ptjones Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 Has anyone found inexpensive solid replacement lug nuts for CMAX OEM wheels? The ones I've seen say not for oem wheels. :headscratch: Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obob Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 (edited) I personally have not bought these. All three claim to be genuine Ford parts. I am pretty sure this is the right part number for it was confirmed on two websites however not 100% The website says this fits the C-Maxhttps://www.amazon.com/Ford-CV6Z-1012-D-Wheel-Lug-Nut/dp/B00M375OI6 This is the same part number but the website says it does not fit. (It is less than half the price.)https://www.amazon.com/Ford-CV6Z-1012-C-Wheel-Lug-Nut/dp/B00M375MBK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BFCR3F8ZH0H0AMVVT266 From ebay but only three availablehttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ford-Wheel-Nut-CV6Z-1012-D/302454871213?epid=1317839457&hash=item466bb714ad:g:RtQAAOSw42dZKuSG&vxp=mtr Edited November 1, 2017 by obob ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted November 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 The correct Part # is CV6Z-1012-D but I don't want to spend $120 for 20 lug nuts and have them screwed up again. :sad: Here is a eBay Motors listing https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Chrome-Bulge-Acorn-Lug-Nuts-M12x1-5-Closed-End-Fits-Honda-Acura-Ford-US/302055628194?hash=item4653eb1da2:g:06EAAOSwq1JZIoJy&vxp=mtr and they are only $12 for 20 lug nuts. :headscratch: Paul Lacienega 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obob Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 Why are you in need of another set of lugs nuts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowStorm Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 The correct Part # is CV6Z-1012-D but I don't want to spend $120 for 20 lug nuts and have them screwed up again. :sad: Here is a eBay Motors listing https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Chrome-Bulge-Acorn-Lug-Nuts-M12x1-5-Closed-End-Fits-Honda-Acura-Ford-US/302055628194?hash=item4653eb1da2:g:06EAAOSwq1JZIoJy&vxp=mtr and they are only $12 for 20 lug nuts. :headscratch: PaulExcept that the "Compatibility" box says they are not compatible with the C-Max! Does anyone know the stud tread size, bevel angle and all that stuff? Why are you in need of another set of lugs nuts ?Possibly, like mine after many tire rotations, you can't get a standard socket on them anymore! Those thin metal sleeves deform or swell or something. I did find a 6 point socket that has the corners back cut a bit and it goes on, but just barely. Not much point in carrying a spare tire if you can't get a socket on the lug nuts! ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted November 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 I have to hammer the socket on to get it to work. Then it is a real pain getting them off. the size is 12mm x 1.5 pitch and 60 degree angle. still waiting on eBay supplier to explain why won't work. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obob Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 I have to hammer the socket on to get it to work. Then it is a real pain getting them off. the size is 12mm x 1.5 pitch and 60 degree angle. still waiting on eBay supplier to explain why won't work. Paul One idea I had is try to locate where the sticking is taking place, then wire wheel or even better buffing wheel them up with a focus on that location. My guess is that the metal gets weathered and increases the stick. A couple other ideas which you probably know but ... A 3/4 inch socket is 19.05 mm so maybe will give you a slight advantage. Getting the nut out of the socket will be easier if the nut is not taken completely off, perhaps with some very gently tapping. I tried both a 3/4 and 19mm socket and some of my lug nuts also stick. I had been using a lug wrench which for some reason wasn't so much a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted November 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 One idea I had is try to locate where the sticking is taking place, then wire wheel or even better buffing wheel them up with a focus on that location. My guess is that the metal gets weathered and increases the stick. A couple other ideas which you probably know but ... A 3/4 inch socket is 19.05 mm so maybe will give you a slight advantage. Getting the nut out of the socket will be easier if the nut is not taken completely off, perhaps with some very gently tapping. I tried both a 3/4 and 19mm socket and some of my lug nuts also stick. I had been using a lug wrench which for some reason wasn't so much a problem.I have using a 3/4" socket, I'm worried that the aluminum covers will break and then I'll really have problem. My aluminum caps are lose and it is just a matter of time before they fail. :sad: Hope the solid ones will work. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 (edited) Possibly, like mine after many tire rotations, you can't get a standard socket on them anymore! Those thin metal sleeves deform or swell or something. I did find a 6 point socket that has the corners back cut a bit and it goes on, but just barely. ...My lug nuts are solid steel also clad; the snows are on steel wheels that came with their own lug nuts. I get to have both sets in my hands at once; no metal sleeves, just like the BMW. I am curious what happened that yours are deformed. I've used a Volvo lug wrench for decades; too much slop to notice this kind of thing. Let me know; I think I can scare up a second one. Does (Volvo) spark plugs on the other end. Have fun,Frank Edited November 6, 2017 by fbov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowStorm Posted November 5, 2017 Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 How did they get deformed? In the pictures shown here you can see the "undercut" (or whatever it is called) in the corners of the 6 point socket. Note (2) on that site under "Expert advice" says: "A six-point socket is designed to contact the head of a fastener well away from the corners so contact is made on the thickest part of the socket and the flattest part of the fastener. This dramatically reduces the likelihood of slippage and rounding over the corners." Impact sockets are like the 6 point one shown. On my car, you can clearly see marks where the socket (at my tire dealer) has been contacting the nut - they are well back from the corners. You can also feel the bulging on the very corners of the nuts. So, I'm quite certain that the repeated loosening and tightening is deforming the metal covers. But as I said, the 6 point (1/2" drive) socket I bought recently goes on fine. A 12 point socket won't go on some of the nuts at all - others with difficulty. Before buying 20 new lug nuts you might want to try spending a few bucks on a 6 point socket. Worked for me. ptjones 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted November 5, 2017 Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 IMO, you do not want to use an "oversize" socket on a nut as it will round the corners because the area of contact of the socket with the nut will be smaller and more towards the edge of the nut. My guess is that with our clad lugnut, it is likely that the clading will deform more using an oversize socket or a 12 point socket than the proper impact socket. My impact socket set is over 25 years old and has the rounded interior corners like in SS's link above. Like SS says when using the proper socket you can see the impact area on the nut is well back from the corner whether its a solid or clad lugnut. On last thought and that is I would expect the life of our clad lugnut should be at least 50 cycles and likely much more as lugnuts are not normally considered a consummable (assuming use of proper tools and applying spec. torque). At a 5k tire rotation schedule, one would expect maybe 20 cycles per 100 k miles. obob and ptjones 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obob Posted November 5, 2017 Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 Video on removing the cap when it is stripped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obob Posted November 5, 2017 Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 IMO, you do not want to use an "oversize" socket on a nut as it will round the corners because the area of contact of the socket with the nut will be smaller and more towards the edge of the nut. My guess is that with our clad lugnut, it is likely that the clading will deform more using an oversize socket or a 12 point socket than the proper impact socket. My impact socket set is over 25 years old and has the rounded interior corners like in SS's link above. Like SS says when using the proper socket you can see the impact area on the nut is well back from the corner whether its a solid or clad lugnut. On last thought and that is I would expect the life of our clad lugnut should be at least 50 cycles and likely much more as lugnuts are not normally considered a consummable (assuming use of proper tools and applying spec. torque). At a 5k tire rotation schedule, one would expect maybe 20 cycles per 100 k miles. Before this thread I wasn't all that careful removing the lugs and putting them back on. I was treating them like lug nuts of a previous steel era. I am planning on being more caring. I kind of like the way my last car did aluminum wheels - had steel lugs with a small plastic cap - so if one did loosen out it would possibly stay in the compartment and make a horrible noise that would alert me, and also might lower drag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted November 5, 2017 Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 Ford, "we've had a problem". https://blog.caranddriver.com/swollen-lug-nuts-are-costing-ford-drivers-time-and-money-lawsuit-claims/ obob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted November 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 I heard back from eBay supplier and here is the lug nuts they recommend:https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Black-Bulge-Acorn-12x1-5-Lug-Nuts-Cone-Seat-fits-Chevrolet-Corvette-Impala/292009464403?epid=519256434&hash=item43fd1ed253:g:AAUAAOSw241YXg-O&vxp=mtr These are the ones I want to buy:https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Chrome-Bulge-Acorn-Lug-Nuts-M12x1-5-Closed-End-Fits-Honda-Acura-Ford-US/302055628194?hash=item4653eb1da2:g:06EAAOSwq1JZIoJy&vxp=mtr Ford, "we've had a problem". https://blog.caranddriver.com/swollen-lug-nuts-are-costing-ford-drivers-time-and-money-lawsuit-claims/That's my problem. :sad: Some how they must be cheaper to make. Paul obob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted November 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2017 Well I went ahead and ordered the silver lug bolts and will see how they work in a few days. :) The worst that can happen is I'm out $12. Paul obob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted November 6, 2017 Report Share Posted November 6, 2017 (edited) These have all the hallmarks of an incompetent wheel man with an impact wrench. All show signs of improper socket seating (damage well above the flange) and excess torque (dishing on flats), consistent with incompetence. Mine are nearly perfect. I use leverage if things are tight, and my mechanic uses a torque stick on his impact wrench. If you don't see one of these on his impact wrench, invest in extra lug nuts, because he's not a qualified wheel man. Have fun,Frank PS I have a second set of lug nuts. They are not clad, and the chrome is rusting through. Edited November 6, 2017 by fbov ptjones and obob 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obob Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 (edited) I heard back from eBay supplier and here is the lug nuts they recommend:https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Black-Bulge-Acorn-12x1-5-Lug-Nuts-Cone-Seat-fits-Chevrolet-Corvette-Impala/292009464403?epid=519256434&hash=item43fd1ed253:g:AAUAAOSw241YXg-O&vxp=mtr These are the ones I want to buy:https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Chrome-Bulge-Acorn-Lug-Nuts-M12x1-5-Closed-End-Fits-Honda-Acura-Ford-US/302055628194?hash=item4653eb1da2:g:06EAAOSwq1JZIoJy&vxp=mtr Did they say why they recommend the black ones rather than the chrome ones ? Edited November 7, 2017 by obob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted November 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 Did they say why they recommend the black ones rather than the chrome ones ?They didn't say so I don't get it. :headscratch: To me the only important things are 12mm x 1.5 pitch and 60 degree angle. Paul obob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbov Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 That looks exactly like the lug nuts that came with the steel wheels. If so, they're 1-piece, and will rust. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted November 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 I can live with rust which will take awhile vs not being able to get my socket on the lug. :sad: I could afford to put new lugs on every year for ten years compared to replacing the FORD ones once. :drop: Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptjones Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 Got my new lug nuts and they seem to work great. Picture with new and old for comparison. :) Lacienega 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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