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Where's the Cabin Air Filter?


armoredsaint
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Videos:
http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1816-wheres-the-cabin-air-filter/?do=findComment&comment=36190
http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1816-wheres-the-cabin-air-filter/page-3?do=findComment&comment=61793

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http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1816-wheres-the-cabin-air-filter/?do=findComment&comment=39710
http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1816-wheres-the-cabin-air-filter/page-2?do=findComment&comment=52856

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Checked the manual and even the lack luster index and nothing, they do list a part # for it.

 

Where's it located, behind the glovebox?

Edited by Jus-A-CMax
Mod edited to add "how-to" links for videos/pics/text
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There's a panel below the glove box held in place by two screw / push caps over two posts.  When that is removed, the filter is to the left in the center area held in place by a U - clip.  It does look rather simple to change. But from the workshop manual it looks to perhaps be a tight fit (don't know the actual depth of the filter). 

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There's a panel below the glove box held in place by two screw / push caps over two posts.  When that is removed, the filter is to the left in the center area held in place by a U - clip.  It does look rather simple to change. But from the workshop manual it looks to perhaps be a tight fit (don't know the actual depth of the filter). 

 

thanks, i checked it out earlier when i was looking for the fuse panel below the glovebox to hardwire my radar detector.

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  • 4 weeks later...

That bothers me I have to push so much out of the way to get to the filter. The one video on youtube seems to show a few brakets to be removed as well.  @John those were the good days when they wanted you to find it. I replaced my 05 vibe filter many times after finding it under the box. That area in the cmax is a tight fit which might make me have to remove a chair to check clearence there or hope it can be found in a install package. I saw screws to get the box out but theres a tight knob on the right and haven't checked yet if thats the fuel reset

 or just another clip.

 

Any actual ford techs here that can say what it took for them to get into that area. I can remember when gm replaced an air actuator in a place like that they pulled the whole dash to get into it and that was a 40 dollar part and no warrenty. I just got the car recently though its one of the parts I hope to service myself once filter start showing up in Amazons distribution chain (my local walmart doesn't even have a fram replacement for either filter).

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Well if I ever have to change the cabin air filter myself it doesn't look like it will be as easy as my previous car a 2005 Saturn Vue Redline.  It was located under the hood at the base of the windshield right on the cowl, where it should be.  Why shove it under the dash where it is so hard to get to?  I'm sure there was a good reason for putting it there?  Like making sure the techs were the only ones to do it and they could charge for it.  Glad I took the extended warranty and have a second one behind the first when it runs out.

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  • 4 months later...

Anybody actually buy a replacement for this yet? If so where did you get it and do you have a part number?  Ford's Motorcraft web site does not list a part number for it (unless I am searching wrong).  Frams web site lists it as "NR"?

 

UPDATE:

I got online with Ford, it isn't in the Parts catalog  :drop:   But the part number is "CV6Z-19N619-A"  List Price $24.95

Edited by HannahWCU
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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

 

 

At 18K miles, it was past time to replace the cabin filter in our CMax so I looked around locally and no auto parts stores or walmart had any in stock.  Fram/fabreeze doesn't make one ATM so right now it's motorcraft or nothing thus I went with the above amazon link.  TIP:  if you buy two, you only get charged a dollar more for shipping thus saving $5 if order separately.  Besides, you're going to need another one down the road anyways.  Me, I got two CMax'es so it was a no brainer.

 

Installation was not easy and you really have to contort yourself to get it it.  You'll need a #15 torx bit or screwdriver to remove the one screw and a flash light is essential.   There isn't a ton of free space to remove or install it and I found you have to squish it a lot to make clearance; however, it did pop back into shape once in.   Overall, this is a crappy layout and I don't look forward to doing it again.   I you don't do your own oil changes then you probably won't want to tackle this.  

 

Interior side of filter at 18k miles:

 

83F63700-4DEC-4886-AF3F-27D6B32B903C_zps

 

 

Exterior side:

 

941B15F0-17C7-497F-B520-3FDB32C2A7A0_zps

 

 

I won't wait as long next time. 

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  • 1 month later...

Changed mine today at 19.5k miles (before watching the video) and it took less than 10 minutes.  My second one will take considerably less time (assuming I can still bend over and then get back up from the awkward position). :)   My CAF was not nearly as dirty as fotomoto's CAF (I'll probably wait longer next time - at least to 20k).

 

I wonder what Ford's shop time is for this? Do they charge in 15 minute TU?  Local Ford parts guy wanted to sell me a CAF for about $25 plus tax compared to less than $20 including shipping online.  When I said I can get one from a Ford dealer online shipped free priority mail for less than $20,  he said he couldn't discount his.  Ordered CAF Friday afternoon and arrived Tuesday around noon.  

 

Also, so one doesn't have to spend 25+ minutes watching the video, one can follow the steps below. You'll need a T20 bit / screwdriver (a T15 will be a loose fit but will work) and a light to see.

 

1) put passenger seat all the way back, remove passenger floor mat (if you have a mat over the carpet it might interfere with procedure) and locate fiber cover between under side of dash and floor held in place by 2 plastic caps on posts projecting down from under dash.

 

2) remove two plastic caps from posts (turn / pull caps from posts), slip post holes in fiber cover over posts, and pull fiber cover out

 

3) locate CAF cover with plastic squeeze tabs to the left near firewall under the passenger dash on the center console vertical surface.and remove screw at bottom of CAF cover with T20 bit

 

4) compress plastic tabs on CAF cover and while compressing pull cover off (pull down and out while compressing tabs)

 

5) grab CAF and pull / wiggle out of slot (note the foam seal is to the engine compartment)

 

6) squeeze new CAF on flexible pleated sides to make rigid  top and bottom come closer together as you insert top then bottom into CAF slot making sure the foam seal is towards the engine (it's not as hard as the video makes it appear) and then push / slide / wiggle remainder of CAF into slot

 

7) reverse steps 1) - 4)

Edited by Plus 3 Golfer
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FYI, I just ordered a cabin filter from Amazon; $19.00 with shipping.  The vendor (not Amazon) claims only a few available.

 

Oh man after seeing this I thought I paid more than that so I went back and checked my order but I paid roughly $16 shipped by buying two ($32 total) from Car Parts Kings.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PJDOSS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A311393O04YIYG

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  My CAF was not nearly as dirty as fotomoto's CAF (I'll probably wait longer next time - at least to 20k).

 

We have a lot of plowed, black farm land around here.  On some roads I typically drive, as far as the eye can see on both sides.   Combined that with a near constant gulf breeze to stir it up and then going past the recommended time frame :waiting:  and you can understand why mine was so  :cleaning:

 

Here's a view while riding my bike showing what I mean:

 

 0C513D6E-630C-4A8D-B498-8F93EB2BB8C3_zps

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  • 1 month later...

With the C-Max filter located under the dash, it leads me to conclude that the filter is downstream from the fan/heater core/evaporator.  On my past cars with the filter located under the hood/cowl panel, the filter was upstream/before the fan/heater core/evaporator.  I kind of like the idea of filtering the air before it get to those components, to keep them clean and dust free, but maybe filtering after those components is better for at delivering air that is dust/mildew/mold free...

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definitely have some mold brewing in my evaporator/core because it smells when the A/C is on and I reduce the fan speed after running for awhile.  Usually goes away if I run on vent for s short period and then go back on cabin recirculate.  Tried using some of that spray freshener in the vents but it didn't take it away.  Got to take Maxus in for the chime recall, I'll have them look into the foul air smell.

Edited by mtb9153
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mtb9153, people claim they have had success getting rid of the musty smell using Lysol sprayed in the vents and down the cabin air intake in the cowl area. The problem though is one needs to get the evaporator car and box saturated with the disinfectant which is hard to do by spraying in the vents.  Hopefully, the dealer will do yours under warranty.   In other forums, typically the dealer will do under warranty within first year or so and not much later as the cause is not usually a defect unless perhaps the evaporator core drain line line was somehow restricted.  Mine had a faint musty smell like yours from day one (December 2012) when first turning on the blower.  The smell would then diminish (or maybe we got use to it) as the blower ran. It wasn't until a few months later when we started using the AC more frequently, that the smell seemed to get worse (likely more moisture supporting the mold growth than in the winter).  I believe it was in May 2013  when we took it in for other work and had the dealer do the "musty smell treatment" that I described in another thread.  I also asked them to make sure the drain was not clogged.   

 

Big Rocco, as far as whether the cabin filter is before or after the blower / evaporator core, it's before as one doesn't want debris collecting on the core for obvious reasons as you describe.  When you change the filter, it's obvious that the air intake (on the dirty side of the filter) runs to the cowl area. Also,  I've had several cars with the cabin air filter under the cowl and one issue that is common is water leaks via poor seals especially if cowl drains become somewhat restricted from debris allowing water to collect up to the level of the seals during heavy downpours.  For that reason, I like the cabin filter under the dash although it does require a degree of flexibility to contort ones old body to change it. 

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definitely have some mold brewing in my evaporator/core because it smells when the A/C is on and I reduce the fan speed after running for awhile.  Usually goes away if I run on vent for s short period and then go back on cabin recirculate.  Tried using some of that spray freshener in the vents but it didn't take it away.  Got to take Maxus in for the chime recall, I'll have them look into the foul air smell.

There are a ton of FFH owners with this issue. Check out this 14 page thread. Unfortunately Ford doesn't have any other solution except the temporary one of spraying a chemical down the vents. The FFH & C-Max have the same AC parts so I was surprised to not have seen C-Max owners with the smelly AC issue. Although, some of the comments in the FFH thread indicate that the issue has to do more with the orientation of parts within the system rather than the actual parts used. This seems to be a problem that afflicts many manufacturers and many vehicle lines.

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There are a ton of FFH owners with this issue. Check out this 14 page thread. Unfortunately Ford doesn't have any other solution except the temporary one of spraying a chemical down the vents. The FFH & C-Max have the same AC parts so I was surprised to not have seen C-Max owners with the smelly AC issue. Although, some of the comments in the FFH thread indicate that the issue has to do more with the orientation of parts within the system rather than the actual parts used. This seems to be a problem that afflicts many manufacturers and many vehicle lines.

 

Our last 2 Ford's (MKX) stink, getting ready to spray the cmax for the 2nd time.

 

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The problem with the Ford solution to the musty odor in using YN-29 (combination of  an acrylic resin and powerful antimicrobial formula eliminates) maybe the method used in applying it (or the tech applying it) and hence why it works for some (like me) and not for others (Riggo on FFH forum).  

 

Also wab, it's not a lifetime cure.  It will "wear off" (protects for 2-3 years is what Ford says).  Mold growing in the HVAC box and on the evaporator core is a common problem across manufacturers.  The problem is moisture remaining in the box.  Get rid of the moisture and no problem.  So, running the blower or heater (as drdiesel suggests) after A/C use for a few minutes should "dry out" the box.

 

Here's an old VW TSB (around 2006) on the issue:

 Technical Background

Condensation is a normal characteristic in all A/C systems. If odor is noticeable without engine started, this may be due to mold and mildew in the passenger compartment, not from the A/C system.

Tip:
All other possible sources of unpleasant odor must be addressed before performing the following procedure.

Consider the following conditions before proceeding:

• Evaporator housing drain must be open and free of debris.
• Cabin must be sealed with no water ingress into passenger compartment.
• Plenum drains must be clear and free of debris.
• Pollen filter must be clean and free of moisture.

Production solution
Not applicable.

Service
Contaminants are effectively neutralized using the Aircomatic® II Ultrasonic Climate System Cleaner (VAS 6189A) and Airco-Clean® Ultrasonic Air Conditioning Treatment (VAS 6189/1). All other cleaning methods are no longer permitted.

• This procedure will be allowed only once per vehicle within the first 12 months of service.
• There must be an original customer complaint of specified odor symptom on repair order for this Technical Bulletin to apply. Adding on this procedure is not permitted.
• Subsequent applications, should they become necessary, will be customer's responsibility.
• Replacement of pollen filter under warranty is not allowed within the performance of this procedure. The pollen filter is covered only where specified at the appropriate maintenance interval.

 

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