Driving During Break In Period

[AudenHoggart]

The owners manual discuses a break in period for the C Max.   Most of the discussion I've seen has been about measuring the mileage for the first few thousand miles.  The manual also talks about not driving too fast during break in, but doesn't indicate what too fast would be, or how long the break in period is for this purpose.  It also talks about avoiding steep hills with heavy loads.

 

We've got about 400 miles on our car and are planning on a road trip starting next week.  What recommendations do any of you have about speed on the interstate?  I might  be going through some areas with 75 mph limits, although not until after I've travelled about 1000 miles.  But what about the 70 mph interstates I'll be on before that?

 

I'll also be driving through the Ozarks so there will be some steep hills.  It'll be me and my wife and a couple of weeks worth of luggage.  Does this constitute steep hills with heavy loads?  I also won't hit this part until after we've gone about 1000 miles.

 

Any advice?   Thanks!

[Hatchman]

Drive it like normal. You will be fine.

[DR61]

I suggest that you use gentle pulse and glide until you have over 1000 miles.  For instance, on the interstate accelerate moderately to 70 mph, then slowly ease the go pedal to around 64 mph (trying to keep the engine from shutting off), then ease back to 70.  Do this in the right lane when there is not heavy traffic behind you and no car is following you too closely.  In other words, alter speeds and don't run at any one speed for more than a few minutes, and don't use cruise control.

 

After 1000 miles, I would suggest that you enable eco cruise (so speeds vary somewhat with grade) and use it when you want to rest your right foot.

 

The Ozarks are not considered steep by our standards in the western US.  Just vary your speeds in the right lane when climbing hills and that should be fine.  I would configure a display to show the gas engine coolant temperature if outside temperatures are warm (not likely!).

[Jus-A-CMax]

Ha...welcome to the forum AudenHoggart :)

 

The answer is to drive it normally but try to keep away from "yellowing" the power bar in the EMPOWER mode, you should not have needs for that much instant power, or very rarely.

 

Eco cruise is very handy as well.

 

Also, take a look at my 2 Mammoth threads here (use search or click my username and topics) with 3 return trips & currently on my 4th, Maxine will carry a full load of gear of skis/board, food, kitchen sink (thanks wifey) with no issues. What I learn is that steep grades, just throw that car into cruise and stay right at 60mph (sweet spot for mtn climbing) and enjoy the ride up, can't fight physics as my wife says. Any faster and you're throwing away gas, ime.

 

Now the truth with the break in based on my opinion and observation is that it starts around 3000 and continues with improving mpgs thru 5000 and for me still continuing thru 8000. I just had a personal best run to Mammoth this weekend so its not levelled out yet.

 

So....just enjoy your new car, don't worry about this or that ... Yes, it will carry everything up to the ceiling and still give you decent mpgs  :)

 

PS in regards to 70mph, you won't be able to EV but your mpg in full ICE should be between 35..40 instant mpg but your battery needs to be high > 75%...or just throw the car into eco-cruise and be done with it and enjoy the scenery  ;)

Edited March 9, 2013 by Jus-A-CMax

[C-MaxJaxon]

The recommendation to alter speed during engine breakin applies more to normal transmissions. It may not do as much in the C-Max with the CVT altering its ratio to keep the engine running at an efficient RPM, independent of speed.

[wab]

The recommendation to alter speed during engine breakin applies more to normal transmissions. It may not do as much in the C-Max with the CVT altering its ratio to keep the engine running at an efficient RPM, independent of speed.

 

I've wondered about that.

 

 

 

40+ yrs ago for my first NEW car (69 Chevel SS) I was thought to vary the engine speed for the first 500 miles, NO cruise control AT ALL (this came later in 74 in the owners manual).

Second 500 same as first but with a few full throttle blasts of a few (couple) of seconds and drop the transmission down a gear while stopping.

I've shifted (changed the transmission ratio) in the CVT by shifting to the L position and pushing that little button on the shifter... started to call it over-drive but then I would have to edit the ;)  edit.

Third 500 safe to use cruise control, but go to full throttle for longer periods, as long as you can stand it or till you see red lights behind you.

 

Like the book says COMPLETELY ignore MPG for the first 1K miles!

I've always had very good luck with this method, good HP, good MPG, zero oil user for many K miles.

 

wab

Edited March 10, 2013 by wab

[Hatchman]

I've wondered about that.

I was thought to very the engine speed for the first 500 miles, NO cruise control AT ALL.

Second 500 same as first but with a few full throttle blasts of a few (couple) of seconds and drop the transmission down a gear while stopping.

Third 500 safe to use cruise control, but go to full throttle for longer periods, as long as you can stand it or till you see red lights behind you.

 

Like the book says COMPLETELY ignore MPG for the first 1K miles!

I've always had very good luck with this method, good HP, good MPG, zero oil user for many K miles.

 

wab

 

Please tell us how you "drop the transmission down a gear" with a CVT tranmission. 

 

Thank you!  

[StoBro2]

I'm pretty sure one of the reasons why you should vary your speed during the engine break-in period is to allow the piston rings to seat properly. Working the accelerator pedal will vary the load on the engine, even while the CVT is adjusting ratios. It's not so much the speed that needs to change, it's the load on the engine.

 

An internal combustion engine with properly seated rings will have better compression, with better performance and better fuel economy as a result.

[plus 3 golfer]

Just drive normally. There will be plenty of load changes as the engine starts and stops, as the HV battery's are charged by the generator, and as the elevation changes. Even when using cruise control engine load will change.

 

Edited March 10, 2013 by Plus 3 Golfer

[roninsd]

My dealer told me that she didn't want me using cruise control for the first 1000.  Other than that, "drive gently".

[plus 3 golfer]

My dealer told me that she didn't want me using cruise control for the first 1000.  Other than that, "drive gently".

Likely, because the dealer doesn't understand break-in and that even at constant speed and flat terrain, the engine load changes in the C-Max.  There is always drain on the HV battery which is replenished periodically by the generator.  In a non-hybrid, the engine (via the alternator) continuously supplies the electrical load. 

 

The above graph shows significant change in rpm with cruise control set at 70 mph via gps.  The stretch recorded at 70 mph (shown on the graph at 110 km/h) is virtually flat (30 feet elevation rise in 8+ miles). Each unit of time is about 2/3 second.  In non-hybrids the rpm would have virtually been a flat line for the entire 8 miles.  All one wants to avoid is constant WOT acceleration and excessive speed (high rpm) for longer periods of time.  I'd say that would likely be above 2500 rpm and certainly above 3000 rpm. I believe this is well above 75 mph.

 

If Ford wanted one to avoid using CC, it would be in the manual. 

[wab]

Likely, because the dealer doesn't understand break-in and that even at constant speed and flat terrain, the engine load changes in the C-Max.  There is always drain on the HV battery which is replenished periodically by the generator.  In a non-hybrid, the engine (via the alternator) continuously supplies the electrical load. 

 

The above graph shows significant change in rpm with cruise control set at 70 mph via gps.  The stretch recorded at 70 mph (shown on the graph at 110 km/h) is virtually flat (30 feet elevation rise in 8+ miles). Each unit of time is about 2/3 second.  In non-hybrids the rpm would have virtually been a flat line for the entire 8 miles.  All one wants to avoid is constant WOT acceleration and excessive speed (high rpm) for longer periods of time.  I'd say that would likely be above 2500 rpm and certainly above 3000 rpm. I believe this is well above 75 mph.

 

If Ford wanted one to avoid using CC, it would be in the manual. 

 

Your graph is very informative...thanks.

 

Speaking of the owner's manual, most C-Maxes will be well past the breakin period by the time pg 528 is read.

 

"ABOUT THIS MANUAL

Thank you for choosing Ford. We recommend that you take some time to

get to know your vehicle by reading this manual. The more that you

know about it, the greater the safety and pleasure you will get from

driving it."

 

Maufactures need to start publishing a "User's Manual" with the Owner's Manual.

 

. Do this

. Do this

. Don't do this

. Don't do this

[pomtrey]

yes yes yes!!!

[shaners]

I believe that some of the manufacturers concern is also related to things like wheel bearings, tires and brakes.  All of those require a break-in period to reach their most affective and safe operating conditions.  As far as engines are concerned today, I would not be too worried about break-in unless your normal driving style is similar to an Indy Car driver on a race Sunday.

[iusorr]

Thanks for the information.  I'm getting my C-MAX at the end of the month and was going to be partiular with my new car, but alas my wife has claimed it for her longer drive to work for about 2 months.  After that she'll have a new job closer to home and I'll finally be the primary driver.  She tends to zip around and I was worried she would be driving it too fast down the interstate during this break in period.  She's got heavy feet.  I may have to infuse some helium in her shoes.

[MacGyver]

Very very interesting stuff, thanks.

 

I tried to take a different approach than I thought the drivers with bad mpg were getting, and so pretty much drove it hard (not super-hard, but not gentle like I do now) to vary the compression and seat the piston rings properly.

 

I'm just above 5000 now, and seeing some modest increases in mpg, so I guess it worked out ok- I think I got a good one anyways, I've been seeing good to excellent mpg even from the beginning, my sel had very few miles on it, like 50 from my dealer getting it from another one for me.

 

Wondering if the break-in is even longer than they thought, given that it's a CVT/hybrid?

[armoredsaint]

i broke mine in doing 80-85 

[jhritz]

I broke 5000 miles just before our trip from Ann Arbor to Toronto.  Temperatures have been warmer and the car averaged 42 mpg for the trip.  This included driving in stop and go traffic on Toronto freeways.  Ever since, I've been getting much better mileage.

 

Looking at the Engage display (separate battery and engine KWs) I noticed that the car uses less power from the engine versus when I first got the car in November. My normal cruising speed is about 65-66 mph with ECO cruise on.  At this speed, I don't go into EV-only mode on declines.  It just keeps the battery topped up and use EV-assist on the inclines.  I seem to get higher mpg going downhill too.  On the flat, I'm using right around the first TIC on the engine where it used to be closer to 2 for the same commute to work prior to hitting the magic 5000 miles.

 

So its not clear to me what is breaking in?  Is it the battery, the engine or the transmission?  To reduce the number of KWs required from the engine with no battery assist, you have to change the torque multiplication in the CVT or the engine has to be providing more torque at a particular rpm.  The implication is that the transmission is running at a different ratio now and/or the engine is making more power to maintain a given speed.

 

The thing we're missing is a combined engine rpm and engine torque display.

Edited May 16, 2013 by jhritz

[Bill-N]

So its not clear to me what is breaking in? 

 

My experience is that the c-max is very sensitive to outside air temp.  I think it's that more than break-in.

[subter]

I agree.  After learning all the driving tips, the biggest impacts I've witnessed are outside air temps 1st, then running the air conditioning second.

My experience is that the c-max is very sensitive to outside air temp.  I think it's that more than break-in.

[jhritz]

My experience is that the c-max is very sensitive to outside air temp.  I think it's that more than break-in.

 

That makes sense for the battery contribution to torque, but gas engines are much less sensitive to temperature.  Another possibility is the change to summer fuel stock.  That's worth 1-2% more power.

[Bill-N]

gas engines are much less sensitive to temperature.

 

True, but when the weather is cold, the engine runs to warm the high voltage battery as well as the cabin.  At least that's what I'm told.

[fotomoto]

That makes sense for the battery contribution to torque, but gas engines are much less sensitive to temperature. 

 

I have to disagree when we are talking hybrid gas engines because they are taxed twice in the cold.  First due to normal warm up factors that affect all ICE and second when needed to provide interior heat when they normally would shut down.  

Edited May 18, 2013 by fotomoto

[chrisl]

I'm going to resurrect this thread to ask about engine break in rather than starting a new one.

 

I'm getting a 2013 SE (silver) that's getting dropped off tonight, and I'm planning to drive from LA to the Bay Area next week for thanksgiving.  The question is whether I should take the new C-max, which won't have many miles at all yet, or the old car.  I'm most concerned about whether the load going over the grapevine will be too high during the break in period.  I also tend to drive a little fast, but I always do manual throttle (I've never really liked cruise) so during the long stretch on the 5 the load should be varying reasonably.  From the comments so far, it seems like it's probably reasonable to take the C-max

[fbov]

Good move keeping threads consolidated.

 

I think you'll be fine, but you be the judge.

 

Once upon a time, cars came with "break-in" oil that was changed after 1500 miles. Some still do (Honda?).

 

Next you needed to run natural petroleum oil "until the engine was broken in" before you switched to synthetic oil.

 

Your C-Max comes with synthetic oil from the factory, and an engine oil monitor to tell when it needs changing. 

 

The bottom line is to follow manufacturer's recommendations. For more...

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/top-7-urban-legends-about-motor-oil.html

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/saturday-mechanic-blog/how-to-break-in-a-new-car

 

Have fun,

Frank