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TSB 13-4-7 is the result of the root cause analysis Ford did with the C-Max they bought back from me. Its the same firmware update that TSB 12-11-8 calls for. So, its supposed to be the real fix. What Ford told me, and this is talking directly with the engineer who worked on it and issued the TSB, is that the firmware in the FCDIM module, under certain circumstances, caused a loop fault in the network that caused the modules to not go to sleep and thus drain the 12 VDC battery. Another issue... the one TSB 12-11-8 describes was a result of complaints by people that noticed a failure of the radio, and the FCDIM display to turn off after exiting the vehicle. What they didn't know is that the issue also caused the network fault that drained 12 V Batteries. When they found the problem they also discovered that they had actually fixed the drain issue at the same time they fixed the radio / display shutdown. Now, this will only fix issues in the SE-200A and SE-201A C-maxes, and I hope its proven, since Ford ripped apart my old C-Max to get to the root cause. I just had them do TSB 13-4-7 to mine today because any manufactured before (around) Feb 16th has the old firmware and thus could exhibit the issue. Once they realized the criticality of the issue they added the new firmware to builds after Mid Feb. So since you have an SE 200A and its build date is before Feb '13, if they haven't done a firmware update on the FCDIM then you should have it done. it should save you the headache of doing a buy back, as ultimately, with any lemon law, you have to give written notice to the manufacture and allow them one last chance to fix the issue... which, they will probably apply this TSB and claim its fixed. Unless of course, you just done with it, and if so then get your paper work in line, write and let them attempt to fix it, and if the issue comes up again, you can pursue the buy back.

Jonescurt, a few questions, is your C-max a SE-200A or SE-201A model? If so, has Ford installed / upgraded the Front Control/Display Interface Module (FCDIM) firmware? its TSB 12-11-8. If they did this its supposed to fix the problem for SE-200A or 201A's Oh, and any 200A/201A's built before Feb 16th could exhibit the problem, so yours being built Oct '12 would be in the trouble zone.

Best of luck Andrew. Ford did tell me that the cold aggravated the issue as the batteries don't charge as well and they indeed have seen a drop off of complaints in this regards so your right on the mark.

Awesome news folks! Great to hear people are getting traction and getting this problem fixed!

Thanks salman, I did get a call again from Ford today and they gave me the specifics on what they found and what they are going to do, but they also asked that I keep it on the QT until they can get their TSB out. So, suffice it to say, A TSB is coming, and as previously stated (since this isn't anything new) it should be out in the next 1-2 weeks. I will add that the last TSB mentioned (on the previous page I think) is good solid information. So I would suggest if your in a fix, take that info to your dealer. Again, I have to say I really appreciated that Ford followed up and gave me the specifics, I have to say I've been a bit concerned that I would see the problem re-emerge on my new vehicle , and Fords customer service has not only kept me as a customer, but put me at ease that I won't see a occurrence of the problem, which really mitigates any uneasiness I had about the C-Max or Ford.

I asked the the Engineer if they can share more specifics, but I would think that we'll see a TSB in in the next two weeks with the fix for that, so unfortunately I think we have to be a bit more patient. If he calls me back I'll ask him if there is a TSB already and if so I'll certainly post it.

I received an e-mail from the Ford Engineer today saying they found the root cause on the one they bought back, so I'm thinking they are linked. The note from ford said they found It was a module that would go into a loop, and wouldn't down the network. so I'm assuming that whatever they role out in 2 weeks will probably be based on that. I know lots of people have been frustrated at the issue, but I have to give Ford some cudos for staying in touch and follwing up with me. I really appreciate it and I'm hoping they really got it fixed!

The trend of the data in the poll seems to agree with ford that the primary issue is centered around base vehicles without the "Touch" system. though it seems like there is almost at least 1 data point for each model at this point. The idea that the 12 V isn't getting charged properly makes sense, and I think thats what others have been saying also. The question is why do vehicles with (arguably) less complex electronics discharge more often? I hope it does fix your issue Oxnard! But when the other fix comes out, I think it might be prudent for people to get the software update!

Typically, from what I've read, most don't fail the load test... I think one poster mentioned they had the battery replaced and haven't seen the issue resurface. Honestly, when mine did it the first time, that was my default assumption, that Ford had a defective battery, it would be replaced and I;d move on. When they didn't declare it bad and told me not to plug in accessories... I found this site because I didn't believe it!

Just in case people don't know this... but if you press the lock button twice, the C-Max will honk once to let you know everything is good. It will give you two short honks if something isn't closed properly. I did this just this other day, when I was cleaning snow off mine, and was going to go back in side afterwards I pressed the lock twice and it gave me the "Somethings not right" honk, so I checked all the doors and sure enough one was slightly open. 12 V Discharge averted! I always do the double lock to make sure I didn't leave a door ajar.

I bought a duralast 600 from autozone. It has a display on it to tell you how much its chared so I can check it periodically and re-charge it. I haven't had cause to use it yet, but I was gun shy after my initial experience. Andrew, good to hear your buy back is going smoothly, sounds like its going easier than mine did. I just took my C-Max for a bit of a jaunt, about 550 miles up into some snow and back the next day. I saw lots of cars in the ditch due to the bad weather, but the C-Max handled just fine. Still no problems. *knocks on wood*

yeah... I had a 2003 Nissan 350z and it was dead on. Of course the window lift motor failed all the time on that one.

Sad to see new people posting... not because your not welcome of course, but because your having issues! Be sure to add your details to the poll HERE

That's interesting! And I might adds seems to be consistent with comments that Ford Engineering has made to me. It sounds like they are working on another software update though that will actually keep the 12V charged better. It would also explain why the bulk of people experience this issue seems to be a base model as it has that 4.2 FCB my ford display.

;) I haven't been to RD with my new one yet... but may be passing through on Sunday!

Andrew, I would recommend (if you haven't already done so) sending a certified letter to Ford (in writing) that you want a refund. Looking at California law, (section b of the tanner act) it sates: (b) It shall be presumed that a reasonable number of attempts have been made to conform a new motor vehicle to the applicable express warranties if, within 18 months from delivery to the buyer or 18,000 miles on the odometer of the vehicle, whichever occurs first, either 1) the same nonconformity has been subject to repair four or more times by the manufacturer or its agents and the buyer has at least once directly notified the manufacturer of the need for the repair of the nonconformity or (2) the vehicle is out of service by reason of repair of nonconformities by the manufacturer or its agents for a cumulative total of more than 30 calendar days since delivery of the vehicle to the buyer. The 30-day limit shall be extended only if repairs cannot be performed due to conditions beyond the control of the manufacturer or its agents. The buyer shall be required to directly notify the manufacturer pursuant to paragraph (1) only if the manufacturer has clearly and conspicuously disclosed to the buyer, with the warranty or the owner's manual, the provisions of this section and that of subdivision (d) of Section 1793.2, including the requirement that the buyer must notify the manufacturer directly pursuant to paragraph (1). This presumption shall be a reputable presumption affecting the burden of proof, and it may be asserted by the buyer in any civil action, including an action in small claims court, or other formal or informal proceeding. Which is similar to my case. What I found, was that even when Ford agreed to the buy back, they required the procedure to be met to the letter, which delayed the process by several weeks. You need all the documentation of repair attempts and total time in the shop. They want all this, plus any bill of sale, receipts for expenses incurred, etc.... and then have to send it to a processing center. All this takes time, which is frustrating, but they have their procedures and they must be followed. Just going to the dealer won't be enough. The dealer comes into the picture once everything has been authorized by Ford, and then they will have you sign the vehicle back over and handle the final paper work. I was told, that mine took less time because I opted for a trade rather then just cash back. Anyhow, sorry to hear about your frustrations, but make sure your proactive and hopefully you will get through it faster!

lol! it must be a stealth c-max behind me!

So when I fill up, it seems like there is always a 1/2 gallon short. For example I just filled up today, and it was 12 gal I paid for at the pump, however, the trip meter says I only used 11.5 gal of gas. I've been keeping track and this is pretty consistent for every fuel up. Does the tank just not report 1/2 a gal on the top? It does affect the milage... for that 12 gal, the trip status says I went 483 miles and achieved 42 MPG, but really it was only 40 MPG. Has anyone else seen this? Is this something Ford can fix?

Great to hear flatbat! I know how you feel. After I got my replacement, I bought one of those jumper starters. Mines been running great, but it takes a bit to get over it.

I bought mine with (very) early reports stating 37/38 MPG was what people reported. After driving one, I then decided for it at that MPG. My comment to a friedn was this is a great car at 38 MPG, I'll be tickled pink if it gets 42 MPG (which it does!) and absolutely ecstatic if it gets 47MPG, which seems likely. Since my 1st one got bought back, I had every opportunity to get a refund or buy something else, but I liked the C-Max enough to stick with it! The bottom line seems to be that it will perform differently based on your driving, but even if you don't want to coddle it, you'll get good MPG!

The EV+ seems to work for me as well. As my engine is breaking in, or maybe because its getting warmer, I'm seeing an increase in MPG. I want to say the 1st few tanks of gas came in around 38, 39 MPG, and my current one is clocking in at 42 MPG, and on a short 15 mile trip it report 52 MPG today. So my replacement C-Max is def working much better then my 1st.

Def take it to the dealer. My first failure was around 800 miles. :-( I can only add the issues your describing are key questions Ford has asked, that is, any clock issues, Funny biz with the radio, etc. On mine, the radio keeps playing until I open the door... So I can remove the ignition key... which I think is normal. But if it kept playing after you opened the door, then that's wrong.

I would agree.

You must be tired from pushing it??!! ! ;-) Very nice!

I've had the EV+ on since I got mine. If the battery was run low then yes the ICE will start in the morning, however, its always colder right now in the mornings where I live, so if the ac/heat is on it will run the ICE to generate heat. Typically if I leave it off the ICE won't run.