plus 3 golfer

Ford's warranty on unique hybrid components is 8 years / 100 k miles. Have you opened a case with Ford? If not, you can call Ford and do such. But, my guess is the code is from the Transmission Control Module (TMC / SOBDMC) which makes the decisions on how to operate the motor / generator based on torque requirements and EV Now, EV Later, and Auto switch among a host of other inputs. Since the dealer says the issue is a "controller fault" my guess is that there is an internal fault in the module like memory error, processing error, cpu error and the like for which there are DTCs. So, the diagnostic is to run the TCM self test. If the test fails, replace the TCM. But, Ford is generally reluctant to replace a module unless the module fails completely. So, you need to get the code and push Ford since it is a recurring issue. Ford will likely have dealer reinstall software first, if the dealer hasn't already done such - for $300 dealer should have at least done that much. A question / clarification on your statement: "When it acts up I get greatly reduced mileage (over 10 MPG) and as I drive I see mostly engine running and rarely on battery running in EV later mode." EV later should prioritize running ICE over EV to sustain the charge. I don't have an Energi so I don't know what this really means from practicable standpoint. Are you saying that this issue only happens in EV later mode? If you turn off EV mode and go to Auto mode when this happens does the issue continue? or does your FE improve (back to normal) in Auto mode? If there is a system fault when you are in EV later or EV only mode, the system will default to Auto mode operation - does this happen? Also, does this issue continue if you restart car or if you plug-in and charge HVB or does the DTC need cleared? FORScan has reset / self test functions for virtually all main modules (see snip below of the SOBDMC). At least with FORScan you will be able to check for / clear DTCs and also run the reset / test functions of the modules. You also might want to buy a Service Manual on DVD or download it if you are going to try to troubleshoot issue. Below is a link to a SM like I bought several years ago (except mine has all 2013 and 2014 Ford models). The one on Ebay may also include all Ford models. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-C-Max-2013-2014-Factory-Workshop-Service-Repair-Manual/303517970235?hash=item46ab14af3b:g:d50AAOSwdnNdu4HJ

? Grinning Face with Big Eyes A yellow face with smiling eyes and a broad, open smile, showing upper teeth and tongue on some platforms. Often conveys general happiness and good-natured amusement. Do you know the code? control module? Do you get a check engine light? Look on your Service Order of the hybrid shop. If the "expert" hybrid shop can't access the complete Ford code, then run from them as they are likely not experts and do not have a "good" scanner. Ford dealer should have also logged the code on the Service Order. I assume since the issue apparently comes and goes that when you take the car to the dealer / hybrid shop, the issue is not present. Sounds like maybe a control module (controller) finds an anomaly and doesn't know what to do and the algorithm defaults to running ICE. Perhaps a faulty sensor / component triggers a mode to run the internal combustion engine (ICE) over EV or to limit the operation of the EV system. If you are technically inclined, for about $30 you can purchase the FORScan App and an ELM327 OBDii adapter to scan parameters in the car as you are driving, save the data, and analyze the data on a spreadsheet for comparison when the car runs "good" and when the issue surfaces. You can also scan all modules for diagnostic trouble codes. https://forscan.org/home.html

So, the charging problem was with time discrepancy? What other issues are you having every time you drive the car? Are you sure it’s not “operator error.”? What does each SO say every time you took the car to the dealer? In other words, what was the problem and what did the dealer find?

Congrats! and I can't believe how one would buy a Prius after having driven a C-Max especially in the 2013 time frame. I really wanted to buy a Prius but wouldn't because it felt like I was in a "tin box" on wheels and but for FE, had unacceptable performance and ride quality compared to the C-Max. Ford blew it with the early commercials touting the C-Max FE vs the Prius V FE only to have it backfire when Ford readjusted the EPA FE numbers downwards twice. Had Ford touted what it really "beat" the Prius V in, I believe Ford would have captured many of those who bought the Prius V. I've got nearly 125 k miles. Other than a lot of early CSPs and Recalls (aka, unintended trips to the dealer), it hasn't had anything done to it but routine maintenance and two windshield replacements.

That is the correct procedure. 1) You must start the engine (not acc mode) because the engine must run to heat the coolant so that coolant temperature reaches higher than about 182 degrees minimum to start to open so the thermostat. Coolant can then be circulated via the cooling pump through the engine and all parts of the system to remove and air pockets. 2) My guess is that by holding the accelerator down for 10 seconds immediately after brake is released initiates the coolant fill mode where the coolant pump will run at 100% and the car will stay in that fill mode through the entire process. Then you move to step 3 which is to hold accelerator down for one minute. I believe you can either release accelerator after the 10 seconds or likely just continue to hold accelerator down for one minute as the car should be in the fill mode. Have someone listen for the pump running. 4) Good question, I would put the cap back on after each fill of the degas bottle. 10) Disregard the Vacuum Filler as you are not using that tool to check for leaks and fill the system with coolant. There are videos on youtube. Let us know how the procedure goes.

Ford used an RTV sealant. There is no gasket. Removing the engine / transmission is, IIRC, about 10.6 hours of labor. You could likely find a non-Ford shop to do it at less. There is a TSB on this. See TSB 15-0174. Are you sure that your transmission isn't failing? Are there any unusual noises when the transmission is spinning? See TSB 18-2328. The transmission transfer shaft can bore a hole in the engine side damper cover causing transmission fluid to leak into the damper housing and thus leak out. https://ford.oemdtc.com/1036/transmission-fluid-leak-at-the-damper-housing-2013-2014-ford-lincoln https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10148717-9999.pdf

I believe it is as the B coefficient is needed to fit the coast down data to the dynamometer. There are studies / tests on the development / refinement of the methodology used by the EPA for emissions / FE to convert the coast down data for setting the dynamometer coefficients. In fact, for about 10% of the EPA 2013 vehicles tested, the B coefficient is negative implying negative drive train losses. See the bold/underline text below which is an excerpt from a recent study. 1.2 The physical principles of coast down testing The coast-down test is performed to determine the forces needed to propel the vehicle forward at a certain velocity. This information is needed for the chassis dynamometer test of the emissions in the laboratory. The simplest way to determine the resistance forces of the vehicle is to let it roll. Newton already noted that due to its weight the vehicle wants to stay in motion, the resistance slows it down. The balance between its weight, and the rate of slowing down gives the resistance: Fresistance = M v/t Where M is the weight, and v and t are the change in velocity and the time interval. The heavier the vehicle, the longer it takes to slow down. The higher the resistance Fresistance for the faster the vehicle slows down. The are other methods to determine the resistance of the vehicle, however, quite often they are either interfering with the free and independent operation, or they are determined indirectly from separate measurements. The viable alternative mentioned in the WLTP text is the use of a torquemeter, to determine the amount of power exerted by the engine to retain a constant velocity. The sources of vehicle resistance are important to determine the soundness of the coast-down test protocol. The total resistance F can be separated in two major parts: the rolling resistance, dominated by the rolling resistance of the tyres, but with other minor contributions like drive-train losses, and the air drag of the vehicle. The rolling resistance is dominant at low velocities and the air drag is dominant at higher velocities. The rolling resistance is more or less proportional with the weight of the vehicles, while the air drag is globally proportional with the frontal surface area and vehicle speed squared. However, the drag coefficient cD can vary substantially with the actual vehicle shape. The generic form of the resistance is therefore: Fresistance = g * RRC * M + 1⁄2 v2 cD A Where g= 9.81 [m/s2] the gravity, RRC the rolling resistance coefficient, M the vehicle weight [kg], the air density [kg/m3], and A the frontal area [m2]. This generic form of the resistance has no linear dependency to vehicle speed. In practice an extra term linear to speed is needed to explain (fit) the observed coast down results. This extra term can be positive or negative for different vehicles, indicating there’s no clear physical principle linked to. In EPA certification data of 2013 10% of the linear term (F1) in the equation below is negative. Fresistance = F0 + F1 v + F2 v2 where F0, F1, and F2 are determined from testing. The association of F0 and F1 with rolling resistance and F2 with air drag is only generic.

The master reset should transmit / delete the key data which links the VIN to the previous owner’s account. Then, you should be able to add the VIN to your account. If that doesn’t work, call Ford Customer Service as they should be able to manually do it.

Looks good. One has to remember that the coefficients are computed based on curve fitting coast down data to the three loss categories. The speeds used for the EPA coast down tests are from around 71.5 down to 9.3 mph (see link / doc below). So, test will likely require about a one mile outdoor track subject to slightly different conditions when testing to the standard protocol.. So, there will likely be slight anomalies testing the same vehicle in a different configuration like you point out.

Ok, I looked up the generally accepted equation for rolling coefficient of car tires versus tire pressure which is shown below. So, one can estimate the % change in the coefficient for changes in inflation pressure. The 25 % estimate I used in my previous post is too high and should be between about 15% to 20% for speed between about 30 mph to about 70 mph for the increase in pressure from about 36-37 psi to 50 psi. So, at 30 mph, one might see their mpg go up 7.5 % and at say 70mph might see their mpg go up 3.6% by increasing their tire pressure from 36.5 psi to 50 psi. Rolling Coefficients Cars The rolling coefficients for air filled tires on dry roads can be estimated c = 0.005 + (1 / p) (0.01 + 0.0095 (v / 100)2) (3) where c = rolling coefficient p = tire pressure (bar) v = velocity (km/h)

It's virtually impossible for a 37% (50-36.5)/36.5 increase in tire pressure to account for a 29% (45-35)/35 FE increase in fuel economy unless perhaps you were creeping along at less than 10 mph.? But there is no question that increasing the psi from around 36-37 to around 50 psi will improve fuel economy. For example, the change in rolling resistance (RR) due to a tire pressure change would be a small part of the drag of a car at normal driving speeds. Below is a chart of the road load HP of the 2013 C-Max (I don't feel like looking up the 2016 / 2017 data but it will be very similar if it was changed at all) at various speeds based on the data which Ford submitted to the EPA. The decrease in RR by increasing tire pressure is less than the percent change in pressure. Again, I don't feel like looking up the numbers from studies and tests but for the range we are talking about, I would say that a 37% increase in psi might be as high as a 25% decrease in RR. So, applying the 25% reduction in RR to the blue bars the chart below, one can see that if ones speed were 30 mph, one would expect RLHP to decrease by 12.5% (50% * 25%). Assuming this decrease in RLHP results in a 1:1 increase in fuel economy. Once might expect the 35 mpg to go up by 12.5% or up to 39 mpg if driving at 30 mph. Now at 50 mph speed, the 35 mpg would only go up about 7.4 % to 37.6 mpg. (See my post below for lowering the 25% reduction in RR to more appropriate levels). Also, one must note that the RLHP coefficients used by the EPA are based on coast down data and rolling resistance may affect a small portion of the red bars. The green bars represent aerodynamic drag. In addition, if you have mods that decrease aerodynamic drag by say 10%, the green bars would be lower by 10 % and the effect of increasing tire pressure on fuel economy would be greater as the blue bar % would increase.

FORScan with extended license has PATS programming function. I got the 2 month free trial, extended license about a year ago. I’ll see if I can still use it and look at the PATS function. A one year extended license is only $10. https://forscan.org/download.html I was able to download the free trial version with extended license again to our new Surface Pro. In the Body Control Module there is a PATS programming function which will allow one to reset / erase all keys and then reprogram as Admin keys. I, however, did not try the procedure. But, it looks like the same as in the Service Manual.

It is not a recall and unless the car.is under warranty you will have to pay likely around $300+ (2.8 hours labor).

P219A requires that that the following components / sensors shown below pass the monitors checks of those sensors / components. Then, when in closed loop operation if sensors are OK, this monitor runs one time per driving cycle. One thing you can do is switch, cylinder 4 plug and coil to another cylinder and see if P0304 shifts to another cylinder. Sensors OK: ECT, IAT, MAF, VSS, TP, ETC, FRP, DPFE EGR, VCT, VMV/EVMV, CVS, FTP, CKP, CMP, ignition coils, injectors, no misfire DTCs, no system failures affecting fuel, no EVAP gross leak failure, UEGO heaters OK, rear HO2S heaters OK, no "lack of switching" malfunction, no "lack of movement" malfunction, no UEGO circuit malfunction, no rear stream 2 HO2S circuit malfunction, no rear stream 2 HO2S functional DTCs, no rear stream 2 HO2S response rate malfunction.

So, what one does is to select the PIDs that one wants to monitor (can then view by list or gages). The data is recorded , can be saved, and then uploaded to PC for analysis. Here’s an example below.

There have been prior requests for a comprehensive list of PIDs in FORScan. Having found none, I have attached screenshots of the current PIDs of the main modules for my C-Max. These are the modules on the HS Can bus.

The early commercials ran a lot during football games (and other sporting events). Yes, when I tell people I have a C-Max very few have ever heard of it. The C-Max has been around in the EU since the early 2000s. So, it was not really a "new" Ford line - just not sold in NA markets until 2013 MY and then as only a hybrid. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_C-Max

Ford did promote it well (the reason I test drove it) early on - the performance both power (fun to drive) and fuel economy of the C-Max beating the Prius heavily on TV in fall 2012 (see sample video below). Problem was owners and especially reviewers couldn't get 47 mpg. Ford's defense was basically this in Dec. 2012: https://www.mlive.com/auto/2012/12/ford_not_shying_away_from_mpg.html Even knowing I wouldn't get 47 mpg, after my test drive buying the C-Max was an easy decision over the Prius. Sales were still good through summer of 2013 but then Ford revealed that their EPA FE numbers were actually wrong. Then, again in mid 2014 Ford admitted another error in their numbers. It was too late, as sales plummeted after both FE downgrades. The second video was there new promotion in 2014 touting range not FE but the damage was done with the two FE downgrades. Ford promotions of the C-Max was virtually done. Ford was not going to then promote it as a "brand" like a Mustang or Prius. After the blunders it's best to move on.

Living in Michigan does not necessarily get you off the “hook”. The HVB is cooled by cabin air being circulated through the HVB. The HVB can heat up quickly when using EV and especially during regeneration when driving. So, HVB temperature is fairly independent of ambient temp when driving assuming cabin temp in winter and summer are very similar. So, the key is to keep power demand and generation moderate when driving. This is why owners monitor HVB temperature when driving. Also, when the car is being charged at night, some owners wait until their garage cools to charge since during charging, air is drawn through the cabin and HVB by the HVB cooling fan and the hot air is expelled into the garage. Although living in MIchigan and L1 charging will mitigate this with cooler garage, you still need to be vigilant when charging. There is an Energi owner on the C-Max Energi forum named Raja who lives in Massachusetts and has many great posts on how to treat your HVB to mitigate capacity fade. IIRC, when he owned his 2013 Energi (before it was totaled), he was not vigilant and learning and suffered capacity fade (don’t recall the numbers). He replaced it with a 2017, IIRC. And now his capacity fade is minimal compared to his 2013. The number of times one discharges and recharges (cycles) the HVB and the depth of the discharge from 100% also affects capacity fade. So, assume you charge to 100% and your depth of discharge is 60% (down to 40%) and you still have 4 miles of EV only charge left before you recharge to 100%. If you only charge to 90 % and then discharge to 30 %, depth of discharge is still 60%. But charging only to 90% will significantly reduce capacity fade over time and increase the number times you can cycle the HVB before reaching the same capacity fade. There are charts on Battery University about this.

Thanks for the update. So, sure sounds like noise, oil leak have the symptoms of the the transmission bearing issue. Do you know if the leak was the transfer shaft boring a hole through the case? Anyways there goes the theory (really hope) that Ford solved the problem in later MY vehicles as we have a MY 2017 transmission replaced.

So, evidently TF has to be around 32F or lower. What is the "realistic" TFT you get when WT shows 69F. What happens if you don't start car but put in ACC mode? You should still be able to scan PIDs. Does the TFT flop between realistic / bad reading? I can't see how starting ICE would affect the readings flip flopping , unless ICE vibration affects the resistance of the TFT sensor (or path to ground connection). I guess the bottom line is unless you get a CEL or critical display message, I wouldn't worry about it.

The car came with 2 FOBs programmed into the BCM but you only have one of them. Do you know how many FOBs were programmed into car originally (what the car menu said). IMO, the locksmith should have done a reset which would have erased all data in the vehicle. I don't believe you need all FOBs to do a reset. Then the locksmith should have programmed your original FOB and purchased FOB into the car. The two FOBs would then be Admin keys. Since your display says 3 Admin / O mykeys, sounds like locksmith did something incorrectly. I don't see why the locksmith can't repeat the procedure with the two FOBs you now have programmed - run the reset and erase program and then follow the instructions to reprogram. Maybe a locksmith does not have full online access to the Ford software that a dealer has and can only add a key, not reset and erase keys. I'd make a trip to the dealer and ask a SA about your situation. You can call but I've always had better results by going there as over the phone they usually say let's schedule an appointment and we'll look at it.

It's too bad the administrators of this forum and the equivalent (currently shutdown) C-Max Energi forum haven't merged the Energi forum as was supposedly planned into this forum yet so Energi owners can comment. You can also post your questions about how to best operate your Energi on the fordfusionenergi.com forum. IMO, first you should assess how much usable energy (kWh not miles) is currently available for EV only operation on a full charge. This will give you a base reference as to how much capacity the HVB has lost and a reference to measure how much capacity fade (HVB degradation) you will experience over time. When new the HVB has a capacity of around 7.6 kWh with about 5.6 kWh available for EV only operation which would include use of the HVB for all electric power used in the car. For example, in the winter many Energi owners will not use the heater as it's electric until the gas engine (ICE) has been run so that the engine cooling system can supply heat to the cabin. Some simply never turn the heat on and just use the driver seat heater. Thus, in the first mile or two one might want to run ICE before switching to EV. In addition, every time you discharge / charge the HVB, the HVB looses a little bit of capacity. So, you might want to use ICE more than you are currently doing or you might want to not charge the HVB to full capacity but only to the amount normally used every day. In your example, your wife arrives home with 4 miles of EV capacity left. Thus, rather than charge to full everyday, you might consider charging only to XX% everyday not 100%. Problem though, as I understand, there no way to automatically set an XX% charge level. SOC = state of charge expressed as a %. So, when new and fully charged, the SOC = 100% or the HVB capacity is charged to 7.6 kWh. Over time, the HVB loses capacity. If after several years, the HVB has lost 1.9 kWh, the maximum SOC of the degraded battery would be 75%. You cannot directly read SOC of the HVB unless one has a scanner to connect to the OBDII diagnostic port. So, one can monitor SOC, HVB temperature, and other variables while driving so that one can operate the car to mitigate battery degradation. Most owners don’t do this but those that do have minimized battery degradation.

So, if ambient is 32 F but transmission is warmed up and you restart the car, does it happen? A failing thermistor (TFT sensor) usually fails open which would result in a low voltage (no voltage) from the sensor. So, if the TF is cold and the thermistor is beginning to fail, it is more likely that the internal connection between the thermistor material and metal lead will begin to separate. Once the TF warms up, the thermistor may seem to work fine but it's reading could be off. The SM gives the thermistor resistance vs temperature values that one should see if one pulled the connector and measured resistance of the thermistor.

I don't monitor TFT a lot but have never seen this. Does the Scan Gauge read both the PCM and SOBDMC for trouble codes as the transmission TFT codes are in the SOBDMC? If TFT is above 643.5 * F for more than 2.5 seconds, there should be a DTC (likely P0710:11, P0711, P0712) that the sensor voltage failed low - generally a short to ground. This monitor runs continuously. Since the TFT apparently cycles between bad / good, the DTC may be a pending DTC and then cleared when the reading is good for so many monitoring cycles. Possible Sources Connectors damaged or pushed-out terminals, corrosion, loose wires and missing or damaged seals TFT sensor SOBDMC / TCM Also, the above may not be emissions related and may not trigger a CEL unless the following range threshold shown below fails as this DTC is stored in both the PCM and SOBDMC. This check is only performed when the Motor, Generator, and TFT sensors check OK. In essence, the absolute value of the difference in temperatures between TFT for both the Generator Coil AND also the Motor coil exceeds 30 C while at the same time the absolute value of the difference between motor and generator coil temps is less than 10 C. So, although the first two checks may fail when TFT shows as 850 F, the third check does not fail the test and hence no range fail DTC. This is where FORScan could be used to record appropriate data while this issue is happening. Also, if the TFT sensor needs replaced or the internal transmission wiring harness is at fault for the DTC, the transmission must be removed and opened up as the sensor is internal to the transmission.