notquitesane

I only boosted one person so far. It was a British guy in a campground with a late 70's Ford Econoline based motorhome. He was surprised to see a C-MAX in Canada and was confused why it wasn't making noise when I pulled up. He waited for almost an hour for the campground to send someone boost him. It was almost checkout time and he saw me and asked for some help. My booster pack was dead at the time and I always carry booster cables in the back of my car, so I gave it a go. Used the terminals under the hood. Got him going pretty quick. The gan engine kicked in when we hooked up the cables. I know everything is pretty electronic in the cars now but I turned everything off except the HVAC blower fan. So yes it can be done with the terminals under the hood. It's not something I do often, but this guy was in need.

I've found an LED headlight bulb that works perfectly with a C-MAX and doesn't change the beam pattern and is completely plug and play. It's from Diode Dynamics, the SL1 H11 LED bulb. I've installed it with the optional anti-flicker modules since our cars low beams are pulsed. The anti-flicker modules are attached in-line. The led driver and anti-flicker module fit inside the headlight and can operate with the dust cap on. I'm pretty happy with them.

I don't like using Auto in the winter. It heats the car's interior up just fine, but after it gets to temperature, the fan speed decreases and allows the windows to fog up. I usually manually control it to keep the windows clear.

Thanks for this info. I purchased the MOOG stabilizer end links and installed them tonight. No more clunking when going over little bumps at low speed.

I do use it when I remember I have it! It always has worked well. If you think it's going to hit, you can grab the steering wheel and it'll cancel automatically. I'm amazed at how tight of a parking spot it can wiggle itself into. It just makes it really hard to get out of that tight space after!

Don't use the clear bulb, get an amber one. If you install a clear bulb, the turn signal will flash white instead of amber.

There is one bulb for the turn signal / parking light. It's an optical illusion that makes it seem like there are two bulbs. The second bulb is a reflection of the real one on the shiny lens of the turn signal housing. The bulb for the front turn signal light is a 3157A bulb. This has two filaments in it, one for dim mode, one for bright mode. One filament has burned while the other has not. This is why the bulb lights up with the headlights but doesn't light get brighter for the turn signal. Replace the 3157A bulb! The other small bulb circled in the diagram is for the triangle shaped sidemarker. It only comes on with the headlights. A quick edit, it could be a 3457A bulb, same shape, just rated at a slightly higher wattage and brighter. I can't tell because the bulb specification sheet in my car's manual is horribly wrong.

Well everything went back to working. I haven't washed my car or anything. Hopefully it will stay working...

Yes, that was the first thing I did was clean the sensors.

I have the parking sensors and they are wonderful when they work. Over the past couple weeks, the parking sensor on/off button will intermittently indicate OFF and won't turn on. Now it will immediately turn off as soon as I shift out of park into reverse. I've gone behind the car with the ignition on, car not running and in reverse. I can hear each of the 3 sensors tick, but only if I press my finger against them. Has anyone had this happen and get it fixed? If it is one of the sensors, I do believe the rear bumper cover has to come off, as I could not see the sensors from under the car. I've also found the wiring harness the sensors are connected to, with a connector right before it goes inside the body of the car. I'll pop that open and see if there is any contamination or anything like that. No warranty left so I'd like to see if I can fix this myself before having to go to the dealer. Anyone have any ideas?

Ford's evil decorative lug nut caps... I've replaced mine with McGard lug nuts. After getting my tires rotated every 8,000 km by different dealers, and another tire outfit changing my tires, my lug nut caps were pretty beat up. Was the same with my old 2008 Ford Fusion. I couldn't fit a socket on to re-torque the lug nuts. In order to replace them, I used a deep socket and a rubber mallet to smack the socket on enough to allow me to loosen the lug nut one at a time. I then installed the new lug nut and torqued to spec. My arms were sore after replacing them all! But I'll never have to go through that again! Whenever it comes time to replace the CMAX, the first thing I'll do to the new car is to replace the lug nuts with solid ones to save me some grief down the road...

I have about 76,000 kms on mine, averaging 5.8L / 100 km. I think that converts to 40.5 mpg. Going to get the windshield replaced before winter, along with new tires. I won't be able to make it through a winter with the tread I have left.

A bit of an update. Those JDM Astar 144 LED bulbs I posted above aren't very good. The dim mode is too bright. When the winter came and I was driving with my headlights on all the time, the leds started to burn out in a hurry. I ordered chinese copies on amazon, (BYOPTO is the brand) taken them apart and modified them so the dim mode is dimmer. So far so good. The JDM Astar ones cannot be taken apart to be modified. The modification process replaces a resistor inline with the wire that connects with the parking light wire. You replace the resistor with one of a greater resistance. I experimented and settled on using a 68 ohm 1/2 W resistor. It's a pain to get apart and a pain to put back together, using lots of epoxy. If you're handy with electronics and soldering, it could be a fun project. Another way of doing it would be to place the resistor in the wiring harness. The resistance value would be different as you are not removing the one present in the bulb. A bit of experimentation would be required. The rear turn signals, i've installed these. https://tinyurl.com/ydg8cpvm They are insanely bright, I hope they last. They also do not need resistors to prevent hyperflashing. They draw 18W and are a direct replacement bulb. No hyperflashing for these. I think I'm done. The fog lights and headlights are halogen, but i'm ok with that.

That's too bad. I've never experienced what SYNC services was because it was never offered in Canada. Guess it never will now.

Rain-X Latitude also fits because it supports the I&L wiper arms that our cars use for the front wipers.