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You may be able to disable the park sensors permanently through Forscan but I'm not sure of where to find that. It wouldn't be an easy menu toggle or button in vehicle. Stock you can disable it temporarily with the button on the dash under the HVAC controls and it'll remain off for the remainder of that drive. But next vehicle start it will re-enable. No way to change this specific operation.   For the Sync issues, always start by checking for any updates and making sure it is fully up to date. The old Sync 2/MyFord Touch systems got pretty much everything sorted by their final EOL update (3.10). And just as a personal anecdote having hitch mounted accessories on a road trip back when I still had Sync 2 installed in my 2013, there were never any issues like this that I experienced.   Here's Ford's site that can help you check for and apply updates: https://www.ford.com/support/sync-maps-updates/ Also if you haven't already done so, a master reset is a good thing to try. If you have updates to apply, it's also recommended to reset after those are applied as well.   Upgrading to Sync 3 will not be possible through a dealer. They will always tell you no because Ford doesn't support or sanction that. It has to be done DIY.

Cant really comment on the remote start topic but I've never seen anyone who was successful adding the factory RS option if it was not equipped across Ford models. Only some Explorer models seem to be the anomaly here. May just be easier adding an aftermarket remote start module.   For the park assist, you'll need more than just the module if the vehicle didn't already have it. You'd need to make sure you have all front and rear parking sensors. You'd also need new ABS sensors. Vehicles without park assist only had unidirectional ABS sensors. Park assist requires bidirectional sensors. There may be other pieces as well. Those are just the ones I'm immediately aware of.

Sounds electrical, maybe motor. lots of repair shops can work on problems like this.  Call and ask them.

What kind of shop? Any repair shop even though they may not know anything about ford? oh. Absolutely nothing happens when pushing buttons. No noise either. Just nothing.  My back hurts so much I can’t drive it anymore unless emergency. Like getting food. 😞. 

Blown fuse. Tried another. Seat has absolutely no power. Checked with volt meter etc. motors are bad techs say at Bowen scarf.  But is the track the only thing I need? So I’m ok to get a track only? I know no one can know without looking. But just curious. 

How's it going everyone?  So here is what I am thinking,,,,, 2013 CMAX Hybrid SEL push button start. Using Forscan I turned on the remote start option. Then I tried to program one of my 2017 Cmax Titanium Fobs(which ahd remote start but was totalled out a year ago) to the 2013 Hybrid but it could'nt see the key fob because its on a different frequency 315mhz and the 2013 as of right now uses a 433mhz. So I looked up some parts and looks like the antenna is the only difference between the 2013 Energi and Hybrid. So I am thinking I should get the 315mhz antenna and try and program the 2017 key fob again.  Any thoughts or flaws??? Oh and one more thing,,,, I was thinking if I add a park pilot module will it park itself? lol   Thanks to everyone btw I think its awesome all the research that has been done and posted!!!

This problem has started occurring on my C-Max: Code: U3000 - Control Module. Additional Fault Symptom: Internal Electronic Failure.   The FORScan Lite code screen says 'POWER_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK' so I don't think it's the first problem.   'SSHIFT_TQ_S2' reports "-0.1Nm - Steering Shaft Torque Sensor #2', maybe I've gotta get my copy of the service manual, so I can see if that could be the problem - maybe it doesn't like seeing a non-zero value when the car is starting up?

Power seat won't recline or move up, other 2 features, lumbar and back and forth work. Husband can troubleshoot but we can't get the panel off to reveal the switch. We realize that we should take the seat off probably and that it's either the switch, motor, or wiring between the switch and motor. I guess we can't get to first base here and I had made an appt with dealer, $186 charge just to diagnose anything electrical they said. I better not bring it, I guess or find my old mechanic who told me that he won't work on my Hybrid anymore. What to do?

What happens when you push the button to move the seat? No noise or movement check fuse.  If fuse is ok check electrical connector under seat for a pin(s) not making good connection. Some noise/movement but not normal movement check for something jammed in the track. If the track is really bad take it to non-dealer repair shop and ask them to use used parts from a salvage yard.  

Anyone please help?