zhackwyatt

FWIW dealer charged me $45 labor and $25 parts to replace it.
 
Part #: CV6Z-19N619-A

It happened to me quite regularly.  My dealer got on the phone with Ford and they decided to replace the SD Card that has the Maps on it.  Hasn't happened since.

More extensive thread on the subject.

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/4057-tinting-windows/?p=45908

I just got my car windows tinted all around in 3M Crystalline 60 with exception of the windshield. The heat rejection is fantastic and hopefully in the future my left arm won't be darker than my right one. The only issue I have is not with the tint but how it was installed, the tinter seems to have botched the rear window as it has a bunch of smudge and tool markings in it. Will probably get it redone.

 

I would be careful about tinting the windshield as its a very hard windshield to tint. The tint shop I went to suggested Suntek CXP 80 on the windshield as its the most optically transparent in the 80+ catagory but the tinter couldn't get it to apply without wrinkling. From my research here's a brief breakdown of what I found on most windshield tints.

- 3M Cystalline: causes a wavyness or distortion on steep angled windows like the c-max since its so thick

- Llumar Air Blue: has a fine graininess to it which causes a speckle pattern and halos on bright lights at night

- Suntek CXP 80: has had a bad reputation for being hazy and not very clear but apparently Suntek has addressed this problem. Didn't get it so I don't know.

- Pinnacle Forumla 1: Same film as Llumar Air Blue

- Huber Optek: too thick to apply on windshields

- Photosync: very expensive and hard to find

I have Crystalline 70 on the front Windshield. Everyone I know says they didn't notice it until I pointed it out to them.  I'm happy with it.

I live in Phoenix too and have been using the cheap Walmart shade.  It's super convenient as I can tuck it between the seat and the center console. I'm hesitant to get one of these more expensive ones because I expect it to end up in the backseat when folded and then inevitably in the very back when I haul 3 other people around.  Have you noticed a significant different in temperature between a cheap one and the more expensive ones?

Thanks for the info.

Regular application of ArmorAll (or equivalent, I guess) (is there an equivalent, come to think of it?) (well, whatever) should also prevent the dash from cracking. I'm pretty sure you're right that it's UV damage which causes that, but strictly speaking, a sunshade isn't the only way to prevent UV damage. I mean, it's an added benefit, I suppose, but I think the main reason for a sunshade is to block heat.

I prefer Meguiar's Quick Detailer.  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AMLWH8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000AMLWH8&linkCode=as2&tag=calipso-20&linkId=IGK4KALXLQJQ4JTD

Another option is to also put window film on all the windows, including the windshield (clear on the front of course).  I have 3M Crystalline which blocks 99.9% of UV.

I can't believe it - just today I was trying to get SYNC to recognize mp3 files inside folders and couldn't.  All files had to be in root position.  Is there any way to navigate into the folders?  I have an SE without MFT.

All my files are inside folders.  I use Windows Media Player to sync to the drive and it worked just fine.  It puts the music in Artist and the Album folders.

In the past I've heard about strange characters in file/folder names and in the file meta data that can cause problems with SYNC.

I got 3M Crystalline 40 on the sides and back, and 70 on the front windshield.  I live in Phoenix, so its important out here as well.

Here are a couple topics on the subject.

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3262-window-tinting/

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/291-tinted-windows/

So today, I finally got my MFT to screw up by itself - it decided to turn the "Audio Off" by itself. As well, no SYNC through the paddle either and I was so enjoying my techno audio at the time. Even multiple cold restarts did NOTHING. It took a Master Reset and an extended cold start to "reboot" the MFT.

 

TO be fair, MFT has been pretty stable since mid 2013. Seriously, no issue whatsoever until it puked today.

 

*sigh* I really hated Microsoft at that moment.

I haven't had any problems since the last update.

I thought I read that Ford claimed responsiblity for MFT and Microsoft wasn't really at fault?

I live on a VERY rural military base in California with a huge population of dear and coyotes. I want the fog lamps to save myself the heart ache of the collision with a furry animal...lol

China Lake?

 

Just had car at dealer for the intelligent access key feature not working with gloves on. Was told it's a safety issue not to have doors lock or unlock by accidentally having a coat swipe the handle. Dealer stated the locks will not work with gloves on with any Ford model having the intelligent access key feature. Thanks to Ashley and Linda at Ford for trying to help. Guess we'll have to have the fob handy in the cold weather while wearing gloves.

 

I bet it's just the technology they use is capacitive.  Same reason you can't use an iPhone with gloves on.

In case anyone else has this issue, please check your remote-start owners manual. How-to videos and the dealer state to press the remote button twice within 3 seconds of each other (doors must be locked). That is incorrect, at least for the remote I have. You have to press once but hold it for 5-6 seconds. It then starts as all other documentation references. It works perfectly now even from my 3rd floor window at work. Perfect timing for this years extra cold temperatures in Ohio. :thumbsup:

Do you know what system you had installed?

Actually, the article said something about them not being able to make it work with the upgrades system.  So, either that is a Ford issue or a Microsoft one.  I am betting on it being a Microsoft issue.

My point is it's just conjecture.  We don't really know.

Yes, I thought that since I paid mo money for MFT with nav that I would get AppLink capabilities.  I a couple of hours trying to figure out how to get it to work.

 

I blame Microsoft for a bad OS.  I blame Ford for choosing Microsoft.  

 

What other production ready alternatives do they have?  I wish Google would just make an Automotive version of Android.  Why do I need AppLink if I can just install NORMAL apps on it and tether it to my phone WIFI for data?  So far only BAD Chinese HUs offer Android versions that probably don't work well.

 

BLAH.  This subject gets on my nerve!

Sync has always used Microsoft with or without MFT.  I'm not sure it's fair to put the blame on Microsoft because we don't know the specifics of why AppLink is not in the MFT system.

We just got our C-Max, so we've only had a chance to see what the fuel economy would be any time except when it's extremely cold. I got like 26 mpg last night, but that was driving around in the parking lot with my daughter while my wife shopped. I didn't expect much. 

 

Is it normal that you can hardly seem to keep the car in EV mode when it's cold? Aside of the engine running to warm the car, that is. 

 

I'm going to tell the wifey that she's going to have to button up if she wants to get good fuel economy! LOL

Do you have MFT?  If you do, you can use the Hybrid display on the main screen and it will give you an indication of why the engine is on.

Is this smoothness thing a recall or a TSB?   If it's a TSB then the fix will only be applied if the owner reports the car is having that problem and so won't show up on etis.

Fuelly is still biased towards the pre FE update numbers.

I have 10 months of pre FE Update numbers, and only about 3 and half of post-update numbers.

I'm thinking I have 6.5 months before my pre FE update and post FE update cancel each other out. Then after that the real numbers show.

I'm sorry to the Mathematicians out there, at least it all makes sense in my head :confused:

I'll be honest, I'll sell the C-Max in a heartbeat if I can get a self-driving car, just jump in and go along for the ride :shoppingcart_:

http://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/news/2013/12/12/ford-reveals-automated-fusion-hybrid-research-vehicle--teams-up-.html

Everybody always forgets about Sync Services to that you can call and get destinations downloaded to the car.

I find when I have problems with POI, it's because the place isn't in the car's database (only so much can fit on that SD card) in the first place.

Is it possible to just open the vent and let in fresh air without have the climate control on?  

 

I have not been able to do this.  I just want fresh cold air from outside.  Instead, I get warm air coming at 60 degree (outside 45 degree).  And I noticed that climate control was sucking up 10% of my EV range.  So now I drive with climate control off and it gets too warm and need fresh air.

 

I never knew something that used to be so basic on all cars is not a likely feature.  What's so hard about just opening up that vent?

I haven't tested this but what happens if you turn the temp dial to Lo and then turn off a/c and slow down the fan. Does it put it back to 60 or do what you want?

it happened on Hamilton Pkwy in Brooklyn. It was a sunny day. It began on Goethals Bridge with a system crash. Then two failed calculations. Then off-route location indication mentioned earlier.

 

The sequence was like this:

 

1. Driving on Goethals Bridge. Voice button and Navigation Voice command

2. crash

3. quick recovery - then voice command again

4. voice - find a street address

5. ok

6. on i278 it showed a turn that made no sense

7. i did continue on I287

8. instead of calculating new route it displayed Route Calculation Failed

9. I clicked Nav amd then Previous destinations

10. I retrieved the last entry

11. clicked it and then it failed again

12. steps 9 and 10 again

13. now it accepted the destination

14. it guided me thru upper level of the V'zano Bridge

15. I knew I had to take exit 18

16. then the location separated from actual position and it got lost completely until like 2 blocks before the right turn. But I already pulled over and took out my phone and set the destination on Google Maps which guided me to the end.

 

The bldgs in that section of Brooklyn aren't tall. In the Bay Ridge and Boro Park sections of Brooklyn there are no skyscrapers and the trees are not covering the sky.

Have you had your SD Card replaced? That fixed my navigation issues.

I have 13,000+ miles and last week a message appears as soon as we turn the car on, saying "Oil change required."  Was in the dealer to day for something else and they reset it (made it go away).  Service guy wasn't sure if it came on because of time (12 months) or some other reason. 

 

When it comes on again (hopefully not for another 12 months), I will try the instructions that fbov has provided.  It seems odd that the owner is given instructions on how to reset the message.

 

Why?  Some folks perform their own oil changes.

Hahahaha. I just had this idea, and couldn't resist...

 

 

...I don't know what it looks like in the car yet. :)

Good job, better version than mine:

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2648-show-us-your-wallpaper/?p=27976

The Ford OEM unit can be installed post-factory, though, right?  I'm guessing the alarm and remote start system are integrated with my current set up so they'll probably have to remove the whole thing.  I'll want the OEM module if possible.

The factory option gives you one FOB (for door unlock and liftgate open, etc), and integration into the cars display left of the speedometer.

The dealer option gives you a seperate fob for remote start w/ no integration into the displays, it just simply starts the car.

They are all made by Ford (at least the ones I'm talking about).

Don't try to use anything with a motor. In fact, it says so right in users manual:

 

"The power point is not designed for electric devices such as:

• Cathode ray tube type televisions

• Motor loads, such as vacuum cleaners, electric saws and other electric power tools, compressor-driven refrigerators, etc.

• Measuring devices, which process precise data, such as medical equipment, measuring equipment, etc.

• Other appliances requiring an extremely stable power supply: microcomputer-controlled electric blankets, touch sensor lamps, etc."

Good info but that's my point.

I did test it, and it does a good job of shutting off the outlet.