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Installing ICE Block Heater

block heater

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56 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 04 November 2014 - 10:59 PM

I'm in the process of installing a FORD ICE Block Heater and have got to the point of screwing in the block heater. I will try to take pics to try to show how to do it. 

The steps required are first remove ICE lower cover.

Remove three bolts from brace under exhaust system and remove.

Make 14mm allen socket for removing Freeze Plug

Remove freeze plug, big mess coolant draining out of block. :sad:

Loosen 7 nuts on exhaust manifold and remove two nuts from catalytic converter, tilt manifold up to make more room to

Screw in ICE Block Heater and attach power cord.

Reinstall all parts and fill coolant back in reservoir. :) 

 

Paul 


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#2 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 05 November 2014 - 02:03 PM

Good man! Doing it the right way!

Frank



#3 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 05 November 2014 - 02:15 PM

Good man! Doing it the right way!

Frank

I will let you know what the right way is when I get finished. Still work in progress. LOL :)

 

Paul



#4 OFFLINE   stevedebi

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Posted 05 November 2014 - 03:23 PM

Does this really heat the block, or is it heating the oil pan?



#5 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 05 November 2014 - 11:15 PM

This screws into the block and heats up the coolant, this is the actual FORD Part. I'm working on enlarging the pictures and will post them when I figure it out. 

 

First I don't recommend doing this because it is almost impossible to do. Instead I would attach another Oil Pan Heater to the back side of the Block and can be done in 15-20min. instead of a whole day!  I wasn't sure I would  get it done at all.

 

1. Removed lower ICE cover.(8 star head screws)

2. Removed right half shaft skid plate (3 bolts)

3. Removed exhaust manifold brace (4 bolts)

4. Removed 14mm allen socket freeze plug with 3/8" to 1/2" adapter where 1/2" side is ground to fit freeze plug. I could loan this out if someone is crazy enough to try this.

5. Install Freeze Plug Block Heater, this is very hard to do for the lack of space between Exhaust Manifold and Block. I tried to loosen Exhaust Manifold but that wasn't going to happen. Check to make sure it works.

6. Install Exhaust Manifold Brace.

7. Install right half shaft skid plate.

8. Pore Coolant back into radiator reservoir, be careful not to pore in to fast and over flow.

9. Check for leaks.

10. Install lower ICE Cover.  :) 

 

Paul


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#6 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 06 November 2014 - 05:27 PM

Did some testing with Block heater and Oil Pan Heater. I ran Block Heater alone for one hour 69*F to 104*F WT. Then both Oil Pan and Block Heaters from 80*F to 107*F WT in one hour with OT of 72*F. Continued for another hour to 137*F WT and then another hour to 141*F. It looks like two hours is the most you want to run it normally, waist of money after that. I was thinking about making a temp controller and timer. At thoughts temps you should get instant heat from the heater. :)

 

Paul


Edited by ptjones, 06 November 2014 - 05:32 PM.


#7 OFFLINE   kostby

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Posted 07 November 2014 - 01:42 AM

I just purchased this "Smart Electronics" water-resistant 24-hour timer with 2 grounded outlets and a remote on/off fob at Menards.

It's rated at 10 amp resistive load/1000 watts tungsten load, so it should be more than adequate for the 125-watt Wolverine oil pan heater.

 

Once set, the timer can be turned on and off remotely with the fob up to 80 ft away from inside the house.

Then it will automatically shut off after 2, 4, or 8 hours, so I don't accidentally leave it run way longer than necessary.

 

I tested the 2-hour setting to try it out when the garage temp was about 45, and the oil pan was noticeably warmer to the touch than the upper engine surfaces, but (as I expected) the coolant temp wasn't measurably affected on the left-hand Diagnostics mode display.

 

Similar timers are surely available cheaper on Amazon and eBay, but I wasn't really sure what features I wanted until I looked at the many timers available in the store.


Edited by kostby, 07 November 2014 - 01:45 AM.

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#8 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 07 November 2014 - 09:58 AM

With only the 125W Oil Pan Heater when I get home or work I plug it in immediately and just leave it on until I leave in the morning. It doesn't draw every much power and I see 21-23*F increase WT over ambient temp. It is a completely different story with Block and Oil Pan Heaters together, it only takes 2hrs to get 60*F rise in temps. Together they use 575W, way more than Oil Pan Heater alone. Interesting note WT drops about 10*F when the ICE starts, but quickly heats back up. :)

 

Paul


Edited by ptjones, 11 November 2014 - 03:33 PM.


#9 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 07 November 2014 - 12:28 PM

I suspect the immersion heater will be far more effective when ambient air is actually cold... 72F is summer around here! Just the weather you want when crawling under a car, though!

 

And it makes sense that the coolant temp initially drops, as coolant circulation hits the cold parts, and assuming the thermostat's open, the radiator is a reservoir of ambeint temperature coolant.

 

It'll be interesting to see how you feel about the install after a few months... yesterday morning, my engine never reached operating temperature, and as a result, it wouldn't kick into EV+ when driving past the dealer (on my route, 4 miles from the start) or at my destination, 15.3 miles. No issues in the evening, even at the same ambient temp. It's the cold soak at the daily minimum temperature that really hurts... but only about a 10% hit to mileage, as I was able to follow my normal ICE/EV pattern with temps around 40F.

 

HAve fun,

Frank



#10 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 07 November 2014 - 01:33 PM

I suspect the immersion heater will be far more effective when ambient air is actually cold... 72F is summer around here! Just the weather you want when crawling under a car, though!

 

And it makes sense that the coolant temp initially drops, as coolant circulation hits the cold parts, and assuming the thermostat's open, the radiator is a reservoir of ambeint temperature coolant.

 

It'll be interesting to see how you feel about the install after a few months... yesterday morning, my engine never reached operating temperature, and as a result, it wouldn't kick into EV+ when driving past the dealer (on my route, 4 miles from the start) or at my destination, 15.3 miles. No issues in the evening, even at the same ambient temp. It's the cold soak at the daily minimum temperature that really hurts... but only about a 10% hit to mileage, as I was able to follow my normal ICE/EV pattern with temps around 40F.

 

HAve fun,

Frank

Thermostat doesn't open until around 182*F and fully open at 202*F. The coolant and Block are cooler at the bottom of Block and it takes a minute for Hot Oil and heat from ICE to start heating things up. I would guess that you would still see a 60*F rise in WT when temps are much colder. :)

 

Paul



#11 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 10 November 2014 - 05:56 PM

hope these pics will work.

sml_gallery_143_17_5089.jpg
FORD CMAX ICE Block Heater
sml_gallery_143_17_595045.jpg
Rear Side of ICE block with freeze plug hole upper left. Exhaust manifold up above.
sml_gallery_143_17_169295.jpg
ICE Block Heater installed center right.
sml_gallery_143_17_489167.jpg
Showing smooth area where oil pan heater could be installed.
sml_gallery_143_17_122285.jpg
Turned 1/2" to 3/8" adapter into 14mm Allen socket wrench. Had to do this to have enough room to remove freeze plug. :)

Edited by ptjones, 27 October 2015 - 04:38 PM.

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#12 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 11 November 2014 - 04:13 PM

A ICE Block Heater is probably the best, most efficient way to heat the ICE. Unfortunately it is the most difficult solution if it doesn't come stock with one. Oil Pan Heater is the easiest solution, but there is limited space on the bottom of Oil Pan(125W) so that limits size of Heater. But an additional Oil Pan Heater can be applied to back side of Block fairly easily that could have twice Wattage(250W of the Oil Pan Heater.This could have substantial heating capability.   Wire heat tape is another option that would be relatively easy to do, but not very efficient getting heat into the block and not sure what the long term effects on the hoses would be. The radiator hose circulating heater wouldn't be bad if you can get to circulate coolant into the block. I don't know if there are any room constraints. IMO :) 

 

Paul   



#13 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 14 November 2014 - 10:31 AM

I left MADMAX(He doesn't like the cold) outside last Night to test the ICE Block and Oil Pan Heaters in the cold. This Morning I turned on the Heaters at 7:37AM the OT was 26*F, IT 33*F and WT 35*F then when I went to work at                                                                                                                                                                                                                 9:28AM  the OT was 36*F, IT 55*F and WT 83*F, a difference of 57*F. :) 

Paul                    


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#14 OFFLINE   Tomasz Karwowski

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Posted 22 October 2015 - 12:15 PM

Hello 

I want to buy engine block heater in Poland but i do not know what is the size of the thread. I found Part 11409 NPT heater - 3/4" (the seller write that it physically measures to 1"). Could you write what is the thread size of original heater?? Thanks for help. 



#15 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 22 October 2015 - 01:51 PM

Engine Block Heater is Great except it is extremely hard to install, It took me several hours to install. I would not recommend it.  Instead install two Wolverine Model 9 oil pan heaters( available on eBay), one on the bottom of oil pan and one on the back side of the engine block. This you could by 

Rear side ICE Block
You could oil pan heater here on the back of the block easily here.
Oil Pan Heater
Oil pan heater here on the bottom of the ICE. :)
 
Paul


#16 OFFLINE   Tomasz Karwowski

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Posted 22 October 2015 - 02:10 PM

Yes, I know but I must to buy 230V heater. On ebay is only 110 for c-max hybrid. In Poland is only Mondeo hybrid (Fusion Hybrid) - only 2015 - it is to new car to found aftermarket parts. 

And - I like to get dirty in the garage :)



#17 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 22 October 2015 - 02:53 PM

I was just thinking you could wire the two Model 9 Oil Pan heaters in series so they combined voltage would be 250 Volt, problem solved.

You almost have to remove the ICE to remove exhaust manifold.  In my case I was lucky to be able to plug wire into block heater, but it came loose when the Dealer replaced the Transmission.  Maybe I can talk my Grandson into sticking his hand up there to see if he can plug it in.  It may take a serious bribe to pull that one off. LOL :) 

 

Paul

ICE/Trans
 ICE and Trans out of car.
 
Paul


#18 OFFLINE   Tomasz Karwowski

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Posted 22 October 2015 - 03:15 PM

I replaced the transmission one year ago but never tought about the heater. I must to try :) If i found proper size of heater. 



#19 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 22 October 2015 - 03:57 PM

I would think if the Fusion has a 4 cylinder engine the block heater would work in a CMAX. My FORD block heater would fit Focus, CMAX, Fusion, pretty much all 4 cylinder FORD engines. :)

 

Paul



#20 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 23 October 2015 - 01:51 PM

And if it's more work than you'd like getting to the block immersion heater, consider a lower radiator hose-based immersion heater.

http://www.fivestarm...uring.com/kat_s








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