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Oil Changes


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127 replies to this topic

#41 OFFLINE   Bob999

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 09:36 PM

So, is it true that the only Ford certified synthetics are Mobil 1 and Amsoil?

 

According to the EPA mileage chart the motor oil specified is 5W20, GF-5.  There are a several oils on the market that meet that specification, including at least one non-synthetic oils.

 

The following was posted at www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

"The new API SN/GF-5 5W20 motor oil now specs WSS-M2C945-A under Ford's nomenclature."

 

So I think the answer to your question is "NO"--I don't think Ford "certifies" any oils and I think there are many oils that satisfy the Ford specification--not just Mobil 1 and Amsoil.


Edited by Bob999, 22 December 2012 - 09:37 PM.








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#42 OFFLINE   robodog61

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 09:24 AM

Thank you.  So, I have to look for API service SN/GF-5 and that is good enough?



#43 OFFLINE   Bob999

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 11:11 AM

Thank you.  So, I have to look for API service SN/GF-5 and that is good enough?

That is my understanding--provided it is 5W20.


Edited by Bob999, 23 December 2012 - 11:13 AM.


#44 OFFLINE   robodog61

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Posted 24 December 2012 - 06:55 AM

Thanks for all the info.  The Shell Formula oil I bought is GF-5 and mentions Fords



#45 OFFLINE   Arthur

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Posted 24 December 2012 - 01:28 PM

So, is it true that the only Ford certified synthetics are Mobil 1 and Amsoil?


Any oil that is API certified is ok with Ford, or any other manufacture, it's your choice which one to use. I have used synthetics for so many years, I will continue, it is great in the winter, as it does not thicken as it gets used, engines turn over like in the summer, it is not more expensive, because you can use it for more miles, usually bring the cost to under what you pay for cheap oil. I change the filter at the regular recommended mileage. Most people do not use synthetics, but I guess a lot of the 'new' cars are coming from the manufacture with synthetic in the engines.

#46 OFFLINE   robodog61

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Posted 24 December 2012 - 03:29 PM

I agree.  I have been using Walmart synthetic for a while in my Prius and have been changing at 5000 miles.  I just upped the interval to 6500 miles and intent to go to 7500 miles.  I just installed the Fumoto oil drain valve as well and it should make it easier to change.



#47 OFFLINE   valkraider

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Posted 24 December 2012 - 04:42 PM

Every vehicle and motorcycle forum on the planet has this thread, and the debate never ends.
  • HannahWCU and wab like this

#48 OFFLINE   Seymour_Bears

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 07:27 AM

Did my first oil change yesterday; pretty routine.  I used standard "rhino ramps" and a mechanic's creeper.  The extra step is the removal of the panel under the engine.  There's enough clearance for me, using the ramps and the creeper, to get under the car on my back, and undo the 8 or so fasteners which hold panel in place.  Replacing the panel was easy: lay on my back on the creeper, put the panel on my chest, slide under the car, and re-attach the fasteners (I started with the front fasteners).  The panel itself is light, so it's easy to move around.  I'm thin; there was enough clearance for me under the car, but if you're on the big side, removal and replacement of the panel will be harder.  The underside of the engine was spotless, due to the panel.  Before you start, make sure you have the proper tool for removal of the fasteners.

 

I used Mobil 1 5W20 and the recommended Ford filter.  It took more than the 4.5 quarts indicated in the owner's manual.  Clearance for the drain plug (15 mm) is limited, so I used a ratcheting flat wrench.  Placement of the oil filter allows for easy removal without much mess - after you loosen it a turn or so, some oil will spill out around the top, but it falls straight down into the drain pan.



#49 OFFLINE   C-MaxJaxon

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 08:01 AM

When I did the free oil change at the dealer, I checked the oil level the next morning before driving and it was below the max line by about a third of a quart. When I asked the dealer why it wasn't completely filled, they claimed that Ford recommends filling the oil to the mid point of the range on the dipstick. Not sure I believe them since it came from the factory filled to the max line, so I plan to always keep it there.



#50 OFFLINE   robodog61

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 09:41 AM

Hello Seymour Bears.  I purchased the oil drain valve from Fumoto.  Do you think it will fit based on the lack of clearance you described?



#51 OFFLINE   Seymour_Bears

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 04:42 PM

Sorry robodog, don't really know.  I couldn't get a standard 15 mm socket and ratchet wrench into the space, but I know if that would preclude the Fumoto drain valve from fitting there.



#52 OFFLINE   Tarheel

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 10:55 PM

When Synthetics first came out there was a big difference between them and Dino oil.  The motors were very hard on oils, air filtration was awful and a 3000 mile change out was needed to get 100,000 miles out of an engine before needing a rebuild.  These days there are very few Dino oils not up to the same specs as the synthetics and the current internal combustion motors are much, much easier on the oil than previous engines.  If you research it you will find that Dino/Syn blends give you the best of both worlds.  Dino oil has properties that are more beneficial than synthetics (film thickness at operating viscosity, polar attraction to ferrous metals, etc) and syns have better performance at high temperature.  As I said earlier in this thread, it's the additive pack the oil company uses which really makes a difference in the performance/longevity of the oils.  

 

Spend $25 on an oil analysis from Blackstone Labs at the point you think the oil should be changed.  The results will give you a measure of how much longer you have before you need to change it and how accurate the oil change monitor is.  



#53 OFFLINE   JohnTrigger

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 02:04 PM

Speaking from experience, when removing the panel underneath, 2 of the 8 screw/fasteners are longer than the other 6, so pay attention to where they come from.  I didn't realize this and just piled them in a pile, so upon reinstall, I just guessed the longer ones were for the holes in front of the tires, closest to the tires, but I am not sure 100%. 

 

Also, when putting the panel back up, it slides back about an inch or so and is held up by some tabs that are located on the car and engage the panel, about 6-8" infront of the back end of the panel on either side.  If you get the tabs lined up right, the panel's holes will be lined up with the car's holes all around, and the back end of the panel will be held tighter to the bottom of the car, and the front end will sag a little until you put the screw fasteners back on, but it will hang there handsfree.


Edited by JohnTrigger, 05 January 2013 - 02:06 PM.


#54 OFFLINE   Generalbeluga

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 10:41 PM

Let it go until your car tells you to change it.  Don't put synthetic oil (Mobile 1) into it until 10,000 miles so the engine has plenty of time to break in.  If you do ti too early, it will never break in properly and may develop high oil usage problems in the future.  I plan on changing it to Mobile 1 at my first oil change somewhere around 10K miles.  



#55 OFFLINE   Seymour_Bears

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 08:06 AM

Let it go until your car tells you to change it.  Don't put synthetic oil (Mobile 1) into it until 10,000 miles so the engine has plenty of time to break in.  If you do ti too early, it will never break in properly and may develop high oil usage problems in the future.  I plan on changing it to Mobile 1 at my first oil change somewhere around 10K miles.  

Interesting - I hadn't heard this before.  I'll have to do some research.  The Mobil 1 website does claim that several manufacturers (Porsche, Corvette, Aston Martin, Bentley, McLaren, AMG, etc.) use Mobil 1 as a factory fill in their engines.



#56 OFFLINE   JAZ

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 08:18 AM

From the Mobil 1 website:

One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.

Additionally, why no mention of Mobil 1 0w-20?  I've used it for years and over hundreds of thousand of miles in 4 and 6 cylinder engines with no issues, including annual trips to Houston with its Hades-like temperatures.



#57 OFFLINE   C-MaxJaxon

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 08:29 AM

The C-Max comes from the factory with synthetic blend oil and is just normal oil, not a special break-in type.

 

I wouldn't risk putting lower weight oil than Ford recommends. The 0W would only be thinner when the engine is cold, so it should have minimal benefit.



#58 OFFLINE   JAZ

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 08:56 AM

The 0W would only be thinner when the engine is cold, so it should have minimal benefit.

Exactly:  it would slightly mitigate the mpg loss at cold temps (1 or 2% perhaps) for those squeezing the last mpg out of the tank.  BTW, I've used the 0w-20 only in engines that specified 5w-20 weight oil.  Mobil says the 0w-20 is suitable in such applications, but I concur on following Ford recommendation.



#59 OFFLINE   Generalbeluga

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 02:08 PM

"One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil."

 

I agree that most, if not all, new engines are broken in at the factory but, that is done on an engine rack and not in real world driving conditions with stop & go and FWY driving under load conditions.  Therefore, I have always given a new engine about 10K miles of real world driving before switching to full synthetic Mobile 1, 5-20 oil.   Beside, I would expect Mobil to encourage use of their products as soon as possible; after all, they are in business to make money!  I see no down side to waiting for 10K miles and a possible down side if you don't, so I choose to wait.  Some choose to change oil at ridiculously low mileage intervals, 3K of 5K, which we all know is not necessary with today's engines and oil technology.  I typically follow the manufacturer's/car's computer recommendations.  By doing so, I save money, the environment and can afford to pay to have someone else crawl under my car and change the oil!  At my age, it is not fun any more and I always tear up my hands.  



#60 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 10:36 AM

Does anyone know how to reset oil change message?








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