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Brake light bulb type and LED bulb discussion


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113 replies to this topic

#41 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 04:28 PM

I used a flat screwdriver, tried to pry up a tab while putting pressure on the mirror with my other hand.  I think if you push closer to the centre of the mirror, the better.  Then I tried prying up another tab.  Eventually it popped off.  I started with the mirror all the way down and towards the car and used the exposed corner.  I found, though, that when the mirror popped loose, it got wedged in the housing.  I had to tilt the mirror toward a more normal position and was able to remove the glass.  I didn't disconnect the wires for the heated mirrors, I lowered the front windows and just let it rest on the window sill.

 

I *may* attempt to do this again, to put in brighter puddle lamps... lol









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#42 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 07:41 PM

Well, now I know.  A Putco Plasma 921 LED (52mm or 2.05") is a few mm too long for the reverse light.  I can snap everything back together, but the end of the LED is pressing on the U shaped plastic piece in the reverse light housing.  I was contemplating removing that U shaped bit, but wasn't sure I could fish it out of the housing without damaging something or having to take the housing apart.  In the end, I just put the Philips Xtreme Vision 921 bulbs back in.  It's bright enough.


Edited by notquitesane, 10 June 2015 - 07:24 AM.


#43 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 10 June 2015 - 03:53 PM

I had pretty good luck with the side mirrors, tilting them up  and in all the way and using a mini-crow bar to gently push the center area outwards away from mirror holder. pushing out on that one spot popped the whole mirror off pretty cleanly.

 

and yeah, I hear ya, the white led batch I got is nice led quality, but not killer bright lumens since is same ones used for license plate and trunk area....



#44 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 10 June 2015 - 03:58 PM

I am having a bear of a time finding a 7443 bulb that actually works, have gone through two failed attempts.

The ones I  have tried so far work EITHER as a brake only light, or if turn 180 degrees, then work ONLY as a park/tail light.

 

I don't get how these dual filaments get tested or why they don't work in same way as dual filament incandescent.

Interior contacts are for park light, exterior contacts for brighter brake, 2 different brightnesses...

 

Also don't get how vendors test these and why doesn't work in my car.

 

Any recommendations?



#45 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 10 June 2015 - 04:15 PM

Wow.  That's a bit of trouble you've been having with those brake lights.  The only thing I can think of is they didn't get the pins in the correct spot if it half works one way, and half works when spun 180°.  Can you post a link to what you have tried so far?



#46 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 10 June 2015 - 06:08 PM

Wow.  That's a bit of trouble you've been having with those brake lights.  The only thing I can think of is they didn't get the pins in the correct spot if it half works one way, and half works when spun 180°.  Can you post a link to what you have tried so far?

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

failed

and

http://www.ebay.com/...5634ff9&vxp=mtr

also failed

 

Pins match the incandescent dual filament W21/5W, but perhaps internal wiring to the LED's is screwy?

 

How hard can it be?



#47 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 10 June 2015 - 06:15 PM

7443 Bulb

 

Click on image to read the label is a  W21/5W dual filament bulb I'm tring to replace.

Notice the inside pins light up the top filament which is the dimmer (park/tail) filament.

The outside pins light up the lower filament which is the brighter brake light.


Edited by Madmax98, 10 June 2015 - 06:16 PM.


#48 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 10 June 2015 - 07:08 PM

The only thing I can suggest is to make sure the wires on the LEDs are straight.  Sometimes they don't line up with  the contacts in the socket and do strange things. If you have access to a power supply, verify that your LEDs light up with that.  If it does then there is something not contacting correctly in your socket.



#49 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 11 June 2015 - 09:09 AM

I'm not sure where I read/saw that the Ford socket is 'Standard', but upon closer inspection, ground contacts are across the same side of the socket, making this a 'CK'  type socket after all according to many of the drawings out there at bulb vendor sites.

 

Not sure I can convert this bulb by bending pins around, or if I can find a CK style LED bulb replacement....will update later.



#50 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 11 June 2015 - 10:43 AM

I'l take my tail light out at break and see what I can find out. 



#51 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 11 June 2015 - 11:20 AM

Oh my. It appears they are CK type.  I thought they were standard as the Philips Xtreme Vision 7443 LEDs I used work.  The bulbs have a + stamped on either side of the bulb base, they light up in park mode and brake mode.  I even tested them like standard base LEDs when I got them.  The Philips must have some sort of circuitry to detect standard and CK types and adjust accordingly.  I appologize.  I feel horrible.

 

If you can straighten the wires and remove the base, you can adjust where the wires go to work with the CK type.


Edited by notquitesane, 11 June 2015 - 12:47 PM.


#52 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 10:30 AM

No worries, it wasn't just you, I've got another seller saying their Phillips chart saying their 7443 should work too and not labeled as CK.  As long as ebay sellers are kind/trusting enough to refund me, it's just waiting for next order to come, some return shipping costs.   

 

I am surprised that the Phillips work, I wonder if any different from 2013 socket.

 

Got a link for where you sourced your Philips Xtreme Vision?

 

I found one seller with Red version, but I'm still not convinced Red ends up being brighter, even if color 'purer'.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...RS:1123&vxp=mtr



#53 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 11:03 AM

On my 2015 for the 7443 brake lamp socket is as you described, two grounds on one of the long sides.

 

This is where I bought the Philips Vision LEDs (thought they were xtreme, but they aren't.  My reverse lights and signal lights are).  I also have the 1157 version for the inner tail lights to match.  The Philips are the same brightness as the stock incandescent bulb using only 8 LEDs and consuming 2W of power.  They just place the light where the incandescent filament would usually go in order to fully utilize the reflector.

http://www.xenondepo...b-p/12835b2.htm

It is a Canadian company though.  It seems they charge in US dollars though.  With the 15% discount and $5 shipping, the bulbs come to  $30.49.  I also saw them listed on Amazon.com for around $24.

 

Usually white leds behind a red lense creates a pinkish colour and is usually dimmer than it should be.  The lense filters out all other colours other than red, so you lose most of the light.  With a red LED, most of the light passes through the lense as it is the same colour as the lense.  I've always bought LEDs the same colour as the lense.

 

Edited regarding pricing at Xenon Depot.


Edited by notquitesane, 12 June 2015 - 11:48 AM.


#54 OFFLINE   jdbob

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 09:59 PM

I replaced License Plate Lamp W5W above with a Sylvania 194LED which also shows part numbers 168 and 2825.

 

I just replaced my right-hand license plate bulb with the Sylvania. The left-hand light assembly had previously been replaced with an after-market rear-view camera assembly that included a white LED to replace the functionality of the removed light assembly.

 

I found that one or the other LED would glow dimly even when the lights were supposed to be off. I measured the voltage and it was about 5V in that condition. I assume Ford is running a small current through the circuit and measuring the voltage to make sure both bulbs haven't burned out.

 

The car didn't indicate any problem with the 5V but without knowing what voltage threshold they are using I decided to play it safe. I put a 2K ohm 1/4 Watt resistor across the bulb wires and that dropped the voltage to 2V and extinguished the LED. 



#55 OFFLINE   jdbob

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Posted 13 June 2015 - 05:02 PM

Without the resistor the car did think the bulbs were burned out.

 

licenselight.png



#56 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 13 June 2015 - 07:12 PM

So I guess that means it would be a good idea to buy those canbus compatible bulbs for our cars then.  I didn't know our cars would throw a code for lights like that.



#57 OFFLINE   jdbob

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Posted 13 June 2015 - 10:27 PM

The canbus compatible bulbs just have a resistor in parallel to (hopefully) make the computer think there is a good bulb there. Unfortunately there isn't some international standard regarding how low the resistance needs to be. In the case of the license plate bulb on the C-Max I was reading 2V across the 2000 ohm resistor, so 2.0 / 2000 = 0.001 Amp (1ma). Some other car might run ten times that much current. Another variable is how the computer determines whether there is a good bulb or not, they could measure the voltage, but they could set the good/bad voltage threshold anywhere they wanted to.

 

Without any standards no one can guarantee if it will work or not. I cleared the DTC that was there and I'll check again after another car on/off cycle to see if it comes back. If so, I change to a 1000 ohm resistor. Of course, the lower the resistance, the more heat it's going to give off, and I'll have to use a higher wattage to make sure it doesn't burn out.



#58 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 14 June 2015 - 12:04 AM

I've pretty much replaced all the lights on the outside with LEDs, with the exception of the headlight and foglights.  The only bulbs I placed a resistor across was the center brake light.  After I put LEDs in there and they were ghosting.  I know my license plate lights do it as well but haven't tried to fix it.  No DTCs for me yet.  I am guessing the flickering was enough of a draw to fool the car into thinking a bulb is there in my case.

 

I hooked up a 1000 ohm resistor to 14.5V at work for an hour.  It was cool to the touch since it is low current running through it.  I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to melt anything.  I used a 1000 ohm resistor for my center brake lights to prevent the flickering.



#59 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 11:54 AM

The xenondepot option  shows a CANBUS option for an additional $17. I certainly hope not to need resistors or canbus for use between park/brake light and based on your pricing mentioned @notquitesane, it looks like you didn't get canbus option.

 

http://www.xenondepo...b-p/12835b2.htm

 

 

Here's another Phillips 7443 option on ebay.

Vendor says the Phillips red are only 50 lumens (which is subjective according to some - so I assume vendor means that this is Lumen rating PER led, so this should be 8x50=400).

 

I'm considering purchasing to compare with white CK led option I am waiting on which another vendor claims to be 1400 lumen as brake, and about 700 as tail.  I have to think that 3x in white will still be brighter, even if a little pinker, I'd rather go for BRIGHTer, otherwise not much point just for speed and load....

 

 

a white ck 7443 option (still waiting to receive)

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

here is another Phillips 7443 red led option

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT



#60 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 01:15 PM

I did not select the canbus option and I have no issues with the brake lights. 

 

The white LED you orders uses 2538 led chips, so it should be bright.  I hope the white will look ok behind the red lens.

 

For the Philips, 50 lumen per LED makes sense, as you mentioned.  A regular incandescent 7443 bulb is rated at 440 lumens.  I can say that the Philips compared to the stock bulb, look the same.  My primary goal was having the instant on/off of an LED.  However, I have pre-ordered new LEDs for the front turn signals and rear brakes.  They won't arrive stateside till end of June, then I have to wait for insane amounts of time for the postal system to send it to Canada.

 

I recently ordered reverse lights. They originated from Seattle, WA.  I am in Edmonton, AB.  One would think it would head to Vancouver, BC, then onto Edmonton.  So far, my LEDs have gone from Seattle to Los Angeles.  Eventually they'll start heading North!!!








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