Billyk24
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Posts posted by Billyk24
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On 3/1/2022 at 12:26 PM, Ford4LIfe said:
Thanks. I don't live in a cold temperature area..moderate...been 35 in mornings...61 in afternoons. I'm figuring the total charge of 8 miles is low because the previous owner (a 1 owner car) did not manage battery life or know anything about charging it.
Any idea where to purchase a new battery pack.....lol?
Heat is the issue. Heat comes from just driving in any mode and especially when driving in EV mode, heat comes from charging. heat comes from driving at higher speeds -going up hills or placing excess amps on the battery pack heat comes from regenerating braking, heat comes from just sitting in the sunny parking lot. The Energi has an inept thermal regulatory system and can't cool the battery pack in an adequate manner. The air cooled battery pack works poorly in warmer weather even with the air conditioning at full blast at 60f it can not cool the battery pack. I seen it first hand with my third party hardware that monitors such. Living in a warm part of the country is worse for the battery pack than living where winter exists for four months a year. It is best to use EV driving in slow traffic conditions and in piece meal fashion to preserve the battery pack. The warranty does not cover degradation. Don't expect the dealership's service manager to be up to date on electric vehicles or the Energi unless the personally own one.
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On 2/24/2022 at 7:23 PM, mextreme said:
There is reference for success in upgrading a salvaged modem out of another vehicle.
Has anyone attempted / read about purchasing the new part and installing it yourself?
Does Ford need to program anything to make the new modem work?
I don't mind saving some money labor if possible and dealer is going to pick up labor costs unless Ford approves it.
We have a 2014 Fusion Energi.
Hold on now! Wait until others have had success in pairing the new part with the Ford software. there are multiple users on Facebook that are frustrated and unable to do so. Little or no dealer support in being able to resolve such an issue.
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I don't fill my electic tank up and the guess o meter reads 47 miles to empty. There, don't go by the miles of range as it is does not fully reflect range. Heat is the primary factor for degradation of the battery pack capacity. Driving excessively in EV mode--as in drive until it is empty-will drive the battery temperature up and frequently into unhealthy The battery pack likes to sit at 77f plus or minus 6f. Once the battery pack is too warm like in the 90's, the vehicle is unable to quickly cool itself. Easy to see such when you use third party hardware that monitors battery temperature, amps, SOC and other. It is not wise to fully charge the battery pack and let it sit. Nor is it wise to let the battery pack run down to zero on a regular basis. IT is better to charge in a step fashion in that the car can cool awhile before recharging upward further. Just sitting in the summer sum will heat the battery pack up to unhealthy levels.
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The degradation of the kWh capacity is common for many owners who do not realize what is happening while they drive it. It is highly related to the inept thermal regulatory system that relies upon the cabin air for cooling purposes. Those of us with data monitoring in real time realize how poorly this vehicle can regulate the battery temperature. Hypermiling, excessive charging, just sitting in the warm summer sun all contribute to this loss in kWh capacity.
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On 12/31/2021 at 10:32 AM, Nervous but Excited said:
This morning the salesman took the car for an approximately 11mile drive in 13F temp. And he spent 4.8 kWh doing so (see updated graph below).
This seems to indicate that the battery is in okay condition. Yay ?
Re-look at the data: the drive was 15.5 miles total as shown in the right upper hand corner. Next to that figure is EV 62%. Errr....Driving in EV NOW is suppose to be 100% EV. The fuel mpg should be ....well if it is all electric then why does it say 71.9 mpg? Sooo....was the test done in EV NOW? EV AUTO? Was it done in EV AUTO for 15.5 miles with regenerative braking adding a bit of charge and capacity to the battery pack during the 15 miles. with the real capacity less than that?
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On 12/28/2021 at 11:42 PM, Nervous but Excited said:
Hi again @Billyk24,
The car that I want to buy is far away, so I asked the dealer to run these tests. The dealer replied with this note: "After a full charge, and driving till it drained, it showed 8.4kPh"
I am assuming that he meant to say kWh and not kPh (although "W" and "P" are far apart on the keyboard).
Aside from that I am really confused about how he would have achieved 8.4kWh... Is it possible to achieve an additional 2.8kWh from regenerative breaking?Unfortunately he wasn't sure how many miles he drove on the trip... He estimated 11 miles, but seemed far from sure (this was on a very cold day - about 20F).
Any insights?
IT is called BS selling. You, not them, must do the test. It must be done in EV NOW which is different from EV AUTO or EV LATER. Go back can demand to drive the vehicle and perform the test yourself. If they refuse, Walk away. A RAV4 hybrid-more easily found on dealer lots and the other car I owe-may provide almost as good as MPG without playing games trying to keep the battery cool.
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You must perform the battery capacity test on the Energi to find out how much the battery has degraded. Yes, heat degrades the battery and the battery heats to unhealthy levels just sitting in the summer sun. The Energi does not have an adequate thermal regulatory system to manage safe battery temperature during the warmer months of the year. A search will reveal on how to perform this simple battery capacity test that has to be done in EV now.
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The battery capacity test is what you are referring to the second post.
1. Charge to full
2. switch to EV NOW--this is the middle switch between EV Auto and EV Later and prevents ICE from starting in 99% of cases
3. Drive until the ICE kicks on-you can drive up a mountain, drive 60 miles per hour, etc as we are looking for #4
4. When the ICE kicks look at the dash to find the kWh consumed. At new, 5.6KWh is considered the "usable" amount for a new battery pack. You are testing for the usable amount of the battery pack.
All automakers provide a "walled off" top and bottom portion of their battery pack in an attempt to enhance longevity. Some provide a minimum buffer such as Tesla which explains why they frequent refer to owners should only charge up to 80% of capacity on a regular basis.
Miles per range is really meaningless as MG2 contributes to range. Heck, my Energi reports 47 miles to empty and I do not fully charge my battery pack.
Heat is the biggest degrader of battery pack capacity. Heat comes from excessive EV usage, excessive EV charging, continuous high speed, high amp loads being placed upon the battery pack, normal summer temperatures, just sitting in the summer sun with the car off can raise the battery temperature to unhealthy levels. You need to monitor the battery pack temperature, amps used, state of charge via third party hardware or FordScan software in an attempt to minimize issues.
The Energi does not have an adequate thermal regulatory system to keep the battery pack cells at a safe temperature during the warm summer months. Do drive the car with the engine ON during the warm summer months in an attempt to minimize heat buildup and unhealthy battery temperatures.
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There's also no way to really check battery capacity with them either.--not an accurate statement. The Professor (Raj) of the Energi version always stated the capacity can be checked by filling the HVB up, driving in EV now mode only and when it "runs out", you stop and check for the kWh capacity used. Energi models owned in the warm states, those driven by owners bragging about high mpg are likely to have a significantly degraded capacity due to the Energi's inept thermal regulatory system. Of course, this does not apply to just the Hybrid version.
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On 11/11/2021 at 6:03 AM, Billyk24 said:
I have two scanguages in my CMax and it reads the state of charge every day. Can't remember if I just moved my scanguage' from my Escape Hybrid to the CMax without changing anything.
Try the Escape Hybrid coding.
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On 11/10/2021 at 7:40 PM, Maxhybrid said:
I saw that but O codes for a Cmax especially for SOC.☹
I have two scanguages in my CMax and it reads the state of charge every day. Can't remember if I just moved my scanguage' from my Escape Hybrid to the CMax without changing anything.
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Could be the car was "off-the 12V battery" for some time and is starting from ground zero. It has no memory of your previous mpg and driving. Since the vehicle was in the shop for nearly a month and a half, the weather has changed also contributing to what you are asking. Furthermore, it you have a code reader, what exactly were the codes? That can tell a lot.
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On 11/4/2021 at 8:30 PM, Lacienega said:
Thanks. I know in the manual it says you can use the 5w20 blend if 0w20 isn't available. But I'd rather use the 0w20 full syn from Mobil 1. My oil fill cap also says 0w20.
I was just wondering if Ford also switched to full syn oil as recommended oil since they took the 0w20 Blend off their website.
Drove my old Escape Hybrid to just short of 200,000 miles running on 0W-20 Mobil 1 when the manual stated 5W-20. Have OW-20 in my CMax.
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The CMax Energi has an inept thermal regulatory system. It can not control the battery temperature during warm weather. The battery's optimum temperature is 76f which gives a healthy range of 69-83f. It is very difficult if not impossible to decrease the battery temperature while driving in warm summer weather even with the air conditioner at full blast. I monitor such in real time with third party hardware. The battery temperature will heat up just sitting in the warm sun, so find shade to park in. The Energi has a battery kWh capacity of 5.6 when new. Many owners degrade their battery towards 4.0 and below without even knowing it. Charging up the battery will also heat it up more so on the 240V electrical system where around 9.6 amps is used for charging. Ex
cessive driving in electric mode will also heat up the battery especially in EV now. The 120V system uses around 3.5 amp for charging and may be safer during warmer weather. Do the battery capacity test to find out what kWh capacity your vehicle currently has.
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On 9/28/2021 at 9:43 AM, ptjones said:
With the temp changes I can see my range dropping by about 2 miles to around 47 mi. from 49 mi. I must have gotten good mileage last night when I got home because this morning the range was 57 miles with full charge, when I got to work 7 mi. it had dropped to 45 mi. a 12 mi. drop. About an hour later I checked and range had dropped to 40 miles. This is interesting because I usually have 39 mi. range when I go to lunch. Going home from work I usually gain 2-3 mi. of range. By the time when temps get down to freezing I should have a pretty good idea on how many miles I lose for each 10*F drop in temperature.
I have a ScanGaugeII which shows actual % of charge which goes between 17% to 91%.
Paul17-91% range? The CMAX Energi has a range of 15-98%.
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On 9/29/2021 at 4:34 PM, fxo said:
I recently bought the 2016 Energi and I am pretty sure from a rather complete carfax report that the CVT has never had a fluid replacement. Is this wise even though the manual says 150K miles for a fluid replacement?
What are thoughts on that, change CVT fluid, or wait the vehicle has 94,000 miles on it today. Single owner, basic local commuter from what I could tell. It is my understanding CVT's run quite hot, and am thinking CVT fluid replacement is relatively cheap compared to a CVT replacement of x thousands.Do you know the Energi has an electronic CVT-no belts, no gears. Can't run without the big battery being on.
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On 9/28/2021 at 1:11 PM, cr08 said:
I'm curious with the new liquid cooled batteries what kind of temp ranges it tries to maintain now. Do we know if it is also heated or just cooled?
The CMax Energi's owner's manual refers to 76f as optimum. Of course the vehicle has an inept thermal management system in which owners can not manage the battery temperature adequately during warm weather. I have read the new VW ID4 states 77f as optimum.
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On 9/24/2021 at 12:10 PM, ptjones said:
Installed Grill Cover and I didn't notice any obvious change in range yet, I'm thinking that temps are affecting the range with yesterday's temps were atleast 10 degrees cooler. I don't have enough experience with plugins concerning the effects of temps vs range. My garage temp was around 75*F with outside 47*F, probably 20*F cooler than a couple of days ago. I think I will install lower cover now also. Energi users what has been your experience with temp drop on range?
Paul
As the temperature drops, your range drops. It improves as the battery warms up (76f is optimum in the Energi) which is a major issue as the CMax Energi has an inept thermal regulatory system. For example, this am it was between 47-49f (before 8am) driving the 19 miles to the state park for a swimming workout in the 'warm" lake. The battery pack was 65f at start, with 4 windows down and driving on the state highway at 55f, I dropped the internal cabin temperature from 66 to 62f and it just stayed there for 15 minutes. I then gave up and closed all four windows only to watch the battery temperature rise all 1f while the cabin increased to 64. It is very difficult to regulate the battery temperature of the CMax Energi in an attempt to optimize efficiency and minimize excess heat and related degradation.
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On 9/11/2021 at 5:33 PM, ptjones said:
On page 209 in the OM it says: "Why does my vehicle have hum or fan noise when charging?" "A hum or a fan noise could be present when charging the high voltage battery. This is normal operation as your vehicle is keeping the battery cool while charging." This is a good thing to help the HVB last longer. I usually wait a hour or two before charging when at home.
Paul
Which indicates a charger fan turns on during charging as does the CMax Energi does. However, in the CMAX Energi one can sometimes have the HVB fans also run while charging in an attempt to provide cooling to the HVB. Not sure if coolant circulates thru the HVB of the Escape PHEV while charging level 2 or 1. The state of the art Ford Mach E will force the coolant thru the HVB while DCFC but I am unsure about level 2 charging.
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On 9/9/2021 at 11:41 AM, ptjones said:
I got the impression that high temps caused from charging the HVB and believe owners were using Level 2 chargers which heat up the HVB more. Here's what I'm doing.
1. Let HVB cool off for a couple of hours before start charging. Most of my charging has been at night when it's cooler.
2. I believe the HVB is being cooled when charging.
3. I didn't use EV on my long trip and in EV later it only uses 2% of the HVB.
4. Once I put the Grill Cover on I will use EV to control temps if I need too on long trips.
Paul
This brings up the question, does the HVB circulate coolant while charging? In the CMax Energi, one can force the HVB to run while charging if the HVB fan is on and the charging cord is plugged into the vehicle while it is running. Thanks to Raj for this information. So, do you need to plug in the charger cord while the vehicle is still running and then turn off the vehicle to force the HVB coolant to continue to run while charging?
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On 9/1/2021 at 5:38 PM, TomM said:given all the challenges that Chevy Bolts have been having with their battery packs (https://www.yahoo.com/autos/gm-wont-repair-recalled-chevy-123900179.html), are there any steps that Ford is recommending for their plug-in hybrids/pure EV cars with regards to charging or other?I recently purchased a used 2015 C-Max Energi Plug-inThank you.
Recent purchase of an used 2015 CMax Energi/ Then you need to do the hvb capacity as soon as possible to determine how degraded the hvb is.
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Another thing about coasting it allows your HVB to cool down some when you don't use it.----MG2 is working when coasting and thus battery activity is on-going. You can see this on the dash and in the scanguage II hardware as the SOC rises. The temperature in the CMax will rise with repeated use. Since I don;t have the Escape, I couldn't tell.
Shifting into "N" would shut off MG2 while coasting.
Energi battery loss- when does it become a problem for you?
in General Discussion
Posted
Interesting but...do they have the ability to read Ford Software to ensure all is working correctly? How much experience do these installers have doing battery replacements.