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Brake light bulb type and LED bulb discussion


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113 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 18 May 2015 - 11:04 AM

For Front Amber Park/Turn Bulb

Mentioned above that 3157 is appropriate.

Also that current incandescent 3157 is a screw type bulb, rather than push in.

 

This item on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/...RS:1123&vxp=mtr

or this one which might not be same brightness,notsure

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

described as 3157, but looks like a push in type.

 

 

Will all these push-in 3157 LED bulbs work in 2013 Cmax Energi for Front Turn/Park dual brightness bulb?

 

Secondly - this bulb

http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

describes the need for a 'Standard' socket as opposed to a CK socket.

Picture at bottom of this URL shows Standard as having grounds on opposite sides of wedge, where 'CK' socket has grounds on same side of wedge.

 

How can we tell what the current bulb/ socket type is?  (Voltmeter I presume worst case?)

 

Does Ford Cmax have 'Standard' socket or 'CK'?

 

Thanks









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#22 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 18 May 2015 - 01:16 PM

The C-MAX uses CK sockets, not the standard type.

 

The 3157 bulb is a wedge bulb (push in type), not a screw type bulb.  The ones you listed above will fit.

Here is a picture of the bulb I pulled out of my front park/turn signal.

 

IMG_20150518_121353_zpsjhtyz81s.jpg

 

Edited to correct my incorrect information.


Edited by notquitesane, 11 June 2015 - 11:21 AM.


#23 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 18 May 2015 - 04:48 PM

Ahh, OK, thanks again!



#24 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 19 May 2015 - 10:55 AM

What is maximum length of Amber side mirror turn signal replacement bulb?

Likewise for Amber Side Marker bulb?

 

Looks like might be limited to the 1" length of existing incandescents?

 

 

Also, prying the mirror off to change bulbs is high risk of breaking mirror by bending plastic housing for mirror while prying off.

 

Even these pros are filming on a unit that already has broken mirror, looks like you've got to be very careful not to pry/bend too much.

 

http://www.carcareki...rn_signal_front


Edited by Madmax98, 19 May 2015 - 11:09 AM.


#25 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 19 May 2015 - 01:19 PM

I would go for a 194 LED bulb that is about the same length as the stock bulb.  Anything longer might not fit.  I used Diode Dynamics 194 HP5 bulbs here, and they fit.  Doesn't look like too much room was left over.  In the picture below you can see the little bit of yellow from the base of the LED bulb.  The bulb sits at an angle in the mirror.  I was careful and was able to pop the glass off, and with LEDs in there, I shouldn't have to do it again.  I have read you can try to get the bulb out with long needle nose pliers.  Angle the glass so you can go through the top corner of the mirror that is furthest from the car. 

 

I'm not sure about the maximum length of the sidemarker light, but I used the same LED in there with no problems.

 

 

IMG_20150513_213410_zpsfm713ovw.jpg



#26 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 20 May 2015 - 11:38 PM

Hey Madmax98,

 

I took a quick pic of the amber LEDs (well this one was white, but its the same length as the amber one) I used in the mirrors for the turn signal.  It's not much longer than a regular incandescent, so make sure what ever LEDs you buy are short.

 

IMG_20150520_223147_zps8cwx9epw.jpg



#27 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 09:53 AM

Thanx!  I should have measured first, but I'm pretty sure are 'shorty's'.

 

So did you do the puddle lights also?

With what bulbs - white 194 like what you show above ?

have to take mirror off or can be done from bottom?

 

I just bit the bullet with a little help with 35% off online orders over $75 from pep boys and got

Xtreme Vision 921LED 6000K white for the reverse bulbs.

 

Been dealing with dead battery issue instead, see other threads...;(

Hope it's not from the still ghosting center brake light led's...., haven't put the resistor in line yet, but I'd think that'd just draw more current if anything, wouldn't it?



#28 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 10:37 AM

No, the resistor to prevent ghosting isn't adding any current draw, it's just bleeding off what is already present.  Some LEDs already have resistors built in, so if they do you wouldn't need to add one.  You'll have to install your LEDs and then see if you have any flickering when they are supposed to be off.  Seems all my Diode Dynamics 194s flicker when they are supposed to be off.  I noticed my front sidemarkers were faintly glowing after I locked the car.  They eventually turn off.  Again, it's not a big enough deal for me to pull them out.

 

The puddle lamps are 194 as well, exactly as pictured above.  I've heard you can tilt the mirror up and towards to car and access it in the bottom corner away from your car if you have long needle nose pliers.  If you are careful, taking the mirror off is the easiest.  They don't give you much slack wire when you are pulling the bulb out.

 

I have the Xtreme Vision 921 LED for my reverse light. They are nice and bright.  I don't think it throws any more light behind the car, but they look awesome.

 

I am sorry you are dealing with the dead battery issue.  That would be extremely frustrating to deal with.  I can only hope that Ford comes up with a solution soon.

 

I received my really bright front turn signal LEDs, I will try to install them at noon.  Unfortunately I won't be able to compare to stock bulbs and I left them at home.  But I will be able to compare with what I currently have installed.  They look like they will be pretty bright!



#29 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 10:37 PM

Well I got them installed, but didn't get any good pictures.  Any pictures I took didn't show much of a difference as my car was pointed toward the sun at noon.  The C-MAX sure has a funny shaped reflector, makes for the LEDs lighting it up in funny ways.  You don't get a nice solid fill of light, like all of the lights in the rear of the car.  At any rate, they are brighter than the old LEDs and I'm happy with that.  When I get time I will take decent output pictures.

 

All I have left to do is install a dashcam to a switched power source (got the Mini Add-A-Circuit, just have to find the right fuse to tap off of), install an LED for the glove box (since I'll have to remove it in order to run wires for my dashcam) and maybe figure out how to retrofit the vanity lights in the sun visors.  I can't figure out how to take the lens cover off to get at the bulb.  I tried going in from behind and there is no access to the bulb from there either.  I can't have all the interior bulbs LED except the vanity lights.  It just seems wrong! lol



#30 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 11:08 PM

Hard to believe the Xtreme's don't also throw more light than the stock bulbs... I didn't take the time to test both, but I am concerned that the Phillps 921 didn't really 'pop' or even stick tightly in to the sockets.  I'm a little concerned they might shake loose over time, no?  I didn't want to push them any harder than I tried pushing from the bottom sides.

 

.....I had similar thought on the visor, but I would confer with whoever you know who might be using the vanity mirrors for makeup, lipstick, etc, whether incandescent is in fact preferable to LED just for the visor light....;)

 

what's the dashcam going to shoot, a backup camera? facing forward



#31 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 22 May 2015 - 01:11 AM

Hard to believe the Xtreme's don't also throw more light than the stock bulbs... I didn't take the time to test both, but I am concerned that the Phillps 921 didn't really 'pop' or even stick tightly in to the sockets.  I'm a little concerned they might shake loose over time, no?  I didn't want to push them any harder than I tried pushing from the bottom sides.

 

.....I had similar thought on the visor, but I would confer with whoever you know who might be using the vanity mirrors for makeup, lipstick, etc, whether incandescent is in fact preferable to LED just for the visor light.... ;)

 

what's the dashcam going to shoot, a backup camera? facing forward

My Philips Xtremes didn't click in either but so far they've stayed in place with me opening and closing that hatch at least 6 times a day.  I am hoping they stay put.  My co-worker put a dab of silicone around the bottom just to hold it in a little better.  I lost a 921 in the tail light of my old 2008 Ford Fusion.  I had to get a screw driver with tape stuck to the end to fish out the darn bulb that fell into the housing. 

 

The vanity mirrors never get used... I just want LEDs in there! lol

 

I have a DOD RX7W+ dashcam that shoots forward and attaches over the rear view mirror.  I hate the fact that I lose the auto dimming mirror in the process, but I will be getting the back windows tinted eventually so it won't be so bad.  I got one that attaches to the rear view mirror so it blends in a little bit better.  Doesn't look like anything out of the ordinary unless you look close.  Decided to get one to protect myself in case an accident happens.  Recorded quite a few decent 'bad driver' clips but haven't gotten around to posting any of them.

 

Just to create a new project for myself, I might make it so the side markers flash with the turn signals.  I did this to my old Fusion, used a solid state relay and a small capacitor and etched my own board.  Shouldn't be too hard to do as all the wires I need are right in the headlight.  

 

I can never stop tinkering... lol



#32 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 22 May 2015 - 01:24 PM

could silcone burn / melt that close to LED or does it stay that cool?



#33 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 22 May 2015 - 01:31 PM

Reverse lights don't stay on that long, so it should stay fairly cool.



#34 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 26 May 2015 - 08:36 AM

Reverse lights don't stay on that long, so it should stay fairly cool.

OK good, yesterday i noticed a bulb had slipped out, so I siliconed them in, kinda sticky and tricky to try not to touch any of the silver top end, hope this holds them in....



#35 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 26 May 2015 - 01:15 PM

I have on order Morimoto XB LED t10/194 bulbs from The Retrofit Source.  I'm going to try them in my reverse lights to see if they are any brighter than the Philips.  They are smaller and lighter, so they should stay put, and seem like they will be really bright.  If not, I'll install in the cargo area of the car.  I haven't had one fall out yet but if yours are, I think I should put a dab of silicone on mine too. 



#36 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 02 June 2015 - 05:10 PM

I got LEDs for front turn signal.  Look good, however they are hyperflashing, so I'll need to splice a resistor in.

 

Would you 1)

splice in resistor and keep INSIDE the front bulb housing (risk of heat buildup)

 

2) splice in resistor near the bulb housing but run the wires outside the rubber seal (risking less than air/water tight seal where cables pass under rubber seal)

 

3) splice into the main connector cable ( requires cutting into the nice cable cover, retaping it up, not to mention trying to figure out which cables are which). - Not sure where I can find this, but the cable connector going into the bulb housing does appear to have numbered connections.



#37 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 11:28 AM

I didn't need to put resistors on the front.  I was lucky enough to get away with having just one installed for the rear lights.  The resistors get HOT when you have your blinker on.  I wouldn't recommend leaving them in the light housing as it might melt something.  It's best to mount them on something metal. 

 

Looks like for both connectors on the headlamp, pin 8 is for the turn signal.  Pin 7 looks like ground.  Test it with a meter and let me know if those are correct.



#38 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 10:51 PM

I've seen some youtube videos where the installer just grounds the ground side of resistor to the body of the car rather than a specific ground wire.

Any pros/cons to this?

 

Aren't all the grounds tied to the chassis at some point?

 

And where did you mount the resistor for the rear turns?

 

FYI,  Unfortunately,  I am in process of trying to return the 7443 rear brake/park bulbs I bought since they did not function on the 'low'/park setting. 


Edited by Madmax98, 03 June 2015 - 10:54 PM.


#39 OFFLINE   notquitesane

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Posted 04 June 2015 - 12:51 AM

Madmax,

 

Yeah, I think tying the ground to the body should be fine.  That's what I plan on doing when I install a 12V socket for my dashcam.  

 

When you pop the panel off in the cargo compartment and see the wiring harness go to the rear tail light, I mounted the resistors to the metal surrounding that opening.  I just drilled a hole and used self tapping screws.

 

I hope you can return your current lights and get replacements.  I'm always very impatient when it comes to waiting.  It's unfortunate that I don't have any good stores that carry suitable LED bulbs for the C-MAX.  I have to order everything online.  I actually have an order coming for yet another attempt at brighter reverse lights.  My co-worker gets my hand-me-downs.  He was excited to finally buy my old VLEDS 921 white LED bulbs that I had in my old Fusion for reverse lights.  He wanted to finally say all of his lights (besides the headlights and fog lights) were LED.  He was so excited to get them home, but at some point between work and home one fell out of his pocket and he lost it. :doh:  The other one fell on the floor as he was stepping out of his car in his garage.... *crunch* :doh:  He didn't even get to try them in his car!  If these new reverse lights I ordered work out, I'll get to sell him the Philips Xtreme Vision 921's I currently have in there.

 

Those Morimoto XB LED 194 bulbs were perfect for the cargo lights.  Nice and even lighting.  I don't like how the light doesn't use a reflector.  You basically lose half the light coming from the bulb.  I tried putting metal tape around the light to act as a reflector, but the shape isn't right.  Doesn't do much.  I'll have to work on it some more.  

 


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#40 OFFLINE   Madmax98

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 12:08 PM

Any other advice on side mirror removal to get at bulbs? 

A little anxious not to crack fragile glass.

 

What tools did you use, if any, is it best to try to pull out one tab, then move mirror to try to pop next tab, etc. ?

 

Thanks.








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