fcfcfc Posted August 6, 2020 Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 Go out to start car, totally dead. Pressing the start button does nothing. Repeat several time then responds. Battery is good and only about 1 year old. No codes show indicating problem (Ford dealer looked at car). Other general codes were cleared, maint "stuff". Got it back from dealer and it just did it again. Third time hitting start button turned on car. is the start button bad or an associated relay etc.. Power from the 12v battery is not being allowed to "turn on" car. Suggestions or history of this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus 3 golfer Posted August 7, 2020 Report Share Posted August 7, 2020 So, when you open door, nothing happens? No lights and so forth? Car knows when door is open. So, when you push start button and FOB is present, you should get a message if car won’t go to ready to drive. Is it third try, both times? I believe fuel shutoff reset after there is an emergency shutoff of fuel (for example, accident) may be cycling PB three times to reset. There is a recent thread on this. How long was car off after charging the times the issue happened? If it happens again, can you measure your 12 V battery voltage to eliminate flaky battery before it starts. Low battery voltage has been known to present all types of issues with modules. One of the first things that happens is HVB is connected and DCDC converter powers the 12V system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fcfcfc Posted August 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2020 12V battery is fine. Was current and voltage tested at dealership. I have to keep track if it is always 3 times, but I don't think so. One time, the first time it happened I believe, my wife got in and totally dead, zero lights, zero everything. She than plugged the car in again, blue circle came on as it would, she unplugged it and tried again. It then responded. Problem is defining an exact "series of events" that gets it to work, rather than a bunch of random attempts. Last time it happened she was just in a parking lot and on the third time it responded. No plug in done. All times I believe the car was in full EV mode with battery power still available for drive train. Another-words, the car was not using the gas genset when turned off. I gave her a different "key" today to use (Mine), just to see if any difference is noticed. Between software, related hardware and general mechanicals, the possibilities are extensive. Intermittents.... gotta live them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billyk24 Posted August 8, 2020 Report Share Posted August 8, 2020 This "electrically dead" vehicle has happened to my 2017 Energi 2x in the first 4 months of ownership but none since. Owners on the facebook site have also reported on this issue. I keep mine on a trickle charger when in the garage and overnight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmaxdad Posted August 9, 2020 Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 On the 2014 Energi we own, the battery was constantly running dead. Looked like more than just a battery, it could have been parasitic drain so the dealer serviced it in 2017 under warranty. They decided to reprogram "multiple modules." Apparently there have been software updates which fix battery drain. So maybe that is where to start. The ODB voltage of "pin 16" on our state inspection was 12.2 in dec. 2017 -- soon after that is when we had the service and also replaced the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestevens Posted August 10, 2020 Report Share Posted August 10, 2020 I've never had the parasitic drain issue with my 2013 SEL but from what I've read it seems like one or more of the modules, like the radio gets stuck in a certain state where it never goes to "sleep" even when the car is shut down and thus draws down the 12V. I HAVE had an issue with dead battery, locked out, etc where I had to use the embedded key in the FOB to open the door and perform the FOB to steering wheel start. In that case the 12V battery tested good at the dealership but I had them replace it anyway and the problems went away. They really didn't want to replace it because the instruments showed it was good and they thought I would be mad if it didn't fix the issues. After 7 years the car just needed a new battery -- costs about $200 to replace at dealership. Hybrids can exhibit lots of weird issues with a low 12V battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestevens Posted August 10, 2020 Report Share Posted August 10, 2020 There are definitely some bugs in the software too -- if you do unexpected things they didn't test for -- like open the passenger side door instead of the driver side door and start the car -- go to shut the car off from the driver's side and the dash and/or touch screen never fade out -- stuff like that. If I see any sort of weirdness like that I go to the driver's door and cycle the engine on and off the way 90% of drivers would every day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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