Check Engine Light--Issue Can't Get Fixed

[ScubaDadMiami]

I am having an issue, and I was wondering if anyone has a solution or knows what I should do next. It is now going on for several months, and my dealer, who seems to be trying, hasn't found the fix--so far.

 

Driving along, the check engine light goes on in steady yellow. Other than the light coming on and remaining on, the only other thing that tips me off to something being not right with my CMAX is that the fuel economy is not as good as it usually is.

 

I run a Vehicle Health Report. The report indicates that it is emissions related. I bring it to the dealer. They say that it is a sensor. They order and install the sensor. I am driving home from the dealer, and the light comes back on.

 

I run another Vehicle Health Report. Same issue. I go back to the dealer. This time they tell me that the trouble is that the fuel filler is allowing air to leak in, and they have to replace it. They order the part and install it.

 

I drive home, about 45 minutes or so away from the dealer, and I park in my garage. In a couple of days, I have to run some errands. I get in, pull out of the garage, and the check engine light comes back on again. I run another Vehicle Health Report, and it still shows the same issue.

 

Any hints about what this could be and what to do next? I have an extended warranty to cover this, and I bought it through my dealer.

 

Other than this, my 2013 SEL now has about 34,000 miles on it, a lifetime MPG of just under 48 (it was above 48, but then I drove around for the past couple of months with the issue, and now it has dropped), and it has been a dependable car. The back and forth to the dealer, and rental cars, is getting tiresome, and I would really like for this to get fixed on the next attempt.

 

Thanks.

[plus 3 golfer]

What do the Service Orders say?  The dealer should show the Diagnostic Trouble Codes that triggered the CEL.  Has the dealer contacted Ford techs for guidance?

 

Take your car to a different dealer as they may have better techs or have seen something similar before.  If the dealer can't fix the issue with one more attempt, open a case with Ford.

 

This is the reason I buy the service manuals and a scanning tool (ForScan).  There may be many potential causes for the DTC(s).  So, the dealer (and Ford) will only try one fix at a time.  Otherwise, Ford won't reimburse the dealer for the labor or parts to replace ALL potential parts that could trigger the CEL at one time.  Having the Ford documentation (service manual) and ability to look at data (ForScan) while the car is being driven gives the owner "ammunition" to press Ford to get the issue fixed.   

[kostby]

Great advice from Plus3Golfer, and a few more details.

 

Without purchasing anything, you can put the dash display in Engineering Test Mode and read any recent DTC code(s) yourself.

(I found the ETM mode details in an old thread here in the C-MAX forums, but I can't quickly locate that thread now.)

 

Then post any DTC codes here, and maybe Plus3Golfer or Paul or someone else with access to the manuals can look them up and give you some insight without spending more money or wasting more time troubleshooting at the dealership.

 

To enter Engineering Test Mode, hold the left steering wheel OK button when turning on the car. (Not actually starting, simply turning ON).

Keep holding the button in until you see 'Engineering Test Mode' banner and the yellow letters ET in the upper left of the left dash display.

 

Then use the up/down arrows of the left steering wheel button to scroll through the display until you get to the DTC Hist Curr screen.

 

If you own a recent smartphone, tablet, or laptop, you can purchase an inexpensive code scan module in either Bluetooth or Wifi. The module plugs into one of the two C-MAX Diagnostic ports under the dash and permits real-time reading and recording the info in real time while driving using an app such as FORScan or Torque.

Once you have the scanner, feature-limited free demo versions of FORScan and Torque are available in the Android or Apple App store for your specific device. I've only used the free version of the apps, and only long enough to verify that my scanner was working.

 

 

[kostby]

Great advice from Plus3Golfer, and a few more details.

 

Without purchasing anything, you can put the dash display in Engineering Test Mode and read any recent DTC code(s) yourself.

(I found the ETM mode details in an old thread here in the C-MAX forums, but I can't quickly locate that thread now.)

 

Then post any DTC codes here, and maybe Plus3Golfer or Paul or someone else with access to the manuals can look them up and give you some insight without spending more money or wasting more time troubleshooting at the dealership.

 

To enter Engineering Test Mode, hold the left steering wheel OK button when turning on the car.

(Not actually starting, simply turning ON. I have an SE, not the SEL, so I simply switch the key to On, not Start).

Keep holding the Left steering wheel OK button in until you see 'Engineering Test Mode' banner and the yellow letters ET in the upper left of the left dash display.

 

Then release the OK button and use the up/down arrows of the left steering wheel controls to scroll through the ET display screens (there are quite a few!) until you get to the DTC Hist Curr screen.

 

If you own a recent smartphone, tablet, or laptop, you can purchase an inexpensive code scan module in either Bluetooth or Wifi. The module plugs into one of the two C-MAX Diagnostic ports under the dash and permits real-time reading and recording the info in real time while driving using an app such as FORScan or Torque.

Once you have the scanner, feature-limited free demo versions of FORScan and Torque are available in the Android or Apple App store for your specific device. I've only used the free version of the apps, and only long enough to verify that my scanner was working.

Edited December 31, 2016 by kostby

[ScubaDadMiami]

Thanks! Let me see what I see when I look at the codes.

[ScubaDadMiami]

The only area that had any codes read as follows:

 

Man Date: 150915

 

B&A Bytes: 1F F0 62 47 39 CC D8 28 60 3B 98 01 06 C8 29 AF

 

On another screen:

 

PDS: 1

[plus 3 golfer]

The DTC are listed under the ETM screen that shows "DTC HIST CURR".  The more I dig into this from other forums and the service manual (see below in RED), the more I believe ETM DTCs only apply to the instrument panel cluster (IPC module) troubleshooting.

 

Someone posted codes one time that were shown on the DTC ETM screen. Problem was that the codes were not in the standard OBDII format (P,C,U,Bxxxx format). I have yet to find the "key" on the internet to translate these codes shown on the ETM screen to the OBDII format shown in the service manual. 

 

Here's what hybridbear says: "The "key" can be found by purchasing an OASIS subscription. It defines all the codes stored by all the modules. PM me if you have codes that you are wondering about and I'll look them up in OASIS. The mods at the Fusion Hybrid & Energi Forums share an OASIS subscription since it helps so much in tracking TSBs, SSMs & more. The mods here may want to consider doing the same thing. The subscription is about $100 per year."  A subscription to OASIS would be nice but not for $100 a year.  

 

Here are excerpts of what Ford says about the ETM DTC screen in the service manual:

 

To enter the IPC engineering test mode or dealer test mode, begin with the ignition OFF. Press and hold the LH steering wheel switch OK button. Place the ignition ON and continue to hold the button for 5-8 seconds until the display indicates ET in the upper LH corner of the message center. Press the up or down arrow buttons to navigate through each of the display windows. To exit the IPC dealer test mode, press and hold the OK button for 5-8 seconds or place the ignition in OFF. Each down arrow button press advances the viewing window to the next set of items. ...

• DTC HIST CURR
  
• xxxxxx x x
  
• xxxxxx x
  

Displays all of the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) set (history and current Diagnostic Trouble Codes [DTCs]). An X in the HIST or CURR column means the DTC is active. Three Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) display on each screen. If more Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present, there will be additional screens listing them. If there are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in history or current, the display will only be the title row. 

[scottwood2]

I think this might be similar to my problem with my 08 Chevy pickup.   Very small emissions leak.  So small that it went away in the winter months. I expect it to come back in the spring.  These are hard to find and my research stated to have a smoke test performed to help find the leak.  They pressurize with smoke and look for the leak in the fuel system.   I did not have this done yet.   Small leaks are hard to find sometimes.  The code can only point you in the direction of what the problem is.  

 

Maybe this is not the same but it sounds similar. 

[ScubaDadMiami]

I think this might be similar to my problem with my 08 Chevy pickup.   Very small emissions leak.  So small that it went away in the winter months. I expect it to come back in the spring.  These are hard to find and my research stated to have a smoke test performed to help find the leak.  They pressurize with smoke and look for the leak in the fuel system.   I did not have this done yet.   Small leaks are hard to find sometimes.  The code can only point you in the direction of what the problem is.  

 

Maybe this is not the same but it sounds similar. 

They did test with smoke.

[ScubaDadMiami]

If there are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in history or current, the display will only be the title row. 

 

 

I believe that this is the case, in my instance. I'll check again, but if I had seen a code on any of the screens, I would have reported it. I scrolled through all of the screens.

[ScubaDadMiami]

Everything is finally back to normal! I can't say what exactly was the final fix that made the difference. The only thing that I got from the dealer was that they contacted Ford and did what Ford said to do.

 

My lifetime average got killed while I drove thousands of miles with the C-MAX not yet fixed, which is what the dealer said would happen. However, I am just glad to have my car back in tip-top condition.

[RMFMARINE]

I have a 2013 Cmax SE and the Engine Service light started staying on about  1 week ago.

I followed procedure posted here to get into Engineering Test Mode. The code I found was C46B86 X. 

Anyone out there that can tell me the diagnosis?

Much appreciated. 

RMFMARINE.

[plus 3 golfer]

I believe ETM does not store all DTCs for the car but only data which affect the instrument panel displays (IPC).  The code C46B86 is U046B:86 and relates to invalid compass data from the GPS module. I and others have had DTCs which were not stored by ETM.   If the Engine light is on, go to Autozone or another auto store and they should be able to read most Ford codes.  But IMO, if you really want to access DTCs and data from you C-Max, get the FORScan App for smartphones and an OBDII adapter to connect to the OBDII port to access the data.  Search FORScan under my name here.

 

U046B:86

Invalid Data Received From Global Positioning System Module: Signal Invalid

This DTC sets when the IPC receives invalid compass data from the GPSM . RETRIEVE and REPAIR all non-network Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in the GPSM . REFER to: Information and Entertainment System (415-00A Information and Entertainment System - General Information - Vehicles With: AM/FM/CD/SYNC, Diagnosis and Testing). REFER to: Information and Entertainment System (415-00B Information and Entertainment System - General Information - Vehicles With: AM/FM/CD/SYNC/Touchscreen Display, Diagnosis and Testing).

 

https://forscan.org/home.html

[disasterkitten]

I'm having a similar issue. Due to COVID, I'm working from home so the car isn't driven much, hence the gaps between lights coming back on. The car (2013 C-MAX SEL) is at 97,000+ miles, but other than the check engine light I have no complaints. 

 

April 2020: check engine light comes on, steady.
Dealer notes: P0302 (#2 misfire). Checked mode 6 - found all cylinders had some misfires. relative compression test, good. Replaced all spark plugs., reset kam and relearned misfire monitor. Retest, good.

 

June 2020: Check engine light back on, steady.
Dealer notes: P219A air fuel imbalance. Found o-ring leaking air into cylinders, replaced o-ring going into head. 

 

July 2020: Again.

Unfortunately, I can't put my hands on the paperwork to see dealer notes, but it was different codes same issue.

 

August 2020: Again.

Another misplaced paperwork. Replaced a $535 part that required rekeying all electronic keys. 

 

September 2020: AGAIN.
Reached back out to dealer, but have not dropped the car back off yet.

Tried the left ok light to find codes, but DTC History Current was empty.
Also tried the poke the refill funnel into the capless tank and drove it around a few blocks, but didn't turn off. And now I have something about a tire kit to clear. 

 

I'm losing faith in the dealer, but I've also paid a good deal of money for an issue still not fixed six months later.

Despite the fact this appears to be a common problem with C-Max, I'm just not ready to give up the car. It is making me question purchasing another when I do, though. 

 

Any C-Max whispers who have an idea of why this engine light just will not stop coming back on? 

[Stevem7]

I have my 2015 Cmax H back to the dealer for the third time. They replaced everything associated with a PO2450 code...........the check engine light still comes on. Not sure what to do at this point.

 

[grege]

6 hours ago, Stevem7 said:

I have my 2015 Cmax H back to the dealer for the third time. They replaced everything associated with a PO2450 code...........the check engine light still comes on. Not sure what to do at this point.

 

Stevem7,

 

Your dealer should have access to Ford's "help line" which allows them to collaborate with other shops and ford specialists that have fought the same issues.  Basically, pretty much every "problem" with these cmaxes has now been seen.  Took ours a while to sort out a parasitic electrical drain on our 2017 cmax, but eventually took this route to win (fingers crossed).

 

Greg 

[C-MaxA2]

I had codes (can't remember which one) on my 2004 Ford Focus ZTW Wagon and had a dealer and 2 other garages throw parts (various sensors and an idle control valve) at it until someone on-line said to use Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant /injector cleaner and it worked!    I had used Chevron Techron and it cleared the code but only for 2-4 weeks before it re-appeared.  The Lucas stuff worked and it didn't come back on. I spent $900 on parts and labor and it was the only thing that worked. 

[Stevem7]

SOLVED! After the dealer replaced the filler tube which didn't solve the PO2450 code, they replaced the connecting hose (FV6Z 9D333 C) ......engine light gone!

[Gal with car problems]

Can anyone tell me what the dtc for c46b86 for a 2013 Ford C-Max sel means?

Thanks!

[Jrb]

CAn we read engine codes on 2017 cmax without a reader tool?

[cr08]

On 11/9/2021 at 9:45 PM, Jrb said:

CAn we read engine codes on 2017 cmax without a reader tool?

You can through engineering mode. Hold the ok button on the left of the steering wheel while starting the vehicle. The left side display on the dash will show a Test/engineering mode. You can then use the up/down arrows to cycle through different info and in here you will find any DTC's stored.

 

Personally, I recommend picking up at least a cheap Bluetooth OBD dongle and then check out the ForScan application (Windows, iPhone, and Android). This is a Ford specific application and will be able to show Ford specific codes that a generic reader may not. And there's other useful functions in the app as well like being able to read all the live data from the various modules even Ford only PIDs. $5.99 for the mobile app (Windows version is free currently, but has a paid license to access stuff like module firmware updating which most people won't need) and the Bluetooth OBD dongles generally run around $10-$20. Any will work for basic diagnostic work.