Noah Harbinger

That detail furthers my suspicion that Ford shot themselves in the ass by omitting the transmission fluid circulation pump on the otherwise-identical Hybrid transmission. I wonder if hyper-milers with the longest periods of battery-only use have seen the most failures?

I'll note that I'm >10 years in (only about 100k miles though) and my battery still seems to be doing fine (HEV_BAT_VAR_V, max variation in voltage between batteries, reads 0.01V, the minimum non-zero possible). I don't know the statistics, but I haven't heard about any abnormally frequent problems with the high-voltage battery pack.

I have no idea if this is an interesting problem, but I had a brake light out. Replacing the bulb seemed to fix it - but only for a little while. The next time I notice it's out, my roommate looks over my shoulder and says "is that corrosion on the contact?" I peer closer at it and see: Two holes! Kind of nuts to me, but maybe when the bulb burned out, it shorted, and the increased current melted through the contact. Still, I would have thought it would have blown a fuse before it melted a contact.

I don't check in nearly often enough anymore (probably a good sign given my car's over 10 years old), but I will enjoy reading if you post more!

I'd bet the project lead couldn't get a manager to sign off on adding another digit.

Yeah, I was pretty surprised by the turning radius, and had a few rear-wheel curb strikes when I first got it.

Personally, if I'm 'waiting a little bit' I'll let the light stay on so that I don't forget!

Not only is there no battery light, the car doesn't seem to notice if the battery is missing - I jump-started my C-Max and drove it without a battery installed, and there wasn't a single peep of concern on the instrument panel! I also used the flash-lights-pump-pedal procedure, and later bought FORScan Lite for IOS and verified that it had worked. Lots of data there to have fun with!

I figured it was time to find out! Bummer....

I live in California and I've had this problem too - during the summer, if it's more than maybe 85 out and I don't put up the sun shades - even for just a quick 15 trip popping in a store - I have no audio system until I let it cool down. It's irritating, but not irritating enough to deal with trying to get it looked at.

Well, I'll at least say that it doesn't sound like when my transmission was going bad ?

Something I wonder about that separate oil pump, or lack thereof for the plain hybrid, is how long do you have to drive with the engine off (e.g a long downhill with lots of regen and EV usage) before the lack of an oil pump causes heat problems for the electric motor?

I had this happen to me, but I forgot about it when I got home and forgot to pull the fuse. It resulted in a very, very dead battery.

Reading other threads on 12v batteries - I didn't reset the battery age, I suppose that plus reduced pandemic driving contributed to early battery failure.

My turn to join the low-voltage battery acid cub Came out and found the car dead, which coincidentally follows an entertainment system freeze the last time I drove it (Friday evening, found it Sunday morning). The jumper posts in the engine bay read 4 volts! I didn't think that was possible. Bought a new battery and when I went to swap it it, I found a lot of battery fluid in the battery compartment. The gas release tube had blown off - the part that sticks into the batter was still there, but the tube had separated from it. The battery bolt-down was corroded enough that after a few turns its threads stripped stripped off. Apparently it screws into a though-hole in the compartment, as I later noticed an area of dripping under the car. I dumped as much baking soda on it as I have, and it's still fizzing. I don't trust myself to clean it out sufficiently so I'm thinking of taking it to a shop, who is presumably experienced in dealing with that sort of thing. So much fun....