plus 3 golfer

Frank, any update on the CrossClimate+? I really like the reviews but am somewhat concerned about the siping feathering and creating noise. Any abnormal wear? especially since they are directional tires. Thanks Discount tires has them for $144 + fees, installation and tax. In addition, Ford Quick Lane should match price and they have a special Memorial Day Saving of $30, Michelin rebate of $70, and $80 Ford credit card rebate = $180. This savings and price may be to good to pass up given the following paragraph. Although I don’t need tires immediately due to tread wear (good for at least 5 k), one tire has leaked twice at a patch repair. Last summer as a result of 15 new home constructions, we got 3 screws in 2 tire too near sidewall to be repaired with inside patch. I patched with the string kits and have driven about 12 k miles including cross county since. However, last Dec. one of the plugs began to leak and I repluged. Then about a month ago it began leaking again, so I double plugged. So, given the prices above and potential leaking, I believe it’s time to replace all four.

C-Max doesn't break down! ? I have no idea what you would need sockets for that can't wait until one gets home. I carry jumper cables (some carry a jump start), flashlight, needle nose pliers (to pull fuse 79 / put back in for Sync2 lockup and to remove screws / nails in tire), and a quality string tire puncture repair kit (some carry a spare tire, jack and lug nut wrench). IMO, one should buy the FORScan App for a smartphone and an ELM327 OBDII adapter to monitor vehicle data while driving, for example tire pressure, state of charge of the 12 V battery. Search FORScan under my name for pics of all the data available to monitor and self tests of control modules that can be done. https://forscan.org/ Since you do work on your car, go to ebay, buy a downloadable (or DVD) workshop manual for the C-Max. Look in the service manual (download online) for how to reset tire system kit that should be under a cover on the passenger seat rear floor.

The problem with going through the “elaborate set of maneuvers to reset it” is that there is no apparent feedback (that I saw) indicating that the battery age was reset after completing the procedure. One inadvertent “slip up” in the reset procedure and the age will not be reset. So, as takingittothemax indicates you would want FORScan to reset it and to verify the age was reset. I believe that battery age like, for example, the odometer reading would be saved in permanent memory and thus not lost if the battery was disconnected for a long period of time.

But if you are not part of the class action suit (got a letter from Ford), you do not qualify for the 3.10 update free of charge. Below is the link to see if one qualifies. I believe I have 3.10 somewhere on a memory stick but see no benefit in "attempting" an update from 3.8 (which I did successfully from a Ford download) given issues people have experienced. IIRC, when 3.10 first was released in Nov 2016, everyone was suppose to be able to go to a Ford dealer and get it for free. But to keep the dealers from being overwhelmed, Ford phased in the update by "selectively" changing the status of owners' sync system from up to date to 3.10 update available. The Ford rep on this site at that time assured us that everyone would eventually be able to get the update and the status would change to update available, being free of charge (but the 12M02 APIM warranty extension of 5 years was from date of in-service). I'm convinced that Ford chose to allow 12MO2 to expire for a lot of vehicles including mine by keeping my sync status as "up to date" for over one year until 12M02 expired on 12/29/2017. It was in this time period that Ford reps no longer were on this site. Coincidence? ? It took a class action suit to get it done but unfortunately most owner states were not a party to the suit. https://secure.myfordtouchclassaction.com/SoftwareUpdateLandingPage

My thoughts on resetting battery age: 1) The BMS estimates the Ah losses by integrating the current flowing through the negative cable of the battery. Thus, as the battery ages, the Ah capacity of the battery declines. 2) The goal the charging algorithm is to maximize the life of the battery by regulating the charging current flow into the battery by adjusting charging voltage as the battery is being charged. The issue are that as the battery ages, each of the 6 cells likely age differently (develop different resistance) and that the estimated battery capacity is accurate based on the battery age parameter and the new battery capacity is around 43 Ah. 3) Because the cells will have different resistance, the voltage across each cell will be different for the same current flowing through the battery. Thus, some cells given a standard charging algorithm (not BMS) may be overcharged (too high a voltage) and some cells undercharged (too low a voltage). Undercharging reduces overall Ah capacity for each charging time period and continual undercharge causes sulfation. 4) The BMS based on the estimated Ah capacity will set the charging voltage to a charging rate based on the current Ah capacity of the battery. It appears from my observations that the BMS does not have a constant current, bulk charge phase but goes immediately to the constant voltage, topping charge state which generally would begin once the battery capacity is around 80%. 5) So, if battery age was not reset when a new battery was installed, it appears that the BMS will use a constant charging voltage that is too low and the battery will likely never be charged to its capacity because the car is generally not run long enough (driving time and frequency of driving). By resetting battery age (even for an aged battery), charging voltage increases slightly (0.1 - 0.2 Volts) based on my observations and thus adds more charge to the battery than absent the battery age reset. 6) The only downside, IMO, to resetting battery age to zero could be overcharging of weaker cells (shoving high current through those cells with higher resistance). If the weaker cell reaches 100% of its lowered capacity when the stronger cell is significantly less than 100 % charged, it may cause excess gassing. This is unlikely given the small increase in charging voltage and that the BMS is not a fast charger (takes many hours of driving time to fully charge). Again, from my observations based on fully charging with a battery charger and actual driving three times for 28-30 hours in 2+ days, the BMS will not fully charge the battery unless one drives many hours over a several day period. 7) In summary, there needs to be a balance between preventing sulfation due to continually undercharging stronger cells and gassing due to overcharging weaker cells. I believe that by continually monitoring SOC and occasionally charging to full every so often with an external battery charger, one can determine whether the battery is being undercharged. My guess would be that if normal SOC from driving is less than around 80% of the maximum SOC after charging on an external charger, the battery is being undercharged. If it is being undercharged, resetting battery age should likely help to maintain a better charging regime and should extend battery life. From my recent observations, I recently reset my battery age (April 5th 2020) and also put my 5 year old battery on a charger until the charger indicates the battery is fully charged. My SOC maxed out in the lower 60% (IIRC 63%). After about 7 weeks of normal driving since April 5th, my SOC today is 54%.

I would assume that bolts 2 and 3 are stretch bolts (given the 2 stages in tightening). VW seemed to use them everywhere and I know they used them on engine mounts. Some say you can reuse stretch bolts a couple of times but VW always recommended replacing them. You probably should have loosed bolts 2 and 3 first. Then, tighten the bolt to the specified torque in step 1) and then rotate the bolt the approximate number of degrees in step 2). So, bolt 2 should be rotated 60 degrees after 35 lb-ft is reached and bolt 3 - 120 degrees after 59 lb-ft is reached. I wouldn't do anything more unless you buy replacements bolts and remove the old one as I wouldn't want to snap the old bolts. Here's a couple links to threads when I owned VWs. https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=424644 http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/305

Yes and yes. First, Ford must maintain parts for at least 10 years. Second, many parts are also used on the Fusion Hybrid and other Ford vehicles and thus will be available past 10 years. Lastly, hard to get parts in the future can be pulled from salvage yards and aftermarket suppliers might supply them.

So, what you are saying is that the mechanic needs to know what the connector wires to the front end are used for so that the mechanic can adapt the USA connector from the BCM to the European front end connectors for the headlamp assembly, fogs and so forth? For $25 you can download the 2017 / 2018 Service manual (see link below) with wiring diagram. Several years ago I downloaded the 2013/14 C-Max manual (and includes all Ford products made in USA) from an Ebay seller. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-C-Max-2017-2018-Factory-Workshop-Service-Repair-Manual/303483126658?hash=item46a9010382:g:ST4AAOSw2k5dw5WN

DRLs are controlled by the BCM. So, there should not be any wiring changes due to DRLs. IIRC, US fleet and Canadian C-Maxes had DRLs implemented when sold. In a early MYs dealer or by using FORScan, DRLs could be turned on / off by changing a data file in BCM. IIRC, in later MYs, DRLs were hard coded in the BCM and could not be turned on / off.

Here's 2014 diagrams but may not be same as 2017. Use Libreoffice Draw or an svg viewer to open file. EEG~us~en~file=eeg085001.svg~gen~ref.svg EEG~us~en~file=eeg085002.svg~gen~ref.svg EEG~us~en~file=eeg086001.svg~gen~ref.svg

Oops that’s Ford Quick Lane. Yes, you need to try charging overnight to see if it will hold charge and then you can monitor SOC with FORScan. If it holds charge, I’d reset battery age which might get the SOC up. With only 4% SOC, the normal battery drain (up to 50 mA or 0.05 Amps but should be less) when car is off could result in a no start if the car has not been run for several days. The Ford battery is rated 43 Ah when new. So, 4% SOC means the battery capacity is around 1.7 Ah before voltage drops to IIRC 10.5 V which is defined as zero SOC. 1.7 Ah / 0.05 A = 34 hours. The car will likely still start at 10.5 V as modules can still operate at 10.5 V. So, as long as the there’s still enough power in the battery to close the HVB contacts, the car will then start.

Ford Quick Lane runs specials on the battery all the time. Currently, they have the MOTORCRAFT® TESTED TOUGH® MAX BATTERIES STARTING AT $129.95 MSRP.* plus tax and installation with a 3 year replacement and 100 month prorated warranty. For about $20 installation (2015 price) or so, IMO, it's not worth DIY. They will also test your battery for free. Tire rotation is $10 total. So, I go about 15 minutes before they open, get tires rotated, battery checked, drink a couple cups of coffee and eat two doughnuts all in a little over an hour. Best $10 you can spend (Nov. 2019 pricing). ?

There will be a date code on the battery. You can search internet for how to read code for Motorcraft battery but it appears you may have to remove battery to find the code. Your SOC is showing 4%. I would put the battery on a charger overnight (or until charger indicates battery is fully charged) and then see what the SOC is after charging. Alternatively, you can leave the car in ready to drive mode (turn off all accessories) in an unclosed area for several hours as the 12 V battery will continue to be charged by the DCDC converter. When the HVB charge reaches a low set point level, ICE will start to charge the HVB. The point being that the higher the SOC reaches in charging overnight, the newer the battery. For example, when my 2nd battery was about 700 days old but the battery age in FORScan was about 1500 days old (battery age was not reset by dealer when new battery put in), my SOC was generally showing in the high single digits, low teens but after full charge would be around 90%. But, the SOC would after a few weeks would fall back to around the single digits. About 20 months ago, I reset battery age with FORScan and SOC would then be around 60%. Currently, when I fully charge my battery, SOC will be about 60+% and actual battery will be 5 years old next month. My SOC generally shows in the 40-55% range. I recently reset my battery age to zero with a manual procedure (to see if the procedure worked without FORScan).

Yes, except 2013 MYs also had a transmission gasket issue (bad RTV and leaking fluid) which required removing power train and transmission from engine.

If you are not the owner (able to provide proof of ownership to Ford / dealer), Ford / Dealer will (should) not give you information on a car you don't own. I don't believe FORScan lite versions will be of any help. It's likely that with the FORScan full version (which allows looking at / editing of vehicle data) can access data like serial / model number and so forth of transmission which may yield data to approximate build date. Go to the FORScan forum and ask the question. Find posts by Snowstorm and others that describe a whining noise which apparently develops from the "bearing" issue and is an indicator of pending failure.

In the INL testing, 4 2013 Fusion Energis were also tested along with the 4 C-Max Energis to about 160k miles. 0 of the 8 Energi transmissions failed. Also, Ford sent customers a note dated November 9, 2015 about CSP 14b07 clearly stating “under certain driving conditions, the transfer gear assembly bearing may fail prematurely” (see below). IMO, it is clear that the likelihood of failure is greater if the car is operated under certain driving conditions as opposed to other driving conditions. Thus, the mileage at failure likely could vary widely among vehicles. So, even though a transmission has 165k miles on it, I wouldn’t bet the home it will make 200k miles. I might bet $3k though. Do you know if transmission has been replaced (do you have service records)? "REASON FOR THIS PROGRAM Under certain driving conditions, the transfer shaft gear assembly bearing may fail prematurely. This can result in thumping, rubbing, or grinding noises from the transmission, and may be accompanied by the illumination of the powertrain fault indicator (wrench light) in the instrument cluster."

And since the warranty is 8 yrs / 100k miles, my guess is most owners who had their transmissions replaced under warranty aren't on forums. Only Ford knows the answer to the failure rate. ConsumerReports reports reliability data which is gathered from owners via surveys and maybe helpful. It shows 2013 "transmission major" reliability (transmission rebuild or replacement, torque converter, clutch replacement). as Average, 2014 and 2015 as above average, and 2016 and beyond as excellent. You can draw your own conclusions. CR's ratings are relative to all transmissions whether covered under warranty or not.

Ford uses what they call a transmission support insulator (transmission mount), an engine mount, and a roll restrictor (not really a mount per say) to isolate powertrain from chassis. On the Focus, techs claim debris in the roll restrictor can cause excess engine vibration at idle. So, perhaps start ICE and see if engine seems to be vibrating. Also, I would assume a damaged roll restrictor or perhaps loose bolts (note how the bolts are to be torqued) could cause metal to metal contact on initial acceleration. I've attacked a snip from service manual of it. Take belly pan off and it's the blue part.

Exactly, you would want to use charge between wall charging. But, if you don’t mind the heat inside the cabin from using the heater core to reduce WT going uphill, you will likely get better overall efficiency by fully using EV when cruising under flat / downhill conditions where torque is lower rather than using EV Now on steeper hills where torque demand is higher. It would be interesting to record data on the same highway trip with hills several times, experiment with different strategies for using EV now, and then analyze the data. I believe with enough data one could develop “efficiency curves” for ICE and EV and then when driving by monitoring real time data and current road conditions adjust use of EV. But I likely won’t buy a PHEV to try / do such. I think we talked about this prior (years ago) as to look ahead algorithms for FEVs and PHEVs to anticipate route conditions to optimize real time use of HVB.capacity, ICE and EV over the trip.

OK, but I'm not sure one wants to use a "cannon" (the Escape PHEV powertrain and HVB) to remove a little bit of heat when a "pea shooter" (a blower motor and maybe an auxiliary electric pump) does the job as my guess is that the cannon is far less efficient than the pea shooter. Look at it this way. At a constant speed going uphill or on level ground with ICE (no charging), ICE runs at the same rpm. But the torque requirements are higher going uphill than on level ground. Thus, when going uphill more fuel is burned but the efficiency of ICE is likely better because ICE will be operating at a higher point on the BSFC curve than on level ground for the same rpm. Now an electric motor also has torque vs speed efficiency maps. Below is an efficiency map of an electric motor (don't know what car) but it is a larger motor than in the Escape (C-Max 88 kW motor is rated at 240 Nm at low rpm) . Note how the motor can supply constant high torque at range of low rpm and then the torque curve drops as rpm goes by the end of the constant torque portion. So, one can see that at high torque and high rpm (like going uphill at interstate speeds), the efficiency of the electric motor will likely drop out of the optimal efficiency range. For example, let's say that the torque requirement going up hill is 235 nm and the rpm is at 6500 rpm which might be a speed of around 60 mph depending on gearing. The motor is operating at about an efficiency of 93% or 2% below it's best efficiency at 95%. So, if one would switch to EV now mode going up a hill, there is a good chance that one has lost 2 % in efficiency or more depending on the hill from using EV on level and especially on slight downgrade highways where the torque requirements would likely fall in the dark red 95% range.

Point3 - EV energy is not free and more expensive when charging HVB while driving than from wall (maybe not at $1.50 per gallon and no cheap EV / off peak electric rates). If you can stand the additional cabin heat, that’s likely the best way (other than slowing down going up the hills). It seems intuitive that EV is best used anytime ICE would be operated at low torque demand which generally is when cruising at lower speeds, at moderate speeds on level and slight downgrades, and at higher speeds on steeper downgrades. This is basically like a hybrid operates until charge depletion requires ICE to come on at higher torque to charge HVB and to propel the car. So, between plug ins, one would want to use EV wall charge on stretches of the road best suited for its efficient use which I doubt is going uphills.

13171 is version 3.6.2 You can likely find 3.08 or 3.10 on line, download, and install yourself. Read the thread attached. https://www.forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8368

Congrats! Check the version of Sync 2 that you have. Version 3.10 is the last version we will see. Both 3.08 and 3.10 are virtually trouble free. If you don’t see 3.08 or 3.10 listed on the screen as shown in the thread attached, you should update software.

What SS said. I’d try to get $1k off as with lease return, auction values declining 16% (JDPowers mid April), and used car sales way down, used inventory is up. I doubt we’ve seen the bottom in used car values. IIRC, in the 2008/09 recession, used car values dropped around 15%. The unique hybrid components (including High Voltage battery, the transmission, and certain control modules) are warranted by Ford for 100k miles / 8 years. So, find out the date when the vehicle was first sold (or at least build date), to see how much warranty is remaining. I’ve got 125k miles on my 2013 SEL. It still drives like new. Nothing done to the car other than recalls and routine oil, filter, tire rotation, and alignment maintenance. Look at the rotors for pitting / rust as some have found they had to replace to pass inspection. Since friction brakes are used very little and I live in AZ, my rotors / pads show virtually no wear and no pitting.

Ford Specs 2018 C-Max --- Engine torque =129 ft-lbs @ 4000 rpm; Total HP = 188 HP @6000 rpm HVB - Charge Limit = 35 kW, 1.4 kWh; Motor - 88 kW, 177 ft-lbs @ 6000 rpm; Generator 64 kW 2020 Escape - Engine Torque = 155 ft-lbs @ 4500 rpm; Total HP = 200 HP @ 6250 HVB - 1.1 kWh; Motor - 88 kW (Autoblog); Generator ??? So, it looks like the 2.5L Escape ICE has 26 ft-lbs more peak torque at 500 more rpm than the 2.0L C-Max. So, the HVB charge limit of the Escape is 35 kW - the same as the C-Max.