okashira

Mine uses two Cree XML-2 LED's per light. XML-2's are available in all sort of bins with varying light quality (CRI) and color. It would actually be really trivial to de-solder these and solder on some with the color desired. http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED%20Components%20and%20Modules/XLamp/Data%20and%20Binning/XLampXML2.pdf http://www.mouser.com/Cree-Inc/Optoelectronics/LED-Lighting/LED-Emitters/High-Power-LEDs-White/_/N-8usfj?P=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 Actually, I think I will have to do this. Something like 4500K would draw less attention. I can also cherry pick the highest binned emitters for best output. Choose your CRI and color here: http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED%20Components%20and%20Modules/XLamp/Data%20and%20Binning/XLampXMBL.pdf

Good point. It's supposed to be dim. I'll leave it. Thanks for the info. :)

There are literally hundreds of variations of LED headlights available from china. Look around and you'll find something that fits what you're looking for. I'll take pics of mine after the resistors come in and I have time to wire and mount them properly. I think mine are around 5500K ... they don't fit right because the connector comes out at 90° and interferes with the housing. I had to trim the key tabs and rotate them, and Ill use silicone RTV to hold them in the socket. Ill be using these resistors: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=280-CR15-50-RCvirtualkey21980000virtualkey280-CR15-50-RC 58 cents each

I also find the inability to turn off the DRL But, you can use FORScan to turn them off for a drive-in purpose. Open the Body Control Module, add the control options for the headlights and set them both for 0%, and just leave it open.

thanks. they are working fine then Also did the outer tails, and not happy with them. they are crap. They could be good, but poor quality. One is brighter then the other, and the first one has the projector LED flash randomly with brakes. I will avoid all in the future with the center projector crap. useless already ordered some replacements Edit: so that means the inner tails should be 1156 style NOT 1157 style. I wonder if mine would be brighter if I flipped them 180 degrees or shorted the two positive pins.

As I posted in other thread, got the LED headlights/DRLs working with 50 ohm parallel resistor. Pretty happy with that. Also installed the LED amber turns in the mirrors and the white puddle lights. Was pretty easy and I didn't do it like the other guides say to do it. I accessed it from the outside by adjusting the mirror in and down. just pull on the mirror a little and if you have small hands you can get in there and fish the lights out and back in. And did the inner red tails. Question - They don't seem to be dual brightness- are they supposed to light up brighter with applied brakes, or light up at all without HL on and brakes applied?? Led on left stock on right. In the pic the LED looks dimmer,but I couldn't see the difference in person. The inners don't get brighter with applied brakes, and don't light up with applied brakes with HL off. Is that normal?

Good news.. First, the ebay canbus thing didnt work. But I tried the rheostat. It's a 50 ohm, so I set it to max first... 50 ohm in parallel. Worked perfect!! Going to order some 50 ohm resistors and run with it. MUCH better then the typcial 6ohm people use. Less power, less heat. 14.4^2 V^2/50 Ohm = 4.15W compared to 14.4^2/6 = 35W They worked perfect, came on instantly in DRL mode and in HL on mode. Even dimmed properly in DRL mode.

I will try soon, I have not worked on it, but I received a 25W Rheostat (parallel resistor testing) and another chinese canbus error canceler thing to try this week

9 in series?!? No, 4 in series. That comes to 14.4V/4 = 3.6V per cell. I am going to modify the charger when the car is plugged into 110V (energy) so that the 12V is charged to ~15.4V (3.85V per cell or ~70%) To get a little more range. Charging below 0C is a concern, however not so much in Houston. I do have a plan to address this, however it may be okay on it's own because the car apply such a low voltage (i.e. 3.6V per cell) When the cells are cold, their internal resistance rises dramatically, so when the Dc/Dc applies 14.4 v, they will only take a very slow charge anyway if they are dead (~3V/cell)

Don't need to do anything to avoid overcharging - the car only applies 14.4V. That's about 45% charge. There are excursions to about 15.3V, but that's still not even fully charged. Yeah I make them . The only risk for fire is physical impact on the cells longitudinally... not a concern at all.

The factory battery is about 27 Amp Hour. My next li-ion battery, I will use 14p so it will be about 43 Amp Hour and about 6 lbs. Note that lithium are more efficient then lead acid - they put out more energy for the same Ah rating. You are right about the electronics, but that is a poor bandaid for a problem that should be fixed directly. I know the Energi does not have this issue. You can also just keep a small 4s lithium ion battery in the glovebox charged to 14.4V for jump starting the car. A small 1-2 lb battery would be fine. This is what I do.

10 Ah. and 6lbs lol Li Ion 12v battery I am running now in my cmax is 22Ah and 3lbs. Next one will be ~35Ah and 5 lbs. Doesn't even need supercaps. I tested it starting my 1999 Corolla 5x in a row, didn't get hot at all.

The problem is not the LED but the car. A cap could make it worse. I will try it... but I think an RC filter would be better,something like 0.5 ohm - 1 ohm series resistor.

My Chinese VCM II / Ford IDS shipped today,maybe I get lucky and there are settings for lights that can be changed ...:-/

I did get the led headlight working, kinda. The problem is the PWM circuit in the car. The car uses PWM to control the bulb brightness. The car uses two settings: 66% duty cycle for DRL, and 90% duty cycle for HL. The problem is, between 60% and 91%, the car has some reaction with the LED driver and thinks there's a short. But it works fine from 1%-59% and at 100%. Even dims the LEDs fine. Except that you can only use those settings when running FORScan so it's useless. Don't think I want to load up FORScan just to turn on DRL and HL everytime I drive. Maybe a custom OBD command can be programmed to always tell the car to set a certain brightness. There is some reaction between the PWM and the LED driver circuit.. I will try a RC circuit smooth it out... or will have to build another circuit to piggy back. Ford could fix this with a software update .. I have some "new," adapter circuit coming from China that might work.

Dunno. Its an early 2013 I think. Low vin #. Guess I'll find out

The benefits are numerous.. they are a no brainer. I cancelled my order for the turns on ebay, found some on Aliexpress for $2.50 each. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-Car-Brake-Light-LED-Automobile-Lamps-W21W-W21-5W-27-LED-SMD5050-T20-7440-7443/1611976111.html http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2X-T25-3156-3157-3047-3357-Car-Auto-Stop-Brake-Turn-signal-Backup-light-bulb-5050SMD/932141725.html Think they will fit?

I need less then stock power draw. thats the point of the LED's lol I guess for the turns it's not a big deal.

That's 6 ohm in parallel, right? Crazy. Hopefully something more reasonable like 20 ohm will work. I'll try the Rheostat I have coming At least the turn signals are not on much. For the headlights, If I need anything lower then ~30 ohm, I will just hook up a separate 12v source.

Ok, ok, you got me, I will go all LED except high beam and fogs. Ordered these:

Updated Master list below. Should be all correct now. Thanks. Just orders some 1157 Red for the brakes. Outer brake/Tail - 7443 CK Red - 2 Brake - 1157 Red - 2 Low Beam - H11 or H9 MOD - 2 Front Turn Signal - 3457/3157 Amber - 2 Mirror - 194 Amber - 2 Side Marker - 194 Amber - 2 Mirror Puddle - 194 White - 2 Rear Turn Signal - 7440 Amber - 2 Rear Center Brake - 194 Red - 2 License Plate - 194 White - 2 Reverse Light - 921 White -2 Got these coming: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191604813306?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Ill take the risk on the $10 pair. With 12 5630 LED they might be bright enough. Should also add to list what lights require / might need / and what type of resistor mod is needed. Soon I will work on the headlights. Had some issues, I have a 25W rheostat coming to help with testing, otherwise I will wire in a separate 12v ignition switched source because I don't want to use giant 25W load resistors. I have EVERYTHING ready to go except F/R turn signals. It's good news you got some to work without load resistors. Might as well do those too. cheap enough.

Nah I don't want to know what you paid. haha. 1157???? Here is my list: Outer brake/Tail - 7443 CK Red - 2Brake - 1157 Red - 2Low Beam - H11 or H9 MOD - 2Front Turn Signal - 3457/3157 Amber - 2Mirror - 194 Amber - 2Side Marker - 194 Amber - 2Mirror Puddle - 194 White - 2Rear Turn Signal - 7440 Amber - 2Rear Center Brake - 194 Red - 2License Plate - 194 White - 2Reverse Light - 921 White -2 confirm the two mistakes I had?

Thanks .. how about the outer tails, the red 3157's ? here's what I got: http://www.ebay.com/itm/391087341116?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=660457110108&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT less then half of what you paid.. Ill post a pic to compare with stock So the 7443's need to be CK How about the 3157 Also got these I will install soon. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111352932312?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT And a bunch of http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-x-T10-LED-194-168-W5W-Car-Side-Wedge-Tail-white-blue-red-green-yellow/2014591124.html (i like cheap. :D)

LInk to those ebay bulbs? I have some ebay & china bulbs coming and ill share results. And are you rewiring them for the CK socket?