mtta

My 12V battery died today and it has done this almost exactly on an annual basis. Each time, I've had roadside assistance come to jump start. It has always been fine once it got jump started. Not interested in heading to the stealership and having them replace the 12V battery as I've read through others on the forum with no particular result from that. But just as an FYI here's the exact dates that the 12V has needed a jump. It's a cold hard fact that there's a problem, of course, and no solution.

Roadside Assistance
Claim:  | Date: 2/26/2022
Roadside Assistance
Claim:  | Date: 2/17/2021
Roadside Assistance
Claim:  | Date: 2/1/2019
Roadside Assistance
Claim:  | Date: 2/6/2018
Roadside Assistance
Claim:  | Date: 1/24/2017

Got a 2013 C-Max in 2016, so I'm thinking about getting a 2018 Niro in 2021

Thanks guys. If front tires were worn and back had plenty of life... buying two, I'd put them on the back... and move the used back tires up front. I no longer encounter much snow (nor sleet, freezing rain, slush, road salt and rust). With two different back tires, moving them up front would not work because it would throw off the handling. 

I feel more comfortable with the plug now, and probably checking tire pressure every month or so to keep aware.

 

looks like from detroit to miami  tesla has super chargers every hundred miles on i-75  with even more "destination chargers" at hotels, malls, ect...

 

What "should" happen is every rest stop on the main interstates gets a couple of pay superchargers that work with all electric cars. Plenty of parking space around these and reduced risk of local traffic. Natural place to take a break and wait for the charge to finish.

Checking the current map I would be unsure of some of the locations, meaning the Meier parking lot, Starbucks, etc would not convince me I could rely on them. If Tesla went to a state government and planned each rest stop then it would seem useful.

And just to add, Tesla's "free charging" is meant for travel only -- they did it so their drivers could drive across the country -- they aren't meant for everyday use. Tesla has even started reminding drivers that and may even start enforcing at some point, as local drivers at some locations have prevented people who are actually traveling from being able to recharge in a timely manner.

 

We do need, as a society, to create more charging stations. Of course, at this point it is something of a "chicken and egg" situation -- without charging stations you don't have much demand for BEVs, but without BEV's there is no demand for charging stations. Worse, most of those buying BEVs right now do it as a second vehicle so they can always charge it at home (never need to take it beyond it's range). At some point, it seems like someone (likely will have to be government) will need to invest in charging stations to get them up and running, which will then fuel BEV sales, which will drive demand for additional charging stations.

 

Of course, we still need better batteries. While having close to a 300 mile range is workable, the fact remains it still doesn't compare to cars (like the C-Max) which can get 600 miles or more on a single tank of gas.

You could suggest a gas-station chain installing a pay charger at each station, around the side of the building. But there is no pricing model in place, and it still takes something like 30 minutes to use a "supercharger". If you install one or two, people can't rely on it being available for use, because someone might already be there. So I can't imagine chargers being installed more places than at malls, rest stops, etc. May be more of a market for chargers at apartment places.

I think more and more cars will be hybrids, and as batteries improve the gas engines will shrink. All-gas cars, and all-battery cars, may both wind up being niche products. People will commute with battery power, and travel with gas.

The problem with this kind of analysis is that they always use highway MPG or mixed MPG. 

 

The vast majority of people commuting are NOT cruising at 65mpg, they are in traffic. Just because you're "on a highway" doesn't mean you're doing "highway miles". The average consumer is too ignorant to understand that. On my commute my C-Max gets 45mpg and up to 57mpg on a good day. The Volvo V70 I had before under these conditions would probably be getting about 15mpg. 

 

But the typical car buyer looks at the Volvo and says "Oh I sit in gridlock on the highway every day so I will get 30mpg!"

It matters what you do. My highway commutes in terrible traffic get over 50 MPG, since I sit back and accept a slow average speed. In lighter traffic I'll get 44 MPG, due to the requirement to speed up to 60 mph.

How most people drive ruins their MPG. Accelerating randomly to scream up to the next red light probably adds 20-30% to people's gas bills.

This is definitely an issue I have, in trying to figure out city/highway. Once I leave my neighborhood, since I live at the edge of the city, 40 mph is about the lowest speed limit I see. This also is a challenge with mpgs -- I have that minumum of 40 mpg speed limits but often still have lights every 1/2 mile or so. This means I accelerate up to 40 or higher, then may need to stop in half a mile or mile, so I don't get a chance to cruise under electric power long enough to "pay off" the energy used to accelerate. Worse, the lights tend to use pressure plates to determine when to change, making the lights hard to predict.

The other issue I have seen - especially in quickly growing areas - is untimed traffic lights. More effort by local governments to sync their traffic signals would result in a meaningful improvement. Ideally you would have a 45 mph speed limit and by actually proceeding at 40-45, you would only catch a red light once in every several signals.

Thanks for your thoughts. Looking at a little over 4/32 left. I think this set could last another year or around 9000 miles.

Major construction is across the street from me, and I know for a fact if I bought new tires now, I'd get a nail within days. This favors keeping the current set.

I have to agree with this. Kia/Hyundai seems to be doing something really smart here; they have the Hyundai Ioniq which seems to be targeted directly at the Prius, they also have Kia, using the same powertrain and frame, making the Niro, so they also have a CUV styled vehicle. I'm really interested to see the final EPA numbers, the driveability/comfort of these cars, and the final price. Additionally, it seems like they may have intentionally styled the Ioniq to look "normal", for the people who don't want to shout, "I'm driving a hybrid" -- particularly since most of those would likely buy a Prius anyway, as a status symbol.

 

I suspect my next car may end up being a Kia Niro.

+1

Looking for feedback on what to do about my tires. Bought my C-Max used and it's at 36k miles.

CarFax showed one tire repaired, and one tire replaced at 28k miles. This means I have three original tires with 36k on them, and one new-ish tire on the back right with 8k miles on it. All are the Michelin Green X Energy Saver, rated A Traction / A Temperature / 480 Treadwear.

However, I have observed the one "repaired" tire is basically on the verge of being a sidewall plug. Picture:

Having checked air pressure it is holding PSI just the same as the other tires and I guess it has lasted 7k miles as-is. But, does it look safe and how long will it last?

First thought is just grab another Michelin and replace the plugged tire. But then the back tires will be new-ish and fronts will only have about 10k left before needing replacement.  Probably would cost about $200 for the one now and $400 for the fronts later meaning $600 total. Disadvantage is after paying all this out, I would have mismatched ages (one with 8k already on it to worry about down the line).

Should I just replace all 4 now? Advantage is I could switch to a great-but-not-as-pricey tire, getting the discount for a full set. Probably would cost about $130 per tire, getting everything for about $520. Guess the almost-new Michelin just gets sacrificed because I have no place to store it.

Wondering if you all have seen front tires wear faster than the backs. My last car was like this and the backs could easily last 1.5x the fronts, meaning it was cost effective to just do front tires at one point.

To close the loop on this, replacement of the sensor was completed and the lights are now working normally. I ultimately returned to the dealer and they replaced the sensor. I was worried it might be a bad wire or something more tricky. It wound up being my 5th visit, so I could not be pleased with my service but am pleased that the headlights no longer shine in the midday sun. According to them the computer threw the trouble code when I brought it back on a sunny day (and the problem was actively occurring), but didn't show a code on a cloudy day when I first went.

Plus 3 Golfer, thanks for mentioning the proper name - it is indeed a "Sun Load" sensor that I may need. I couldn't find it anywhere searching with the wrong names.

I was able to lift the gray plastic cover up with a plastic knife, and then push the tabs on each side with a flat screwdriver to pull the sensor up. Then, I disconnected it by pushing a blue tab on the windshield side. Visually inspecting my sun load sensor didn't reveal anything exciting - it looked fine.

I am now sure I could handle the replacement myself. Not sure if that is the problem though. Would there be DTC's without the check engine light illuminated?

Found the cabin air filter while under there messing with the fuses. It's the same setup as the Focus. Here's a (ridiculously long winded) video:

 

And here's the filter on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PJDOSS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just followed this - and it worked well. I tried to just skim through and this delayed my work, because I was trying to put the cover on backwards. Returning to the video after I finished, I realize it is worthwhile to watch the whole thing, even if you feel confident. As the man says there is a designer who deserves a "Pain in the Butt" award for the location of this filter. It was physically difficult.

Mine was disgusting, 57K. Think I will change this much earlier.

 

Great vids & info everyone, thanks. It was a breeze to change, < 5 mins.

 

Topic has been pinned  :)

I bought used but don't believe mine was ever changed. Now at 36k the filter was quite black, and leaves and pollen were stuck in there. In my Toyota the filter was never this dirty. My cabin air should be cleaner now. I think every 20k should be about right.

Well, I arrived for my scheduled appointment with dealer #2 and upon arrival was told they would not be able to perform any repairs today. I was told I could drop off the car but that nobody was there today that could handle a repair. This was Capitol Ford and I won't be going back.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement sensor and is this a repair I could handle myself? Are we correct to assume the headlight sensor is the little dome on the center of the dashboard?

Just made an appointment with a different dealer - hopefully the problem will be going on at the time I arrive to drop off the car. If not, I will once again be handing them a picture of it.

Another point about the last dealer service was they noticed the problem and switched the lights to manual off, just deciding not to say anything and hoping I wouldn't notice they did that and return for the repair. I guess their plan worked because I would never trust them with my car again, but will probably hit them up with a bad review somewhere when I get a chance - the experience was as if I unwittingly entered a group of bad actors performing a comedy sketch about auto repair. It was Performance Ford of Charlotte and I will not go back.

That's not how MY 2013 auto headlamps work.  

 

When in auto mode and in normal daytime light (especially in sunshine) the headlamps are off.  If when in auto mode and the headlamps come on like when in a dimly lit tunnel in daytime, the headlamps will not stay on after exiting the tunnel (short time delay after exiting).  The headlamps do not become running lights.

 

mtta, was your car a commercially leased vehicle as IIRC they can be programmed for day time running lights? or maybe someone modified your vehicle for daytime running lights?  The sunlight sensor is on the top of the dash in the center.  Did the dealer scan your car for diagnostic trouble codes as there are many DTCs for the sunlight sensor?

Nope, it was not a commercial vehicle or programmed for DRL. The key here is that the headlights aren't on every day - the problem only happens when it is very sunny. Yesterday they were on all day unless I switched to manual off. Today the setting is still on auto but the lights were (correctly) not on. 

This would be easy to ignore if not for the GPS NAV going to black "night mode" when the headlights are improperly on during sunny conditions. It's hard to read anything then and obviously a problem.

The dealer was a real pain. I took a picture of the problem, printed it and brought it in while I was getting something else fixed. My question to them was "Is there anything you could check?" and the only result of this inquiry was them asking if I had left a hat on the dashboard.

Thanks for the info about the DTCs. Looks like just taking it to a more competent dealer would be better, and I suspect the sensor needs to be replaced. 

Has anyone experienced this problem? My headlights are set to automatic, but about half the time they are on when it is daytime. Specifically, the lights will be on when it is very bright and sunny outside. In overcast conditions I've had normal operations.

I have tried cleaning the windshield and sensor - but I'm wondering if the reflections on the windshield are causing a shadow over the light sensor. The Ford dealer just asked if I left a hat on the dash - there's never anything on my dashboard. 

When headlights are on, the controls and NAV screen are dark for night mode, so this means I need to turn the lights off manually.

Wondering what the fix would be. Replace the sensor on the dash close to the defrost? More complicated? Or would I continue to have problems with a new sensor, in bright sunlight?