by WNY, 19 March 2016 - 09:01 AM.


#37 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 19 March 2016 - 01:11 PM

I've use twp floor jacks and then jack stands to add safety.  You maybe able to unscrew the oil filter by hand otherwise use a oil filter remover to get it off. Only takes a couple of minutes to remove the cover enough to remove filter and drain oil into pan. :)

 

Paul








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