ald16

No worries, happy to share. I should add I'm no audiophile so I was more concerned about functionality than sound quality, hence CarPlay for navigation, podcasts, music was all essential. I have not replaced the stock speakers, but that would be another obvious upgrade. Narrowly avoided backing over one of my idiot dogs this morning, so rear camera already proving its worth!

Long post, but maybe helpful if you're thinking about replacing the crap sync radio... Replacing the basic SYNC unit in the C-Max is not that hard, but does require some comfort level with pulling apart dash components and keeping track of all the bits and pieces. Having seen the cost of replacing the APIM module or other things associated with what is just a crap set up to begin with…. Just replace the whole thing, you’ll be glad you did. · What I started with – 2016 basic SYNC system, 4.3 inch screen, radio functions worked but Bluetooth didn’t. · What I have now – JVC KW M750BT 6.8 inch touch screen with carplay etc, rear view camera, engine and car data including doors open, all tire pressure readings, rpm, speed, intake temp, exact fuel level, and a track mode that will record 0-60 and ¼ miles times (because that’s what you bought a C-Max for!). Some suggestions if you want to give it a go: · Plan on spending a fair amount more than just the cost of the radio. My JVC cost $350. The install gear about as much again, but unless you’re really creative/crazy/knowledgeable you’ll have to use it. · I bought everything from Crutchfield and took advantage of their ready-harness offer. $25 and they wire up the two harnesses you need to go between the factory stuff and the new radio. Makes life much easier. · The Crutchfield-recommended Metra dash kit works great. It’s actually for an Escape but the shape is spot on. The harness from the back of the existing radio face will snap right in and keeps the door lock indicator and the hazard switch. The Maestro Rr module is great too. This is necessary to keep steering wheel controls and also to work with the factory external amp. Flashing it is simple once you have access to the right computer hardware. You must use a PC, so being a mac guy using internet explorer was more of a challenge than actually flashing the unit. · The 4.3 inch screen is now merely decorative. The harness that hooks to it will be used on the Maestro and at first it’s a struggle to see how the two can hook up. Fortunately there’s a fair amount of space under the pan that forms the shelf in front of the sync screen and the internal plastic bits above the radio, so it works. Just tape it down so it doesn’t rattle. This connection is crucial, the steering wheel interface won’t work without it. · There’s lots of connections with the Maestro, but it’s all on the wiring diagram and simpler than it looks. All the connections are different shapes so it’s pretty hard to screw up. If you want gauge information you have to connect to the OBD interface, which is in the footwell area on the driver’s side, very accessible. You may not need all the supplied connections on the Maestro, which confused me at first but I guess they sell it for many other applications so perhaps that shouldn’t be a surprise. · If you order from Crutchfield they will warn you that the clock and outside temp will be lost, which is true since the sync screen is now dead. However, if you have an outside temp reading in the driver gauges, which my 2016 does, then that stays active. Your new radio will (presumably) have a clock function, so there’s no problem there either. · Most aftermarket receivers will need an external mic. I ran the cable down to the footwell then up inside the trim on the A pillar. You shouldn’t have to pull it off, you can just push the wires underneath. I hooked the plastic mic mount at the top of the pillar trim, seems fine, stable and clear sound. · You do have to actually cut out plastic parts of the dash, but it’s nothing you can see when you’re finished. It has to be done to make room for the new radio. The plastic is pretty soft and cuts easily, I used a 12 inch hacksaw blade taken out of the saw. Just wear work gloves and vacuum out the debris. It did take quite a bit of time to figure out the best fit of the mounting brackets that came with radio and how that would hold the new radio in the right place. Be patient, you’ll have to use trial and error and test fit a few times to get it right. I did not re-use the two screws that held the original radio in place, the plastic was getting a bit torn up, opting instead for a short stove bolts and nuts, which hold very securely now. · Installing the rear camera is a bit of a pain. You can’t use a license plate mount because the camera housing (usually right in the middle of a bar along the top) will then be in the way of the tailgate release. I used a rubber camera mount in a kit from Boyo (VTK501HD) that includes several mounting options. The rubber mount is adhesive, no drilling needed, and fits perfectly between the tailgate release button and the license plate illuminator lamp. It could be mounted on either side of the release button but that’s not off-center enough to matter. It is also rounded in shape and looks better, more stock, than the boxy metal mounts some of these come with. I ran the wire behind the license plate and then through the existing unused lower license plate screw hole. These are plugged with rubber, just pull that out, cut a small notch with a sharp knife and reinstall with the cable. You’ll have to remove all of the interior trim on the tailgate to then run the cable around following the light and defroster wires and tap in to the reverse light wire. I used the tailgate as a ground by putting a small bolt through an existing hole that would be hidden by trim, scraping the paint off for metal contact. To get back inside the car, I cut small incisions in the large plugs that cover cable holes between the tailgate and main body, then went back with a bit of silicon sealer after the install was done. Once inside the body it gets a little trickier, keep clear of the rear seatbelt retractors. If you pull up the battery/cargo floor cover completely you can run the cable along the bottom of the trim, behind the rear seats, and then push under the door sills/ B pillar trim all the way to the front. · The stock USB connector in the center console will not work any more. Using a pry tool, pop out the panel it sits in, unplug it and leave the old cable there. I ran a new cable from the new radio into that location. I used a panel mount USB socket (lots of options available for this at Crutchfield or amazon), modified the existing panel to fit it and snapped it all back in. Can’t tell it’s not original. · Lastly, get some proper trim panel removal tools, don’t do this with a screwdriver. Cheap kits are available that have a selection of sizes and shapes in different plastic formulations. Also, get a flexible fishing tool. Take your time, do it carefully. I reckon I spent about 8 hours on it over a weekend, but could have saved a couple of hours just knowing some of the things above. Pictures attached, showing what I started with, pulling out the old radio, test fitting the new one, the spiders web of stuff connected to the Maestro box, and the finished article. Best of luck!