Replaced Old Spark Plugs at 200K miles

[ptjones]

  Not in bad condition, gap was still .05", but when ICE was hot and accelerating up hill it would run rough sometimes after I used injector cleaner. Seems to be working fine with no noticeable problems. I went from SP531 to SP530 plugs.

 

Update the problem was right half shaft CV joint, no change in MPG's so I didn't need to replace Spark Plugs after all. :drop:

 

 

Paul 

Edited November 1, 2018 by ptjones

[Bill-N]

I went from SP531 to SP530 plugs. 

Why?

[ptjones]

Half way through the 2013 model FORD changed from SP531 to SP530 which is a little hotter plug.  Can't find any info on why.

 

Paul

[cmax-nynj]

Would you share the outcome and process? Thanks

[ptjones]

It's running fine so far. Haven't got into a high temp situation to really tell.  Here is a video to change the air filter so you can take the air filter plastic box out of the way( good time to replace your air filter) to get to the spark plugs. 

and here is one for changing the spark plugs, it's on a focus pretty much the same.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDiEBYCSu-gI didn't take the wires off the coils, didn't need too. Just take it easy poping off the coils from the spark plugs.  I did blow some high pressure air around the caps to get any dirt away, you want to keep things clean and not dropping anything in the spark plug hole.  It is a little scary unscrewing the plugs, but every thing worked out fine. Put some anti seize lubricate on the spark plug threads so it will be easier the next time you need to remove them. :)

 

Paul

Edited June 20, 2018 by ptjones

[SnowStorm]

I've read warnings against using anti seize.  I wonder what the C-Max shop manual says.

[plus 3 golfer]

Here's why antiseize is a no-no on spark plugs and lug nuts.  Antiseize is a lubricant and can result in applying too much pressure when tightening to required torque level and thus stretch threads / bolts.

[ptjones]

They do warn you to not over tighten and I still think it is a good idea. When I unscrewed the plugs the Aluminum was grabbing the threads, felt like it was stripping out the Cylinder head threads. Very scary to me. I tightened them by hand using ratchet wrench. 

 

Paul

Edited June 22, 2018 by ptjones

[plus 3 golfer]

I learned my lesson in the later '70s when I used anti seize on my 1975 Corvette wheel studs. When my original tires wore out, I purchased new wheels / tires and used anti seize when I mounted them.  Months later I had a stud break off.  Dealer ordered replacements and said you still have 4 on and OK to drive to work ( a few miles at 25 - 35 mph) until replacement.  Several days later, light changed and I braked hard.  Wheel broke away and stayed in fender well.  Dealer said must be bad batch of studs and ordered complete set.

 

It wasn't until years later that I learned the issue with using anti seize and highly suspect the anti seize plus my slightly over torqued lugnuts, caused my studs to eventually break.  I slightly overtorqued thinking it was better than under-torqued since I occasionaly "tested" the tires at "high speed"  :)  on I-79.

[fbov]

I've used anti-seize on wheel studs for decades. Of course, I do most wheel changes manually, and my mechanic uses torque limiters on his impact wrenches. Without limiters, I can see how an impact wrench could get you into trouble. 

Frank

[pianewman]

ptjones: How many miles were on the car when you changed the plugs? 

I understand your comment on the plugs' reluctance to be removed, as I've experienced this before, and the feeling the cylinder head is getting stripped. I'm thinking of replacing plugs earlier than recommended, as I have a fear of the plugs seizing in the cylinder head when following the recommended mileage interval.

[ptjones]

ptjones: How many miles were on the car when you changed the plugs? 

I understand your comment on the plugs' reluctance to be removed, as I've experienced this before, and the feeling the cylinder head is getting stripped. I'm thinking of replacing plugs earlier than recommended, as I have a fear of the plugs seizing in the cylinder head when following the recommended mileage interval.

I just did it with 200k miles on ODO and I wouldn't replace plugs unless you thought there was a problem like ICE not running smoothly.  My plugs actually looked pretty good and the gap was still .050".  The ICE is running smooth though, but I haven't had high WT and uphill accelerating to see if the problem shows up for sure. :headscratch:

 

Paul 

[jmk]

O/F , AF and general clean up for the coming winter season. 99,950 miles and changed the plugs today. Look ok, gapped out fine. Did note than #2 was much less tight than the other 3. You can see it in the picture... more soiled after the threads over the years...?

 

Off to consider coolant/inverter fluid and trans fluid changes... :)

[BIG ROCCO]

Thanks for the photo.  Wow, that's a lot of threads - they must extend quite a ways past the cylinder head into the combustion chamber?  I could see why they might feel tight/draggy coming out - you must be cleaning the deposits off all those long threads as you remove the plugs?  I guess I would use a loosen 3 turns/tighten 1/4 turn procedure...or something like that, like when using a tap, only in reverse.  I have used a LITTLE anti-seize on spark plug threads to prevent galling since the 70's...then tighten the 3/8" ratchet, never 1/2" or one with too long a handle or a breaker bar, by hand/feel - I never have used a torque wrench that i can remember.  I also have used anti-seize or light grease or even just a little light oil or trans fluid on wheel studs...whatever is handy, just to prevent the threads from galling...knock on wood, no problems yet - the wheel nuts I do use a clicker torque wrench for the last 20-25 years.

[plus 3 golfer]

Just changed my plugs with about 71k ICE miles and 33k EV miles.   Well Ford you could at least torqued the plugs correctly.  Take a look at the 3rd plug from the left.  It took virtually no torque to loosen the plug.  There was oil on the threads and clearly “baked” on body.  The other 3 were tight but I'm not sure they were torqued correctly either (spec. 106 lb in)   I've never had a car where the factory plugs were so easy to loosen.  Total time was about 45 minutes.  Gaps were about 0.053 inches.  So, minimal gap wear.  

 

Let's see if FE will go up.  I've been blaming FE hit on tires.   Also, next time one changes their air filter, one may want to remove the ignition coils and check spark plug torque. ?

 

 

Edited February 1, 2020 by Plus 3 Golfer

[jmk]

@ Plus 3 Golfer

 

You too, eh? Funny... I won't trip the thread in to 'what if any lubricant to use on the threads', but I'm very sure these new plugs will go the next 100k and not loosen, and when it is time to replace them, they should be easier to remove.

 

Now, back to the ICE, rad/trans flushes....