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My first go around with this problem was resolved by pushing down on the top of this connector.   Then it came back when I finally figured out how to separate the connector.  I cleaned the 4 pins with CRC contact cleaner, and reassembled.  Code came back.  Screwed with it for a few hours... then decided to sleep on it.  Today I took the connector apart again and sprayed isopropl alcohol into both sides (male and female) then blew it out real good.  I inspected the sides of the orange connector and lightly sanded those surfaces.  I squared off the flat bottom of the 3 'bumps' that engage the latch.  I had scribed where the top/bottom connectors before I had take it apart.  When I inserted the plug, I heard a distinctive click and the connector male part went much deeper into the female side.  Problem resolved!

Had the same problem but also had a P0D59.    Alldata gave me this:   -  Inspect inline connector C1824 and SOBDM (secondary on-board diagnostic control module A) C4455B for being fully seated.     -  These are unique 3-step connectors. A series of 2 audible clicks should be heard when connecting.     -  When fully seated the Connector Position Assurance (CPA) clip and the connector body touch.   My first go around with this problem was resolved by pushing down on the top of this connector.   Then it came back when I finally figured out how to separate the connector.  I cleaned the 4 pins with CRC contact cleaner, and reassembled.  Code came back.  Screwed with it for a few hours... then decided to sleep on it.  Today I took the connector apart again and sprayed isopropl alcohol into both sides (male and female) then blew it out real good.  I inspected the sides of the orange connector and lightly sanded those surfaces.  I squared off the flat bottom of the 3 'bumps' that engage the latch.  I had scribed where the top/bottom connectors before I had take it apart.  When I inserted the plug, I heard a distinctive click and the connector male part went much deeper into the female side.  Problem resolved!    

Finally! after several years of talking to the dealer, they said Ford provided a software update that would work to allow the FordPass app to communicate to the 4G modem! Now I can lock, unlock remote start, etc from my phone. This was for a 2017 C-Max Energy SE. 

I bought my C-max Hybrid in 2020 because a friend recommended it.  It has just a little over 60,000 miles on it.  I take it in for the yearly oil change and checkup and have had no major problems so far.  It's the absolute perfect care for me.  It came with all the bells and whistles I could ask for.  My Maxi spoils me. 🙂  I can't imagine why they stopped making them.

Shifting into Low doesn't try to keep a constant speed, the hill descent control does.  Personally, I'd rather keep it in L and manage the speed with the accelerator pedal.   I *think* that the loopy arrow over the battery display on the left screen is only shown when friction braking is applied, but I'm not sure about that.   When you plug the charger back in, the car wakes up and checks stuff; it will go back to sleep when it's satisfied.   The indicator on the lower right lights when the doors are locked.  Yes, it should be a button, but it isn't.   I consider it a bug that the car doesn't keep the 12v battery topped up when plugged in.  If I'm going to leave my car undriven for long periods, or in cold snaps like this, I use the fob to start it occasionally, just to try to take care of the 12v.   I suspect that they used those beefy cables to attach the battery because that wouldn't require a special part.   At the end of each trip, the left screen briefly shows per-trip stats, including how much regen you get; I typically get about 20%.   Folklore indicates that the high-voltage battery will last longer if you keep acceleration low, and use EV Later if you're going over 45mph.  My 2013 Energi still has 20 miles in the HVB, so I tend to believe that.  I use EV Later whenever I'm going farther than one exit on the highway, or when there are hills to be climbed; my town is sliced by a highway, it's damned convenient to use it to get to the other side of town, and I'll use the HVB for that distance.

Thank you for your answers.I have been driving without switching off the engine for half a day and it has gone back to normal mode.

I just acquired a 2014 Energi from my sister-in-law who, sadly, cannot drive anymore, & I'm learning more & more about this car.   My sis-in-law never plugged it in, she drove it in hybrid mode all the time. She bought it in 2017 with 22k miles, when I got it had 33k, lol. She always took it to the dealer for service, oil change every 6 months, all the recalls, & I see a fairly new Motorcraft 12v battery in there. In later years, the only time it ran was to the pharmacy & back. When I first got it, we drove home (50 miles) at night, mainly using ICE but not really running it hard. One day after picking up my 6 year old granddaughter, we got on the main road & she said "you gotta go fast grandpa", so I pushed it a little harder. OMG, the smokescreen I left behind me, I looked like a skywriter! It dissipated for the most part but could see a little lingering smoke. I thought I blew something up, got it home, checked the oil, full & very clean. I can just assume I blew out the water built up in the exhaust from all those years of putting around town. I did that again, got a little bit of vapor blowing out. Since then we have taken a fairly long trip using ICE only (EV later mode), no more skywriting, lol.

That's what that button is for! So I can use that button to hold the speed on a downhill while increasing regen without using the brake pedal? Would shifting to "Low" have the same effect? Will hill descent control disengage upon stepping on the throttle?   Is there any way to tell when the friction brakes start applying?   I have noticed the light on the 120v charger stops blinking showing full charge but if I leave it plugged in, it will start blinking again, is that from the DC-DC charging the 12v? I have had it plugged in now for over 24 hours & the light has remained solid. I presume the 12v is now fully charged as well.   I think my sis-in-law drove super short trips a lot. In addition to her never plugging it in, I think that contributed to the 12v battery's demise. Now I know how to keep it topped up!   Yes, the 2014 has this, along with a line that rises & falls showing charge & discharge. Using the cruise control makes the green ECO light come on, will that provide more regen than manually trying to maintain constant speed?     One other question I have. There is an indicator on the lower right corner of the radio control panel just below & to the right of the volume/tuning knob. There is a symbol associated with this in the shape of a lock, sometimes the yellow light is on, sometimes off. What is this indicator? It looks like a button, but it does not depress.    Thanks for all your answers, I really appreciate the help!! This is quite a learning curve.

I may miss some questions, but will try to cover everything:   There's no conventional engine starter on either the hybrid or Energi models. The engine is cranked by the starter/generator motor in the transmission as part of the hybrid system and is directly powered by the HVB. The 12v battery is just used to wake up the various computer modules and activates the HVB contactors so it can take over. But it still needs beefy cables as it still has other sizable 12v loads no different than a traditional ICE only vehicle plus additional unique 12v loads like the electric power steering, electric water pump, etc.. The DC-DC converter takes place of a traditional alternator, converting power from the HVB down to the 12-14v to charge the 12v battery and provide running power to all the 12v systems. It is capable of providing up to ~140 amps of power and is programmed to behave like a traditional alternator in many respects. It runs at all times when the vehicle is running even when the engine is off. Much like an ICE only vehicle, the 12v battery should be able to be sufficiently maintained under normal driving conditions, even without plugging in, as long as you don't drive super short trips constantly.   The HVB is able to be charged in a number of ways: Via plugging it in for Energi models or via regen braking or the engine directly charging it while cruising. Regen can happen while actively braking, coasting, or using cruise control/hill descent control. Any time you see the upper arrow on the gauge in the cluster (I am not sure if the 2014 models still had this. Ford removed it in some later model years), charge is going back in. HVB charge level does not impact the DC-DC converter in any significant fashion that I am aware of.   For Energi models while plugged in and the HVB is charging, the onboard charger, separate from the DC-DC, will provide a minimal amount of 12v support to keep the car awake during the process. Once the HVB is completely charged, it will top up the 12v battery before putting the vehicle to sleep completely. No further 12v battery maintaining will be done in this state until the vehicle is woken up again (ie: Locking/unlocking, opening a door, etc. when everything begins to light up inside)   The 'second battery gauge' is simply showing the hybrid portion of the battery charge. There's only one single HVB and it is software segmented between of the plug-in charge and the depleted hybrid only operation. Once the plug-in charge is depleted and that second gauge shows, it will fluctuate up and down normally as it is driven and normal charge/discharge cycles happen of the HVB. When in this depleted charge mode, the 'EV Auto' mode you're stuck in behaves the same as EV Later.   The brake pedal is specifically designed in these vehicles that under light application it does not put pressure on the friction brakes but engages regen at various levels depending on pedal pressure. The further the pedal is applied, you start physically applying friction brakes as well. Low gear just engages extra off-pedal regen. Unlike an ICE only vehicle, it will not affect how the vehicle operates while accelerating. It should NOT be conflated with one pedal driving for a few reasons. It will not bring you to a complete stop on its own. Regen effect will start to taper off down under 5-10mph. Also the brake lights will only activate with the brake pedal applied.   Using cruise control and hill descent control (The button on the left side of the gearshift) will also apply regen in their own way. Cruise control will maintain speed via deceleration as well as acceleration. Under decel it will focus on regen as much as possible and has methods to bring in full ICE based engine braking and the friction brakes if needed. Hill descent control will try to keep you from gaining speed downhill with no throttle/brake applied, even without cruise set. Similarly, it will use regen as much as possible.

Hi, I'm currently driving a 2014 C-Max Energi at about 120,000 miles, but have been recently experiencing some issues where a check engine light and the yellow wrench icon turn on. Also, there are some times when I start the car after sitting for a while the battery seems to have drained. Everything else seems to be running fine other than a weird "humming" noise the engine makes.   I ran a scan with an OBD scanner to check for some codes and here are the ones I got: P0DE1: Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit 'N' Stuck On P0DB6: Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit 'C' Stuck Off P0DBA: Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit 'D' Stuck Off U0198: Lost Communication With Telematic Control Module 'A' I tried looking online for any answers, but haven't found any... maybe a battery replacement?  I cleared the codes and the lights disappeared, but they come back occasionally even though the car runs normally in between them. Does anyone have an idea of what's going wrong or what is a solution to fix this?