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How long did your Rear Brake & Rotors last?


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59 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   stevedebi

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 05:13 PM

Rear brake pads are used first in comparison to front brake pads, but after regen braking.

That's what I thought! Thanks for the clarification.









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#22 OFFLINE   BIG ROCCO

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 07:21 PM

From the Workshop Manual:

 

Summary: friction brakes are only used when needed. Rear brake pads are used first since regen happens only on front axle. When braking & turning the regen brake force is reduced & the pads are engaged. This is because regen braking can only brake at the axle. When turning you need to brake the inside wheels differently than the outside wheels. Thus, regen braking is drastically reduced when braking & turning. The transition when braking & turning from regen to friction brake pads should be imperceptible.

 

 

What Workshop Manual?  Do you mind sharing where you got it and how much it cost?



#23 OFFLINE   cmax-nynj

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 08:24 AM

So what if there are grooves on the rear rotors while the pads are only half worn?   I haven't noticed any decreased braking performance.  In fact, I like the stock pads / rotors because there is zero squeak and dust.  Just take a look at some European cars and you will see how bad some of them are.



#24 OFFLINE   hybridbear

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 08:36 AM

What Workshop Manual?  Do you mind sharing where you got it and how much it cost?

You can buy access to it from Ford here: https://www.motorcra...pageid=&gutsid=

 

This gives you access to both the Workshop Manual & all TSBs, SSMs, etc in OASIS. This is what the dealers use.

 

An alternative is to buy a CD on eBay. Mine was a gift from a friend. He bought one on eBay and then it started acting up so he contacted the seller who sent him another disc. A few weeks later he discovered that the issue was with his computer & not the disc, so he sent me the spare CD. You cannot install the files from the CD on to your computer, you must always have the CD in the CD Drive in order to use it. The one I have is for MY2013. I can post a pic of the CD later.


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#25 ONLINE   ptjones

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 10:36 AM

What Workshop Manual?  Do you mind sharing where you got it and how much it cost?

I got mine a couple of years ago, I did a search came up with this site: http://www.auto-repa...ion-CD-ROM.htmlfor $196.95 I would recommend looking on ebay motors to find one cheaper. :) 

 

Paul 



#26 OFFLINE   BIG ROCCO

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 05:07 PM

You can buy access to it from Ford here: https://www.motorcra...pageid=&gutsid=

 

This gives you access to both the Workshop Manual & all TSBs, SSMs, etc in OASIS. This is what the dealers use.

 

An alternative is to buy a CD on eBay. Mine was a gift from a friend. He bought one on eBay and then it started acting up so he contacted the seller who sent him another disc. A few weeks later he discovered that the issue was with his computer & not the disc, so he sent me the spare CD. You cannot install the files from the CD on to your computer, you must always have the CD in the CD Drive in order to use it. The one I have is for MY2013. I can post a pic of the CD later.

Thank you.  I bought a 2013 CM manual on e-bay for ~$20 - it is supposed to be the same as the dealer uses - it does not seem that way to me.  It did not seem to give a lot of explanation and verbiage - just mostly symbols and drawings for the procedure.  Maybe that's the way the manuals are nowadays, and I'm just showing my age?  The manual is on DVD and yes it needs to be in the DVD drawer when accessing the manual.  We recently replaced our '13 with an identical '15 CM, so I'm not sure how different the '15 manual would be - maybe a 72 hour subscription would be a good way to investigate.  Does the one your friend sent you seem the same as your online access manual you purchased from Ford?

 

Thank you again.



#27 OFFLINE   hybridbear

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Posted 19 September 2015 - 07:39 AM

Thank you.  I bought a 2013 CM manual on e-bay for ~$20 - it is supposed to be the same as the dealer uses - it does not seem that way to me.  It did not seem to give a lot of explanation and verbiage - just mostly symbols and drawings for the procedure.  Maybe that's the way the manuals are nowadays, and I'm just showing my age?  The manual is on DVD and yes it needs to be in the DVD drawer when accessing the manual.  We recently replaced our '13 with an identical '15 CM, so I'm not sure how different the '15 manual would be - maybe a 72 hour subscription would be a good way to investigate.  Does the one your friend sent you seem the same as your online access manual you purchased from Ford?

 

Thank you again.

The CD I have is basically identical to what's available via the Motorcraft Service website. Some things are missing from the CD & it will tell you that you must have access to the online subscription to view that section of the Workshop Manual.

 

The online subscription only gives you access to one vehicle. The CD includes all Fords for that model year.

 

We purchased a shared OASIS subscription at the FFH Forum that we shared among the moderators so that we could post TSBs & SSMs for the community. That subscription has now expired and we don't know if it is worth renewing.


Edited by hybridbear, 19 September 2015 - 07:39 AM.

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#28 ONLINE   ptjones

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Posted 19 September 2015 - 03:19 PM

Mime is the FORD 2013 Service information for CMAX Hybrid/Energi FCS-21229-13 version 1.0 :)

 

Paul



#29 OFFLINE   hybridbear

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 07:45 AM



Thank you.  I bought a 2013 CM manual on e-bay for ~$20 - it is supposed to be the same as the dealer uses - it does not seem that way to me.  It did not seem to give a lot of explanation and verbiage - just mostly symbols and drawings for the procedure.  Maybe that's the way the manuals are nowadays, and I'm just showing my age?  The manual is on DVD and yes it needs to be in the DVD drawer when accessing the manual.  We recently replaced our '13 with an identical '15 CM, so I'm not sure how different the '15 manual would be - maybe a 72 hour subscription would be a good way to investigate.  Does the one your friend sent you seem the same as your online access manual you purchased from Ford?

 

Thank you again.

Here's a photo of the CD I have:th_111B44C3-A75A-4EC3-86D0-BC47D87092B9_


Edited by hybridbear, 22 September 2015 - 07:46 AM.


#30 OFFLINE   BIG ROCCO

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 01:51 PM

The CD I have is basically identical to what's available via the Motorcraft Service website. Some things are missing from the CD & it will tell you that you must have access to the online subscription to view that section of the Workshop Manual.

 

The online subscription only gives you access to one vehicle. The CD includes all Fords for that model year.

 

We purchased a shared OASIS subscription at the FFH Forum that we shared among the moderators so that we could post TSBs & SSMs for the community. That subscription has now expired and we don't know if it is worth renewing.

OK thanks for your reply and also the photo.  At this point, the 2015 has only traveled 350 miles.  I know (from owning the 2013) how to change the oil, rotate the tires and inspect/replace the air filter and cabin air filter.  Everything else should be covered by warranty for the next 3 yrs/36K miles.  Based on your input, I think the online subscription seems to be better than the DVD and might be worth checking out...someday, when I need it. Thank you again.



#31 ONLINE   ptjones

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 02:43 PM

Here is the one I got from FORD:

:)
 
Paul


#32 OFFLINE   cmax-nynj

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Posted 28 September 2015 - 08:56 PM

here are the photos of my front and rear rotors:

 

I have been very easy on the brakes for 41K Mile:

 

Front Rotor: Like New

20150916_130745_resized_zpswtkrvzlh.jpg

 

Rear Rotor: Looks like it is due for replacement

20150927_094411_resized_zps3ndtvk23.jpg

Rear Brake wear, plenty of pads left:

20150927_094429_resized_zpsbzvrj7ys.jpg

Once again there is no loss in braking performance but Dealer said I should change the rear brake pads and rotors.


Edited by cmax-nynj, 28 September 2015 - 08:57 PM.


#33 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 29 September 2015 - 09:22 AM

Those rear rotors look like they're in need of some use, not replacement!!

 

The pads? I can't tell a thing... no idea what I'm seeing, but judging by the rotors, I don't expect wear.

 

Have fun,

Frnak


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#34 ONLINE   ptjones

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Posted 29 September 2015 - 09:55 AM

I also agree, to me it looks like you could go another 100K mi., don't replace them.  I'm very worried about your dealer or at least the Service Writers of being dishonest about repairs.  I would look into another one. IMO ;)  Brakes should last the life of the car unless you are stopping to fast. Your brakes look to be in excellent shape. :)

 

Paul


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#35 OFFLINE   obob

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Posted 29 September 2015 - 12:15 PM

I also agree, to me it looks like you could go another 100K mi., don't replace them.  I'm very worried about your dealer or at least the Service Writers of being dishonest about repairs.  I would look into another one. IMO ;)  Brakes should last the life of the car unless you are stopping to fast. Your brakes look to be in excellent shape. :)

 

Paul

 

I agree with this agreement a lot !


Edited by obob, 29 September 2015 - 06:52 PM.

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#36 OFFLINE   SnowStorm

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Posted 29 September 2015 - 05:52 PM

Looks virtually identical to mine (at 77k miles) - also how they looked at maybe 20k.  If you replace them, they will probably look the same in another 10k.


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#37 OFFLINE   scottwood2

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Posted 30 September 2015 - 10:42 AM

Generally there are  factors to brakes.  1) The pads wear thin.  At that time the pads are replaced as well as the rotor either machined or replaced.  Today most rotors are just replaced.  2) The rotors are too thin.  They have a minimum spec as to how thick they are.  If they are too thin (below the spec) then they are replaced.  I have never seen rotors replaced before the pads wear out unless you have:  3) Rotor warped.  Something is hanging up and causes the rotor to overheat and warp.  The pedal will pulsate when you apply the brake if you have a warped rotor.  

 

Grooves in rotors are normal.   Now if your pads wear out and you have metal to metal contact then those grooves are a different story.  Those groves will generally be deeper and again below the minimum thickness spec of the rotor. 

 

I would ask why they want to replace the rotors?  Hope that helps


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#38 OFFLINE   cmax-nynj

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Posted 30 September 2015 - 11:34 AM

Dealer told me my rear rotors are done. They didn't even take out the wheels to measure the thickness of the rotors.   I'll probably never go back there again.



#39 OFFLINE   obob

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Posted 30 September 2015 - 12:22 PM

My Dad used to own a garage.  He would call work like brakes a gravy job.  I suspect that the mechanics and service agents at a dealer get commission.  So putting a little scare in somebody makes them money.  In some respects, the rotors being scored gives an excuse for a gravy job.

 

He personally did not sell brakes to people that did not need them, but he did mention that the brakes are getting thin and might need to be replaced next time.  But there was always the risk that if he did not do the brake job, some other less discretionary mechanic would before the next inspection (and possible other stuff that person did not need) and he would lose the gravy job.

 

It creates a challenge for me going to a dealer and being treated as a stupid person.  In some respects I am and in some respects I am not.

 

Being on this forum raises my IQ so to speak giving dealers less of an avenue of abuse.


Edited by obob, 30 September 2015 - 12:48 PM.

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#40 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 01 October 2015 - 11:11 AM

In my opinion, any car service organization will treat brakes like a lawsuit waiting to happen. If they replace one part, they replace them all, regardless of condition, so you leave with "showroom-new" brakes.

 

I tend to do my own brakes, once I found out how easy it really was, and got a couple tools (brake fluid reservoir cap with a Schrader valve makes brake bleeding a cinch!). It was real helpful when I was autocrossing; BMW wanted new fluid every year, and the track events wanted clear fluid at every event. That said, I also recognize when I'm over my head, and need a pro (as I'm not one).

 

HAve fun,

Frank


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