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Almost bought a used 2013 C-Max SEL....But condensation in rear battery compartment??


kevbot13
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First post here, my wife and I checked out a used C-Max SEL today with about 36,000 Miles on it and when I was checking the rear battery compartment I noticed a very fair amount of condensation in the plastic bin, delamination occurring on the carpet cover and even surface rust on the bare metal behind the plastic battery compartment.  The dealer (Dodge, Jeep, Chrysler) had no idea what caused it. Was I right to walk away from this or is this a normal occurrence? I've attached pictures to provide a better idea.

 

If it isn't a big deal then I will call and jump on the car as it was a great deal! Let me know what you guys think, thanks.

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Thanks for the advice, what is the usual battery warranty period for the C-max? The dealer mentioned that it is 80K Miles but now I don't trust a word they told me.

The high voltage battery warranty is 8yrs/100,000 miles.

Like all automotive lead acid batteries the 12volt battery should be OK for 2 to maybe 5 years, unless in a SE cmax.

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I don't recall anyone having issues like in your pics. I think some have had rear window washer issues where fluid leaked.  

 

I wouldn't touch it as there obviously is an issue with the car.  At 36k miles the 3 year / 36k mile b2b warranty has expired.

 

Sorry, but there is not obviously an issue with the car.  Or to put it another way, the "issue" may be as trivial as somebody spilling something back there and leaving it wet.

 

Given that in the two years on this forum there has never been a serious issue with any kind of leaking or damp in the trunk, it may be leaky rubber seal or something fixable.  Worth getting the dealer to check out pehaps?

Edited by Adrian_L
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The high voltage battery warranty is 8yrs/100,000 miles.

Like all automotive lead acid batteries the 12volt battery should be OK for 2 to maybe 5 years, unless in a SE cmax.

That's better than I thought it would be...thanks

 

 

Sorry, but there is not obviously an issue with the car.  Or to put it another way, the "issue" may be as trivial as somebody spilling something back there and leaving it wet.

 

Given that in the two years on this forum there has never been a serious issue with any kind of leaking or damp in the trunk, it may be leaky rubber seal or something fixable.  Worth getting the dealer to check out pehaps?

It seems like condensation came out of the funnel hole in the lower left corner. Was it potentially overfilled? I guess first thing I should do is find out what that funnel hole is even for.

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That's better than I thought it would be...thanks

 

 

It seems like condensation came out of the funnel hole in the lower left corner. Was it potentially overfilled? I guess first thing I should do is find out what that funnel hole is even for.

The funnel hole should have a funnel in it which is used to put gas in the car if not at a pump with a nozzle (emergency situations if you run out of gas).

 

Water is not normal in a car.  Why speculate how and why it got there?  Why buy a car with a potential leak that possibly can't be found by a dealer. What else did the water touch /condensation settle on  

 

It's not fun sopping up water and drying parts every so often if there is a body leak.  I had a body leak in a Volvo that the dealer couldn't find after many attempts.  After 2 years and no resolution I sold the car,

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The funnel hole should have a funnel in it which is used to put gas in the car if not at a pump with a nozzle (emergency situations if you run out of gas).

 

Water is not normal in a car.  Why speculate how and why it got there?  Why buy a car with a potential leak that possibly can't be found by a dealer. What else did the water touch /condensation settle on  

 

It's not fun sopping up water and drying parts every so often if there is a body leak.  I had a body leak in a Volvo that the dealer couldn't find after many attempts.  After 2 years and no resolution I sold the car,

The condensation was only noticeable underneath the trunk mat, it did not appear as if it leaked down through it. As the pictures show the condensation was focused around that funnel hole and not the recess next to it (which is where I imagine the water would be more likely to pool up).

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I woudl think that when a dealer preps a used car.  they would do a liquid extraction carpet cleaning.  and given the temps  hot in the afternoon and cool at night... could explain the condensation.

+1

 

In an enclosed volume, water vapor will always start condensing on the coldest thing it can find. Clean the carpets, then park it in partial shade facing South and this is the kind of place that would get cold enough first. The one good thing is the rust looks new, but that may mean the car's been on their lot a long time (sitting sealed after carpet wash).

 

This may not be reason to walk away... but be sure there's some sort of short term warranty, in case it doesn't go away with normal use.

 

HAve fun,

Frank

Edited by fbov
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Drove over 2 hours to go to the dealer after having them tell me in writing that that they will meet my price and all I need to do is sign...turns out that was just to get me in the door so they can play dumb about the deal. Turns out the cliche car salesman techniques aren't only a thing of TV and movies. Oh well, I will continue searching for my 2013 C-max SEL, I know it is out there somewhere!

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Kev,

 

whenI was looking to replace my Prius  I drove from south of Dc to north of B-more to look at at Prius v.

 

they did the whole  low price thing to get me there,  and then when i was ready to deal,  the add-ons started popping up.  car went from 18,999 to over 25K...and i was going to do the taxes and tags my self.

 

 

dealers...  ugh.

 

i will say that I had a good experience with my chevy dealership in dealing with my wifes saturn Vue hybrid.    took it in for what i thought was a transmission noise.  ended up being just low on oil.  did an oil change.  they could have lied through their teeth and taken me to the cleaners.  So every now and again there are some honest ones out there...

 

there are a few out there  and with fuel prices so low  you could probably make some deals..

https://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchresults.action/?stkTypId=28881&tracktype=usedcc&mkId=20015&AmbMkId=20015&AmbMkNm=Ford&make=Ford&AmbMdId=49085&AmbMdNm=C-Max%20Hybrid&model=C-Max%20Hybrid&mdId=49085&rd=150&zc=22182&searchSource=QUICK_FORM

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Drove over 2 hours to go to the dealer after having them tell me in writing that that they will meet my price and all I need to do is sign...turns out that was just to get me in the door so they can play dumb about the deal. Turns out the cliche car salesman techniques aren't only a thing of TV and movies. Oh well, I will continue searching for my 2013 C-max SEL, I know it is out there somewhere!

 

Don't get me started.  The sleaze-balls in my (ex) dealership make Donald Trump look like Pope Francis.  BUT.......they had rock bottom prices and gave me $7,000 for an Audi A6 with a........well.....less than perfect engine.

 

When we told the sales manager we wanted to "think about it" and come back later to sign, he freaks out and says "I thought we were doing a deal!  We haven't sold a single car today!!!" (this was Saturday around 2)     The next day we go back and close, and the insurance guy tells us "yesterday was crazy---we sold a dozen cars!" 

 

Always a good idea to check out google reviews.  Just like everything else in life---dentists, teachers, psychiatrists, wives----there are good ones and bad.

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I'm not in the market to buy a second C-MAX just yet, but a website I've visited a lot recently is cargurus.com.  

The site provides a relative price guide, though the criteria they use for "High Price", "Great Deal", "Fair Deal" etc. is based on their calculation of a fair market price, and prices are always open to debate.

 

Most helpfully, the site shows the number of days the car has been listed online, and any price changes recorded during that time. Most vehicles listed also have direct links to the dealer selling the car, so you can verify details without use of their website.

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I'm not in the market to buy a second C-MAX just yet, but a website I've visited a lot recently is cargurus.com.  

The site provides a relative price guide, though the criteria they use for "High Price", "Great Deal", "Fair Deal" etc. is based on their calculation of a fair market price, and prices are always open to debate.

 

Most helpfully, the site shows the number of days the car has been listed online, and any price changes recorded during that time. Most vehicles listed also have direct links to the dealer selling the car, so you can verify details without use of their website.

 

Texas has to be one of the most consumer unfriendly states. I liked Cargurus.com but, in Texas, they aren't allowed to show price changes on their site, due to Texas laws. It still helps, since it shows how long the car has been listed online and they do show if there has been a price has changed (just not how much it changed). So much in Texas seems to be rigged against the car purchaser -- from being forced to work with a dealership (Tesla isn't allowed to be sold since they don't have a dealer network), basically allowing dealerships to lie in advertising by not disclosing "mandatory dealer add-ons" and even some false claims. As one example, I had a dealer I had bought a car from claim they'd give 20% over Blue book value for my used car; when I talked to them about it, they wouldn't even give me the Bluebook value (and less than a dealer was offering to buy it outright, not as part of a trade), not even close to the 20%. I found out that isn't the first time they've sent out that ad, but that they've been doing it for years.

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Raad,

 

the dealers around here do the 20% above KBB for your trade.  what they don't tell you., but its in the fine print and the fast spoken legalease.  its 20% above KBB  fair, wholesale value. 

 

many folks go into a dealership thinking they'll get retail value for their car on a trade in. And then get pissed when the dealer throws the wholesale number at them.

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Kev,

 

whenI was looking to replace my Prius  I drove from south of Dc to north of B-more to look at at Prius v.

 

they did the whole  low price thing to get me there,  and then when i was ready to deal,  the add-ons started popping up.  car went from 18,999 to over 25K...and i was going to do the taxes and tags my self.

 

 

dealers...  ugh.

 

i will say that I had a good experience with my chevy dealership in dealing with my wifes saturn Vue hybrid.    took it in for what i thought was a transmission noise.  ended up being just low on oil.  did an oil change.  they could have lied through their teeth and taken me to the cleaners.  So every now and again there are some honest ones out there...

 

there are a few out there  and with fuel prices so low  you could probably make some deals..

https://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchresults.action/?stkTypId=28881&tracktype=usedcc&mkId=20015&AmbMkId=20015&AmbMkNm=Ford&make=Ford&AmbMdId=49085&AmbMdNm=C-Max%20Hybrid&model=C-Max%20Hybrid&mdId=49085&rd=150&zc=22182&searchSource=QUICK_FORM

That's funny because I live north of B-more (Towson) and drove to Manassas, VA for the "deal". I guess it isn't a one way thing.

 

I'm not in the market to buy a second C-MAX just yet, but a website I've visited a lot recently is cargurus.com.  

The site provides a relative price guide, though the criteria they use for "High Price", "Great Deal", "Fair Deal" etc. is based on their calculation of a fair market price, and prices are always open to debate.

 

Most helpfully, the site shows the number of days the car has been listed online, and any price changes recorded during that time. Most vehicles listed also have direct links to the dealer selling the car, so you can verify details without use of their website.

 

Cargurus is how I found the car actually, I prefer it over Autotrader, cars.com or carfax as the interface is straightforward and easy to understand.

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Have you thought about buying "new"? I don't know what they're running on 2015s but last year I got a heck of a deal with the rebate and zero percent financing.

I'd rather have someone else take the majority of the devaluation for me haha. What kind of deal can you get with the rebate (and what rebate are we talking about?)?

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Raad,

 

the dealers around here do the 20% above KBB for your trade.  what they don't tell you., but its in the fine print and the fast spoken legalease.  its 20% above KBB  fair, wholesale value. 

 

many folks go into a dealership thinking they'll get retail value for their car on a trade in. And then get pissed when the dealer throws the wholesale number at them.

 

Absolutely nothing like that in their fine print but that does sound like the type of thing they'd do. 

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Let me ask you guys a question.  Every bought a used car from a private individual?  Did you calculate the fair, honest price of the car and offer the seller that amount, being careful not to give him less than the true, retail value?  Even if he was asking less?

 

Or did you try to buy the car for as little money as possible?  

I thought so. 

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Let me ask you guys a question.  Every bought a used car from a private individual?  Did you calculate the fair, honest price of the car and offer the seller that amount, being careful not to give him less than the true, retail value?  Even if he was asking less?

 

Or did you try to buy the car for as little money as possible?  

 

I thought so. 

 

When you sell a car, do you lure people in with low prices but then refuse to sell at that price, saying you added $2000 in improvements that actually only cost you $100?

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When you sell a car, do you lure people in with low prices but then refuse to sell at that price, saying you added $2000 in improvements that actually only cost you $100?

Well dealers usually call it a pinstripe, floor mats, undercoating, paint protection, fabric protection, or a spoiler.

 

Other common descriptions. Delivery fees, dealer prep, or processing fees.

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