vonoretn

They should last 10 years. If they are 315 HZ Sensors, you can buy 4 of them for $40 on Amazon. A typical honest tire shop will charge $15 per wheel to remove the tire, install the sensor and replace the tire. Make some phone calls, get the prices. My C-Max is a 2015, and the picture above is the wrong TPMS for my car. Mine has the brass tip and thread. Make sure they mark the tire rotational position, so you get your same tire balance effect when he's done, unless you want to pay extra to have them balanced too.

And more data: Immediately after driving for 3 hours on the highway yesterday, I checked the 12 volt battery voltage. It read 12.01 volts, with everything off on the car.. I hooked up my charger, and it read 12.1 volts, with a % charge level of 54%. While charging, the battery level was at 13.2. After 20 minutes it was reading 74% charge, but if I disconnected the charger then reconnected it, it read 100%. The voltage level at this point disconnected read 12.9. I am calculating that my initial new battery amp hour rating was 54, (cold cranking amps/7.25) which is not exact but a rough estimate since there is no mathematical relationship between CCA and Amp Hours. But I think now, it's amp hour rating may be only 10, or some low number. But since it never has the burden of starting the engine, it can function at that lower amp hour rating for some time, as long it doesn't drain to below about 10.5 volts (a guess). A week ago I did check the fluid level in the battery, and none of the plates were exposed. I added a few ounces of distilled water to bring the level up to the bottom of the black tubes at each cell. I know better than to overfill a battery.

My charger is a Schumacher SC-8020A, which means 80 amp start but only 20 amp max quick charge. More data, after 3 days of not driving the battery reads 11.7 volts. According to my charger, the % charge was 38%. After 1.5 hours of charging it read 100% . The voltage level reads 13.3. Do you know at what voltage the car won't start? We know it won't at 8.5, but I'm guessing it will down into the 10s. I have heard that the computer, injectors, and ignition need at least 8 volts to operate. Of course once started, no problem. I don't think I would ever need the 80 amp start mode, because as soon as I hook up my charger the battery voltage is into the 13's and it will start. The battery is the original battery so I assume it is the BXT67R.

Good job Fbov, 8 years on your 12 volt battery. I took the car to the dealer today, and they gave it all their tests, and said it was fine. Well of course it was fine, it had just been charged for 25 minutes driving to the dealer, and the C-max charge voltage is 14.5 volts. I don't think they did an engine off battery drain test however, because it would probably only take 100 ma or so, to drain the voltage down to 8.5 volts over 4 days. But the dealer cost for a new battery is $144, so I decided to just keep an eye on it, if the voltage goes under 12, I will charge it ahead of time before going anywhere. The dealer in Sweetwater Tn. charged me nothing for their battery test.

At 85000 miles now, the car sat in our garage 4 days and wouldn't start. The 12 volt battery read 8.5 volts. I charged the 12 volt battery, my charger has voltage and % charged readings. It took a hour to charge it to 100% Vehicle started, drove it, restarted twice, once after gasing it and once after 30 minute in grocery. I located the battery in the back of the car and gave it my 100 amp voltage drop test. It dropped to 10.3 volts. That would be my lower limit for a normal car, but this battery doesn't have to do much, like start the car, since that's done by the high voltage battery. Anyway, it keeps losing % charge and the voltage drops from like 12.8 to 12.1 just sitting there. And the percent charge drops to 50% just sitting there. Yes it could be the battery, but how do I know there is not something draining it, like an improper load of some type? No engine warning lights. My 2010 Ford Fusion hybrid made it to 112K miles before I had to get a new 12 volt battery.

Thanks for how to turn off the annoying warning ! ? I guess I've been lucky. I got a new set of original equipment Michelin tires at the dealer, at 71K miles, $836, never had any flats or leaks before or since. Mostly highway driving. But I have plugged a lot of puncture failures on other peoples cars, and I will add the hand pump per the forum recommendation above. Plus a can of rubber cement that will last for years, and pliers to pull out a nail. And a jack. If you think about it, a hand pump is probably more efficient than a tiny 12 volt compressor.

All of the sudden, with the third CR2032 battery I tried, it started working to lock and unlock the doors with Fob 1. I did not know about the passive connection, which clarifies that my issue must be totally with the batteries and battery contacts. Thanks.

After 5 years, My FOB 1 would not work at all. I put in a new battery, and when I hold the fob next to the steering wheel, I can start the car. But it will not lock or unlock the doors. Any suggestions? The new battery is rated at 3 volts and reads 3.2 volts on a volt meter. The old one read 2.7 volts. The original FOB2 still works fine. Any suggestions?

My wife and I each have I phones, and we can load both phones for taking and making calls. But we cannot figure out how to switch from one iPhone music to the other, using Bluetooth. We have tried everything, the C-Max seems only capable of handling one set of iPhone Music libraries. If we remove one of the iphones completely from the car, we can get either library, but doing that on a road trip is way to much work, and must be done while the car is stopped. Any help is appreciated.

I have to update this topic, I am now solidly getting over 40 mpg. My last fill up was 47.4 mpg at just over 30,000 miles. It just gets better and better, even with a few full throttle blasts in traffic, and going between 70 and 73 mph on the highway. It definitely likes winding and even hilly roads, where the speeds are like in the 50-60 mph. Hills don't bother it, it seems to average them out. I am very pleased with the car. Too bad 2018 is the last year for it in the USA.

Thank you, that worked.

I just had an oil change at the Ford dealer, he should have reset the oil change warning light, but he probably couldn't figure it out either. I have looked in the owners manual, and I can't find exactly how to do it there. Please advise if you know.

You are right, it has gotten better. http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/vonoretn/C-Max/20000%20mile%20mpg%20status_zpsma2gsmyh.jpg

The mileage is getting better. I can now get 40 mpg on the highway at 70 mph, but very tailwind sensitive. Since most of my driving is not highway, my overall average based 100% on fileup data has just crossed over 40 mpg. I am satisfied with the mileage now.

The mileage is still not Good. See: http://s911.photobucket.com/user/vonoretn/library/C-Max Everything above 40 mpg is around town, suburban, everything below 40 is on the highway, on a trip, 70 mph plus.