67gtcougar

My AC problem (compressor not operating while car was not in motion) was resolved after a second trip to the service department. The tech discovered that the AC fan connector wasn't snapped in all the way. It works great now. It was probably disconnected when the transmission was replaced. I can definitely hear the fan running whenever the AC is on now.

I figured the service tech would have thought to check the codes. He did say that the compressor was very noisy though, and it would cost $2,800 (including the diagnostic fee) to replace it. He added that it wouldn't fix the problem. Thanks.

I have the same issue on my 2013 Energi. The compressor rarely operates when the car is stopped, but when the car is in motion it works great, even in Phoenix. I took it to the dealer, but the tech had no idea what was causing it, but did charge me $350 for his time. When I start the car and turn on the A/C, the compressor runs for about 1 minute, before shutting off, then will run for about 10 seconds every 2 minutes afterwards, but blows warm air. If I then drive the car, the A/C works fine, until I stop for any reason. I replaced the evaporator temp sensor, and the cabin air filter. I rarely use the A/C, so I'm not sure when this problem started. I mentioned to the Ford service representative that I didn't think the condenser fan was coming on when I dropped off the car, but not sure if needed to, especially since it wasn't that warm out at the time I checked it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Glad you figured it out. I haven't been on this forum since I repaired the seat release.

I decided to repair the cable with bicycle parts. The cable housing was badly damaged, so I bought a piece the same size from a bicycle shop. I also bought a shifter cable and a cable ferrule to attach the old Z-end to the new cable. After assembly, I made sure that cable and housing wasn't being pinched when the seat back was laid down, which caused the original cable to break. I tried to find a cable with the same size barrel end (5x8 mm), by settled on the shifter cable with a different end. Be careful when when reaching under the seat, there are a few sharp edges that can cut your fingers.

The lever quit working on the right side of our 2013 Energi last week. I was hoping it would be an easy repair. I will pull the seat soon and see if I can't repair it myself. Update: I dismantled the lower part of the seat today, and found the problem. By the way, you need to remove the 2 bolts in the front of the seat with an 18mm socket then lift up the bottom of the seat, and remove some of the trim to get at the bolts holding the actuator. The actuator cable was broken right where the sheathing was pinched. The sheathing splits into 2 pieces, so I was able to take it apart and use vise grips to pull the cable to lower the seat back. I found the part on the FordUS website for $134.69, and I will call my local Ford dealer tomorrow to check their price. I guess a cheaper fix would be to substitute bicycle brake cables and sheathing, or just reattach the vise grips to the broken end of the cable. Actuator Part #: 96613A68 Ford Parts Logo (Fix or Repair Daily ? ) Usage: 07/23/2012 - 04/26/2018, C-MAX Energi 2014-2018 (CCG) Section: Rear Seat Base Most parts available next business day. Your Price: $134.69 MSRP: $134.69

I also replaced the right axle, and the toughest part was refilling the tranny. Good to know.

They use Mercon LV in the transmission. Probably QLVC is the transmission fluid, which isn't listed on my invoice. The transmission isn't actually sealed. If you pull either axle shaft, the fluid will leak out.

Picked up our CMAX Energi yesterday from our local Ford dealer service department after the repair. They had it for about 8 days. The eCVT failed with 63K, and mostly electric miles. The build date was 12/22/2012. They reported that the differential and transfer shaft bearings were pitted, and performed TSB 18-2328 to replace HF35 transmission assembly. Several parts were included in the invoice including brake cleaner, sealant, and anti-freeze, but ATF wasn't listed. I hope they didn't put the old stuff back in.

I know how to disable the dome lights, but I haven't been able to disable the exterior lights.

We went car camping over the weekend. Opening and closing the hatch and doors several times really took its toll on the voltage. It was down to 11.7 volts the first night, so I turned the car on to give it a short charge. I kept about 5 miles range on the lithium battery, so I didn't have to start the ICE. Too bad Ford doesn't let us disable the lights, especially with the small 12 volt battery. Since the trip to the dealer I haven't seen voltages higher than about 12.5, and usually they are closer to 12.2 after the car has sat for awhile.

The just found this thread this morning. ...Interesting information. Until I had a dead battery this weekend I didn't pay much attention to this problem. Now I'm logging the voltages and trying to see what caused the problem. Our car never sits more than overnight, and if I measure the voltage in the evening, it hasn't dropped more than .3 volts by morning. The car is going to the dealer this morning, and I'll make sure to tell them about the TSB. I noticed the evening before my battery problem that the level 2 charger was still running after 5 hours, so I shut it down. Perhaps a stuck relay? I wish I had measured the voltage then. A bit ironic that leaving the charger running possibly caused my battery to drain. I couldn't honestly answer the poll, since I'm reading different voltages almost every time I check. I have seen 12.2 - 13.1 volts. Before charging I usually see 12.2 - 12.6 though. ...Car is back from the dealer. They load tested the battery, and updated the firmware to keep some module from draining the battery when the car is parked. When my wife drove it home (about 3 miles) and plugged it in, it wouldn't charge until she turned on the ignition.

I also saw the voltage start out at over 14 volts and then read somewhere over 13 when I arrived with the car still running.

Thanks. That looks almost perfect. I just ordered a bunch of stuff on Amazon yesterday. Could have got free shipping. My wife had already put the car on the charger before I had a chance to get the initial reading after her last drive. I turned off the charger and it read 11.9 with the door open and 12.2 with it closed. When I plugged it back in it started charging the 12 volt battery. I drove the car 3.5 miles one-way, and the voltage was over 13 every time I checked while it was running. It would be nice to record it real-time to get a trend.

Thanks for the update. Now I wonder if I'm wasting my time taking it to the dealer. I will also try your test. Could you check the voltage before and after your trip? Also please note if the battery cooling fans are operating. If there is a load on the battery it will definitely dip down a few tenths of a volt. I might try to purchasing a cheap car voltmeter that plugs in to the 12 volt socket to monitor the battery voltage all the time.