RobMax

Looks like that worked. Surprising considering it was such a large folder of files, though I suppose it used only certain files from the folder for my particular basic system. I wish the Ford Owners site had clearly mentioned these steps somewhere. Thanks, Rebecca!

Hi Rebecca. I followed everything up to and including plugging the otherwise empty (except for the software update I downloaded and unzipped) thumb drive into my usb port. However, the online (and emailed) instructions are only for the Sync with voice activated Nav units, not my plain old Sync, so I hit a wall trying to figure out next steps. I'll try your steps above when I can and update the thread.

So I logged in recently and up on a page popped info about a new update. I downloaded the update as a zipped file called "Gen1v441buildEE309Fupdatefromv430FpackageRev2" and ran thru a few other pages on how to actually install the update, but the Ford site's "How to install SYNC Software Updates" page and email don't describe the exact steps on how to update a non-touch version of Sync, or if it's even possible to update. I put everything on a 4Gb empty thumb drive, plug it in, etc, but all the steps are for the Navigation version of Sync and not the non-touch version I have. Anyone know if I can even install the update, or do I need to take it to a dealer and let them do it?

I did a 93 mile trip door to door, 99% highway, drafting behind a semi rig doing 55-65 mph and got 53 mpg.

Wow, that is very odd. If not even Ford can locate that part then you might want to consider sourcing it from a salvaged C-Max instead.

Who exactly is telling you this info? The repair place? If so, be sceptical. Go directly to the Ford parts counter and have the parts guy pull up the diagrams and visually confirm the part #. And do not rely on 3rd party websites like oemautopartsandaccessories.com either, as they aren't the manufacturer.

With all the rain and mud/muck it creates, is it possible something got kicked up onto the sensor that controls that auto open/close option? Maybe a quick look underneath will negate a trip to the dealer. Please update us on what fixes it!

Don't jump it, open a ticket with Ford and have them tow it to the dealership. Also, ensure the dealership fully tested the battery. Was it fully tested? Results?

I LOL'd hard at kostby's replies to pittcmax. Ranting without looking for answers is a sure way to get flamed on an internet forum. I'm on SVTPerformance.com and love laughing at the char-broiled posters I see in there. Pittcmax, you might also keep in mind winter blends of gas can have an adverse effect on mileage. Did you own the car last winter? The battery issue could be simple correlation, and not cause, of decreased mileage. That being said, did the dealership fully test the dead battery? And of course, as is always said, ensure you take the vehicle to the dealer once you've eliminated other potential sources of problems besides a dead 12V battery, which doesn't seem likely to cause your particular problem. Reminds me of a story my Dad (mechanic) told me once. Customer came in complaining of a horrible smell in the car, so it must've been the car's fault. Dad confirmed bad smell, opened trunk, discovered an old plastic bag full of decaying asparagus and promptly showed the customer the bag upon returning the car. The dealership billed the customer for time worked, as they should have. Moral here is don't assume the car is at fault, make sure it is before you request assistance. And don't complain, ask.

Bit of an odd thread IMO. OP purchased a vehicle that never had any type of promise of future upgrades to those systems, so why would OP be shocked to hear there won't be future upgrades? I bought my C-Max without MFT precisely because I don't want to be locked into it. OP is asking for something that is obviously cost-prohibitive to develop, then sell to a limited consumer base. It's akin to whining about no new programs being written for 32-bit Windows XP running off a Pentium chipset. The article says patches and updates will still be available on the "crappy MFT" you have, though upgrades aren't possible due to needing a faster processor. Does OP know of any other manufacturers that DO offer what OP is mad about Ford not offering? Besides maybe a $90k Tesla?

I set mine at 20psi cuz gas is so cheap lately, I don't want to get more than the EPA thinks it gets, or the guys at Consumer Reports got. I'm jes keeding! :thumbsup:

Not that I'd use it for such, but the first thing I thought of when learning about EV+ was it's the "Cheating Spouse" option, allowing the driver to sneak home rigged for silent running to either not get caught, or to catch the one at home with the pool boy or baby sitter. LOL

My 2004 mystichrome cobra convertible. Mods were 2.8" pulley, Bama tune, lowered, SFCs, etc. Fun car but I had to sell it last year. Broke my heart, but hopefully I can get another one some day.

Read that owners manual and you won't find anything about having to warm it up: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2014-CMAX-Owner-Manual-version-1_OM_EN_11_2013.pdf It does say on page 132: "There is no need to wait for your engine to warm up. The vehicle is ready to drive immediately after starting." Also says on page 185:"Avoid these actions; they reduce your fuel economy: Do not warm up your vehicle on cold mornings."

About this fuse, I'm sure we would all appreciate an exact description of where it is, what it does, etc, just in case any of us ever have a similar battery drain problem. Thanks!

Might want to search the Energi forum, or google. I found this: http://fordcmaxenergiforum.com/topic/2073-wrench-icon-powertrain-malfunctionreduced-power/page-2 "Vehicle would not start. Had to unhook battery and reinstall Wrench light was on previously. See 8641 IDS tested got code P1A0C also had about 10 other voltage low codes. Found TSB 13-06-28 for BCM reprogramming for code P1A0C. Reprogrammed BCM to latest CAL. Also reprogrammed PCM both BECM modules ABS module to latest CAL. Had 1.2 FH in diag and reprogramming all modules need M Time. Customer states tailgate won't open intermittently with FOB or handle. IDS tested no codes did not verify concern. Did inspect the tailgate latch assay looks ok. Lubed latch and catch assay. Cleaned tailgate weather strip assay. Did find an update for the rear tail gate module. Reprogrammed module tried tail gate about ten times worked ok every time."

I had my dream car for awhile before being forced to sell her --- a 2004 Mystichrome Cobra convertible. I did all upgrades in my garage, which included lowering springs, smaller supercharger pulley for the Eaton, Amazon tune, K&N cold air intake, etc. Car was a blast to drive, and I'm looking to get another one some day. The McLaren is an amazing car, but I wish they'd give it an easier name to remember. LOL

Two things I've always used, depending on price when purchased. One, the Techron, and the other is Sea Foam. I dump them both down the tank to mix with the fuel, which then supposedly cleans the injectors, valves, piston-tops, and cylinder walls. I know when I dumped Sea Foam slowly down the carb (so as to avoid hydrolock) in my 85 'stang it would smoke like crazy but run much better afterward. For those who want to experiment with making their own Sea Foam: http://hildstrom.com/projects/seafoam/

Any idea which DVD off ebay you got? Linky? And thanks for the feedback!

Sounds like the Safety Alert, according to the owner's manual. Absolutely no info in the manual past that description though. I always forget about engineering mode. Still haven't tried it yet, but on my list of things to do. Let us know what you get figured out Mike. I wonder if it could be something as simple as a gas cap not being tightened completely.

Heck yeah. I just wish it was a screen menu option and not buried in multiple key on/off steps.

Yeah, it's just not one of those options I've ever liked as it makes it harder to do things. I also disable the double-press of the key fob to unlock all doors. I like all door unlocked on one press of the button. Here, I tracked down my old thread and one of my posts in regards to the SE programming versus the Ford videos for the SEL. Be mindful of post #7 if you own an SE in this thread: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/4218-auto-lock-unlock-programming-not-working/

I disabled all the automatic lock and unlock features (pain in the ass and no small kids to risk falling out) but if I remember correctly when it was enabled it would only unlock the doors when the car was turned off. Check page 57 here too for details: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2014-CMAX-Owner-Manual-version-1_OM_EN_11_2013.pdf

Now knowing more about both model years, I'd buy a newer 2014 (made in the last few months) as they haven't yet been part of any recalls or TSBs... yet. Did I mention yet? LOL We're loving ours, made 03-MAY-2014.

Dunno, about your post count, but I've seen trolls survive longer than that on other more-policed forums. I have 88 posts in less than 2 months and have helped far more than I've complained, so post count doesn't do much to prove anything. If the issues are so clear to you, but you haven't yet taken control of the dealership or the manufacturer by now then I'd certainly recommend you finally do so. Don't play the victim, just simply get whatever done that you think needs to get done. Take control. Lemon law the car if you've had that much trouble with it -- I know I would have. Your 1st post in this thread said, "I guess I'll PM Ashley". After that many problems, and apparent lack of response by anyone to resolve your problems, don't guess. You also state you would still recommend Ford and the dealership(s) in this thread and the separate thread you created, yet you say they don't do the work in a timely fashion and the CSM doesn't respond. That is the oddest thing I've seen written in quite awhile. Again, do not be a victim and get things taken care of, or get the vehicle lemon-lawed. Simple choice really. I have no brand or model allegiance myself. Based on your posts you're well past being able to prove to car should be taken back, but based on my own and others' experiences you're either simply trolling or the least involved, and most taken advantage of owner I've ever seen posting. Again, I would recommend to anyone that has as many apparent problems as Max Power, to take control of the situation and ensure you don't get taken advantage of.