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Adding a third Intelligent Access Key = dealer reprogramming


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Bottom line up front:  To add a third Intelligent Access (IA) Key (i.e. the keyless, push button start, key fob) to the CMAX SEL requires the dealer to use their computer, and requires you wallet to lose about $230 total ($140 for the fob with your specific precut emergency key, and about $90 to program).  At least that is what I am figuring out....

 

Long story:  I wanted to get a third key fob (intelligent access key) for the push button start for my CMAX SEL, "just in case".  On previous Fords, if you had two keys, you could program a third one yourself (and avoid the dealer programming cost) by following some procedure that typically consisted of cycling the new and old keys several times.   By doing this, you could save money in case you ever lost one of your keys (as you would still have two and could reprogram another yourself).  Our CMAX owners manual has this procedure for those of you with the keyed start (called an integrated keyhead transmitter), but for the keyless option (intelligent access (IA) key fob), the manual says "see your dealer to have additional keys programmed to your vehicle".  I asked at my local Ford dealer, and they spent about 30 minutes time looking up a "do it yourself" procedure for me, but were unable to find anything in their records.

 

I was still hoping to outsmart the owner's manual, and I found this programming procedure for FORD IA keyfobs (attached) on the web, and hoped it would work for the CMAX IA keys.  So I went back to the local dealership and ordered a new keyfob with my specific precut emergency key.  By the way, the new IA keyfob they ordered for me, after looking it up for me, says 7S7T-15K601EC on the inside of the fob (the ones that came with the car say 7S7T-15K601ED on the inside, and I think 164-8048 is another "crossreference"): I THINK the only difference between ...EC and ...ED is the picture of the hatch on the fob.  You order it with your precut keycode so they can precut the metal emergency key that is inside that matches your vehicle.  Your keycode was on a  small rectangular sticker in your pack of paperwork, that looks like a UPC code with a 5 digit number written on it.  If you don't have that keycode, you have to have the dealer look it up on their system for your VIN and you must provide proof of ownership (ID and registration type thing, so they can make sure you are who you say you are).

 

So, I got my keyfob and precut emergency key today, and tried the attached procedure, except I used the location on the side of the steering column instead of the utility compartment pocket (the pocket applies to other vehicles, our CMAX uses the location on the steering column for a dead transmitter, I think).  I also tried the utility compartment in case I didn't understand something.  I tried other programming methods in our manual where it talks about doors autolocking and unlocking. None of them worked to program my new keyfob.  My precut key works, but of course it only opens the door and sets off the alarm about 12 seconds later!

 

So, unless anyone has any brilliant ideas for me to try, I have an appointment on Monday to get the third IA keyfob programmed to my vehicle by the dealership (actually they delete the two existing keys, and add back the three keys, I'm told, supposedly at another $90 cost.  Assuming my experience described above is "all true", you might as well wait until you lose one of your IA keyfobs and just get a replacement at that time; don't waste your money now, you might not ever need one.

On Board Programming 15.pdf

Edited by JohnTrigger
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Wow - that's exactly what I've been doing most of today.

I had ordered an extra key off eBay, thinking I could program it myself, but none of the procedures work.

I've got a call into the dealership, but they said it's so new, they don't know and will go check and call me back.

 

Yeesh.

 

...Just heard back from the dealer - they said yep, it has to be done there, and would cost $75.

 

The key I bought is the other style - still all one unit but the key sticks out.  It's supposedly compatible with all 2013 Fords.

With my luck, I'll get charged the $75 only to find that the key isn't compatible.  :-(

Edited by PWBarrett
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My local small town dealership didn't know either, but they were very helpful in trying to figure it out for me. I bought the car from a different, larger dealership, but I like the local one for any non-routine maintenance.  The key you got off Ebay won't have the proper cut on your emergency key, but you can probably get a local locksmith to cut it if you have a blank one.  If the blank it is missing, you can try to order a part number 164-R8045 off the internet, I think, but it won't be precut either, just a blank. 

 

It shouldn't be this hard....

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Wow - just spent 3 hours at the dealer to just get a 3rd IA key programmed - and after all that, they gave up.

Yesterday when I dropped in, they tried the in-car procedures, and said it wouldn't go into program mode (could have told them that), so it would have to be hooked up.

Today I brought it in at 8AM.  First they tried with the key I brought in, and after an hour, said that wasn't working, so I said to go ahead and use a new one.

Two hours later, they gave up, telling me they had tried two new fobs, and hadn't gotten anywhere.  They'll have to call Ford about it on a weekday.

They said this was the 1st one of these they've had to do.  I said I figured it was like a Focus, and they said they hadn't had to do one of those yet either.

 

So apparently whatever procedure is in their workshop manual doesn't work, or requires some software update they don't have.

I guess I'll call them after new year's and see if they've found anything out.

At least I didn't get charged for 3 hours bumbling around.  There may even still be a chance that if they can find the right procedure, that my eBay key might work after all.

 

:-(

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PWBarrett,

Thanks for sharing that.  I have an appointment on Monday AM to try to have them program my third key that is supposedly the proper type.  I am not hopeful as they are more confused about it than I am at this point, but I was assuming their computer would have the proper instructions and procedure once they hooked it up--your experience scares me now.  I hope they don't screw it up and leave me with zero keys!  I'll let you know what I learn and if mine is successful. 

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I went in to get the third key programmed at my local small town Ford Dealership this AM, and they used the computer to do so.  About 30 minutes total time from checkin to done.  Now, three keys work (original two and my third one I bought).  I brought all 3 in, and I suspect they deleted two and added three keys back.  Unfortunately, it has cost me about $140 for the keyfob with my specific precut emergency key, and $90 for the programming, as i said in the first post. 

 

So, it is possible to get a third Intelligent Access keyfob for the CMAX SEL, but you can't program it yourself.

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For IA keys, their workshop manual just says to hook it up to the computer and follow its on-screen directions.

I wonder if my dealership doesn't have the latest required software for their computer.

 

I can't imagine why Ford would make it nice and easy to add up to 8 keys yourself for standard ignition, but not have a user procedure at all for Intelligent Access.

 

Was the 3rd key you bought the same fob style as the originals?

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I was still hoping to outsmart the owner's manual, and I found this programming procedure for FORD IA keyfobs (attached) on the web, and hoped it would work for the CMAX IA keys.  So I went back to the local dealership and ordered a new keyfob with my specific precut emergency key.  By the way, the new IA keyfob they ordered for me, after looking it up for me, says 7S7T-15K601EC on the inside of the fob (the ones that came with the car say 7S7T-15K601ED on the inside, and I think 164-8048 is another "crossreference"): I THINK the only difference between ...EC and ...ED is the picture of the hatch on the fob.  You order it with your precut keycode so they can precut the metal emergency key that is inside that matches your vehicle.  Your keycode was on a  small rectangular sticker in your pack of paperwork, that looks like a UPC code with a 5 digit number written on it.  If you don't have that keycode, you have to have the dealer look it up on their system for your VIN and you must provide proof of ownership (ID and registration type thing, so they can make sure you are who you say you are).

 

 

Yes, as described in first post above, my new fob is ALMOST identical to the original two.  The model number differs from EC on the new one, and ED on the orignals as the last two digits, but I had to pop it open and remove the metal key and use a magnifying glass to figure that out.  The picture on the hatchback pushbutton is different on the new one, otherwise it LOOKS identical. 

 

But, it works fine now--I bet they didn't take 15 minutes for them to program it once they had the car in the garage.

 

I suspect your key from EBAY is not compatable. You said they tried two more new ones, were they the same as your orignal CMAX fobs or the same as your EBAY fob?  Either that, or your dealer doesn't know what they are doing.

 

You can only add 4 total IA keys, just FYI.  Model years that use the IA keys prior to 2013 CMAX were able to program yourself assuming two orginals were available, using the procedure I attached in the first quote.  But, not ours for some aggrevating reason...

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