Tire rotation

[nemonik]

So, how do you rotate its tires?

[C-MaxJaxon]

Page 330 of the Owner Guide has a diagram. Fronts go straight to the rear and rears cross when moving to the front. Scheduled maintenance section says to rotate every 10,000 miles.

[nemonik]

Obviousy.

 

But it doesn't come with a spare, nor a jack. So, I am supposed to jack it where? The manual doesn't say where. And what, do I use a jack stand to keep the car off the ground while jacking the far right corner?

 

The manual sez nothing about these problems.

 

I found a service DVD online for nearly $200. Nothing exists otherwise in regards to servicing the car yourself.

Edited November 15, 2012 by nemonik

[C-MaxJaxon]

There is another thread about jacking points here. No clear answer yet.

 

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?/topic/430-jacking-points/

 

A quality floor jack and jack stands should be used unless you have your own lift or a friend with one. No one should be using a spare tire jack to do routine maintenance like rotating tires IMO. They are for emergency use only. That is irrelevant since this car doesn't have one. I've never seen an owner manual that has detailed instructions on rotating tires or similar types of more complex maintenance.

[nemonik]

I have 3-ton jack, stands, and ramps. But a level surface, the spare, and the "emergency" jack has served me well to rotate the tires for 200k plus miles I've put on my Outback. Usually, the owner's manual covers at least the jack points. As to the service manual, I was thinking in terms of service beyond tire rotation.

Edited November 16, 2012 by nemonik

[BIG ROCCO]

Just under 1,000 miles on our C-Max, but for my other car and on past cars, I have usually jacked up the front with a floor jack on the front most crossmember, put in some jackstands, then use another floor jack under each lower control arm on the rear, one side at a time.  Why do I not use the same floor jack on the rear as the front - because I am lazy...and because I have 2 floor jacks :happy feet: .  I also have the luxury of an air compressor and an impact wrench (use for removal only!) and a clicker torque wrench.  I just rotated the tires on my 2012 LaCrosse on Monday, and it was a fair amount of work, even with all those conveniences...I wouldn't even attempt it without all the tools - better to pay someone else...or just leave them where they are until they wear out.  Costco (and I'm sure lots of other places) offers free tire rotations on tires purchased there.

[ScubaDadMiami]

I've had bad luck with tires in my last several vehicles, always from uneven wear.  The tires start to sound like snow tires.  I've had the alignment re-done, had suspension overhauled, and I've done rotations pretty regularly.  Every time I tried to make warranty claims, they always tell me that it doesn't cover uneven wear.  Mostly, I am told that I need to rotate  more often.

 

I got great tires from Costco, and I believe that they called for rotation at 6,000 miles, but I had the same issues there.  A mechanic recently told me that I should rotate every 3,000 miles, which sounds ridiculous to me.

 

The point is, I want to get it right on this car.  Is it because I was driving SUVs? (The only car I recall not having issues was a Lexus that was not an SUV style.)  Should I start paying for tire rotations before the scheduled 10,000 mile service?

 

I am not doing any kind of driving that should be the cause.

[plus 3 golfer]

Since I moved from SW PA in 1999, I've never had an alignment done on a car I've owned, never had uneven tire wire, haven't replaced any suspension parts, and rotate tires every 10k miles.  Mileage on 4 vehicles when I got rid of them were between 145k - 195k miles.

 

IMO, road conditions (especially potholes, uneven pavement and so forth) alter alignment slightly causing uneven tire wire and eventually the need for an alignment / tire rotation more frequently than 10k miles. Otherwise, with tires that last 40k+ miles rotation every 10k miles should wear the tires fairly evenly. One other point and that is I have been running higher pressure in my tires than recommended for quite some time.  My experience is that if I run the recommended pressure, the front tire edges wear faster than the middle (and I always buy Michelin :) ).

 

ScubaDad, what uneven wear are you getting?  I check my tires at least once a month for air pressure and always look for uneven wear.  I would suggest that you check the tires monthly, and if you see any uneven wear, get the tires rotated.  Otherwise, 10k should be fine.    If it's the front tire edges, try more air pressure.

[Skitime]

I though I had read somewhere to rotate the tires @ 5000 miles. Anything to that?

[ScubaDadMiami]

I was told, each time, that it was uneven wear, causing "cupping."

[HannahWCU]

Page 361 of the owners manual says to rotate the tires:

 

At every oil change

interval as indicated by

the information

display. Can be up to

10000 miles

(16000 km) or

12 months

 

 

I though I had read somewhere to rotate the tires @ 5000 miles. Anything to that?

[KAL Cmax]

SDM, were your SUVs independent rear suspension? Generally you need to rotate every oil change and replace the rear shocks/struts more often to avoid the cupping (feathered or high low spots on the outside edges).

 

My belief is they (SUVs) are designed to have weight in the back, if you don't this issue seems to happen more often. I use to work at a repair shop and saw this all the time. Some station wagons/5 door vehicles, minivans and vehicles similar to the C-Max are more prone to this.

 

My Highlander never had this issue, but I was carrying about 300 lbs of equipment. I only rotated the tire once at 6k and didn't do it again for 19k. One coworker carries the same amount of equipment with a Kia Forte 5 no issues. Another coworker owns a Saab 9-5 (no weight generally) with this issue. He replaced the struts and 10,000 miles later no issues.

 

I carry the same equipment in the C-Max now, and will rotate my tires every 10k.

Edited June 30, 2013 by KAL Cmax

[ScubaDadMiami]

SDM, were your SUVs independent rear suspension? Generally you need to rotate every oil change and replace the rear shocks/struts more often to avoid the cupping (feathered or high low spots on the outside edges).

 

My belief is they (SUVs) are designed to have weight in the back, if you don't this issue seems to happen more often. I use to work at a repair shop and saw this all the time. Some station wagons/5 door vehicles, minivans and vehicles similar to the C-Max are more prone to this.

 

My Highlander never had this issue, but I was carrying about 300 lbs of equipment. I only rotated the tire once at 6k and didn't do it again for 19k. One coworker carries the same amount of equipment with a Kia Forte 5 no issues. Another coworker owns a Saab 9-5 (no weight generally) with this issue. He replaced the struts and 10,000 miles later no issues.

 

I carry the same equipment in the C-Max now, and will rotate my tires every 10k.

I think you are getting at it, here.  It happened with two Explorers, a Tribute (Escape) and my Murano.  On the Murano, I did have the shocks and struts replaced, had the alignment done, got the tires balanced and rotated regularly, and kept up anything that should be maintained, and it still happened.  I would carry perhaps a couple hundred pounds of scuba gear at times, but I almost always used more like a car.

 

So, since the C-MAX is a smaller sized MPV, how will it be characterized?  Will it be more like a vehicle that has SUV suspension issues, or will it be more like a car that doesn't have these issues?  It would be nice to catch a break, in that regard.

 

I got the extended tire warranty, and the extended vehicle warranty.  So, if I keep up per the suggested schedule to maintain the C-MAX, I will hold Ford to task about the tires, if it comes to that. 

[KAL Cmax]

I also have a 2009 Murano, she only drives about 10k a year. So far no issues yet and I rotate every 10k (every other oil change). The Murano just hit 50k. Although I use it occasionally, it always carries about 150-250 lbs in it (3 kids can load you up).

 

SDM, it is a tough thing to narrow down so I think you are right in saying Ford recommended maintenance with the tire warranty, which I also have.

[Tom]

I bought a new, full sized tire for a spare.  When I have my tires rotated, I intend to put the spare on the ground and make one of my on-road tires the new spare.  Any suggestions as to placement of the new tire among the other on-road tires?

[KAL Cmax]

I bought a new, full sized tire for a spare. When I have my tires rotated, I intend to put the spare on the ground and make one of my on-road tires the new spare. Any suggestions as to placement of the new tire among the other on-road tires?

Is it a full size spare and matching rim?

 

If you rotate at 5k it won't matter where it goes, as long long as your taking the proper tire out of rotation.

 

I wouldn't recommend 10k for a rotation if this is what you plan on doing.

 

If you don't have a spare rim, it wouldn't be a cost effective approach to extend your tire life. I would save it and use it if needed. Then only by 3 new tires the next round.

Edited July 1, 2013 by KAL Cmax

[Tom]

Is it a full size spare and matching rim?

 

If you rotate at 5k it won't matter where it goes, as long long as your taking the proper tire out of rotation.

 

I wouldn't recommend 10k for a rotation if this is what you plan on doing.

 

If you don't have a spare rim, it wouldn't be a cost effective approach to extend your tire life. I would save it and use it if needed. Then only by 3 new tires the next round.

Yes, full sized.  Thanks for your input.

[ScubaDadMiami]

I though I had read somewhere to rotate the tires @ 5000 miles. Anything to that?

When I checked my mail today, I received a Welcome Kit from Ford.  I am guessing that everyone has received this.

 

Anyway, right in the booklet it says:

 

"First maintenance visit -- 5,000 miles

• Rotate and inspect tires

Second maintenance visit -- 10,000 miles

• Change engine oil and replace oil filter
• Rotate and inspect tires
• Perform Multi-Point Inspection"

[KAL Cmax]

SDM, I usually rotate @ 10k every other oil change @ 5k on my vehicles with minimal issues.

 

Doing a rotation @ 5k is probably recommended but I pay for it now (Oil changes and rotations).

 

My justification is I expect 50k out of the tires.

 

10 rotations @ $25 = $250

 

5 rotations @ $25 = $125

 

So for me to save a $125 in 2 years on tires is worth it. Living in New England your end up getting tires early for the winter sometimes too.

 

Not to mention the time you lose just for a rotation.

[ScubaDadMiami]

I just want to keep having zero issues.  Willing to do the little extra leg work, if that will assure it.  On the other hand, I don't want to spend extra time and money that doesn't need to be spent.  I've never been a "car" person before--though I guess you can see that the C-MAX has changed that.  Just want to get it right. 

 

Thanks for the experience of those in the know.  :salute:

[Arthur]

Don't only rotate the tires, get the car lined up 4 wheel alignment, I knew but didn't do it for 8000, so now I have 'cupped' tires, (rear)

dumb me, I have never purchased a new car that did not need 4 wheel alignment, and this was one of them, now I have a lot of noise and it is a pain in the ear, but I'll wear them out before I buy new just to punish my self.

 

[drdiesel1]

All this data is a RECOMMENDATION.  It's generalized information. Tires are subject to driving habits, tire pressures and balance. If you drive more highway than city, you can wait longer to rotate. If you drive more city, you'll find you need to do it more frequently.  Do you see that I'm avoiding time or miles. It's all based on your use, pressures, and driving habits.

 

Me personally, currently run 50 PSI in all 4 tires. I drive mostly city (70%-30%) and don't brake late or turn too fast.

 My schedule is set at 5K miles for now. I do all my own work, so it's easy for me to look at my tires and make decisions on what they need. Most owners neglect the balance aspect of tires and just rotate them. They don't worry about tire pressures and run whatever the shop sets them at. Most don't even check them. If they do are they set properly ? Is it according to

your driving habits and tire requirements, or just some random number they use ?

 

 Don't let some shop make these choices for you. It's something you need to control so you can get an idea of what needs to be done and when. Most shops don't see the same car all the time, so it's hard for them to give proper tire advise. Most drivers get the standard RECOMMENDATION and tire pressure settings.

 Only to find out to late, this isn't working and the tires are wearing bad or have now become scalped/cupped and need replacement.

 

Proper pressures, rotation and balance are all part of tire care. Leave one out and you'll find tire problems, but probably to late to save an otherwise good tire. Get a plan set and stick with it. Check the tire pressure at least once a month. For the 225/50/17's, 50 PSI is working perfect for my car and driving habits.

 

Here's my tires @ 3500 miles.

Edited September 29, 2013 by drdiesel1

[boilermax]

I just did the first oil change and tire rotation on my wife's C-Max in preparation for a lengthy road trip.  We've had the car since Nov. '12 and it has about 4800 miles on it.  Since she'll put only 6k miles per year on the car, I plan on an annual oil change and tire rotation schedule.

 

But I don't understand the need to rotate the tires.  They rotate every time she drives the car! :secret:

[ArizonaEnergi]

I'm at about 6,500 miles and one year and have been thinking about doing my own tire rotations, until I saw the recommended pattern in the manual.  That would be difficult to do without multiple jack stands or jacks or, like I have, a spare tire, which will help but it will still be a PITA!  Think I will wait for 10,000, who knows, I may be hit a meteor and avoid rotating them altogether!

 

 

 

[obob]

I generally replace my tires way before they officially need replacement.  The performance at 50% tread is not that great.  On my last vehicle, a minivan, for the first set of tires I rotated once and then replaced all four.  For the second set I basically did not do rotations, but replaced the front tires at around 50% tread.

 

Link that describes two schools of thought on rotation.

http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/tires_wheels/ques100_1.html

 

Here is a link with a type of wear that might lead to me getting a rotation or two if I notice it.

http://www.tyredamage.com/content/view/26/26/

Edited December 28, 2013 by obob