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Photo

Installing The Torklift Central Hitch

Hitch Install TorkLift

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50 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   rtshinn

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 08:45 AM

Ok, finally installed my Torklift 2" hitch. Went fairly smoothly for a one person install.

The instastruction sheets were ok, but man the pictures were very crappy. It really doesn't matter because it's so simple, once you are under there if you can't figure out what to do, you shouldn't be under the car. lol

 

Pulled the car up on two ramps, and used two jack stands to hold the hitch close to the car while installing.

 

Made a couple of minor goofs.

1. Started screwing in the driver's side when I realized I forgot about the muffler hanger staring me in the face

2. One center bolt was cross threading, but I was able to take it out and get it started properly

3. I bought a torque wrench specifically for this install, but none of my 13 mm sockets fit it, and I had no adapters that would work. Since it was getting dark, I ended up tightening them up as best I could. I'll get an adapter and go back and check them later.... really...

 

I'm sure it took less than an hour to do.









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#22 OFFLINE   TorontoEnergi

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Posted 30 July 2013 - 10:49 PM

I was wondering which Thule 4 bike carrier you purchased.  Was it the Vertex or Apex and was it the swing model?  Have you had any problems putting 4 bikes on it.  Thule recommends only putting 4 bikes on a class 2 hitch and the 2" Torklift is a class 1.

 

Purchased the torklift hitch four months ago and it has been great for my Thule 4 bike carrier.  I have even pulled a small Harbor Freight type trailer(a foldable 4x8 single axle) to Lowes for a fews items with no noticeable impact on performance or MPG.  Installation went rather easily considering I installed it laying down in the garge by myself using hand powered tools.  Holding it up so the bolts could be started was the most difficult task for me.  So far it has been a great add on for the C-Max. :dogwalk:



#23 OFFLINE   BIG ROCCO

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Posted 31 July 2013 - 10:34 PM

I measured it at about 40 pounds.  I don't think the 3,800# C-Max notices!

 

 

Yeah - I agree, but the car manufacturers are leaving spare tires and jacks (which probably weight about the same as the hitch) off cars, supposedly for fuel economy purposes



#24 OFFLINE   ArizonaEnergi

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Posted 01 August 2013 - 01:19 AM

Yeah - I agree, but the car manufacturers are leaving spare tires and jacks (which probably weight about the same as the hitch) off cars, supposedly for fuel economy purposes

Fortunately I have personally lost 40# over the past 15 months so my car is at net zero!

Edited by ArizonaEnergi, 01 August 2013 - 01:20 AM.

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#25 OFFLINE   fwroberts

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Posted 31 August 2013 - 09:05 PM

Thanks for the posts on the torklift. I'll be ordering the 2" soon...

 

Rick



#26 OFFLINE   timber725

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Posted 09 December 2013 - 01:53 PM

Installed the hitch receiver this morning.  Removing the plastic wrap packaging was the first big challenge.  Second was trying to bend the tab enough.  Thanks for the advice. 

I cut the tab off completely with a dremel.  (After 3 attempts to bend.... install.. uninstall... repeat )



#27 OFFLINE   Jennifer Werner

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Posted 03 May 2014 - 06:25 AM

My 1 1/4" torklift is scheduled to arrive today.  Is it possible to install without ramps?  Also, any tips doing handling this solo would be appreciated.  



#28 OFFLINE   ArizonaEnergi

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Posted 03 May 2014 - 07:53 AM

Ramps not needed. Just get some phonebooks or similar objects to support the hitch close to the bottom of the car and you should be able to get the bolts started on one side then the other.

Don't forget to bend the tab first! And in the right direction!

#29 OFFLINE   Smiling Jack

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Posted 03 May 2014 - 11:58 AM

I cut the tab off completely with a dremel.  (After 3 attempts to bend.... install.. uninstall... repeat )

 

What's that tab supposed to be good for?


Edited by Smiling Jack, 03 May 2014 - 11:59 AM.


#30 OFFLINE   ArizonaEnergi

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Posted 03 May 2014 - 12:49 PM

What's that tab supposed to be good for?

My guess it was used in the manufacturing process on the line to move what it's a part of around.
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#31 OFFLINE   Smiling Jack

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Posted 03 May 2014 - 01:24 PM

My guess it was used in the manufacturing process on the line to move what it's a part of around.

 

Good guess, thanks



#32 OFFLINE   Jennifer Werner

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 09:09 AM

I've been able to bend the tab, but it's not enough.  Basically, it's like a fat u shape.  Any tips/hints on how to squeeze the two sides together?  I don't have a dremel, otherwise I think I would have gone that route by now.   



#33 OFFLINE   ArizonaEnergi

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 09:22 AM

I think I used a hammer to smash it down, but may have had the same problem and ended up unbending it and trying again and getting a lower bending point. Good luck!

#34 OFFLINE   Smiling Jack

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 07:00 PM

I've been able to bend the tab, but it's not enough.  Basically, it's like a fat u shape.  Any tips/hints on how to squeeze the two sides together?  I don't have a dremel, otherwise I think I would have gone that route by now.   

 

Hacksaw, sabre saw, reciprocating saw, big file, or some combination of those?

 

Or the brute force solution:  Grinder !!



#35 OFFLINE   fbov

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Posted 05 May 2014 - 11:50 AM

Installed one last weekend. The trick is to start the bend with pliers, so it bends at the base of the tab. You don't bend far this way, just enough that when you take a hammer to it, you can get the whole tab to bend back. It lost paint, but not primer. Hoping for minimal rust...

 

Looking at pic #5 in post #1, his problem is the bend started too high. Start it with pliers and bend at the base; just 10-15 degrees is all you need to give the hammer a weak point to exploit.

 

I have ramps, but only used them so I could use a creeper. I'm also curious how one might use phone books or a jack to position the hitch, as I had to start off-center, angle it up then shift it toward center while lifting to clear the center hanger. Good upper body workout...

 

And make sure the drivers' side threads are clear before you try to hold the hitch in position with one hand while threading a screw into clogged threads with the other!

 

Have fun,

Frank



#36 OFFLINE   JohnnOhio

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Posted 20 May 2014 - 08:10 PM

FedEx delivered my torklift econo hitch today. I got one with the 2" receiver. I'll be installing it tomorrow. I have a swing away bike rack on the way to. Hope I get it for Memorial weekend. Be nice to go for a bike ride on a rails to trails. Guess I can always drive my truck.



#37 OFFLINE   varmonter

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Posted 29 March 2015 - 06:56 PM

Is there a towing capacity for these vehicles.My old vw said 1000 lbs.Can this hitch be used to tow?



#38 OFFLINE   ArizonaEnergi

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Posted 29 March 2015 - 07:14 PM

Is there a towing capacity for these vehicles.My old vw said 1000 lbs.Can this hitch be used to tow?

Ford says its zero -- as in not approved for towing. I would not hesitate to tow a small utility trailer carrying a 100-200# load, but that's just me. The hitch is certainly sturdy enough.

Edited by ArizonaEnergi, 29 March 2015 - 07:15 PM.


#39 OFFLINE   camazu

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 12:22 PM

Hello everyone.

I just leased a 2016 C-Max Hybrid SEL. It has parking sensors in the rear bumper. I was thinking that if I install a hitch-mounted bike rack (kuat nv), the rack will interfere with the sensors when I try to reverse into my driveway. What I mean is that they sensor in the middle will always detect an object (the rack) very close, rendering the entire system useless when the rack is installed.

 

Can anyone opine on this though being correct?  Did any of your run into this problem? 

 



#40 OFFLINE   ArizonaEnergi

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Posted 21 April 2016 - 12:31 PM

Hello everyone.

I just leased a 2016 C-Max Hybrid SEL. It has parking sensors in the rear bumper. I was thinking that if I install a hitch-mounted bike rack (kuat nv), the rack will interfere with the sensors when I try to reverse into my driveway. What I mean is that they sensor in the middle will always detect an object (the rack) very close, rendering the entire system useless when the rack is installed.

 

Can anyone opine on this though being correct?  Did any of your run into this problem? 

Every time we take our bikes somewhere!  You just use the control on the steering wheel to shut off the alarm for that trip.  No big deal other than having to do it every time.


Edited by ArizonaEnergi, 21 April 2016 - 12:31 PM.

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