BluenoseCmax

I also had a misfire #2 for a few days, which then morphed to a #2 injector open circuit message on the OBD. I also changed the plug and coil first ($70C) on #2 with no joy. This was before the open circuit message that came after the running test of the coil. The injector ($50C) was not as difficult as I thought it would be. After removing all the "stuff" removed for the coil access the injector rail is just forward. removing all of the plugs for the coils and injectors as well as the two bolts on the rail and access was available. The rail on this 6year old Cmax (163000KM) was pretty stuck in place so careful prying and pulling was needed. The injectors themselves are only held in by their o-rings (2 per injector). Make sure you order 2 o-ring kits as there are 8 in total and each kit only had 4ea. If you only remove one injector then you will need two for that one and then 1ea for the bottom of the other 3 injectors. Fuel will trickle out when its removed so rags handy. Also I believe I saw where the battery is recommended to be disconnected, likely to prevent the fuel pump from blasting out under pressure if someone inadvertently hit the start button. One other note is that there are misconceptions around the cylinder numbering from the front (normal) or the transmission. When I asked the Ford dealer actually mentioned that #2 was from the transmission. NOT! at least for OBD messages. I replaced their recommendation only to have to do the real #2 from the front of the engine.

I recently had the P26CE code for coolant pump over-speed. It was erasable but came back within a day or so. I also figured it was the pump as there was no indication of leakage puddling. I then after a while checked the coolant and found that 2L needed to be added!.. so then it was a leak search. I also did see a small indication of leakage under the car one day. Jacking and removing the streamline panel, the leak was at the thermostat housing. $310C later I had the housing kit with new thermostat and o-ring in hand. Not too, too difficult to remove except for the 5 cinch type clamps where access is limited. I found that the upper portion of the housing had two hairline cracks resulting from corrosion expanding in the recess of the housing interface. The corrosion actually spread the housing to the point that it cracked. The salt roads and ocean climate here, along with manufactures not adequately corrosion protecting through simple applications is likely the culprit. Took 6 years for this to happen. See also "Thermostat Replacement Question" in these forums.