dmk2000

I have a similar issue with noise. Now I am thinking that if you taped microphones, but it did not fixed issue, than could it be that these mics picked resonance off head liner, or roof? Would better physical isolation of these mics from headliner would eliminate this noise? Just a thought.

Interesting. Thank you for this info. Let me see into it.

Frank. I am agree with you when it comes to a poorly done conversions. The HID kit I am trying to install is 3000K light, which is what OEM has and it is on a yellow side. From experience, right HID's with proper beam do improve driving visibility. Personally, I am blinded more by drivers with a high beams on due to bad performance of their low beam headlights rather then HID equipped cars.

That is what I am thinking as well. The problem I am afraid would be trying to explain Ford technician, why this car has an additional wire harness. Also due to my car been having 3 dead battery issues, I am afraid they will void warranty. At this point I am not changing light bulbs, and will keep OEM setup as is. That said, I will make an appointment with a dealer ( time permitted) to let them check this issue. The reason I want to go with HID, is not to be cool, but to actually improve low beam headlights performance. OEM's are too dull for me to feel comfortable.

Thanks for a reply. It does not have DRL as an option.

With lights switch in off position voltage would be 0 on low beam lights. System voltage is 13.6 V.

Interesting theory. I can tell you when I had one bulb OEM and other bulb HID, OEM worked but HID did not. HID voltage was 8.6. I could not test voltage on OEM bulb at the same time as it was connected and on. That said, does BCM also controls low beam lights voltage when car in ACC mode because in ACC mode, HID works perfectly.

I did that. OEM light is on and HID is off. It is a voltage thing. For HID to work, ballast must have minimal voltage supplied to it. If voltage is too low, no arch will be produced to create plasma in HID light to work. I wonder if someone had a reading on operating voltage of headlights during ready to drive mode of the car.

Hello everyone. This Thanksgiving weekend I was trying to improve 2013 Cmax SEL headlights output power. I got HID kit and was installing it. What I noticed is a very strange thing. After installing these lights ( low beam H11) when car in Accessories (ACC) state they work beautifully. However when car in a drive ready state, these lights do not work. After trouble shooting this issue I have noticed interesting thing. When car in ACC mode, the voltage on lights is 12.5 V. However, when car in Drive mode, I only getting 8.6 V. Is it normal? Can anyone confirm this. Thank you.

I once raced with Prius from a red light. He had no chance. it was fun, safe fun since maximum speed was no more then 55 miles per hour on 55 miles per hour speed limit highway.

Paul. That is what I do every week. I do it because of desperation, and not from a joy of owning trouble free brand new car. In my mind this is not how new car experience should be, and I do not recall it been that bad with my other new car purchases. Maxy, good luck with your buy back. Please keep us informed on how this process going.

Very good point.

+1. The problem is it is a pain in the butt to disconnect + terminal from the battery. I hope there is a easy accessible fuse somewhere to achieve this.

I had this one: http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-XP400-Instant-Portable-Source/dp/B004EIDD2Q/ref=pd_sbs_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1VW8M5ZK2V9TCATPD4HV it is 400 A.

In my case, mid size jumper battery was not able to revive CMAX. Prolonged charging of 12 V battery at 8A (40 min) did a trick. After this incident, I view jumper battery not as reliable solution as I was hopping it to be.