cr08

Haven't done the DIY upgrade yet, but plan to give it a go at some point with my '13 Energi. Biggest headache right now is trying to track down the correct TCU. Almost all being sold on eBay look to be 3G based on the FCC/IMEI info.

You can grab the asbuilt data specific to your VIN from Ford. Index - FordServiceInfo.Com (motorcraftservice.com)

All covered in your owners manual: It's unknown why it doesn't open exactly (very well could have a DTC stored for it), but the reason it has to wait is to relieve the pressure from the tank first obviously. It has to do that and verify the pressure in the tank has dropped before it'll open the filler door.

Sounds like you potentially do have a leak somewhere that would need to be tracked down. Should be able to fill it up beyond the MIN mark easily and in theory should be able to fill the bottle up to the cap (obviously not recommended). It's designed to be a sealed reservoir and pressurized by the cooling system when full hot.

It could be a number of reasons between of many C-Max's not reaching the quoted change interval , some DIY'ing it, the low volume that are on the road, people just not bothering (coolant systems tend to be neglected by many IMO until something fails), etc.. The $150 per system doesn't seem unreasonable for a dealer. Also I'd verify the dealers you spoke with are EV certified. You can check my post here. I've posted copies of the instructions laid out in the service manual for coolant replacement/fill for the two systems.

4.8kwh is definitely in acceptable range (and you may see higher numbers when it warms up!) and at that mileage. Around 5.5-5.6kwh is brand new. If the price is right and the rest of the car checks out, it sounds like a solid vehicle.

It may be that this button does not exist unless you have the power liftgate option. Per images I'm seeing on later '17 and '18 models, the button would exist in the same place as earlier model years along the row of buttons below the climate controls such as the park sensor toggle, park assist, and the passenger airbag light.

So brought back my '13 from the dealer after getting the 12v replaced. Service advisor found nothing on file for the upgrade after prodding about it and recommended I call their parts desk back on occasion to check in on it so not quite happy about that result. Good thing is as noted in the original post: It has been confirmed that DIY upgrades are possible with TCU's from newer vehicles that are 4G capable. Catch is that there is a potential model year cutoff that I am unsure of the details for where the specific CAN bus that is used by the TCU has migrated from I-CAN to HS3 and can make some incompatible. Per the user on the MFM forums that has done this, his is a '14 C-Max with a TCU pulled from a '16 Escape, Part # HJ5T-14G087-UF. In theory the CAN bus lines should be the same between '13s and '14s. Beyond that I am unsure of what changes possibly exist in later model years. At this point I'm assuming I'll ultimately be going the DIY route.

Ultimately if it is being parked over the summer, what I'd do is charge the HVB up to about 50% to 80%, no higher. You'll need to monitor and do this manually as I noted above. Unplug and leave it when it reaches this point. Then hook up a battery maintainer to the 12v battery and leave it be. Should be no need to set it on a timer unless you want to for energy consumption reasons. The 12v battery is going to be a bit more resilient and a proper battery maintainer is going to keep it in an optimal state and are designed to be run consistently for long term storage.

1) Yes. When plugged in it will maintain the 12v battery up to a point. Part of the charging procedure is once the HVB is finished charging, it'll continue to top off the 12v battery until it is deemed full. However I do believe once this has happened, it stops monitoring until something else 'wakes up' the vehicle like Go Times, remote starting, opening a door, etc.. Sitting over summer it'll probably just charge once during the initial HVB charge cycle and then stop there. 2) From a technical standpoint, yes. However during this time the EVSE is maintaining the 12v battery charge. This cooling fan is for the actual internal charging system for the HVB. 3) The particular cooling fan you hear while charging only runs during that time. It does not run while unplugged or when the vehicle is being driven. As noted above, it is just for the charging system. Additionally, the actual cooling fans for the battery do not operate normally during charging. They only operate while the vehicle is being driven (as requested by the vehicle programming). There's ways to trick it to run during charging (Namely you plug it in while the vehicle is still running and then shut it off. The cooling fan will continue to operate as needed while the charge cycle is active. It is my understanding once the charge cycle ends, all of this resets so the battery cooling fan will not run on a subsequent charge cycle. I'm not 100% on this though.) 4) Not that I am aware of short of just manually monitoring and managing it yourself. Supposedly with the 4G modem upgrades and the move to the FordPass app instead of MyFordMobile adds a charge level restriction setting, but it is unconfirmed if it actually works for the C-Max since MFM never had that feature and the vehicle may not be programmed to take advantage of it. 5) Same. However the vehicle has intelligent battery monitoring and management for the 12v battery so it's not going to overcharge/cook the 12v battery being plugged in a lot. If the charge controller acts as a battery maintainer, you could easily work with that. With outboard chargers, I'd worry about ensuring they are designed to maintain the battery and not just act as a simple charger/jump starter. Worst case, you can buy an actual battery maintainer almost anywhere that will be more than sufficient for this purpose.

It's my understanding from those on the F150 forums doing FordPass retrofits on their trucks that the FordPass servers do take some time to fully activate and are not immediate. MyFord Mobile was also that way as I recall in the early days with the 3G modem recall. Give it a couple days after adding your car to the app and if it still doesn't activate/functions don't return, then you can bug Ford/your dealer about it.

Don't rely on the miles of range! The vehicle is simply guessing and you will get lower numbers in colder climates or if your driving previously was more 'intense'. Go by the actual SOC/% as listed under the Charge Settings screen. You can 'guess' yourself a little bit by the battery charge indicator in FordPass and how much it is filled in. More than likely it has charged to 100% each time, but you're focusing on the miles listed. My curiosity is more if you set it at a lower percentage, ie: 50% to 80%, and if the C-Max will properly stop at those levels per the actual SOC %.

The hybrids are able to take advantage of the higher voltage of the hybrid system and battery and this is where they're pulling power from for the inverter. The engine's able to provide a lot of power through the hybrid system. The F-150 hybrid motor/generator (a single motor compared to the dual motors used in eCVTs) is rated for 47hp/35kw. In comparison, trying to do that off the 12v side is going to be a MASSIVE undertaking due to the amount of amps involved. 7200w/12v is 600 amps. The HVB likely has a nonminal voltage of around 300v. That's 7200/300 = just 24 amps. BIG difference.

Not by default, but it can be enabled and works 100%. Here's the TL;DR and requires an AsBuilt modification via ForScan (easy process): https://community.cyanlabs.net/t/re-enabling-climate-domain-repeater-options-after-3-4-update-parking-sensor-display/3096/15?u=vchat20 Keep in mind mine is a '13 Energi SEL with the Dual zone auto climate control. If yours has the dual zone auto climate control, the above settings should apply as well.

The 'Use MyFord Mobile' text is going to just be a static message built into Sync and won't be modified by this TCU upgrade. You would continue to use the FordPass app regardless of this message. I believe if you upgrade to Sync 3.4.x (Ford won't offer this themselves, need to use the Cyanlabs Syn3Updater tool) it now references FordPass in this spot. I'll have to check mine and confirm. Looks like you're on a version around 3.0-3.3.x per the screenshot. I think we're getting to a point and this has been semi-confirmed by some in the Cyanlabs forum that Ford is getting to the point of not offering any further updates for these older Sync 3 versions and focusing on 3.4/4. Ford only officially offers 3.4 to 2019 or newer vehicles I believe but it can be applied unofficially to older 2016+ vehicles. EDIT: confirmed. This is on Sync 3.4.21265. And mine is still on the 3G TCU paired to MyFord Mobile.

It'll be really cool if the max charge level option works with our vehicles. I'm not hopeful though given we've never had that option anywhere and would require some software in the vehicle beyond the TCU (specifically the BECM which handles battery charging) to have a function to inhibit charging past a certain level. But definitely keep us updated if it works! I'm curious if some of the newer plug-in vehicles have this feature? Maybe @ptjones can chime in on is FEHP? Also glad to hear about the responsiveness. How fast are the remote start/lock/unlock functions to respond? I imagine the old system was probably SMS based or otherwise used a simple query/response system causing the delays but probably to save battery use. So if you refreshed the app, Ford's servers then had to send a query out to the vehicle for updates. Then you'd wait for the TCU in the vehicle to wake up for its periodic 'do I have anything to do?' check, find that query and respond back. Curious what they're going with now. Maybe with everything going LTE only which is just a data system with no classic SMS or Voice only signaling, Ford was probably afforded the ability to go to a more realtime and constant data connection this time around.

The 4G modem provided with this recall is very likely not to have the Wifi hotspot functionality. There are two distinct modem types depending on the vehicle and build. One is just the baseline FordPass modem with no hotspot hardware included. The other is the FordPass modem with the Wifi hotspot hardware. It is highly unlikely they're going to provide the hotspot version as our vehicles were never provided that option to begin with. They're just going to maintain feature parity with what we've already had. As far as subscription fees, basically all the functionality in FordPass for the remote access stuff has been made free for life by Ford. They're no longer charging for it (beyond the cost of this recall of course). The only subscription I'm aware of is the aforementioned Wifi hotspot service.

Probably going to get a chance here soon to bug my dealer about doing the upgrade on my '13. Had a few telltale 12v battery issues pop up recently (keyfob intermittently being recognized, IPC goes blank for a second or two on starting, and I've had the 'System off to save power' message show when starting the car) so waiting to see how soon it goes downhill and I need to take it in to get replaced. And at that time I can ask about the upgrade.

Most likely if it's still showing the recall on the list, it probably has not been done. Most recalls will drop off once they've been satisfied. Also, this is brand new so unless the PO got it done right before selling, I'm doubtful it was done. Best thing is to simply call your preferred Ford dealer and they can confirm if it's been applied or not. Should simply be able to provide your VIN and they can look up the records and confirm.

If you are still under warranty, I'd still check to see if the HVB can be replaced under warranty regardless of the cause. Depending on the dealer, they may go to bat for you to get it covered if it is indeed determined to need to be replaced. I'd also say the 'haven't driven it enough' excuse is a bit dubious at best IMHO depending on how long it is between drives for you. As far as replacements go, so far I haven't seen piecemeal cell swaps like you may see with the Prius'. Rather, the focus seems to be on full pack replacements.

It's all one single battery pack segmented in software. Generally speaking, 5.5kwh should be what a brand new off-the-line pack should get on the plug-in side of things. 4kwh or above is still in 'good' territory.

Posted the wiring/connector diagram. Based on the connectors and wire thickness, I'm inclined to believe it is one of the parking sensor wires or possibly the fog lamp but the wiring seems too thin for that.. Depending on how the car is equipped, should have up to 6 sensors across the front bumper. I can get additional images of the bumper of my '13 if you need to show the sensor locations.

I'm certainly not an expert on the hybrid only models, so take this with a grain of salt and I'll defer to the others here: But I don't think the failures are 100% guaranteed, but there's a very high probability. And there's schools of thought as @Billyk24 implied above where those who go to extremes to max their EV usage and hypermile the heck out of them exacerbates the damage that requires the transmission work. This is because in the hybrid models, the transmission fluid pump only runs while the ICE is operating. So in EV operation, the transmission fluid is not circulating regardless of vehicle speed. The Energi's have an auxiliary pump that runs all the time while the vehicle is 'on'.

For me it's when the car refuses to drive, not any particular level of degradation. I plan to keep it until it dies That said, my opinion used to be that I could drive it all the way to high battery degradation without issue (Not that I would, I take care of mine) but I've come to the conclusion recently that higher degradation could cause other driveability issues as the car has a harder time dealing with unbalanced cells. So I'd take that into account.

First thing at that mileage would be to check with the owner to see if they've had transmission work done. The average mileage where problems start to crop up seems to be between 80 and 100k miles. Looks like both of the vehicles you've linked are hybrid models and not the Energi's. These usually don't have battery longevity issues compared to the Energi as they aren't stressed as much. There's also no way to really check battery capacity with them either. So ultimately the transmission's going to be the big thing. 12v battery issues are another potential one, though this is going to be much less of a pain to deal with than the transmission and isn't an absolute. It's just a toss of the dice and also kinda depends on if the owner's done any work to correct it already. There were many software updates made to various modules over the years to correct 12v battery drain issues. You can ask the owner if they've had any issues needing jump started regularly and if any diagnoses or dealership work has been done to fix that. That all said, just checking KBB and private party puts $9k at the very top end of the 'Excellent' condition scale for those two so take that as you will. As an FYI: A transmission replacement is going to run you between $3000 and $5000 on average. If it was me buying: A 2013 with that high of mileage and no transmission work, I'd seriously haggle down the price given the potential repair work down the road. Talking $13-$14k all in worst case scenario with a transmission replacement, you should be able to find a (late) 2015 or newer easy and those don't have the same transmission issues. Late 2015 builds and newer are trouble free. As an example, for a 2016 hybrid SEL with a conservative 80k miles in Very Good condition they're showing $12k-$14k at the high end.