I have 3 C-Max's; a 2017 Titanium and 2 ea 2013 SE"s. I have had no issues with the 2017 @40k besides undue tire noise that sounds like bad bearings. The two 2013's have both had the dead battery issue with the entertainment system draining the 12V battery. I have overcome that with the info on this forum about pulling the fuses that reset the module controlling them. One 2013 has 98K on it and I replaced all the wheel bearings due to one bad RFW and noisy operation of the rest. I did the work myself and got the parts thru an online discount parts supplier and everything cost about $300. It is still going strong. The other 2013 has 68K on it and other than taking a logging chain hook thru the transmission/electronics cooler it had no problems until recently had an injector go bad. I had the codes read and it called out cylinder #4 for bad electronics and misfire. My daughter took it to the local dealer and they charged her $91 to tell her it was bad, they reset something and it ran well for another month. It failed again for the same thing so I troubleshot it myself. First, I did resistance tests with a cheap multimeter and it showed injectors 1,2,& 3 having about 17 ohms of resistance and #4 had 550 ohms; not open but obviously way out of tolerance. The fuel injectors are really just small solenoid valves that operate very rapidly. I theorize that #4 would intermittently work and then the electronic controller would sense high resistance and cut it off. I decided to replace all 4 with Motocraft units @$18 ea plus shipping. I am an old school backyard mechanic who has not worked with fuel injection systems before so this will be interesting. I looked at various videos and it doesn't look to tough, more like a hydraulic system. Anyway I will let you know how it goes... BTW, Weber State University has some great videos online about how hybrids of all makes work and the evolution of them. Quite interesting and thourough. Gene