Taiwwa

Hey I'm in the same situation. I'm having a really hard time finding a shop that will do the repair using the salvage transmission. The main supplier for these looks like LKQonline. I see a few on ebay for around $1500.

Car has 130k miles. Car was making loud noises so I changed transmission fluid. In videos it had made it seem like 5 point something liters were needed. I ended up putting in six liters. Drove it some more. Still noisy. Not all gears, but certain ratios especially low speeds going up hill were very noisy. So the other day I opened it up again and put in another liter. Now it works much better. It may still need some more because I can hear a bit of noise at certain ratios so I’ll put some more in ends oil change. But initially I only put in six liters because that was what the videos I saw advised, and because that was what I roughly measured in removing the used fluid. In fact, I thought I may have slightly overfilled it at the time. So what gives? Could the transmission fluid have been vaporized over that time? I thought it was a self contained system. I think that it is a good idea to change the fluid at 100k miles, not 150k or 250k.

Cylinder 1 misfire in my car. I've already replaced spark plugs and coil. That leaves the fuel injector. How difficult is this operation? I may give it a go before relenting and taking it to a mechanic.

Currently, my 2013 runs fine, good as the day I bought it. I'm a little paranoid about the transmission possibly failing. Reports are that it might. How hard is it to replace the transmission? I often see transmissions on sale on ebay for $1200. And battery packs High voltage for $400. A lot of the local repair shops probably can't handle it, but there's got to be one that can.

My cmax with 110k miles has this light scraping noise. It sounds like a tire rubbing against the wheel well. It happens intermittently. Often shows up while accelerating. I took it to a mechanic who was unable to pinpoint it, but said that he noticed that it occurred when under load. What could this be? I’m thinking maybe a wheel alignment got knocked out after hitting a pothole? Or maybe a ball bearing is going bad? Or what else? Secondly, what regular maintenance should I take the car in for

I think I left my car lights on overnight in my garage. So my car battery is dead. I have it hooked up to a battery charger that plugs into AC power. I've had it hooked up for several hours and nothing. The weird thing is that the battery charger has a charge indicator on it and it seems to think that the battery is fully charged. Battery was replaced in April of this year. So the weird thing is this: When I use the power seat on the car, it still sorta works. It's like it needs the power seat in order to draw power. The mood lights will turn on and there will be a whirring sound behind the console. And I will hear the AC charger click a few times. The car itself won't power on, and it will eventually die down again. But if I don't use the power seat, it will not draw power at all and the touch start (this is a 2013 SEL) won't do anything. What in the world is this? I'm going to leave it connected overnight, but I don't think it will charge it.

Update: successfully hauled a washing machine. And this car is damn fun to drive on winding country roads. A few months back I was looking into replacing this car with a Chevy Bolt, but the Bolt is a B class car and it wouldn’t have this level of cargo capacity. And another thing is that when car reviewers review cars, they often overlook important things like the size of the opening for loading bulky things.

and 36 15/16th?

Still on the original traction battery?

The dimensions of the machine itself are as follows: Width: 27"Depth: 31 9/16"Height: 36 15/16" Could this fit in the C-Max with rear seats down? Alternatively, I guess I could try hoisting it on a roof rack.

What is that?

Anyone install a towing hook for trailer or boat? Did the car handle fine?

I do kinda feel that 12v batteries should be designed like power tool battery packs. Slide in and out to replace. Also, they ought to have some sort of monitoring system which tells you how much life is left on them. It is really archaic how that battery is implemented.

It was the battery. I hooked up a voltmeter and it showed 2.5v. Bought a new one from auto zone. It was $165 or so. Turning in the old battery brought it down to $143. I arced it a few times installing the battery. Boy o boy was that scary.

One quick Q: isn't the 12V Lithium Ion? Could that explain a sudden death of the battery? I'm thinking right now that the 12V battery needs replacing. Only thing I can think of.

Well, one of the chargers indicated that the battery was full after a few minutes. But the car is still quite dead.

Are there two batteries in the car? One in the rear and one in the back, and of course the traction battery? I got the rear one charged fully, as I said earlier, but the connection from the front seems to be taking its time.

One morning it just wouldn't work at all. Nothing lights up. I have gotten to the battery in the rear of the vehicle and attached a charger to it. the charger says that it is fully charged. Still nothing. Any ideas? This is not good...

Update: weirdest thing just happened. I went to the car, turned it on to see if it would...and the sound worked again. It hasn't worked for the past five days and now randomly it works again. What could be going on here? I really think it might have been some sort of 12v battery hiccup.

I left the car alone for 3-4 days last week and when I went to start it up, the entertainment would not work. It played for a little bit, would not change volume, now it just will not play at all. Not only that, but phone sync does not work and the backup light does not beep. Probably the speakers are not powering up. I searched around and there is a thread here saying that you need to pull some fuses? Like fuse 69 and 59, and maybe 67. It should be the fuse box underneath the glove box. Now, it looks like there are also fuse boxes in the engine area and the rear. Those control other functions as well? What replacement fuses should I get? Fuses are cheap, right? This morning the car was dead. I had to jump it. It is a push button SEL. I've had the battery die before on this car, except at that time I had run the cooling system while cleaning it so it was kind of expected when the battery died. This time around, the battery died for no apparent reason. The High Voltage Battery was also fine, and had plenty of charge left when I turned it on. Why then would it die? Could these be related? The audio system not working and the car being dead. Perhaps I need to change the 12v battery? It seems impossible to find replacements for this, even at Walmart.

I just tried installing 235 55R17 and it will not fit on §y C-Max.

I live in a hilly area and today the bottom cover of my car was dragging on the pavement. I think I might get larger tires when it comes time to change them. Something like 225/60R17. Can this work?

So I have a conundrum. The aux input requires RCA-3.5mm cables, and they keep on breaking on me. Besides that, I can't use the center console controls for them. The bluetooth audio sometimes stutters, and I can tell the audio quality difference. And I tend to have a separate audio player than my phone for music since google Nav will interrupt the music playback. when connecting via USB disc mode, it will reindex the music files every time I start up. Music CD's tend to get scratched and take up lots of space. What's the best way to play music in this car? SEL model, sony audio fwiw.

Returning to this thread. Yeah, I get that losing 3-4MPG isn't great, but if you're still getting in the high 30's or low 40's, that's far less of a loss than if you went from like 17MPG to 12 MPG. I'm seriously thinking that I'm going to ditch LRR's when it comes time to change. There are a lot of gravel roads here and the LRR's don't seem good at all for them. Like, they have chunks ripped out of them thanks to the gravel roads. Also, occasionally on wet pavement in summertime my tires are slipping. Hybrids IMO probably need LRR's less than other cars because the hybrid powertrain is so efficient.

Took my Cmax hybrid to an independent mechanic. They didn't want to do some work on it because they were afraid of the liability from the battery. How tough is it to disconnect the batteries?