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2013 C-Max completely dead


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22 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Taiwwa

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Posted 27 March 2018 - 12:39 PM

One morning it just wouldn't work at all. 

 

Nothing lights up. I have gotten to the battery in the rear of the vehicle and attached a charger to it. the charger says that it is fully charged.

 

Still nothing. 

 

Any ideas? This is not good...









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#2 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 27 March 2018 - 01:25 PM

Sounds like the 12v has got a bad connection, try jumping from the two terminals under the hood.  I think there are other threads on how to jump the battery.

 

Paul



#3 OFFLINE   Taiwwa

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Posted 27 March 2018 - 04:45 PM

Sounds like the 12v has got a bad connection, try jumping from the two terminals under the hood.  I think there are other threads on how to jump the battery.

 

Paul

 

Are there two batteries in the car? One in the rear and one in the back, and of course the traction battery?

 

I got the rear one charged fully, as I said earlier, but the connection from the front seems to be taking its time.



#4 OFFLINE   SnowStorm

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Posted 27 March 2018 - 05:14 PM

Are there two batteries in the car? One in the rear and one in the back, and of course the traction battery?

 

I got the rear one charged fully, as I said earlier, but the connection from the front seems to be taking its time.

There is only one 12V battery - in the back.  It is connected to the posts under the hood, which is where you should charge or use a "jump starter".  Does your charger give a reading of Voltage or % Charged?


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#5 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 27 March 2018 - 05:36 PM

Are there two batteries in the car? One in the rear and one in the back, and of course the traction battery?

 

I got the rear one charged fully, as I said earlier, but the connection from the front seems to be taking its time.

If you had a voltmeter you could read voltage under the hood and also the power point between the front seats. Depending on what you get would help to determine  where the problem is.

 

Paul 


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#6 OFFLINE   Taiwwa

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Posted 27 March 2018 - 07:47 PM

Well, one of the chargers indicated that the battery was full after a few minutes.

 

But the car is still quite dead.



#7 OFFLINE   Taiwwa

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Posted 27 March 2018 - 07:52 PM

One quick Q: isn't the 12V Lithium Ion? Could that explain a sudden death of the battery? I'm thinking right now that the 12V battery needs replacing. Only thing I can think of. 



#8 OFFLINE   raadsel

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Posted 27 March 2018 - 08:55 PM

One quick Q: isn't the 12V Lithium Ion? Could that explain a sudden death of the battery? I'm thinking right now that the 12V battery needs replacing. Only thing I can think of. 

 

No, the 12V battery is a traditional lead-acid, like you find in most cars. I do agree it likely means that your battery is no longer holding a charge and needs to be replaced. Also, there are reasons that will cause a lead acid battery to suddenly fail; one I recall happened to me several years ago was a plate in one cell of the battery came loose (from what I recall) and kept shorting out the battery.


Edited by raadsel, 27 March 2018 - 08:59 PM.

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#9 OFFLINE   jestevens

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 09:35 AM

I have a 2013 SEL that was manufactured May 2012, recently paid @ $200 total (parts, labor and tax) to replace original 12V OEM battery from factory with a new 12V battery at local Ford Service.  Ford service folks kept testing battery and saying it was fine but my keyless entry wouldn't unlock doors.  After battery replaced problem seems to have gone away.  It wouldn't surprise me if the original 12V are starting to go, this winter was kind of harsh too which probably helped it along.

 

The SEL never seemed to have the 12V parasitic drain that the SE did, I'm pretty mine was just due to age.  If you haven't already you might also want to ask the dealer to take care of all of the items under the 12V battery satisfaction program as Ford did a few things to try to solve that problem, especially if you have an SE.


Edited by jestevens, 28 March 2018 - 09:41 AM.

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#10 OFFLINE   obob

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 10:51 AM

It seems to me that the downside to replacing a 12V battery that might not need to be replaced is pretty small in a 2013 that has never had the battery replaced since they all seem to be approaching end of life.  


Edited by obob, 28 March 2018 - 10:52 AM.

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#11 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 10:59 AM

It seems to me that the downside to replacing a 12V battery that might not need to be replaced is pretty small in a 2013 that has never had the battery replaced since they all seem to be approaching end of life.  

I also agree if you have 5yrs on the 12v battery it is time to replace if you have any electrical problems at all to be safe. :)

 

Paul


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#12 OFFLINE   Louder North

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 12:13 PM

I have a 2013 SEL that was manufactured May 2012, recently paid @ $200 total (parts, labor and tax) to replace original 12V OEM battery from factory with a new 12V battery at local Ford Service.  Ford service folks kept testing battery and saying it was fine but my keyless entry wouldn't unlock doors.  After battery replaced problem seems to have gone away.  It wouldn't surprise me if the original 12V are starting to go, this winter was kind of harsh too which probably helped it along.

 

The SEL never seemed to have the 12V parasitic drain that the SE did, I'm pretty mine was just due to age.  If you haven't already you might also want to ask the dealer to take care of all of the items under the 12V battery satisfaction program as Ford did a few things to try to solve that problem, especially if you have an SE.

 

We also recently replaced the 12V battery in our 2013 SEL and still had a weird electrical issue a few months later, It appears we had a random parasitic draw and it drew down the battery enough that it wouldn't respond to the FOB and there was nothing on the display when I got the door open with the metal key.  Charging it through the posts under the hood for about 5 hours (6A charge) brought it back to normal and we have had no problems since.



#13 OFFLINE   raadsel

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 12:31 PM

What is the best deal Ford has had on the batteries? And is there a good replacement you can buy that isn't from Ford? I know currently Ford is offering a $40 rebate but I seem to recall that they've frequently had a better deal. For those of us who don't have to replace the battery yet, wait for a better deal or just get the $40 rebate?



#14 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 12:49 PM

I think FORD is the only place I could find one, I think It was little over $100 to do it yourself. :)

 

Paul



#15 OFFLINE   jestevens

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 01:39 PM

At the the time they were running a motorcraft special for $80 battery or  $120 (I think?) for the "extended" version battery (which ours is of course) - the rest was labor costs = about $200 total.  It's part BXT67R  The only other battery I could find was on Amazon for $140, and with shipping @ $40 and buying extra long sockets and such it would have been almost the same as just paying the dealer's shop.  It's not the hardest job but it's not as easy as just disconnecting some wires and not really fun outside in the middle of winter with 4F temps.

 

It looks like the current special is $20 gift card or $40 off if you use your Ford Credit Card.  Prepaid Visa Debit gift cards are fun, I never seem to be able to charge them down to get the full value out of them.


Edited by jestevens, 28 March 2018 - 01:44 PM.

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#16 OFFLINE   Taiwwa

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Posted 30 March 2018 - 10:51 AM

It was the battery.

 

I hooked up a voltmeter and it showed 2.5v.

 

Bought a new one from auto zone. It was $165 or so. Turning in the old battery brought it down to $143.

 

I arced it a few times installing the battery. Boy o boy was that scary. 



#17 OFFLINE   Taiwwa

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Posted 30 March 2018 - 10:53 AM

I do kinda feel that 12v batteries should be designed like power tool battery packs. Slide in and out to replace. Also, they ought to have some sort of monitoring system which tells you how much life is left on them. 

 

It is really archaic how that battery is implemented. 


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#18 OFFLINE   ptjones

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Posted 30 March 2018 - 01:34 PM

It was the battery.

 

I hooked up a voltmeter and it showed 2.5v.

 

Bought a new one from auto zone. It was $165 or so. Turning in the old battery brought it down to $143.

 

I arced it a few times installing the battery. Boy o boy was that scary. 

I know I got mine cheaper at FORD, I guess it comes down to whether they give you a discounted price or not.

 

Paul



#19 OFFLINE   Bill-N

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Posted 30 March 2018 - 04:43 PM

Don't forget to reset the battery monitor.  I don't know how it's done, but others here do.



#20 OFFLINE   Taiwwa

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Posted 31 March 2018 - 06:32 AM

Don't forget to reset the battery monitor.  I don't know how it's done, but others here do.


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