Well I jumped the gun - should have waited for your answer. Shop had a 3:30 opening today so took it in.
Before | After values are given below (of course a lot of these can't be adjusted anyway):
Camber LF = -0.7 | -0.7 RF = -0.6 | -0.6
Caster LF = 4.6 | 4.6 RF = 4.2 | 4.2
Toe LF = 1/16" | 1/16" RF = -1/32" | 1/16" Total Toe = 1/32" | 5/32" Steer Ahead = 0.09* | 0.02*
(the RF Toe and Steer Ahead were flagged as out of spec)
Camber LR = -2.2* | -2.3* RR = -1.8* | -1.9*
Toe LR = 3/32" | 3/32" Toe RR = 1/16" | 3/32" Total Toe = 5/32" | 3/16" Thrust Angle = 0.05* | 0.01*
So it looks like I ended up with more toe in than before! So much for +6 mpg!
Not sure yet how to convert inches to degrees (crazy system - what's wrong with degrees?)
The -2.2* rear camber is near the limit, flagged "yellow" on their system, but that's the one that needs a replacement control arm to correct (gives a fixed +1* correction). Don't yet have a price but there's some suspicion that it might help the inside edge wear problem (if you call a bit of abnormal wear at 65k miles a problem). Other option would be to reverse mount the tires half way through their life and re-balance - that costs $60 total. Paul, how much was the new control arm and how far off was the alignment before replacement?
I guess I'll drive these settings for a bit and see. Then maybe get it redone when new tires go on. We normally have a total load of about 400 pounds, sometimes more, rarely less.
+3, are you saying it would be best to weight the car with a "normal" load and then get it done at 0 toe? Thanks everyone.