Madmax98

Well I finally got my new reverse lights.  The LED chips on them are 2835 (really bright) and there are 15 of them.  It's eBay, so they overstate the specs.  It claims 15 1W led chips and 800 lumens (which I doubt).  At 14.5V, they consume 200mA.  That works out to about 3W of total power, so I doubt they are running them full power, or they are the less powerful versions of the 2835 led chips.  They fill the entire reverse reflector and you can see them from the side of the car.  The old Philips X-treme Vision ones I had before only illuminate the center of the reflector and you cannot see any light when you are at the side of the car.  I got the new ones from a seller on eBay located in the states.  Cost about $20 for 4 of them. 

 

Edit: I checked the Philips X-treme Vision bulbs.  They draw 200-225mA at 14.5V.

 

Here is what the LEDs look like.

 

Here is what the old X-treme Vision 921 look like in the reverse light housing.

 

Here is what the new LEDs look like in the reverse light housing.

 

I haven't used them at night yet, so I don't know if they put more light on the ground.  But at least they are visually brighter.

Those 2835 Reverse LED's do look like they fill out the housing better, curious if throw they light up more of the ground with the sideways orientation.

Got any pix of the new red brake/tail lights?

The xenondepot option  shows a CANBUS option for an additional $17. I certainly hope not to need resistors or canbus for use between park/brake light and based on your pricing mentioned @notquitesane, it looks like you didn't get canbus option.

http://www.xenondepot.com/7443-LED-Philips-12835B2-Bulb-p/12835b2.htm

Here's another Phillips 7443 option on ebay.

Vendor says the Phillips red are only 50 lumens (which is subjective according to some - so I assume vendor means that this is Lumen rating PER led, so this should be 8x50=400).

I'm considering purchasing to compare with white CK led option I am waiting on which another vendor claims to be 1400 lumen as brake, and about 700 as tail.  I have to think that 3x in white will still be brighter, even if a little pinker, I'd rather go for BRIGHTer, otherwise not much point just for speed and load....

a white ck 7443 option (still waiting to receive)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331236855437?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

here is another Phillips 7443 red led option

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161714122908?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'd argue that replacing the 12V battery (especially a 2.5 year old battery that passes some charging tests) is not necessarily a long term solution, if in fact there is some parasitic drain which could eventually kill the replacement battery prematurely (i.e. <3 yrs).

you could view your factory window sticker. 

 

I don't know if there is one on this website, but I've used the one located here.  http://www.fordf150.net/misc/window-sticker.php

Just enter your vin to see your window sticker.  The trim package should show up there.

Thanks, found it - 300A but also has Daytime Running Lights option....

No worries, it wasn't just you, I've got another seller saying their Phillips chart saying their 7443 should work too and not labeled as CK.  As long as ebay sellers are kind/trusting enough to refund me, it's just waiting for next order to come, some return shipping costs.   

I am surprised that the Phillips work, I wonder if any different from 2013 socket.

Got a link for where you sourced your Philips Xtreme Vision?

I found one seller with Red version, but I'm still not convinced Red ends up being brighter, even if color 'purer'.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161714122908?item=161714122908&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

I'm not sure where I read/saw that the Ford socket is 'Standard', but upon closer inspection, ground contacts are across the same side of the socket, making this a 'CK'  type socket after all according to many of the drawings out there at bulb vendor sites.

Not sure I can convert this bulb by bending pins around, or if I can find a CK style LED bulb replacement....will update later.

Click on image to read the label is a  W21/5W dual filament bulb I'm tring to replace.

Notice the inside pins light up the top filament which is the dimmer (park/tail) filament.

The outside pins light up the lower filament which is the brighter brake light.

Wow.  That's a bit of trouble you've been having with those brake lights.  The only thing I can think of is they didn't get the pins in the correct spot if it half works one way, and half works when spun 180°.  Can you post a link to what you have tried so far?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281663277363?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

failed

and

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-7443-7440-High-Power-CREE-30W-White-Reverse-Brake-Tail-Turn-LED-Light-Bulbs-/251882852345?hash=item3aa5634ff9&vxp=mtr

also failed

Pins match the incandescent dual filament W21/5W, but perhaps internal wiring to the LED's is screwy?

How hard can it be?

I am having a bear of a time finding a 7443 bulb that actually works, have gone through two failed attempts.

The ones I  have tried so far work EITHER as a brake only light, or if turn 180 degrees, then work ONLY as a park/tail light.

I don't get how these dual filaments get tested or why they don't work in same way as dual filament incandescent.

Interior contacts are for park light, exterior contacts for brighter brake, 2 different brightnesses...

Also don't get how vendors test these and why doesn't work in my car.

Any recommendations?

I had pretty good luck with the side mirrors, tilting them up  and in all the way and using a mini-crow bar to gently push the center area outwards away from mirror holder. pushing out on that one spot popped the whole mirror off pretty cleanly.

and yeah, I hear ya, the white led batch I got is nice led quality, but not killer bright lumens since is same ones used for license plate and trunk area....

Hi Madmax98, 

 

Was this working prior to updating your phone to 8.3, and is it only that one message that's not working? 

 

Rebecca

Thanks for reply Rebecca.

This was first time I tried.

Curiously, I just got my Energi to finally read me a new text message.

Only seems to be able to read the brand new messages received WHILE connected to sync.

It's a start..... ;)

sync responds to 'Listen to Messages' command with 'Message 1 : "   .......", so she knows there's a message to be read, she announces that she's about to read the message, but she can't seem do the text to speech of the actual message content , so she says nothing....

Having odd issue, trying to avoid master reset

2013 Energi

s/w 4.3.13171 - allegedly latest up to date software.

I do have sirius trial account - not sure if issue there.

Apple iphone6 ios 8.3 up to date.

blue tooth notifications on,

Unread text message showing on my phone.

When I send sync command 'Listen to Text Messages'

it will say 'Message 1',but then it will not read any of the message.

Message is 1 word "Regular".

tried unpairing, repairing

tried key cycling

tried reset phone

tried restart phone

called ford help and all they gave me so far was - try master reset.

I really don't want to go through the 24 hour connection headache for myford mobile which they say I will lose with master reset.

Anybody got any success / similar story and resolution ?

Thanks!

How can we tell if I have 300a v. 301a, etc?  Please add those instructions to the poll itself , thanks.

Any other advice on side mirror removal to get at bulbs? 

A little anxious not to crack fragile glass.

What tools did you use, if any, is it best to try to pull out one tab, then move mirror to try to pop next tab, etc. ?

Thanks.

I've seen some youtube videos where the installer just grounds the ground side of resistor to the body of the car rather than a specific ground wire.

Any pros/cons to this?

Aren't all the grounds tied to the chassis at some point?

And where did you mount the resistor for the rear turns?

FYI,  Unfortunately,  I am in process of trying to return the 7443 rear brake/park bulbs I bought since they did not function on the 'low'/park setting. 

I got LEDs for front turn signal.  Look good, however they are hyperflashing, so I'll need to splice a resistor in.

Would you 1)

splice in resistor and keep INSIDE the front bulb housing (risk of heat buildup)

2) splice in resistor near the bulb housing but run the wires outside the rubber seal (risking less than air/water tight seal where cables pass under rubber seal)

3) splice into the main connector cable ( requires cutting into the nice cable cover, retaping it up, not to mention trying to figure out which cables are which). - Not sure where I can find this, but the cable connector going into the bulb housing does appear to have numbered connections.

Could be because all the Energi have the keyless entry / starting? That would have a different electronics set up.

Perhaps. 

I decided to fork out the cash for new battery from Ford Dealer as they wouldn't offer to cover it since exceeded the car warranty (car has 90K miles already) even though battery under 2 years old.

Been a couple days without battery death, keeping an eye on it, but still concerned might be a slow death if draining in some circumstances I'm not aware of....

Reverse lights don't stay on that long, so it should stay fairly cool.

OK good, yesterday i noticed a bulb had slipped out, so I siliconed them in, kinda sticky and tricky to try not to touch any of the silver top end, hope this holds them in....

Why not Energi I wonder.  My Energi is suffering from dead battery issues (died twice today so far....)

I looked up my car and it is listed.  Then, I called my Ford dealer to make am appointment to have 15B04 performed and was told that it's a Ford Motor Co issue and that the dealership had nothing to do with it.  A customer satisfaction matter.  

 

Anyone have more on this?  I can't call Ford until Tuesday.

 

Thanks.

Yikes, my assumption is that Ford reimburses authorized dealers for the work, correct?

Killed battery again twice today.

First time cleaning the trunk door while trunk open for about a half hour.

2nd time, all I did was remain sitting in the car after turning it off (and it had been running in EV Later mode for the previous 20 minutes.

I even opened and closed the door after 5 minutes, thinking that might turn off the DRL, but I'm not sure if they were on for the 20 minutes sitting in the car.....

Decided to purchase replacement battery from dealer the next day, since Ford not including Energi in the CSP.

I'm only hoping that my VIN will someday be added to the CSP so I can apply/submit receipt for refund. Still will be on pins and needles if there is a drain still killing the new battery slowly...  Will check back in a few weeks...

could silcone burn / melt that close to LED or does it stay that cool?

Was/is the defective TCU (cell phone modem) covered under any recall?

Do you think the draining corresponded with some defective attempt to connect to Sync/ my ford mobile systems?

I've got a trickle charger, what is make/model of a de-sulfating charger?

@plus3 golfer - During most of my tests where voltage drain began, I was stopping the drain at 9ish Volts (1-2 minutes), just so that I could start engine without jump start.

If I didn't stop at 9ish, DRL would stay on even after other gear/displays shut down, and eventually (within 5 minutes) DRL start flickering and would completely kill battery to point of not being able to start without external jump start.

15B04 didn't show up for my VIN on lookup nor on login ;(