ScubaDadMiami

Everything is finally back to normal! I can't say what exactly was the final fix that made the difference. The only thing that I got from the dealer was that they contacted Ford and did what Ford said to do. My lifetime average got killed while I drove thousands of miles with the C-MAX not yet fixed, which is what the dealer said would happen. However, I am just glad to have my car back in tip-top condition.

I believe that this is the case, in my instance. I'll check again, but if I had seen a code on any of the screens, I would have reported it. I scrolled through all of the screens.

They did test with smoke.

The only area that had any codes read as follows: Man Date: 150915 B&A Bytes: 1F F0 62 47 39 CC D8 28 60 3B 98 01 06 C8 29 AF On another screen: PDS: 1

Thanks! Let me see what I see when I look at the codes.

I am having an issue, and I was wondering if anyone has a solution or knows what I should do next. It is now going on for several months, and my dealer, who seems to be trying, hasn't found the fix--so far. Driving along, the check engine light goes on in steady yellow. Other than the light coming on and remaining on, the only other thing that tips me off to something being not right with my CMAX is that the fuel economy is not as good as it usually is. I run a Vehicle Health Report. The report indicates that it is emissions related. I bring it to the dealer. They say that it is a sensor. They order and install the sensor. I am driving home from the dealer, and the light comes back on. I run another Vehicle Health Report. Same issue. I go back to the dealer. This time they tell me that the trouble is that the fuel filler is allowing air to leak in, and they have to replace it. They order the part and install it. I drive home, about 45 minutes or so away from the dealer, and I park in my garage. In a couple of days, I have to run some errands. I get in, pull out of the garage, and the check engine light comes back on again. I run another Vehicle Health Report, and it still shows the same issue. Any hints about what this could be and what to do next? I have an extended warranty to cover this, and I bought it through my dealer. Other than this, my 2013 SEL now has about 34,000 miles on it, a lifetime MPG of just under 48 (it was above 48, but then I drove around for the past couple of months with the issue, and now it has dropped), and it has been a dependable car. The back and forth to the dealer, and rental cars, is getting tiresome, and I would really like for this to get fixed on the next attempt. Thanks.

I believe that it is a Microsoft product type of error, too. Since upgrading to whatever they call it now, the forum still functions for me, but whenever I "Mark Community Read," I get a 500 error, which I did not get before. Luckily, other than that, everything seems to work.

Five quarts? Is that how much to get? I want the OW20, and I don't know enough about this to do it properly. Is there something that I need to know about what the label should say? I want to get the right stuff. Oh, and since I plan for the dealer to do the oil change at the next service, should I just get the oil, and then let the dealer put in the Ford filter?

Mine doesn't do this, either. I go through the carwash in neutral, and then I lightly depress the brake at the end, start, shift in to D and go.

Set the left screen to My View, and check to see what kind of draw you are putting on the High Voltage Battery during various activities. Just a slight difference in the Air Conditioner can make a big change. You have the temperature in the right zone, but try a degree higher for a while, and see what that does. Also, make sure to turn on recirculate on the air conditioner. Changing to 0W20 oil is not cheap, but I get about three miles per gallon higher with it. High test 93 octane gas costs a little more, but after your car gets used to it, you will get about a gallon better MPG. If you are doing a lot of highway driving on flat areas, search for the Ice High threads. Since a few reprograms ago of the software, it is not quite like it used to be, but I still do it, and it works for me at around 68 MPH. In theory, you should be able to get about 40 to 43 MPG when using this method. It doesn't sound like you are doing a lot of stopping and starting, but learning how to accelerate from a stop, if you are doing it enough, can also boost your MPG.

When I had my cell phone and charging cable installed, I observed the installer going through the fire wall by following right up the middle from the console, and then he fished the cable through the middle of the firewall, pretty much at dead center.

Thanks for all of the responses. I have been very satisfied with the service given by my dealer and my service manager. The service manager said that they had to charge for the 0W20 oil because they normally don't stock it, and they had to send out to pick up a batch. He told me that this would happen before doing it, so it was not a surprise on the bill after the fact. I am okay with them charging for the labor, and even adding on a little something for my provided oil, but $70 gets it to the point where it is worth it to pick it up myself and bring it to them. I want the dealer to do the work, because I am going to have them perform the 10,000 mile service at that time already. It is just a question of the oil and charge for it.

I am near due for my next oil change, and I want to go back to 0W20. I am definitely having reduced fuel economy since going with the standard oil used by the dealer. I only switched because the previous oil change had an extra $70 premium on it when I requested the 0W20. I'd like to buy my 0W20 oil--I am thinking Mobil 1, but I am open to suggestions--and bring it to the dealer, paying for the labor when I do my 10,000 service. Has anyone ever done something like that before? How did it turn out? Did the dealer try to balk or decline, saying that they wouldn't be responsible for engine failure after using your store bought oil, even if it is the approved grade? Thanks.

Count me in on the group using premium. It does help a little. The other thing that really made about a 3+ MPG difference (for around town driving speeds, less for highway) for me was switching to 0W20 oil. My dealer charged a big premium for using this oil, and I decided to go without it at my 20,000 mile service, and I am really losing out since switching back to the standard factory spec oil. As far as break in and fuel economy improvement goes, I noticed an improvement at about 12,000 miles.

My C-MAX is the one that is in the photo on their web page. I don't think that the CanvasBack is overly slippery, but it is nothing like the original fabric in the C-MAX. I like that I can slip things in and out without having to run from the hatch to one of the side doors in order to get something to slide in. Once inside, I use the tie-down rings, if it is the kind of thing that I worry will move around while on the road. I now have 26,000+ miles on my C-MAX, and I got the CanvasBack right after purchase. It's still going strong.