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2014-2017 C-Max Energi 3G to 4G modem update


cr08
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Update on my situation:

 

I just got back from the Ford Dealer.  Long story short, the problem persists.  They told me that they had a technician update the software and that it took.  The activation procedure went through.  The same features work, and the lock / unlock / start continue to be unresponsive.  At least it didn't get worse.  I'm going to inspect the TCU data and see if they updated anything.  Will post the results here soon...

 

Edit: 

I just checked the data on the modem, and it has not changed.  I forgot to mention that I requested service department to get a hold of Ford's Hotline so that they may trouble-shoot the problem.  Pending an appointment over the next few days.  So, in the meantime, I've decided to update the 754-01-01 values as was described by bookemdano.

 

Edit #2:

Well, I just updated the values, AND it is working!  I followed the instructions provided by bookemdano to the letter.  I had no problems.  I can now lock and unlock the vehicle.  I've yet to try the Start feature, though.  In addition, changing the Charge Settings is working now.  That includes Preferred Charge Locations, and Departure Times.

 

Here are some things that aren't working that interests me.  While charging, I can view the Charging Details.  On that screen, there is a field called "Energy" and "Charge type (Network)".  The values for those read "N/A".

 

Thanks so much to the guys that took the time to figure this stuff out.  Much appreciated!

 

Edited by GeR2
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On 4/13/2022 at 5:03 PM, GeR2 said:

Update on my situation:

 

I just got back from the Ford Dealer.  Long story short, the problem persists.  They told me that they had a technician update the software and that it took.  The activation procedure went through.  The same features work, and the lock / unlock / start continue to be unresponsive.  At least it didn't get worse.  I'm going to inspect the TCU data and see if they updated anything.  Will post the results here soon...

 

If you just need to change the values on a those lines as mentioned above, it is a super SUPER simple thing to do, and you can always just put the old values back without impacting anything. It was what it took to get mine working.

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On 4/13/2022 at 5:05 PM, JDBlue said:

 

If you just need to change the values on a those lines as mentioned above, it is a super SUPER simple thing to do, and you can always just put the old values back without impacting anything. It was what it took to get mine working.

  

Yes.  It is SUPER easy.  I just did it, and it worked!  (I've updated my previous post with the details).

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On 4/13/2022 at 7:03 PM, GeR2 said:

Update on my situation:

 

I just got back from the Ford Dealer.  Long story short, the problem persists.  They told me that they had a technician update the software and that it took.  The activation procedure went through.  The same features work, and the lock / unlock / start continue to be unresponsive.  At least it didn't get worse.  I'm going to inspect the TCU data and see if they updated anything.  Will post the results here soon...

 

Edit: 

I just checked the data on the modem, and it has not changed.  I forgot to mention that I requested service department to get a hold of Ford's Hotline so that they may trouble-shoot the problem.  Pending an appointment over the next few days.  So, in the meantime, I've decided to update the 754-01-01 values as was described by bookemdano.

 

Edit #2:

Well, I just updated the values, AND it is working!  I followed the instructions provided by bookemdano to the letter.  I had no problems.  I can now lock and unlock the vehicle.  I've yet to try the Start feature, though.  In addition, changing the Charge Settings is working now.  That includes Preferred Charge Locations, and Departure Times.

 

Here are some things that aren't working that interests me.  While charging, I can view the Charging Details.  On that screen, there is a field called "Energy" and "Charge type (Network)".  The values for those read "N/A".

 

Thanks so much to the guys that took the time to figure this stuff out.  Much appreciated!

 

 

Sorry your dealership was so useless, but glad to hear your remote functions are working finally. 

 

You know what they say... "when you want something done right, do it yourself!"

 

Edited by bookemdano
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On 4/13/2022 at 5:03 PM, GeR2 said:

Here are some things that aren't working that interests me.  While charging, I can view the Charging Details.  On that screen, there is a field called "Energy" and "Charge type (Network)".  The values for those read "N/A".

 

 

 

Those do not work for me either, on my DIY setup.

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On 4/13/2022 at 8:03 PM, GeR2 said:

Here are some things that aren't working that interests me.  While charging, I can view the Charging Details.  On that screen, there is a field called "Energy" and "Charge type (Network)".  The values for those read "N/A".

 

Thanks so much to the guys that took the time to figure this stuff out.  Much appreciated!

 

 

Glad you managed to get it all sorted!

 

As far as these missing items, it looks like this is one of a small handful of things missing for everyone still I'm assuming. I know they don't show on mine either. The actual charging log stuff has limited data still.

Charging network may also never show for us and is probably there for newer EVs like the Mach E and Lightning where they can communicate with public chargers and directly identify them. But this is just an educated guess on my part. We'll have to see as Ford continues to work on getting features working in FordPass.

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bookemdano: I went in there thinking the chances of them fixing the problem was 50/50 at best.  The idea being to get it done the "right way".  The "do it yourself" way ended up being much more gratifying.

 

cr08: We'll see as the months go by, I'm guessing new features will trickle in.

 

 

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On 4/14/2022 at 1:01 PM, GeR2 said:

Just wondering, has anyone gotten the Glympse app to work?  I can see it in my Apps list and when I tap on it, it doesn't allow me to invite viewers.

 

You mean on your Sync screen? Those are AppLink apps, which require a connection with your phone. If you have an android phone I think the connection can work over bluetooth. For iPhone it must be plugged into one of the USB ports inside the center console (Ford added bluetooth AppLink for iPhones in Sync 3.4, which the C-Max cannot get officially). 

 

You also need to have the Glympse app installed on your phone I believe.

 

That said, I have not actually tried it, so even if you did the above I'm not sure if it works. Ford has sort of abandoned AppLink (not officially I don't think, but there hasn't been much if any development work on it in quite a while). CarPlay/Android Auto are a better way to go in most cases.

Edited by bookemdano
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On 4/14/2022 at 1:40 PM, bookemdano said:

 

You mean on your Sync screen? Those are AppLink apps, which require a connection with your phone. If you have an android phone I think the connection can work over bluetooth. For iPhone it must be plugged into one of the USB ports inside the center console (Ford added bluetooth AppLink for iPhones in Sync 3.4, which the C-Max cannot get officially). 

 

You also need to have the Glympse app installed on your phone I believe.

 

That said, I have not actually tried it, so even if you did the above I'm not sure if it works. Ford has sort of abandoned AppLink (not officially I don't think, but there hasn't been much if any development work on it in quite a while). CarPlay/Android Auto are a better way to go in most cases.

 

Yes.  I'm referring about the Sync screen.  I'm able to pair my android phone using bluetooth and USB.  Glympse loads on the Sync system.  I see the main menu.  But that's as far as it goes.  I normally use it on my smartphone, it works like a charm.  Wither way, it would be nice to have a location sharing app via Applink or Android Auto.

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I have not read this entire thread, but I think I have a super interesting story to share...
 

  • I called three different Ford dealers trying to get the best price and fastest service
  • #1 didn't know about the upgrade
  • #2 Quoted me about $450 and an uncertain wait time
  • #3 said "you're in luck your VIN was selected for the promotion, and your installation will be completely free in about three weeks from now"
  • I told the guy that I think he is wrong, and only the labor is free. He said, "nope, the whole thing is free".
  • I thought "I'll believe it when I see it"
  • I got the car back yesterday... And I walked out without paying a cent. In fact - there is no paper work at all, haha, not even proof of what was done.
  • ^^ That is the good news.
  • The bad news is that although Ford Pass was able to connect to the car (which was not possible with 3G)... The app doesn't work. See attached images of the app saying "doors failed to lock/unlock" and "car failed to start/stop"
  • I just wrote my guy an email asking him about the best way forward. I suspect that he is going to have no idea what the best way forward is.
  • Any advice would be appreciated.

 

 

What you can learn from me:

  • Call a few places and ask them whether your VIN is eligible for the free installation
  • Don't assume that just because the Ford Pass app connected it will actually work. I recommend that you ask the dealership to accept the on-screen notification that will enable you to connect to Ford Pass (I did this). I also recommend that you then ask them to observe the car while you do a remote start/stop (I did not do this).

 

 

 

PS: I can't find the @bookemdano tutorial that everybody is talking about, but I don't have any fancy car equipment so I suspect the tutorial will be lost on my unless somebody in the Boulder, Colorado, area wants to lend a hand...?

 

 

WhatsApp Unknown 2022-04-14 at 10.05.17 PM.zip

Edited by Nervous but Excited
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On 4/14/2022 at 9:32 PM, Nervous but Excited said:

I have not read this entire thread, but I think I have a super interesting story to share...
 

  • I called three different Ford dealers trying to get the best price and fastest service
  • #1 didn't know about the upgrade
  • #2 Quoted me about $450 and an uncertain wait time
  • #3 said "you're in luck your VIN was selected for the promotion, and your installation will be completely free in about three weeks from now"
  • I told the guy that I think he is wrong, and only the labor is free. He said, "nope, the whole thing is free".
  • I thought "I'll believe it when I see it"
  • I got the car back yesterday... And I walked out without paying a cent. In fact - there is no paper work at all, haha, not even proof of what was done.
  • ^^ That is the good news.
  • The bad news is that although Ford Pass was able to connect to the car (which was not possible with 3G)... The app doesn't work. See attached images of the app saying "doors failed to lock/unlock" and "car failed to start/stop"
  • I just wrote my guy an email asking him about the best way forward. I suspect that he is going to have no idea what the best way forward is.
  • Any advice would be appreciated.

 

 

What you can learn from me:

  • Call a few places and ask them whether your VIN is eligible for the free installation
  • Don't assume that just because the Ford Pass app connected it will actually work. I recommend that you ask the dealership to accept the on-screen notification that will enable you to connect to Ford Pass (I did this). I also recommend that you then ask them to observe the car while you do a remote start/stop (I did not do this).

 

 

 

PS: I can't find the @bookemdano tutorial that everybody is talking about, but I don't have any fancy car equipment so I suspect the tutorial will be lost on my unless somebody in the Boulder, Colorado, area wants to lend a hand...?

 

 

WhatsApp Unknown 2022-04-14 at 10.05.17 PM.zip 202.95 kB · 1 download

@bookemdano's approach requires a laptop computer running Windows, a program called FORScan that you can use for free for some period of time, and a $70 or so piece of hardware that you use to connect the laptop to your car's OBD port (https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-ex/?ref=forscan). I would start reading on page 14 of this topic with @bookemdano's post at Posted April 3, 2022 at 06:40 PM. There is a sequence of posts about modifying data stored in the car in a way that may fix your problem with lock/unlock/remote start. 

When I had my 4G modem installed by a Ford dealer in January, it took five days before I could activate my car on FordPass and not all of the FordPass features worked right away. My sense is that things have improved since then. But FORScan can help diagnose the problem and potentially fix it. 

 

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On 4/15/2022 at 12:44 AM, oldbeyondmeasure said:

@bookemdano's approach requires a laptop computer running Windows, a program called FORScan that you can use for free for some period of time, and a $70 or so piece of hardware that you use to connect the laptop to your car's OBD port (https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-ex/?ref=forscan). I would start reading on page 14 of this topic with @bookemdano's post at Posted April 3, 2022 at 06:40 PM. There is a sequence of posts about modifying data stored in the car in a way that may fix your problem with lock/unlock/remote start. 

When I had my 4G modem installed by a Ford dealer in January, it took five days before I could activate my car on FordPass and not all of the FordPass features worked right away. My sense is that things have improved since then. But FORScan can help diagnose the problem and potentially fix it. 

 

 

As someone that has been successful with the DIY 3G -> 4G update (thanks to lots of help from folks on this and the related FFE forum) it seems worth sharing that:

 

1) to be successful you need to follow all the steps/upgrades/configurations required using the proper tools/software  . . .(like having an “H” TCU, installing the “UM” update, and the revelation from one team member that having the correct data in each and every line of the TCU configuration mattered . . .which BTW was a huge turning point.)

 

2) just as every step is important for DIY the same applies to the dealer techs and we all know that now and then a few don’t necessarily “sweat the details” so just because one had the upgrade done at the dealer is sadly not a guarantee you will have a successful upgrade (unfortunate recent example: I found that nearly all of the plastic insert “nuts” for the screws that hold my FFE’s air flow panel . . .that must be removed for oil changes. . .are stripped because the a few techs are using power drivers that are not properly torque limited for such a use)

 

3) using the “connected car” web site helps to accelerate the toggle for authorization  . . .including making it easy and fast to go back and forth, re-enable after a SYNC reset, etc.

 

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@Nervous but Excited Did the FordPass authorization work as expected (Add your car's VIN to FordPass, sit in car with the ignition on and tap the Authorize button in FordPass, wait for the popup control request on the Sync screen & allow control, then wait for FordPass to acknowledge the authorization & refresh or close/open the app)? You might try a Sync master reset (note that this will remove your bluetooth pairing with your phone and reset some other settings) via Settings > General on the Sync screen. That will remove the FordPass authorization so you can try re-authorizing it. Do you know if there is good AT&T 4G signal coverage at your house (or wherever your car is parked)?

 

Aside from the lock/unlock/start functions, if you tap on "Vehicle" at the bottom of the FordPass screen are you seeing any info there? If the modem is communicating with the car you should be seeing a current odometer reading, the car's current location, fuel and EV battery level/range, among other things. Are you seeing some/all of that info?

 

The previous advice you got is good. If you want to check out the modem with Forscan you don't necessarily need to buy the $60 OBDLink EX (although it's a great adapter and works very well). A $20 USB ELM327 adapter with a physical HSCAN/MSCAN switch can work just fine for checking the modem and reconfiguring it if need be. There's a bunch of them on amazon for various prices. Just search for USB ELM327 MS-CAN and look for the ones that have a chrome metal switch next to where the cable exits the OBD2 plug. Here's one for ~$17 that should work fine (haven't used it myself but reviews look decent).

 

As @JTEX said (and I'm sure @GeR2 would agree), the dealers aren't actually that helpful when it comes to troubleshooting this stuff. You're already ahead of the game by getting your modem & labor comped, so I'd say we can take it from here.

 

Edit: I'm curious what the recall is that's showing in the upper left corner of your FordPass app. Is that the 21B09 CSP for this modem swap? Or does it pertain to some other Ford vehicle you have in your account?

 

 

Edited by bookemdano
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On 4/15/2022 at 8:23 AM, bookemdano said:

@Nervous but Excited Did the FordPass authorization work as expected (Add your car's VIN to FordPass, sit in car with the ignition on and tap the Authorize button in FordPass, wait for the popup control request on the Sync screen & allow control, then wait for FordPass to acknowledge the authorization & refresh or close/open the app)? You might try a Sync master reset (note that this will remove your bluetooth pairing with your phone and reset some other settings) via Settings > General on the Sync screen. That will remove the FordPass authorization so you can try re-authorizing it. Do you know if there is good AT&T 4G signal coverage at your house (or wherever your car is parked)?

 

Aside from the lock/unlock/start functions, if you tap on "Vehicle" at the bottom of the FordPass screen are you seeing any info there? If the modem is communicating with the car you should be seeing a current odometer reading, the car's current location, fuel and EV battery level/range, among other things. Are you seeing some/all of that info?

 

The previous advice you got is good. If you want to check out the modem with Forscan you don't necessarily need to buy the $60 OBDLink EX (although it's a great adapter and works very well). A $20 USB ELM327 adapter with a physical HSCAN/MSCAN switch can work just fine for checking the modem and reconfiguring it if need be. There's a bunch of them on amazon for various prices. Just search for USB ELM327 MS-CAN and look for the ones that have a chrome metal switch next to where the cable exits the OBD2 plug. Here's one for ~$17 that should work fine (haven't used it myself but reviews look decent).

 

As @JTEX said (and I'm sure @GeR2 would agree), the dealers aren't actually that helpful when it comes to troubleshooting this stuff. You're already ahead of the game by getting your modem & labor comped, so I'd say we can take it from here.

 

Edit: I'm curious what the recall is that's showing in the upper left corner of your FordPass app. Is that the 21B09 CSP for this modem swap? Or does it pertain to some other Ford vehicle you have in your account?

 

 

 

 

Dealers don't normally get into the nit and gritty of the problem.  I've learned that through experience.  I agree with bookemdano, what shows up on the "Vehicle" screen?  If it shows the metrics, then you are half way there.  

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On 4/15/2022 at 9:23 AM, bookemdano said:

 Did the FordPass authorization work as expected (Add your car's VIN to FordPass, sit in car with the ignition on and tap the Authorize button in FordPass, wait for the popup control request on the Sync screen & allow control, then wait for FordPass to acknowledge the authorization & refresh or close/open the app)?


@bookemdano yes - The app connection process went as expected.
I did a master reset. The car asked to connect to Wifi to check for system updates. I used a cell phone to make a hotspot, but the car wasn't able to connect to this for some reason (even though my laptop successfully connected).

AT&T 4G coverage should be solid. I tested within the city limits of Boulder, Colorado (I've tested in three different places).


The app is currently showing me everything that you listed (current odometer reading, the car's current location, fuel and EV battery level/range, among other things, etc.). But the start/stop and door lock/unlock functions don't work.

I'm curious about the recall icon too. It directs me to the regular website, where I can enter my VIN. It then shows that the 4G upgrade is still required (see image attached). Weird. Would love to know what you think of this, because it's obviously not happening to you...?


I just read the entire thread starting from page 14 (the stare of @GeR2's journey). My takeaways are that there is a high probability that the Ford dealership is not going to be able to solve this problem easily. I think that probably doing it myself will be easier. I am extremely grateful that I was able to live through @GeR2's journey. And also super grateful for the wizards that figured all of this out.

I have a few questions before I begin my journey:
1 - Are we sure that this cable (recommended by @bookemdano is appropriate for the job?

2 - I don't know whether I have Sync 2 or Sync 3. How would this influence my journey? I have a 2017 Energi SE (second hand)
3 - My plan is to order the cable before installing ForScan - this is to ensure that I don't run out of time with the trial period.
4 - The cable plugs into the receiver by the driver's left knee (under the steering wheel)... correct...?
5 - anything else to consider before I start this journey and order the cable?



 

WhatsApp Image 2022-04-16 at 8.30.16 AM.jpeg

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On 4/16/2022 at 11:10 AM, Nervous but Excited said:


@bookemdano yes - The app connection process went as expected.
I did a master reset. The car asked to connect to Wifi to check for system updates. I used a cell phone to make a hotspot, but the car wasn't able to connect to this for some reason (even though my laptop successfully connected).

AT&T 4G coverage should be solid. I tested within the city limits of Boulder, Colorado (I've tested in three different places).


The app is currently showing me everything that you listed (current odometer reading, the car's current location, fuel and EV battery level/range, among other things, etc.). But the start/stop and door lock/unlock functions don't work.

I'm curious about the recall icon too. It directs me to the regular website, where I can enter my VIN. It then shows that the 4G upgrade is still required (see image attached). Weird. Would love to know what you think of this, because it's obviously not happening to you...?


I just read the entire thread starting from page 14 (the stare of @GeR2's journey). My takeaways are that there is a high probability that the Ford dealership is not going to be able to solve this problem easily. I think that probably doing it myself will be easier. I am extremely grateful that I was able to live through @GeR2's journey. And also super grateful for the wizards that figured all of this out.

I have a few questions before I begin my journey:
1 - Are we sure that this cable (recommended by @bookemdano is appropriate for the job?

2 - I don't know whether I have Sync 2 or Sync 3. How would this influence my journey? I have a 2017 Energi SE (second hand)
3 - My plan is to order the cable before installing ForScan - this is to ensure that I don't run out of time with the trial period.
4 - The cable plugs into the receiver by the driver's left knee (under the steering wheel)... correct...?
5 - anything else to consider before I start this journey and order the cable?



 

WhatsApp Image 2022-04-16 at 8.30.16 AM.jpeg

 

Probably normal for the recall (well, CSP technically) to still be showing there. I would guess there is some lag time for it to show that you had it performed. Mine never showed up because for some reason my 2017 C-Max was not eligible for the program. I could have fought it out with my dealer but ultimately I was comfortable going to DIY route to save some money and hassle.

 

So if the app is working save for lock/unlock/remote start then it sounds like you're in the exact same boat as @GeR2, in which case you can just follow the same instructions I wrote up for him. 

 

As for your specific questions:

 

1. The cable I linked should work fine. Forscan will complain that it's not on their list but that warning is more pertinent for people who are trying to do really demanding stuff with Forscan like firmware flashing or procedures involving the body control module. For a simple edit to a modem's as-built, you really don't need to spend $60 on the OBDLink EX (but if you think there's a chance you'll want to get further into Forscan and don't mind the cash outlay then the OBDLink EX is not a bad investment). 

 

But feel free to look around for other cables. @GeR2 bought one that can auto-switch between HS and MS-CAN, which is a handy feature (the OBDLink EX can also do this). But it's not really necessary for this specific purpose. For the ones like I linked there is a physical toggle switch that you'll need to set in the MS-CAN position for this process. You won't need to access the HS-CAN bus at all, so an auto-switching adapter isn't really a huge advantage.

 

I recommend buying from amazon simply because their returns process is so easy just in case you get a defective cable (unlikely though).

 

2. As for if you have Sync 3, what size is the screen in your center stack? Is it 8" or 4.2"? The SE models came standard with the smaller screen but if they had the available equipment package they got Sync 3 and the 8" screen. Regardless, I don't think this actually has any bearing on the issue you're having with your modem.

 

3. Good idea, although you can simply request a new license when your 2 month trial runs out. The Forscan devs don't seem to have any problem with this--and especially now since it's not possible to buy a license even if you wanted to.

 

4. Yes. There are actually two OBD2 connectors--you can use either one. One is up in the footwell sort of above the brake pedal and the other is behind a plastic access door under the headlight switch. Make sure when using Forscan that you don't have anything else plugged into the other OBD2 port (very unlikely, but for instance some insurance companies provide a doohickey to plug in there in exchange for modest insurance discounts). 

 

5. Nothing else I can think of that didn't already get addressed in my previous posts.

 

Keep us posted!

 

Edited by bookemdano
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On 4/16/2022 at 5:40 PM, Nervous but Excited said:

Thanks @bookemdano!
I'm gonna order the cable now.
Will post back here once I've given this a go.

I have an 8" screen, so probably Sync3. Glad to hear that this doesn't change anything.

Sync 3 can display information about itself. Try Settings >> General >> (Scroll down) >> About SYNC and you should get a display that includes version information.

 

A lot of folks on this forum have software version 3.4 but I have not gone there yet. I believe that version 3.0 is the most recent version provided by Ford. 

20220416_212859.jpg

Edited by oldbeyondmeasure
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Something I've noticed happening with mine recently. First is the fuel level updates seem to be delayed by a tip or two. This has been consistent over the past week or two. Multiple refreshes in the app do nothing. Only seems to update on susequent trips. Battery/EV range and other data updates fine, however. Nothing new to speak of otherwise.

 

Interesting tidbit I did fine and not sure if this was how things functioned with the old 3G modem: If the vehicle is already locked and you hit the lock button in FordPass, the lights don't flash. Only if the vehicle is unlocked and you lock it, do the lights flash. I need to test again and see if the locks actually audibly trigger or not. I was inside the house when I saw this happen last time.

 

OT note since it's been brought up here, I did start a separate thread with a brand new spreadsheet covering possible software modifications for the C-Max:

 

EDIT: Confirmed if already locked and if you hit the lock button in FordPass, the car makes no indication visibly or audibly that another lock attempt was made. The locks do not 'click'. So probably a good bit of useful info considering FordPass doesn't give lock/door/window statuses at this time.

Edited by cr08
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Update on Ford Dealer contact:

 

I received a call from the Ford Dealer that installed the 4G modem on my Cmax.  They said that Ford is working on a software update and that they will contact me when it is ready to be installed.  What do you folks make of this?  Under what condition should I bring it in to have them update the software?  I'm guessing I should ask them if it is a necessary firmware upgrade or is it a fix for owners that had the same problem I used to have.

 

 

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On 4/22/2022 at 9:40 PM, GeR2 said:

Update on Ford Dealer contact:

 

I received a call from the Ford Dealer that installed the 4G modem on my Cmax.  They said that Ford is working on a software update and that they will contact me when it is ready to be installed.  What do you folks make of this?  Under what condition should I bring it in to have them update the software?  I'm guessing I should ask them if it is a necessary firmware upgrade or is it a fix for owners that had the same problem I used to have.

 

 

 

If you don't mind being a guinea pig, maybe go through with it and see what they end up doing? I'd be interested if they have a new calibration update. Did they by any chance give an idea how long this update would take?

 

Checking the DSFM site, there does appear to be a new UN calibration level out there. HJ5T-14G139-UN. I may give a go at doing this update on mine either tomorrow or Sunday.

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On 4/22/2022 at 7:42 PM, cr08 said:

 

If you don't mind being a guinea pig, maybe go through with it and see what they end up doing? I'd be interested if they have a new calibration update. Did they by any chance give an idea how long this update would take?

 

Checking the DSFM site, there does appear to be a new UN calibration level out there. HJ5T-14G139-UN. I may give a go at doing this update on mine either tomorrow or Sunday.

What, pray tell, is DSFM?

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On 4/23/2022 at 2:05 AM, oldbeyondmeasure said:

What, pray tell, is DSFM?

DSFM File Download (dealerconnection.com)

 

Basically lets you download calibration files from Ford as long as you know what filenames you're looking for. In this case I just incremented it from UM to UN on a whim. Nothing else past that up through UZ.

 

Curiously enough the timestamp on the UM calibration was dated for 8/27/2021, well before a lot of this stuff started rolling out to the public. UN is dated 3/9/22 so definitely very recent. Unfortunately no clue what changes there are.

 

EDIT: Looks like there's a matching strategy file out there as well. Same timestamp. I'll definitely be giving this a go sometime this weekend and will report back.

 

Calibration: HJ5T-14G139-UN (Dated 3/9/22)

Strategy: HJ5T-14G144-UP (Dated 3/9/22)

Edited by cr08
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