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(English) Hello forum, I am having a problem regarding the screen of my C-Max 2013 Hybrid, I just bought it and first of all I could not activate the BT sound and then the options provided by the buttons stopped working except for the power button. "menu" with the option to adjust menu and screen. Please, someone who knows how to use it, I ask for your help. Greetings and thanks forum

This is an old thread as I now read thru this litany of C-Max trans issues. But I don't think issue is gone yet, or perhaps started anew? I had a 2013 C-Max Hybrid(91k miles no trans issue)CPO, in 2020, traded it for a 2017 C-Max hybrid(CPO) with 31k miles, since I knew they were going away and love(d) it. Funny sound started at 62k miles summer of 23. Replaced Rt CV ESP $100 deductible, 2 months later same sound required new bearings in trans, NC as part of ESP or Hybrid 100k/8yr warranty, not sure which. Now late Fall 2024, 71k miles, whirring sound again, took it to same dealer, replace rt front CV (again?), before they gave it to me they heard 'the sound' and kept it, bearings in the trans again. Fixed NC but I'm checking with FoMoCo to determine how long the warranty is, seems to only be a year. I'm checking to see if MI lemon law and/or Ford buyback will get me out of this car w/o $4-5k for repair on my dime. Both trans jobs were TSB 22-2396.

Not sure how active this List is.  So the red LED has rarely flashed during charging (when it does, it stays on until unplugged) since late fall cooler weather took hold.   Now, during winter here in Baltimore/DC, the battery only charges to 14-15 miles.  Am looking forward to warmer spells to see if it will go upwards of 18-20 miles.

Hola foro, estoy teniendo un problema con respecto a la pantalla de mi C-Max 2013 Hybrid, acabo de comprar y primero que todo no podía activar el sonido de BT h después dejaron de funcionar las opciones que dan los botones a excepción del botón de "menú" con la opción de ajustar menú y pantalla.  Por favor alguien que sepa como usarla le pido su ayuda.  Saludos y gracias foro

I lost approximately 1/2 of a quart after removing both CV axles.    NOTE: If you are replacing CV Axles, buy Motorcraft (from RA if they have them in-stock).  Whatever you do, don't buy FVP; I went with FVP on the driver's side because R/A only carried Motorcraft for the passenger side.  The FVP got jammed in the differential during [attempted] installation and I had to use a crowbar to pry it out, which trashed the "seal cup" feature.  Still returned it, since the inboard pilot diameter was obviously not machined correctly (oversize).  Motorcraft CV axle slid right in, with just a few taps (by hand). 

If you don't want to tackle replacing the transmission bearings yourself, Hybrid & Electric Car Sales out of Franklin, TN will do all of the work for $~4500.  If you pull the transmission, Chip will repair it for ~$2800. 

I have a 2013 hybrid Cmax that is having problems with the abs module. I'm told that the abs module has to come from Ford and it has to be reprogramed to be compatible with my car's computer.  I'm also told that this part is not available from Ford and they don't know when or if it will be available.  Does anyone have a solution to this problem?

Honestly I'm not terribly surprised. I used to be in the camp of 'Drive it until the plug-in capacity is dead and drive it as a hybrid vehicle' but over time have realized that's not really how it works out in reality. This became especially prevalent when I had a somewhat self-inflicted issue come back up recently with the EV+ mode. But the short version is that with even a somewhat aged battery in my 2013 with a little bit of degradation, it gets cranky when it is deeply discharged. Those with more severe levels of degradation I can certainly see running into issues just driving around once the charge level gets low. In my case I only experience issues after EV+ has done its thing at a destination I won't be charging at. Next few drive cycles the CEL is on and ICE is on full time until the battery is brought back up to a reasonable level after it was deep discharged and sat. But it's all about a few damaged cells that will drop significantly out of the normal voltage range when discharged and pulls the rest of the battery down with them.   Ford just cut too many corners with the overall battery management and EV operation thresholds trying to make it run like a full EV when it really isn't that capable. Add in the lack of owner education on their part and doubling down on not warrantying any degradation just adds salt to the wound. I've said it in a few places but because of this combined with owner ignorance (using the term literally, not in a derogatory manner), I don't have high hopes of these vehicles (the Energi's at least) being good buys on the used market in the coming years. I certainly wouldn't buy one without a super thorough inspection and battery health check.   That all said, I've been super happy with mine. 2013 Energi SEL. Fully loaded. Sitting at 96k miles. All of the major known quirks have been resolved either by the previous owner or myself so she's a 100% reliable vehicle. Did the Sync 3 upgrade which was well worth it and I'm perfectly happy with what I've got now and don't see a need to upgrade anytime soon. Also did the 4G modem upgrade which has been working great despite the neutered functionality for our vehicles. But at least there's no monthly/yearly subscription to worry about.   But I've also educated myself over the now nearly 8 years of ownership on all the quirks and nuances in order to better maintain the overall health of the vehicle but it's really 95% keeping the battery happy.

I don't know how useful this is to others, but thought I'd mention I just swapped out the ACM on my 2014 Ford C-Max for one that I purchased on ebay from a 2013 Ford C-Max (due to the same popping issue).  I'm running into the same volume problem with my new ACM.  The popping has stopped, but I have to crank the volume to max to get a decent level for radio (still a bit low TBH).   A bit of a discussion on reddit is here: https://www.reddit.com/r/cmaxhybrid/comments/1hqpb1g/replacing_acm/  

My 2016 Energi died at 143,000 from this....  The imbalanced battery pack was causing the power train to fail. So the car is totally unreliable on the road. Salvage. There are no battery packs in California, and it would cost $8000 to $9000 to repair it. Good riddance. It ain't a Toyota. A project car for Ford that failed the long haul.