dtorres

Not exactly sure what you're asking but if you are backing up (sensors are now on) and another vehicle moved into the range of the sensors (because it was backing up) the sensors would beep in the same manner as if you backed up towards any other stationary object. The closer the object gets the faster the beeps get until they're continous. There is no specific tone though to denote that what's behind you is another vehicle and not a stationary object.

I am a big fan of electrochromatic mirrors. Unfortunately it was not an option on my SE model and only comes with the SEL model. So I installed an aftermarket Gentex mirror (good condition used unit obtained on eBay for $125) that included Homelink which was also an SEL only option. Here's how: 1. Purchase a Gentex or Mito electrochromatic mirror. - Don't get one with a temp sensor because we already have that and it's extra install work for the sensor - Make sure the wire harness is included if you buy used. Also if it comes with the wire cover ask for the long one (not the short one) 2. Remove the overhead console by pulling on the sides first, then the rear and finally the front. The clips are on the sides and rear but not the front. To help understand how it's held review the attached pictures. 3. Unplug the power connector at the rear of the console. I had difficulty unplugging the 2nd plug for the mic and didn't want to break it so I left it attached. Instead I zipped tied the console onto some of the roof framework since I couldn't completely remove it and let it hang so that the weight of the console wouldn't pull on the mic wires. 4. Locate the needed wires on the console power plug. See pictures below for better understanding. The wires are coded as follows: Constant 12V is yellow with a light purple stripe and Ground is black with a white stripe. I could not find a good ignition 12V source in the console plug. The one that exits in this plug is 8.5V when the ignition is on and decreases to 4.5V when the headlights are turned on which isn't sufficient to trigger the mirror properly. For the 12V ignition you'll need to tap a 12 volt ignition controlled fuse at the fuse panel. 5. I used the included wire taps to attached the mirror harness wires to my existing overhead console plug 6. Run the wires above the roof liner and out the slot that already exists in the front of the headliner to the mirror 7. For you ignition 12V source you'll need to buy an "Add a Fuse mini plug" from your local auto parts store (Google the term to see what it looks like). Run a twisted copper auto grade 18 to 20 gauge wire from the overhead console area along the top of the headliner to the A pillar on the passenger side. You'll need to remove the plastic cover on the A pillar (it's held in by three blue push pins) by pulling on it outwards starting towards the top. Be aware that the top blue push pin is attached to the plastic A pillar cover that you're removing. You'll need to detach it before you can completely remove the A pillar cover (it just slides off). Run your wire down the passenger A pillar and zip tie it onto the existing wires along this path. Ensure not to interfere with or run the wire in front of the airbag in this location. 8. At the dash you'll need to fish the wire from the top of the dash (at the base of the passenger A pillar) down through the dash to below the dash where the interior fuse panel is (above the foot area on the passenger side). To remove the soft cover above the passenger foot area (which covers the fuse panel) you'll need to pull off two black plastic plugs. They come off by squeezing them and pulling downwards. Then gently pull down the soft cover which hides the fuse panel. I had good luck using a stiffer lower guage wire to fish through this area from the bottom up. After fishing the stiffer wire up through the dash I attached my new wire to it and pulled the wire down through the dash. 9. Next pull the 7.5 amp mini fuse in the 85 position. It's a 7.5 amp fuse which is ignition controlled and is labeled in the manual as "Electronic 15 feed". 10. Attach the wire you fed down through the dash to the "Add a fuse" you purchased. Place the 7.5 amp you removed from the vehicle into slot A on the "Add a fuse" and a new 5 amp fuse in slot B. Put the "Add a fuse" into slot 85 where you removed the 7.5 amp fuse from. On the overhead console side attach your ignition 12V wire to the red wire on your new mirror plug which should be labeled ignition 12V. Your wiring is now all set. 11. Remove your existing mirror using a flat head screwdriver to reach underneath from the bottom. Used a thin flathead and gently push up away from the glass as you pull up on the mirror. This guy on the Focus website explains it well: http://www.focusfana...ad.php?t=257660 12. Slide the new mirror onto the windshield wedge and tighten it. Mine required a T20 torx screw driver. 13. Attached the plug to the rear of the mirror and test. If all works well program the Homelink feature per the included instructions that came with your mirror

Try talking to the other dealer to see if they'll match the deal and if they can guide you on how to recoup your deposit from the first dealership. I think your first dealership is full of it. There is interest in the C-Max and I think with time that will grow but the demand isn't there yet. Most people who see mine don't even know what it is. Ford has spent much more time and money advertising the upcoming Fusion Hybrid. Not to mention Ford just expanded the $1000 rebate on the car through the end of the year. Why do that if the car is so hot. There's interest but not a ton of sales yet so they're full of it.

I think your dealer was pretty optimistic. 6 to 8 weeks seems to be the norm for Ford orders.

I have the ambient lighting and it has two adjustments. The first is a button that toggles through the available colors. The second is a turn knob the allows you to adjust how bright they are all the way to off. There's lights for the front foot wells and one for the rear passenger foot well. There's also the cupholder light and one at the front door handles. Nice little touch is when you open a front door the light in the door handle for that door only turns red to show its not closed. When the door is fully closed it changes back to green.

Finally hit first fill up at 494 miles with the dash reading 22 miles until empty. Took 12.3 gallons to fill it up.

Can't remember the brand right now but I've been using the Matte Finish tire dressings for a few months now and love it. None of the sticky residue for dust to collect or built up over time. They give you a nice clean look without the trouble of the high gloss stuff.

My understanding is once the VIN is issued your car is usually built within one to two weeks of the VIN being issued. There are several websites where you can pull up the window sticker once you have the VIN and it will show you the expected build date for your vehicle. All U.S. built C-Max's are built in the Michigan Auto Plant (M.A.P. for short). Unfortunately the dealer can not predict when it will ship after being built. It could go out the next day or sit at the factory for a month as the one I ordered is doing. That's why the dealer let me switch to one that had already arrived on his lot.

After one week and very little effort I'm also averaging 40mpg. I'm just under 1/2 tank with 320 miles. I drive a 50/50 split of city and highway miles and was doing 65 to 70mph on the freeway.

I have the navigation option on my SE as part of the MyFord Touch package. I've tried it a couple of times on known routes to see how it would perform and was pleased. Ford has done some improvements to the maps and they look alot better then they did in my '08 Taurus X.

I purchased the keyless entry keypad add-on accessory from Ford for my 2013 C-Max and was having a hard time programming it to the car by following the included instructions. After some trial and error and Google searches I found the right combination to program it. This method is for an SE model that has a key and ignition. Not sure how the process works on the SEL model with keyless entry. 1. Close all doors and buckle the front safety belts. 2. Use the door lock control switch to electronically unlock all door locks. 3. Turn the ignition from the OFF to RUN position 4 times in rapid succession (within 6 seconds), with the fourth turn ending in OFF. NOTE: If no action is taken within 10 seconds after a transmitter has been programmed, the programming sequence ends. NOTE: Despite the instructions the door locks will not lock and unlock to signal the vehicle is ready to be programmed. 4. Within 10 seconds, press any button on the RKE transmitter to be programmed. After the first RKE transmitter is programmed, press a button on each subsequent RKE transmitter to be programmed (each within 10 seconds of each other). Finally press the 7/8 and 9/0 buttons on the keypad at the same time for one to two seconds then release them. NOTE: Despite what the keyless entry keypad instructions say the door locks will not cycle locked then unlocked after programming each trasmitter. On the C-Max there will be no notification after each device is programmed. NOTE: If programming mode is exited and no key is learned, all keys (if one or two were programmed) are erased for RKE transmitter operation. 5. Exiting the programming mode is accomplished if one of the following occurs: - The key transitions to the RUN position. - 10 seconds have passed since entering programming mode or since the last RKE transmitter was programmed. - The maximum number (8) of RKE transmitters have been programmed. 6. Check the operation of the transmitter. If the door locks do not respond for the programmed RKE transmitter(s), wait several seconds and press the button again.

I ordered mine on August 5th, recieved a VIN two weeks later and it was built September 7th. However it's been sitting on the lot in Michigan ever since. If you check Ford's website under dealer inventory you'll see what vehicles your local dealer has on order or in stock. In my case I checked and it turned out the dealer I ordered from had just recieved a similar vehicle to what I was waiting for. I talked to the sales manager and he let me swap out the one they recieved for the waiting still sitting at the Michigan plant. In most cases I think they'd rather sell one now then take the chance you'll cancel your order because you're tired of waiting. There are a few ways to track your vehicle. First your dealer/salesman has the means to track it just bug them for weekly updates. There's also a guy who does it at Blue Oval Forums but he has strict rules for his service becuase he does it on his own time and doesn't want to get overwhelmed with requests so read his rules first. The easiest method I found to track the order was through Twitter using the Ford Service account. If you tweet Ford Service your VIN they'll gladly track it for you. If you haven't recieved a VIN two to three weeks after ordering there may be something wrong with the way the dealer submitted your order.