Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/11/2024 in Posts

  1. No truer words were ever spoken. In my case, for example, I found out the hard way that the back-up sensors did not work when the 12V battery was failing.
    1 point
  2. Thanks for your reply. It's about 18 months old. Hopefully not going out again.
    1 point
  3. I know this post is 5 yrs old. Just posting to possibly help someone else in future who might be reading or searching for solution. 2013 CMax SEL Hybrid 114K miles. Rough running, flashing engine MIL light, P codes: 0302 (cyl 2 misfire), 0202 (cyl 2 injector A circuit), 0316 (engine misfire on startup). I had proactively replaced spark plugs about 1000 miles ago (couple months earlier). First time the above malfunction happened a couple weeks ago I got all new coil on plugs, Motorcraft DG-522, and replaced all four, figuring and hoping it was a coil problem since I was pretty sure the spark plugs were fine. Problem went away for about a week. It happened again so I figured it probably wasn’t a spark problem anymore. Tested resistance between the two pins on each of the injectors with the multimeter, which should be between 11 and 18 ohms. I didn’t know that range of values at the time, but the suspected three good ones from cylinders 1, 3, 4 were about 13 ohms and cylinder two was about 29 ohms. Figured cylinder two is probably beyond a limit. Found online mechanics saying the resistance should be between the 11 and 18 ohms. Ordered four Bosch fuel injectors 62383 figuring I would just replace them all at once. Car had sat now for a couple days so wasn’t worried about fuel pressure or fire. Wasn’t very difficult to replace injectors... Obviously you have to remove the air filter box associated air hoses etc to get at the coils/plugs/injectors. Then took picture of all the wires as is, although I don’t think you could physically cross wire anything in truth on reinstallation. Then removed the wires from the coils and from the injectors, and all the wire mounts, to gain some working room below the wire looms. Blew the gunk out of the injector holes with compressed air. Loosened the two bolts holding the fuel rail on. Jiggled and wiggled the fuel rail plus 4 injectors out of the four cylinders. I did not disconnect the fuel line leading in to the fuel rail. A bit of fuel dripped around out of the injectors (a few ounces total), but I had a rag ready to soak it up. I cleaned the injector holes with the gasoline soaked rag and my finger, and some qtips. I sucked the injector holes with a vacuum to remove any residual debris. Removed the old injectors from fuel rail with a small screwdriver to get the metal clip to release then pulled them out (still working below the wire looms with fuel input line still attached, tight but manageable plus a bit more fuel dripped out). Transferred the old metal clips over to the new injectors. Lubed the new injectors o rings with some Vaseline or could’ve used motor oil. Inserted each injector by pushing in to fuel rail making sure the metal clip latched on the fuel rail lip. Pushed the fuel rail with new injectors back into their 4 cylinder holes. Tightened the fuel injector rail bolts to 17 foot pounds. And plugged everything back in. Double checked it looked right. Started car and pressed gas to make ICE run (1-2 seconds of sputtering as fuel pressure built). Checked for leaks and problems seems solved. We’ll see if it stays gone. Hope this helps someone.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...