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How to Improve Winter MPG's

winter mpgs

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89 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 24 October 2015 - 06:03 PM

Look at next Post


Edited by ptjones, 25 October 2015 - 10:52 AM.

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#2 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 09:56 AM

Now that temperatures are going down for Newbies you may have noticed your MPG's go down also.  You can expect 2 MPG drop for each 10*F drop in temperature.  So a temp drop from 70*F to 40*F would be a drop of 6 mpg.

 

Here is what you can do to to get some of that back without spending a lot of money.

 

1. Use some kind of Grill blocking method, Grill Covers, foam insulation or tape. Center Grill opening should be covered all year around, I have been using Grill Covers for three years/ 110K mi. now.  I only remove the lower Grill Cover when going on long uphill grades.            Worth 2-4 mpg's

tape2
 Grill Cover using Clear Packing Tape 
                 
C Max Grill Cover Installation Instructions 11 13 Page 3 Of 4
 Grill Cover using Velcro attachments LEXAN Plastic

 

2. Use 50 PSI in your tires, not much difference in ride quality, but it improves mpg's and your tires wear great. I got 64k mi. on first set and looks like I will get around 70K on second set. Worth up to 1mpg.

 

3.  Oil Pan Heater speeds up ICE heating and heat available for the car heater. The only Oil Pan Heater I could find small enough to fit the bottom of oil pan was a Wolverine Model 9 Oil Pan Heater which you can get on eBay.  I'm going to put another one on the back of block to get  the total wattage to 250 Watts, but enough to raise WT by 40-50*F.  Worth about 2-5 mpg on short trips and you have heat almost immediately. YA! 

Oil Pan Heater
Model 9 OPH

 

 

4. Park facing the Sun which will keep ICE and inside of car warmer. If you can use seat warmers instead of heater.  Worth 1-4 mpg.  Make trips during the warmest time of the day.  These are kind of obvious ideas, but they are worth mentioning. 

 

5.  Premium Gas is worth 2 mpg in my experience, but may not be worth the additional cost. That is what I use.  :)

 

Note: 1. The first time you start the car, cold or hot, HVB charged or not, ICE will start running when you hit 35mph to lubricate Transmission. 

          2. ICE wants to get to 128*F before it will operate normally. With ICE block heater and oil pan heater I have been able to get to this temperature and be in normal mode almost from the start.  I think it is more efficient to use the EV to get to speed so when ICE comes on it is making significant power to move car and charge HVB. :)

          3. When temps drop below 70*F it's time to block the top grill to keep the ICE compartment warmer.  This can be done as simple as using clear packing tape from hood down to bottom of top grill or use LEXAN shett cut to fit the opening.

Paul

PS I will add more as I think of them. 

 

 


Edited by ptjones, 24 October 2016 - 09:33 AM.

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#3 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 09:59 AM

If temps go below 40*F block off upper grill to conserve as much heat as possible.

tape3
 
It has been brought to my attention I should comment about Grill Covers and possible Transmission failure. 

AS far as I know I had the highest mileage CMAX to have Trans fail, 98K mi.( Don't know about Taxi Cabs), but the only one with Grill Covers.  You could say Grill Covers made my Trans last longer, I'm not going to say that for sure, but it does make you wonder.  With the info we have now it appears Trans aren't failing because of temperature, Hybridbear has gotten to 220*F with his FFNRG and the highest I ever saw was 194*F when it was going bad at 98K mi. Now 189*F is the highest  I have seen with New Trans.  FORD said that the Trans puts out a code at 301*F, I think the ICE compartment would need to be on fire to get that hot.

 

 There seems to be a connection between ICE WT temps and TFT because the Trans is bolted to ICE and heat transfers from ICE to Trans. Trans Cooler doesn't get much cool air to it until 215*F when the shutters open which rarely happens. The long and short of it is FORD has a bearing problem with some Transmissions and it is showing up with CMAX//FFH that are driven mostly on the HWY.  Temperature change going up over time is a indicator of the possibility that the Trans is going to fail.  I do think going to Full Synthetic Fluid is a good idea and hope to do it soon.

 

I think that covers everything I know on Trans Failures. :)

 

Paul

 

:)  Paul

Edited by ptjones, 25 October 2015 - 01:28 PM.


#4 OFFLINE   wab

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 11:18 AM

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#5 OFFLINE   obob

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 12:01 AM

Additional winder ideas.

 

use EV+ to lower the battery at the end of a trip.  In the cold, the engine will run to warm up, so the more battery to charge the better, for otherwise the engine will just be running to warm up.

 

 

 

Just my sense but in the cold, when first starting out, use the ICE as gently as possible for when cold, the engine very inefficiently injects gas in the cylinders to get the power it needs.  Anyone else have this understanding ?


Edited by obob, 27 October 2015 - 11:00 PM.

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#6 OFFLINE   scottwood2

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 08:05 AM

Additional winder ideas.

 

use EV+ to lower the battery at the end of a trip.  In the cold the engine will run to warm up so the more battery to charge the better for otherwise the engine will just be running to warm up.

 

 

 

Just my sense but in the cold, when first starting out, use the ICE as gently as possible for when cold the engine very inefficiently injects gas in the cylinders to get the power it needs.  Anyone else have this understanding ?

Good tips

 

I also try to drain the battery before parking it if I can. 

 

I also try to keep the RPM down when it is cold.  When the ICE first comes on it will not charge the battery until it warms up a little and the load from acceleration is lower.  I will try to let up on the accelerator to get it to start charging then accelerate a little.  Too much and it will stop charging again until it warms up more.   I also try to keep the RPM around 2000 in the morning.   Takes longer to charge and accelerate but it also warms up ICE better.   I leave for work very early so I am usually the only car on the road.  I also try to keep the cabin heat off and just use the seat heaters until the engine temp comes up.  Not sure if this really saves much but it helps some. 



#7 OFFLINE   hybridbear

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 09:13 AM

Just my sense but in the cold, when first starting out, use the ICE as gently as possible for when cold the engine very inefficiently injects gas in the cylinders to get the power it needs.  Anyone else have this understanding ?

You can see this on the Engage screen. The car uses the HVB to drive, while idling the ICE. Check out the warm up stages thread. There are only a few details in the C-Max Forum thread. Click over to the linked FFH Forum thread for lots more info.

 

This is stage S1a. It is desirable to avoid this stage. That thread explains how to get out of stage S1a.


Edited by hybridbear, 27 October 2015 - 09:25 AM.

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#8 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 02:17 PM

I use EV+  and it works for the house and work.  I also run HVB down getting there, I monitor SOC and about half of the time it is higher when I start the car in the morning.  The other half it is lower, alarming low sometimes, 29% and the ICE lurches when it starts immediately.  Something is obviously going on with the HVB to deplete the Battery down from 37% to 29%.  On the other end spectrum I came home from long trip on the FWY with 58% SOC and in the morning I had 80%(ScanGauge II), WOW! 

 

In the morning when I start out I EV as long as I can, the main purpose is to get your speed as high as you can before the ICE starts running.

 

Note: 1. The first time you start the car, cold or hot, HVB charged or not, ICE will start running when to hit 35mph to lubricate Transmission. 

          2. ICE wants to get to 128*F before it will operate normally. With ICE block heater and oil pan heater I have been able to get to this temperature and be in normal mode almost from the start.  I think it is more efficient to use the EV to get to speed so when ICE comes on when it is making significant power to move car and charge HVB. :)

 

Paul


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#9 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 14 November 2015 - 08:19 AM

Just a reminder to put Grill Covers on now that it is getting cold. High 30's this morning in Atlanta Area.  :)

 

Paul


Edited by ptjones, 14 November 2015 - 08:21 AM.


#10 OFFLINE   WNY

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Posted 14 November 2015 - 08:28 AM

I;'ve noticed the HV battery dropping on occasion at work after being parked, it would be 1/3-1/2 full when I park it and it would at very lower end when I leave and the ICE starts right away to charge. other times, it stays charged where I left it. 

We had snow last night, but supposed to be in the 60's up here this week. go figure! 


Edited by WNY, 14 November 2015 - 08:33 AM.


#11 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 20 December 2015 - 06:01 PM

I want to keep this thread active so new members can get quick info on what to do about  cold temps and dropping MPG's. :)

 

Paul



#12 OFFLINE   revanoff2

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Posted 21 December 2015 - 06:42 PM

I've been toying with adding the insulating foam just to experiment. I do a lot of freeway driving in my car, and have noticed that I'm now getting about 34mpg where I used to get 38-39mpg. I attribute this almost directly to the colder weather (plus rain/wind etc.)

 

I have almost 73k on mine now, and that being said, the car states a little over 20k has been on electric only power. This would mean the engine has approximately 53k on it. I know FORD says its a 100k mile spark plug change interval, but I'm not quite so convinced. I have noticed that my engine doesn't run as smooth as I expected it would. Now, that being said, I've been contemplating putting new plugs in it to see if that helps my MPG at all. Based on my calculations, when the ICE is running, I am getting approximately 23MPG... unless the SOC is very high. What are your thoughts on that? You also mention using premium grade fuel... whats the Octane for premium where you are?

 

I think I'll pop in at Home Depot on the way to my house after work and pick up some of the foam. Couldn't hurt to try right?

 

~Revanoff2~

 

 



#13 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 21 December 2015 - 07:03 PM

I've been toying with adding the insulating foam just to experiment. I do a lot of freeway driving in my car, and have noticed that I'm now getting about 34mpg where I used to get 38-39mpg. I attribute this almost directly to the colder weather (plus rain/wind etc.)

 

I have almost 73k on mine now, and that being said, the car states a little over 20k has been on electric only power. This would mean the engine has approximately 53k on it. I know FORD says its a 100k mile spark plug change interval, but I'm not quite so convinced. I have noticed that my engine doesn't run as smooth as I expected it would. Now, that being said, I've been contemplating putting new plugs in it to see if that helps my MPG at all. Based on my calculations, when the ICE is running, I am getting approximately 23MPG... unless the SOC is very high. What are your thoughts on that? You also mention using premium grade fuel... whats the Octane for premium where you are?

 

I think I'll pop in at Home Depot on the way to my house after work and pick up some of the foam. Couldn't hurt to try right?

 

~Revanoff2~

I would try a bottle of the NOS Octane Booster($10 at Walmart) with Premium (93 octane) Gas . I have about 60Kmi. on MADMAX ICE and I'm getting some of the best MPG's that I've ever gotten, still getting low 50's on a tank of gas.  Close off all the grills, if you are worried you can setup MyView for empowered and temp gauge on the right side to monitor it.  I think you will be impressed by the improvement. :)

 

Paul



#14 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 19 January 2016 - 06:59 PM

Well with temps from 30-45*F on this tank , with speeds 45-55mph and I'm getting 51mpg and climbing.  This shows what can be done when you all these tips on your car are used. :) 

 

Paul 



#15 OFFLINE   SnowStorm

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Posted 19 January 2016 - 08:19 PM

Some "short trip" experiences recently in the cold (at last):

  1. My wife filled up and then made a number of trips (about 8 miles one way) and had about 38 MPG after 30 or so miles.  (SS wasn't overly congratulatory.)
  2. Today made a shopping trip with a number of stops on each end and two 20+ mile runs (55 to 65 mph) in 22F temps.  Got mid 40s.
  3. Made a round-trip of 18 miles total in 20F temps (45 mph max) and got 52 MPG.  I had carefully returned the battery charge to the same level.  Car had been sitting outside for several hours after the previous trip so was, no doubt, still a bit warm.  Seat heat was used the whole time and moderate cabin most of the time (see below).

I'm convinced a big factor is managing that cabin heat!  You must keep it on Recirc and limit its use if the ICE isn't staying warm (a problem for city driving).  If Frank's "shivers/minute" meter stays on a solid Zero, your mileage may suffer!  I don't have grill covers yet but I'm sure they help.  Truly glad we have seat heat - now if only we could add heated floor mats, pedals and steering wheel....


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#16 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 20 January 2016 - 01:57 PM

Made trip to restaurant in town about 6 mi. 55-35mph, temps 46-49*F, SOC 50% and 42% at end,65.9mpg.   6 mi. trip from restaurant back to shop on FWY, OT 50*F, SOC 42% start and end, WT got upto 190*F with speed average 65mph and 46.7mpg.  Combining the two gets 56.3mpg! :yahoo:

 

Paul

12016fwy6mi


#17 OFFLINE   SnowStorm

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Posted 20 January 2016 - 04:50 PM

Please note that we can't average MPGs with the normal "average" equation of Avg=(A+B)/2.  We must use Avg=2*A*B/(A+B) or if you prefer, Avg=2/(1/A + 1/B).  (And, of course, the distances must be the same.)  Take an extreme example.  I can "coast" down a mountain and get 1000 MPG then go back up and get 20 MPG.  My average is certainly not 510 MPG!  It is, in fact, only 39.2 MPG.

The nice thing about using L/100km is that you can use the (A+B)/2 formula.


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#18 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 20 January 2016 - 05:26 PM

Please note that we can't average MPGs with the normal "average" equation of Avg=(A+B)/2.  We must use Avg=2*A*B/(A+B) or if you prefer, Avg=2/(1/A + 1/B).  (And, of course, the distances must be the same.)  Take an extreme example.  I can "coast" down a mountain and get 1000 MPG then go back up and get 20 MPG.  My average is certainly not 510 MPG!  It is, in fact, only 39.2 MPG.

The nice thing about using L/100km is that you can use the (A+B)/2 formula.

Using your formula Avg=2/(1/A+1/B) I come up with 54.6 mpg, still Great for 50*F. :yahoo:

 

Paul



#19 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 20 January 2016 - 05:48 PM

You guys are discussing arithmetic mean vs. geometric mean. This only works when comparing similar things, like "trips of equal length."

 

I just calculated my daily average mileage for different length trips.

- morning commute was 20.6 miles achieving 46.3 MPG.

- evening commute was 15.4 miles achieving 56.0 MPG.

 

Arithmetic average is 51.15

Geometric average is 50.869

True average is 50.000

 

I used 0.72 gal. to go 36 miles. That ratio is the true average mileage. The precision was serendipitous.

 

HAve fun,

Frank, who actually has fun with numbers. (Not so much flags.)


Edited by fbov, 20 January 2016 - 05:49 PM.

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#20 OFFLINE   stevedebi

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Posted 21 January 2016 - 04:44 PM

Please note that we can't average MPGs with the normal "average" equation of Avg=(A+B)/2.  We must use Avg=2*A*B/(A+B) or if you prefer, Avg=2/(1/A + 1/B).  (And, of course, the distances must be the same.)  Take an extreme example.  I can "coast" down a mountain and get 1000 MPG then go back up and get 20 MPG.  My average is certainly not 510 MPG!  It is, in fact, only 39.2 MPG.

The nice thing about using L/100km is that you can use the (A+B)/2 formula.

I'm not sure I understand why you need to do this. Just set the trip meter, and divide the number of miles by the gasoline used. Am I missing something?

 

It is more complex with our Energi models, where we have to account for the plug in energy.








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